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Crosspostin from the 40k thread. Had this model over a year and finally got around to painting it. 
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Mar 27, 2015 21:03
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Anyone have tips for someone looking to cast their own stuff? The company I work for does polyurethane casting, so I know a bit about [how hard] mold design [is], but I don't know anything about using RTV or doing resin casting. Can anyone point me in the right direction on products available in the US?
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Mar 28, 2015 16:32
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Under 15 posted:Anyone have tips for someone looking to cast their own stuff? The company I work for does polyurethane casting, so I know a bit about [how hard] mold design [is], but I don't know anything about using RTV or doing resin casting. Can anyone point me in the right direction on products available in the US? Give fellow goon Germs a ring. He does a lot of casting and runs his own little terrain-casting business, and he'd be the best guy here to give you some directions on where to start. I've done my own share of casting, primarily with bases. For me, I used Smooth-On, which has a plethora of plastic and resin products to cast with. A simple beginners kit, which uses their Oomoo silicon and their 300 fast-curing white plastic, will run you about $50 and does a pretty reasonable job of doing single mold casting (again, like for bases). If you're looking to do 2-part molds it gets trickier though.
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Mar 28, 2015 18:55
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Is there any One Weird Trick to two brush blending on larger surfaces? I'm trying to learn to hand blend stuff instead of easymoding with the airbrush all the time. It's pretty easy on small areas but larger ones come out blotchy.
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Mar 28, 2015 18:58
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Yeah, my main motivation is recasting shields for my orcs, so it'll be open casting all the way. There's no way I could ever scrape up 100+ of the old 90's shields for my dudes.
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Mar 28, 2015 19:00
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So I was reading around about flow aids/improvers, and on the Reaper forums someone suggested adding a drop or two of dish soap to your rinse water (I think the formula is something like a drop or two per ounce of water), to break the water's surface tension, and make paint/inks/washes/etc. flow more smoothly off the brush when you mix in however many drops of rinse water to thin paints out. I figured "what the heck" and gave it a shot, investing the princely sum of $1 for a small bottle of Gain dish soap, and proceeded to add a couple of drops to my cup of rinse water. It definitely falls into the "I can't believe I didn't do this sooner" category, as it worked like a charm. Not only did the paints flow much more smoothly off the brush, but making washes with inks was much better too, as the wash flowed nicely into the crevices. Even the Secret Weapon washes, which I have always had problems with (for whatever reason I always seem to get "tide marks" with them, as opposed to using the Army Painter inks) worked wonderfully after mixing a drop of the dish soap & water flow improver with a drop of whatever SW wash on my palette. Just figured I would mention it and see if anyone else has tried it before.  Also in the same Reaper thread, I think the second post was a hurriedly-dashed-out disclaimer from a Reaper employee...who said that they couldn't officially endorse any "add this to your painting techniques/mixtures" threads, and cited the case of a Reaper customer that ruined their $600 collection of Reaper paints by adding Future Floor Polish to every bottle of the paint that they owned. Instead of, you know, just having a bottle off to the side to mix in as needed on the palette. 
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Mar 28, 2015 19:43
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Companies should not have to cover their rear end against insane idiots.
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Mar 28, 2015 19:52
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JoshTheStampede posted:Is there any One Weird Trick to two brush blending on larger surfaces? I'm trying to learn to hand blend stuff instead of easymoding with the airbrush all the time. It's pretty easy on small areas but larger ones come out blotchy. I mostly 2 brush/ spit/ feather on medium sized surfaces. For large surfaces I wet blend then refine with glazes. For smaller surfaces I layer then glaze.
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Mar 28, 2015 20:10
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osirisisdead posted:Companies should not have to cover their rear end against insane idiots. But frivolous lawsuits brought against companies by people who can't comprehend instructions or directions is what helped shape this great land of ours! 
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Mar 28, 2015 20:45
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Sydney Bottocks posted:So I was reading around about flow aids/improvers, and on the Reaper forums someone suggested adding a drop or two of dish soap to your rinse water (I think the formula is something like a drop or two per ounce of water), to break the water's surface tension, and make paint/inks/washes/etc. flow more smoothly off the brush when you mix in however many drops of rinse water to thin paints out. I figured "what the heck" and gave it a shot, investing the princely sum of $1 for a small bottle of Gain dish soap, and proceeded to add a couple of drops to my cup of rinse water. If you are using real animal brushes, be careful with this. Dish soap is really good at yanking out oils which might leave your really expensive brushes brittle if you use too much soap. But one or two drops shouldn't hurt. Experience: oil/water/acrylic painting classes in school. Dedicated brush soap is much more milder than the GIT-R-DONE harshness of concentrated dish soap. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Mar 28, 2015 |
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Mar 28, 2015 20:54
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EVIR Gibson posted:If you are using real animal brushes, be careful with this. Dish soap is really good at yanking out oils which might leave your really expensive brushes brittle if you use too much soap. I use synthetic brushes so it's not an issue for me, and I definitely agree that you shouldn't use dish soap to clean natural hair brushes. But yeah, a drop or two in a two-ounce rinse water cup should be OK. If you get a ton of soap bubbles in your rinse water, you know you've added too much. 
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Mar 28, 2015 21:01
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I use synthetic brushes so it's not an issue for me, and I definitely agree that you shouldn't use dish soap to clean natural hair brushes. But yeah, a drop or two in a two-ounce rinse water cup should be OK. If you get a ton of soap bubbles in your rinse water, you know you've added too much. One weird tip - Pre-mix flow aid and clean water in a dropper bottle and use that to dilute your paints. Don't thin your paints with rinse water! Some paints, particularly metallics will contaminate other colours really easily.
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Mar 28, 2015 21:29
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Painted the first miniature I've done in well over ten years, maybe fifteen. My green wash turned out very badly, and I used metallic paint which apparently is not the best idea, so I could use some feedback. Thanks in advance for any advice! 
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Mar 28, 2015 22:56
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Is it okay to talk about casting in the thread or not, because I've been trying to downsize some specific models and am having no success getting anywhere with it.
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Mar 28, 2015 23:06
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Z the IVth posted:One weird tip - Pre-mix flow aid and clean water in a dropper bottle and use that to dilute your paints. Don't thin your paints with rinse water! Some paints, particularly metallics will contaminate other colours really easily. This happened to a bones orc I painted, he had glitter everywhere 
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Mar 28, 2015 23:41
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TKIY posted:Painted the first miniature I've done in well over ten years, maybe fifteen. Metallic paint is fine to use - non-metallic metal techniques aren't for everyone, and by that I mean not everyone even likes how it looks, much less wants to deal with learning how to do it. Its just that metallic paints are a slightly different skillset if you want to do more than base it boltgun and wash it black. What you've done on the gun looks good as it is, if you didn't want to do any more, and the lenses on the scope are quite good. If you wanted to do like one more step, just take your original metal color and hit the top edges of the surfaces, where light would glint off. If you do that and it doesnt seem to have done anything, do it again with a brighter silver.
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Mar 29, 2015 00:06
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Z the IVth posted:One weird tip - Pre-mix flow aid and clean water in a dropper bottle and use that to dilute your paints. Don't thin your paints with rinse water! Some paints, particularly metallics will contaminate other colours really easily. This is also a helpful hint. And always change your rinse water after painting metallics, folks!(though I have used rinse water that looked like it came straight out of a sewer  after heavy usage to thin lighter shades of paint, and discoloration from the rinse water has never been an issue. Perhaps I've just been lucky so far )
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Mar 29, 2015 00:29
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JoshTheStampede posted:Metallic paint is fine to use - non-metallic metal techniques aren't for everyone, and by that I mean not everyone even likes how it looks, much less wants to deal with learning how to do it. Its just that metallic paints are a slightly different skillset if you want to do more than base it boltgun and wash it black. Thank you for the kind words. Getting back to this has been an adventure. I've always been a player but never really a painter. A black wash really brought down the shininess on the gunmetal stuff. Next time I'll do dark grey/black wash/lighter grey highlights. Edge highlighting scares the hell out of me though, I do not have good eyesight or steady hands.
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Mar 29, 2015 00:38
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You need neither, really. You just need to use the edge of the brush rather than the point and hit it at such an angle that the surface does the work. If you try to paint with the point along the edge it'll never look straight and sharp.
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Mar 29, 2015 01:05
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I'm gonna be a gently caress head and go back to rimming and say that pure white or black for rims is bad. They are too stark and distract. Use a really dark grey or a light grey or blue I'd you have to.
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Mar 29, 2015 01:09
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Big Willy Style posted:I'm gonna be a gently caress head and go back to rimming and say that pure white or black for rims is bad. They are too stark and distract. Use a really dark grey or a light grey or blue I'd you have to. This is heresy. Black rim supremacy.
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Mar 29, 2015 01:40
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X-Post from 40k thread - finished my second Hornet, mostly. Still gotta put some roses on both of them and then matte spray those shiny bastards. Also, can you tell which model has, by far, the oldest paint job (it was painted about 9 years ago)?   
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Mar 29, 2015 02:18
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JoshTheStampede posted:This is heresy. Black rim supremacy. My dark angels and vostroyans are black rimmed so maybe black rims are heresy. This is a recent opinion I have formed after reading some colour choice articles when stoned E: boon your army us sick but please reposition your wraithknight so it isn't leaning back
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Mar 29, 2015 02:44
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Cross-posting: I painted a model for my Dark Heresy character. He's supposed to have a chainsword but I like the Kasrkin stuff so much I didn't want to cut it up. Note the black rim.     
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Mar 29, 2015 04:48
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Boon and Sulecrist, your poo poo is loving tight. Edit: gently caress...
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Mar 29, 2015 04:57
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How do I figure out what color (and brand?) of paint I should be getting to do some real basic work as I try to learn how to paint? I'll be learning on a bunch of epic minis, meaning I'm not too fussed about too many highlights or details (the minis are small enough I suppose getting even a little of that going will be plenty, and at least at first I want to get a bunch of the basics done to practice how this works. I can simple green to redo if I want to improve quality). If it goes well I may pick up a squad of regular tactical marines and think about getting into real 40K instead of just buying epic stuff off ebay for cheap. I think I'll start with Ultramarines because the army I bought already has a bunch of stuff done in their colors (and some in Imperial Fists, but I hear yellow is hard to learn on?). So that means I need: stuff for blue (armor), stuff for grey/silver (guns), stuff for white (shoulder pads/highlights), stuff for black (seems useful), maaaybe stuff for red? (assault marine jets? poo poo man I don't know) So, Blue, Silver, White, Black, (Red,) plus Primer. I'm planning on going to two places tomorrow: Michaels (for brushes, pallette, brush soap, hobby snips, x-acto), and my FLGS. Will Michaels carry the right kind of paint, and if they do, what colors should I get? I am sure the FLGS will be happy to tell me what colors of Citadel paint I need for Space Marines, but if I can keep it to one trip that'd be nice. Based on the OP, I understand that I should be watching for hobby (not craft) acrylics, ideally in the: Citadel, P3, or Vallejo lines. (But Vallejo is more for airbrushing, so not them?) Games Workshop seems to recommend getting 6 colors of blue to do Ultramarines properly, which seems like way more than I need right now. Can I get away with one of each of my basic colors for the moment, or do I really need 2-4 varieties of each color?
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Mar 29, 2015 05:28
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Arcturas posted:How do I figure out what color (and brand?) of paint I should be getting to do some real basic work as I try to learn how to paint? I'll be learning on a bunch of epic minis, meaning I'm not too fussed about too many highlights or details (the minis are small enough I suppose getting even a little of that going will be plenty, and at least at first I want to get a bunch of the basics done to practice how this works. I can simple green to redo if I want to improve quality). If it goes well I may pick up a squad of regular tactical marines and think about getting into real 40K instead of just buying epic stuff off ebay for cheap. You need more than one color of blue to paint properly but that doesn't mean you need to BUY more than one blue. You can easily add a touch of white to blue to make a highlight blue or a touch of black or purple to make a shade, etc. Over time that will cause all your blues to look the same but to start out you don't care. Add reaper to the list of potential paint companies. They make "triads" of colors that make it easy to pick out base-shade-highlight, but if you are just looking to buy a super duper starter set that is probably too much. Also, Vallejo Air is intended for airbrushing. Vallejo Model Color and Vallejo Game color are intended for brush work, and are also fine starter paints. Michaels doesn't carry any of the hobby paint brands (except maybe like testors enamels for model cars but you don't want those)
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Mar 29, 2015 05:42
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JoshTheStampede posted:You need more than one color of blue to paint properly but that doesn't mean you need to BUY more than one blue. You can easily add a touch of white to blue to make a highlight blue or a touch of black or purple to make a shade, etc. Over time that will cause all your blues to look the same but to start out you don't care. Thanks! I guess I will need to go by FLGS then.
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Mar 29, 2015 06:03
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Under 15 posted:Anyone have tips for someone looking to cast their own stuff? The company I work for does polyurethane casting, so I know a bit about [how hard] mold design [is], but I don't know anything about using RTV or doing resin casting. Can anyone point me in the right direction on products available in the US? I also use smooth on for casting OOP or quality of life improving bits. It's definitely with a learning curve and messy. If you plan to do it seriously consider a vibrating table or cheap vacuuming chamber to help with bubbles. Also 2 part molds take a lot more work than 1 part/glove molds.
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Mar 29, 2015 09:00
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BULBASAUR posted:I also use smooth on for casting OOP or quality of life improving bits. It's definitely with a learning curve and messy. If you plan to do it seriously consider a vibrating table or cheap vacuuming chamber to help with bubbles. Also 2 part molds take a lot more work than 1 part/glove molds. Also gloves. Either disposable nitrile/latex ones or semi-disposable washing up gloves. I am terrible with health and safety while modelling (no respirator) but I will not touch my casting poo poo without a pair of gloves. The part B of the smooth-on is an extreme irritant. If you get even a trace on your skin you will break out in a rash. Sydney Bottocks posted:This is also a helpful hint. I moved to using the dropper to dilute partly because it was easier than having to break out the flow aid every time. The main contaminant I noticed from when I did use rinse water to dilute was metallics. Other colours not so much. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 11:58
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Hollismason posted:Is it okay to talk about casting in the thread or not, because I've been trying to downsize some specific models and am having no success getting anywhere with it. Casting is ok, recasting, not so much. What do you mean "downsize?" As in reduce the scale? Big Willy Style posted:E: boon your army us sick but please reposition your wraithknight so it isn't leaning back  (It really is a great paint job.) berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 14:09
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Z the IVth posted:Also gloves. Either disposable nitrile/latex ones or semi-disposable washing up gloves. I am terrible with health and safety while modelling (no respirator) but I will not touch my casting poo poo without a pair of gloves. To expand on the importance of gloves. If you're casting with resin, it's a chemical reaction that causes heat. It's never burnt me in all the time I've used it but resin that sets on fingers will hamper your ability to hold anything. It also requires a knife and very delicate efforts in removing. In short, gloves are important throughout the process.
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Mar 29, 2015 16:20
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Sorry for all of the image spam lately but there were some very kind requests for more army pics and I took a bunch of glamor shots for The Flying Monkeys blog so here's a gigantic dump.           EDIT: did some cropping and magic wand color stuff Sulecrist fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 17:55
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RE: Casting chat: Today I'm going to attempt a crazy method for making cheap molds. Gonna use pure caulking silicone and thin it with either xylene or mineral spirits and use my moms Foodsaver to degass (don't think it'll work but worth a shot). I still need some casting resin but one thing at a time. I'll you guys know how it turns out EDIT - Wait mineral spirits melts plastic, doesn't it? Crap nevermind Super Waffle fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 18:11
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Super Waffle posted:Today I'm going to attempt a crazy method for making cheap molds. Gonna use pure caulking silicone and thin it with either xylene or mineral spirits and use my moms Foodsaver to degass (don't think it'll work but worth a shot). I still need some casting resin but one thing at a time. I'll you guys know how it turns out You might want to check out this guy's thread, from Tactical Command. He does a lot of experiments with odd casting methods.
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Mar 29, 2015 19:00
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Super Waffle posted:RE: Casting chat: This might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOYotmflDzE
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Mar 29, 2015 19:11
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I've made plaster cast rocks using a rubber mold, they work great! Plaster is pretty fragile, though, so I suggest very thick primer coats to prevent it from chipping, maybe start with a gloss coat then go to matte later.Sulecrist posted:Cross-posting: I painted a model for my Dark Heresy character. He's supposed to have a chainsword but I like the Kasrkin stuff so much I didn't want to cut it up. Holy poo poo, that is the wave. Edit: There's nothing to critique, it's wonderful. The highlights are subtle but still visible, crisp contrasts, clean layers. It's great being able to lavish detail onto a mini instead of slogging through thirty of them. Now, I miss my Kasrkin models. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 19:16
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Big Ink posted:To expand on the importance of gloves. If you're casting with resin, it's a chemical reaction that causes heat. It's never burnt me in all the time I've used it but resin that sets on fingers will hamper your ability to hold anything. It also requires a knife and very delicate efforts in removing. In short, gloves are important throughout the process. I used some Alec Tiranti resin that would get so hot that it would boil any moisture present in it. If I left the unmixed stuff out in the open for any period of time trying to cast with it would just leave me with a bubbly mess. The smooth-on stuff just gets slightly warm.
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Mar 29, 2015 19:17
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Hollismason posted:Is it okay to talk about casting in the thread or not, because I've been trying to downsize some specific models and am having no success getting anywhere with it. How'd ya get that title?
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Mar 29, 2015 22:10
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| # ? May 8, 2024 10:41 |
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I'm painting some figures from the World of Warcraft board game to practice on figures I don't care about. I've watched a bunch of the Painting Clinic videos and I'm essentially following Faust's skin layering tutorial on some ogres. It's painful because there really isn't a lot of detail on these minis. But I'm going to do a few like his tutorial so I can practice layering (have only painted a handful of minis so far, ever). Once I burn out... is there a fast(er) way to paint low detail board game minis? I'm guessing base color, wash, touchup with base color, highlight color. Does a wash work on something like an ogre's belly that is rounded and doesn't have definition (muscles)?
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Mar 29, 2015 23:28
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