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Dane posted:We're not talking about mid century Danish design classics I would make sure, some of that stuff sells for silly money. Otherwise tear it up. edit: jig is working with better spacers. 
wormil fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 16:21
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wormil posted:I would make sure, some of that stuff sells for silly money. Otherwise tear it up. He's not kidding. I just got several pieces of Danish Modern from my Grandmother and the dining set alone is worth about two grand. You might consider refinishing and re-selling it and using the profits to buy more wood.
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Mar 28, 2015 04:56
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Sometimes I get a little paranoid with my marking
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Mar 28, 2015 05:03
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Friends of ours are moving to Belgium and I probably won't see them nearly as often as I would like. I was hoping to do something for their 1st anniversary, but I had to get something done earlier. They went to the same university as my wife and I, and their wedding invite had a really cool stylized version of the clocktower that the campus is known for. It looked something like this: While the glue was setting on the drawers for the large dresser I'm making, I threw together some rock maple and cherry scrap with some walnut and cherry inlay. First time doing inlay and I did pretty much everything by hand with a 1/4' and 1" chisel, so there's a little bit of gapping, but whatever. Threw some mineral oil + beeswax on it as an initial coat, and going to send it to our friends with a $5 bill and a note that says, "FEED ME MORE OIL" so it gets there in time.  Anyone that hasn't played around with inlay should do so. This was more fun than it should have been. Gonna dutchboy the poo poo out of my desk when I finally get around to it.
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Mar 28, 2015 18:39
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Thank god for my sawdust drawer, tried some stain/varnish combo and I was using my table saw to paint it and goddamnit if I didn't spill the thing, fortunately it was a flask design instead of a jar, still a goodly amount spilled over my saw and the wooden parts on my sliding table. Thanks to a pretty full sawdust drawer I had lots to soak up and clean the saw with, but all the wooden parts are splotchy and stained now.
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Mar 28, 2015 20:56
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I'm building a small terrarium for some carnivorous plants out of some cheap pine, which is probably a bad idea, but I was wondering what the best kind of finish I should use to protect from a constant humidity? I'm looking for something clear and flat. I usually just use some paste wax, but I don't think that would be good here.
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Mar 29, 2015 13:55
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Zyklon B Zombie posted:I'm building a small terrarium for some carnivorous plants out of some cheap pine, which is probably a bad idea, but I was wondering what the best kind of finish I should use to protect from a constant humidity? I'm looking for something clear and flat. I usually just use some paste wax, but I don't think that would be good here. Exterior-grade polyurethane would be my guess. You'll want to put on at least three coats, sanding slightly in-between.
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Mar 29, 2015 15:12
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Strange question... I want to put a finish on wood that will make it sort of slippery, durable, and waterproof. Basically, I'd like the board to have the same properties as a piece of this stuff http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/hdpe_sheets/529 My far-fetched idea was to paint it with this http://www.amazon.com/FloraCraft-Floral-Accessories-Acrylic-Water/dp/B003V4A8E0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427735189&sr=8-2&keywords=fake+water
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Mar 30, 2015 18:06
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Wax. You need wax. Possibly over some sort of varnish/shellac if waterproofness is critical. Fake water will almost certainly not do the trick, I doubt very much it goes hard and smooth, if it's anything like the modelling fake water I have for miniature work. Is there a reason you can't just use HDPE?
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Mar 30, 2015 18:15
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Or even better, UHMW. Anyhow, just make whatever it is out of solid lignum vitae.
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Mar 30, 2015 18:31
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thespaceinvader posted:
Cost. Wanna do hundreds of square feet.
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Mar 30, 2015 19:59
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Are you trying to build a bowling alley, or a waterslide? When you say "durable" do you mean impact resistant, abrasion resistant, weather/UV resistant, what? HDPE really isn't all that slippery in the world of plastics, either. Fill us in on what you're trying to accomplish and you might find some people know of alternatives that will actually work BETTER than what you've come up with so far. Otherwise, sure, like thespaceinvader said, wax the poo poo out of it. And re: fake water, that stuff is really just acrylic, which isn't very slippery at all, unless you put something slippery ON it, like wax or soap or whatever. And being acrylic, it's going to be brittle anyhow. That is almost certainly NOT what you want, whatever your mystery purpose is. e: Also that link you posted is for a package with two 4-oz bottles, which you combine, so enjoy your ~8oz (1 cup) of acrylic at $15 a pop. You'd be FAR better served buying UHMW adhesive-backed sheeting from mcmaster-carr at that cost. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 20:19
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bobua posted:Strange question... Marine epoxy with wax or something on top is probably the closest you'll come.
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Mar 30, 2015 22:23
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 There is nothing more frustrating than having your guide move on you while routing.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:55
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Been there, done that. My condolences.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:56
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swampface posted:
Reason number 145,643 why one can never have enough clamps
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Mar 31, 2015 05:15
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bobua posted:Strange question... You can adhere hdpe to wood using heat, it doesn't take much. More practically you might consider Formica.
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Mar 31, 2015 07:48
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Anyone here store varnishes and stuff in plastic squeeze bottles instead of the metal cans they usually come in? I find it quite nice to be able to use a bottle with replaceable cap instead of prying open a can with a knife or screwdriver. Also less risk if you knock the thing over. Like I recently did with some stain...
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Mar 31, 2015 08:45
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Squibbles posted:Reason number 145,643 why one can never have enough clamps Can we get some custom CSS for the thread that just includes this post at the top of every page? One Legged Ninja posted:
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Mar 31, 2015 10:22
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His Divine Shadow posted:Anyone here store varnishes and stuff in plastic squeeze bottles instead of the metal cans they usually come in? I find it quite nice to be able to use a bottle with replaceable cap instead of prying open a can with a knife or screwdriver. Also less risk if you knock the thing over. Like I recently did with some stain... Maybe build / find one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOAK4-Kd7QA
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Mar 31, 2015 10:28
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His Divine Shadow posted:Anyone here store varnishes and stuff in plastic squeeze bottles instead of the metal cans they usually come in? I find it quite nice to be able to use a bottle with replaceable cap instead of prying open a can with a knife or screwdriver. Also less risk if you knock the thing over. Like I recently did with some stain... Mason jars for me.
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Mar 31, 2015 12:59
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ReelBigLizard posted:Maybe build / find one of these: I love this guy. I just got to "chicken salad". Reminds me of my old man.
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Mar 31, 2015 13:03
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mds2 posted:Mason jars for me. I always assumed that they were kept in cans because they'd photodegrade if kept in a clear container. I take it my completely unfounded assumption is in fact false?
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Mar 31, 2015 14:41
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Squibbles posted:Reason number 145,643 why one can never have enough clamps I was using one of these purpose built clamp/guides and it just decided to not actually clamp correctly this time. I don't feel like I can trust it anymore even though it has worked well for me in the past. 
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Mar 31, 2015 17:16
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That's strange. Maybe you'd set it at a slight angle accidentally when engaging the clamp, and then it straightened and was then loose? v  v
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Mar 31, 2015 17:23
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It has to be something like that, I'll have to do some experimentation with it now that I have a nice, wide, ruined tabletop to mess around with. I think I'll try and do the other side with a rabbet plane and see how that works. I was just worried about things tearing out, now I can see if those little nickers on those things actually work as advertised.
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Mar 31, 2015 17:29
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I always assumed that they were kept in cans because they'd photodegrade if kept in a clear container. I take it my completely unfounded assumption is in fact false? I have no idea. I just happened to have a bunch of extra mason jars in my shop.
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Mar 31, 2015 17:53
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wormil posted:I would make sure, some of that stuff sells for silly money. Otherwise tear it up. Before I get too excited, how feasible would this be to on a 4' length of 3/4" plywood?. While *I* can't store any tools inside our place, it's seemingly ok for my wife to keep her pottery tools that are too big for her studio, so I'm having to build a rolling cover for a pugmill.  It'll be roughly 3.5'x4'x2' and I wanted to make a nice joint on it. Initially I was going to make a miter joint, but a full length box joint could be really nice too.
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Mar 31, 2015 19:29
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I have never before thought about a 4' box joint but I suppose you just need a jig large enough. A traditional box joint jig using a spacer is probably easier than making a 4' jig. http://www.finewoodworking.com/interactive/finger-joint-jig-for-the-tablesaw/
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Mar 31, 2015 19:37
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wormil posted:I have never before thought about a 4' box joint but I suppose you just need a jig large enough. A traditional box joint jig using a spacer is probably easier than making a 4' jig. Right, thanks!. I'm about to change workshops (again) and not sure if the new place has a dado stack. That could complicate matters..
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Mar 31, 2015 19:50
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I'm still putting together my shopping list and one of the things I need are planes. Where should I start? I'm looking for something a step above beginners ($0-50) but lower than the $250 plane I was eyeballing at woodcraft. I'm mostly going to be doing small scale woodworking projects with hand tools.
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Mar 31, 2015 20:54
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Spazz posted:I'm still putting together my shopping list and one of the things I need are planes. Where should I start? I'm looking for something a step above beginners ($0-50) but lower than the $250 plane I was eyeballing at woodcraft. I'm mostly going to be doing small scale woodworking projects with hand tools. get some old stanleys off of ebay. they've gone up in price a bit lately but you'll still get a better quality plane for your money than if you bought a brand new one at the same price. ignore any listings that don't have any photos of the sole.
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Mar 31, 2015 21:03
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Spazz posted:I'm still putting together my shopping list and one of the things I need are planes. Where should I start? I'm looking for something a step above beginners ($0-50) but lower than the $250 plane I was eyeballing at woodcraft. I'm mostly going to be doing small scale woodworking projects with hand tools. You can do a lot with just a Stanley #4. Don't worry about getting other sizes or specialty planes until you need them. The next things to look for would probably be a spokeshave (#151), router plane (#71) and a block plane.
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Mar 31, 2015 23:03
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I tend to take the approach of "Buy once, cry once", so do you think it would be smarter to buy the Stanley 12-136 No. 4 over the Stanley 12-204 No 4? It's almost a $100 difference, but if the more expensive one will last longer/go a longer way, I would rather spend the extra cash while I have it. One of my other hobbies is shooting so I'm curious if the difference is comparable to buying a Glock over a HiPoint. The former will shoot even after being buried underground for a year, the latter is best suited as a paperweight.
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Mar 31, 2015 23:44
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Don't buy either of those. I suggest a plane that has been restored by this guy, tablesawtom, over at Woodnet. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB4&Number=6983608&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=all He is a retired machinist with all the proper equipment to flatten plane soles and square up plane sides. I have 3 of his restored planes. A+ would buy again. I think that thread still has a number 5 available at around $90.
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Apr 1, 2015 00:07
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Cutting board finish question. I have a near finished end grain cutting board and based on the Wood Whisperer video I chose to use the General Finishes salad bowl finish he recommended from Rockler. It's supposed to not require quite as much maintenance and seal off the wood well. He recommends thinning 50% with mineral spirits so it allows the finish to fill in the wood thoroughly as opposed to just making a film/coating over it. It's still in the mail so I haven't been able to read what the directions say on the finish itself, but is it safe to mix with mineral spirits on a cutting board that will have tons of food on it? From what it looks like it's said that the mineral spirits will dissolve and shouldn't be a problem, but just wanted to double check.
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Apr 1, 2015 01:44
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I had a reply here, but then I realized I was mixing up mineral spirits and mineral oil in my head. MIneral spirits should be fine, that poo poo evaporates. Mineral OIL, which you didn't mention but was in my head so I'll mention it, is the same thing as butcher's block oil, and is also food safe.
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Apr 1, 2015 01:57
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Spazz posted:I tend to take the approach of "Buy once, cry once", so do you think it would be smarter to buy the Stanley 12-136 No. 4 over the Stanley 12-204 No 4? It's almost a $100 difference, but if the more expensive one will last longer/go a longer way, I would rather spend the extra cash while I have it. The only planes worth buying new are the high-end stuff like Veritas. Whenever anyone talks about buying a Stanley or other brands it's always implied that they mean the older used models, usually from eBay. Buying a tuned up old plane is nice if you have the money but it isn't that hard to do it yourself either. Stanley would be the glock in your example. Other good makers are Record, Union and Miller Falls. They're all the exact same design with minor differences in style details. There are cheaper old planes like Corsair or Craftsman Handyman that work just as well when tuned up. The really cheap made in china/india stuff like Groz or Anant is closer to the HiPoint but can still be functional with some extra work. The design is still the same as the Stanley but the tolerances and metal quality is worse.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:02
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nosleep posted:Cutting board finish question. I have a near finished end grain cutting board and based on the Wood Whisperer video I chose to use the General Finishes salad bowl finish he recommended from Rockler. It's supposed to not require quite as much maintenance and seal off the wood well. He recommends thinning 50% with mineral spirits so it allows the finish to fill in the wood thoroughly as opposed to just making a film/coating over it. It's still in the mail so I haven't been able to read what the directions say on the finish itself, but is it safe to mix with mineral spirits on a cutting board that will have tons of food on it? From what it looks like it's said that the mineral spirits will dissolve and shouldn't be a problem, but just wanted to double check. Straight mineral OIL is perfect. Easy to apply, cheap (buy it at the dollar store), and the end user can reapply it themselves and freshen up the board. I'm sure I've mentioned my grandpa and his cutting boards before. He makes and sells around 250 a year. Every one gets a mineral oil finish.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:20
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Old stanleys are like old smiths Spazz, the analogy breaks down with modern stanleys and we just move into hi-point territory. All my planes have been vintage yard sale finds and the like. And mineral oil / liquid paraffin is what I use to treat cutting boards. Speaking of, I have two end grain boards (one purchased, one I got as a gift) that are coming apart at the outer edges, anything that can be done? His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Apr 1, 2015 |
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Apr 1, 2015 02:38
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