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COOL CORN posted:but hey, I learned lessons! You will never stop doing this. 
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Mar 31, 2015 02:31
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 05:40 |
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The Locator posted:You will never stop doing this. Yeah, yeah, true. But it's hard to look at the now-smudged-up-mess and think "it looked so good just a step or two ago!" I feel like that's a metaphor for life.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:32
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One of the hardest lessons to learn in toy man painting is when to stop.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:38
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That, and stepping away from the work from time to time. I find stepping away and then returning later with fresh eyes can help you spot problems you didn't notice before, and give you a new perspective on the work in progress.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:44
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 I'm happy with the tracks at least.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:45
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By the looks of things your lighting is one-source and super harsh, if you work out how to take better pictures it'll probably look way better.
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Mar 31, 2015 03:18
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big_g posted:Nothing generally, anything specific you would like to know? Well the panel lines were a big thing so thanks for posting that! I guess the next thing I could use advice on is blending with the airbrush. Stuff like pressure settings, etc.
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Mar 31, 2015 03:56
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big_g posted:During shot, just using a moist kitchen roll: I was very interested in getting some until I visited their website and saw it was in the UK and all the prices were in GBP  Then I saw on their ordering page that they ship to anywhere for 2.50 GBP ($3.70)  Can't wait to try it out. My last attempt at something like this was...well, it was a while ago, but I want to say it was enamels over acrylics and it worked okay, but this looks like it will be much better. edit: do you guys really pronounce "decal" to rhyme with shekel and heckle?
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Mar 31, 2015 04:44
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The way he says decal is gross and should be ignored (I'm no Brit, so I don't really know). Dee-Kal for ever.
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Mar 31, 2015 11:16
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Dr. Phildo posted:The way he says decal is gross and should be ignored (I'm no Brit, so I don't really know). I believe most of the world outside of the US pronounces it the way he does.
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Mar 31, 2015 11:53
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I believe most of the world outside of the US pronounces it the way he does. Yeah, it's pronounced that way in several other languages as well (de-KAL in Swedish). Yet I pronounce it DEE-cal in English. It's weird.
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Mar 31, 2015 12:13
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DEE-kal forever (I'm American and in the UK and I'll never get used to it) Does anyone know what the main 'medium' is of the Flory stuff? Having water-soluble wash would make painting stuff way easier than having to use clean spirit or odorless turpentine. I'm on a 'make all my own stuff' kick at the moment...
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Mar 31, 2015 13:04
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I wasn't trying to start a language war. I was just curious if that was how it was pronounced in the UK or if he just mispronounced it.
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Mar 31, 2015 15:02
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If you want a water-soluble paint to use on washes etc, you could try these Windsor & Newton water based oil-paints. They work just the same as normal oil-paints, but you don't need to use any nasty stuff that can attack your paints or other weathering. I usually use the Burned Umber and Raw Sienna for (pin)washes and because you only need a tiny bit for a good wash a tube will last you for years. Speaking of washes/filters, what colours do you guys use for filters? I like to use Cadmium Red Light for tan/dark yellow and Prussian Blue for German grey, but I have no idea what to use on Olive Drab or the Soviet 4BO... Also, DEE-kal superiority! de-KAL sounds like an inbred puppymill Teckel!
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Mar 31, 2015 15:04
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Molentik posted:If you want a water-soluble paint to use on washes etc, you could try these Windsor & Newton water based oil-paints. They work just the same as normal oil-paints, but you don't need to use any nasty stuff that can attack your paints or other weathering. I usually use the Burned Umber and Raw Sienna for (pin)washes and because you only need a tiny bit for a good wash a tube will last you for years. Water based oil, how does that even work?? I find a lot of my washes end up washing out all my previous paint, even after it's totally dry. Like it re-wets the paint or something and instead of getting a nice wash going in the lines and indentations I just get a big dark smudge as the colours mix. Also my friends were going over the border and a US guard was asking about some sticker they had in the window. He had a heavy american accent and kept asking "What's that dee-kal mean?" and my friends had no idea what he was talking about, they nearly got pulled over because the guard thought they were being uncooperative. Finally they figured out "deeeeeeeeee-KALlllllhhh" meant a sticker or decal. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 19:16
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big_g posted:I'm about to reveal to you the best magic cheat button in airplane modelling I've ever come across.  A fast-and-good technique is my favorite thing. Also dee-cal in Aus, brtis are weird.
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Mar 31, 2015 20:57
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Baronjutter posted:Water based oil, how does that even work?? I find a lot of my washes end up washing out all my previous paint, even after it's totally dry. Like it re-wets the paint or something and instead of getting a nice wash going in the lines and indentations I just get a big dark smudge as the colours mix. Blood for the Paint Gods!  Do you seal your paintwork before you apply the wash? My order of painting is usually; - Washing the model with water, a little dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush to get the releasing agent (especially with resin), fingerprints and dust etc off. Airdry. - Primer and let it cure for at least 24h. - Base coat, another 24h of curing. - Modulation and/or camo. - Gloss varnish where the decals go to avoid silvering of the edges. - After decals satin varnish, smooth enough to let the wash flow but rough enough for the filter/wash to leave some colour. - Chipping. - Wash and filter to tie al the colours together. Let it cure properly then wash to get more variation. - Gloss varnish and then a pinwash to put some extra emphasis on the small details. The gloss lets the wash flow much better. - Drybrushing and other detail weathering like oilstains etc. - Matt varnish, again letting it cure properly. - Pastels/pigments etc. - Sobbing in a dark corner, wondering why I'm wasting my life.. Also, if your wash leaves smudges you might want to thin down your wash some more. Molentik fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 21:00
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krushgroove posted:Does anyone know what the main 'medium' is of the Flory stuff? Having water-soluble wash would make painting stuff way easier than having to use clean spirit or odorless turpentine. I'm on a 'make all my own stuff' kick at the moment... In his vids he's says they're made of only a few super basic ingredients; water, a wetting agent to reduce surface tension, and clay for the pigmentation.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:14
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That stuff looks absolutely magical and I will definitely pick some up when I have room to paint! A question, are there any good guides to weathering amphibious vehicles? I'd imagine that something that's exposed to water pretty consistently would weather differently, and the paints that are used are likely to repel materials in a different manner.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:52
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My wash is just alcohol and india ink, I think the alcohol is attacking the paint. Like if I put a black wash on a light gray thing I don't get black details, I get a smudgy darker-gray blob. I should "seal" some how between painting and my wash I guess. Would future work? Or some sort of dullcoat? It's all cardboard buildings I'm painting so no glosses. The paint tends to warp the cardboard as well, but I just give both sides a mist of water then stick it between some heavy books and it dries straight.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:56
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krushgroove posted:DEE-kal forever (I'm American and in the UK and I'll never get used to it) I'm British and in the US and I say DEE-kal, but when I was a kid it was always pronounced 'transfer'. Or 'sticker', by idiots. I wonder if something like those washes could be made with ground pastels in water? They're sort of clay like, I might try that.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:56
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Any tips for doing a primer and/or base coat with a brush? I used tamiya sprays this time but that junk is expensive!
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Mar 31, 2015 23:26
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Unkempt posted:I'm British and in the US and I say DEE-kal, but when I was a kid it was always pronounced 'transfer'. Or 'sticker', by idiots. Yeah it works the same with pastels. Just smother the fucker in a pastel+water mix, let it dry and then rub it off. Gives a good dust effect! For brushing primer, try to put on multiple thin layers instead of one or two thick ones. In the end youll have a better coverage and you won't hide all the details. Molentik fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 23:53
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COOL CORN posted:Any tips for doing a primer and/or base coat with a brush? Yeah, but the time saved is worth it. Your time does have a dollar value in a sense, and if you hand-brush primer or base coat, you'll have to do multiple multiple coats to get good, even coverage, and that has a dollar value too. In the end you're only saving a few dollars, but trading it for a world of hassle. If you want a cheaper alternative to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, I use Rustoleum Painters Touch Primer. It goes on super smooth, it costs a lot less than Tamiya, and you get about five times as much in a can. Same goes for Duplicolor Sandable Primer. I'm not sure if you have an airbrush yet, I'm guessing not, but if you do there are a ton of airbrush primers out there, and they're generally the most economical as they go the farthest.
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Apr 1, 2015 00:03
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I just use GW's spraycans. They do okay. Alternatively basecoat by airbrush. Buy a cheap one for about €20 and cans of compressed air will handle it fine.
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Apr 1, 2015 00:06
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krushgroove posted:DEE-kal forever (I'm American and in the UK and I'll never get used to it) He mentions something in the video about how water will 'reactivate the clay mix'. I'd imagine whatever it is is similar to a much finer-ground version of GW liquid greenstuff. Once it dries solid, it will still absorb water and become workable again. So maybe there isn't really any medium/fixer in it at all - just a fine pigment suspension with some flow-aid? edit: Shoulda scrolled through and seen the three posts already made about this
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Apr 1, 2015 00:25
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Here's a 1/35 Jagdtiger I finished up a while ago. Got back into modeling about a year ago, so I'm really happy with the progress I'm making.     This 1/35 Jagdpanzer IV was my latest completion. My challenge for this project was to use a complete aftermarket PE detail kit. From start to finish, the project took about 11 weeks, but I'm happy with the end results. The figures and stone wall turned out a bit too glossy, I know. I was experimenting with different flat clears and it didn't work out how I wanted.      In the end, I decided I preferred the look without the track skirts, so I left them off. They fell off all the time in the field anyway, so no great loss. Currently on the bench, I've got a Tamiya ISU-152 waiting to be dropped into a muddy diorama and a shot-up Panzer III Ausf G that I've just finished building.
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Apr 1, 2015 00:28
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Arquinsiel posted:Buy a cheap one for about €20 and cans of compressed air will handle it fine. I honestly didn't know this was an option! So I can get into airbrushing without a compressor and all that expensive junk?
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Apr 1, 2015 02:30
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COOL CORN posted:I honestly didn't know this was an option! So I can get into airbrushing without a compressor and all that expensive junk? The costs will quickly add up if you use cans, but it works fine in a pinch.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:35
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It depends on how much you spray. I've gone through three or four cans over the lifetime of my lovely airbrush, and they were pretty cheap. It's not the best option if you plan to use your brush a lot, but it'll get you started.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:43
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COOL CORN posted:I honestly didn't know this was an option! So I can get into airbrushing without a compressor and all that expensive junk? Like others have said, it will be cheaper in the short term than buying a ton of tamiya spray paint but if you are going to stick with the hobby a compressor and decent air brush will be a worthy investment.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:03
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COOL CORN posted:I honestly didn't know this was an option! So I can get into airbrushing without a compressor and all that expensive junk? You can, but the cans have some drawbacks. Similar to spray paint cans, they will freeze up if you run them for too long without giving them a break to thaw.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:36
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While on the topic of airbrushes if I have no idea what I'm doing with an airbrush and compressor should I bring it into a hobby shop to figure out how it works, or puzzle my way through lovely youtube videos?
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Apr 1, 2015 03:38
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Chillyrabbit posted:While on the topic of airbrushes if I have no idea what I'm doing with an airbrush and compressor should I bring it into a hobby shop to figure out how it works, or puzzle my way through lovely youtube videos? They aren't hard to use at all. Get some scrap paper or spare parts and have at it. Probably won't even need the videos. It will become second nature very quickly.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:42
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COOL CORN posted:Any tips for doing a primer and/or base coat with a brush? I was hand brushing with enamels before I switched to rattle cans/an airbrush. I would just do very light coats while avoiding brushing the same spot twice to prevent brush marks. Give each coat enough time to cure before going over it again. I was painting directly out of the jar for the most part. The biggest thing is to use very light coats. I'm not sure if the process is the same for acrylics. George Zimmer posted:They aren't hard to use at all. Get some scrap paper or spare parts and have at it. Probably won't even need the videos. It will become second nature very quickly. Seconding this. I just practiced on a piece of cardboard and got the hang of it pretty quickly.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:44
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George Zimmer posted:They aren't hard to use at all. Get some scrap paper or spare parts and have at it. Probably won't even need the videos. It will become second nature very quickly. I'm unsure where things go and how it all works though since this was my uncles stuff from 1985, so I have no instructions manuals to go from and a lot of the parts are unlabeled/old. So I'm like how do I set this up versus actually using it.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:51
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I'd probably just watch some youtube vids, or search for airbrush tutorials on google. In a nutshell, an airbrush is fairly simple in concept. The main two types you'll see in the hobby are double and single action airbrushes. With single action, the trigger simply depresses, causing paint and air to emit from the tip. They usually have some sort of manual control to set the amount of air and paint you want, but it has to be set before you work. The more common type is the double-action airbrush. With those, you press down to start airflow, and then pull back to vary the amount of paint is expelled. This type has far more control than a single action, allowing you to continuously vary the amount of paint while you're working. Both have their places though, and even those at the top of the hobby or profession still use single-action for quick jobs. Once you have the concept of the trigger action down, you'll need to learn how the amount of air and the distance you work from a surface effects the strokes you make. Air, measured in PSI, is how much air is pushing your paint. The lower the PSI, the more subtle the effects you can do in tiny spots, but go to low and the paint will simply "spit" out of the brush. This can be useful when doing spattering effects, but you generally don't want that when doing regular coats. The higher the pressure goes, the finer the paint atomization is, resulting in a smoother gradient of color, and the more paint you throw. Of course, there are downsides to this too, as going too high can cause tip-dry and can actually just throw the paint past your model without adhering to the surface. Typically in the hobby you operate regularly in the 10-20 psi range, with lower than that for very subtle effects and spattering, and higher than that (typically up to 30psi) for overcoats and priming large areas. Every airbrush is different though, as is every paint, so some may dictate you shoot at a higher or lower pressure as is required. As for strokes, they vary depending on how far you hold the airbrush from your work surface. Hold the airbrush far away, and you get a wide, soft edged line. Hold it close, and you can get down to a sharp hairline (assuming the brush can shoot lines that small). Generally you'll hold the airbrush at a roughly set distance, but some effects will require some movement. If you wanted to do a dagger stripe, as in a line that tapers to a sharp point, you'd have to start at one distance, and then as you want to taper the line you'd have to move the brush closer to reduce the size of the line, as well as tapering off on the amount of paint you're shooting, all in one fluid motion. Practicing doing lines is one of the fundamentals of airbrushing, and there is a ton of instruction out there for it. Generally you want a line to be as straight as possible, with no heavy spots of paint at the beginning and end of the line.
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Apr 1, 2015 03:54
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wtfbacon posted:German TD's... Great looking work! I'm always impressed with well done diorama's like that. They really add a lot to the model by putting it in context. The one thing that jumped out at me in your photo's (that you didn't mention), but it could have been camera/lighting, is that in the view where you are looking at the front of the JPIV, the inside of the barrel looks very bright.
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Apr 1, 2015 05:22
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Chillyrabbit posted:I'm unsure where things go and how it all works though since this was my uncles stuff from 1985, so I have no instructions manuals to go from and a lot of the parts are unlabeled/old. So I'm like how do I set this up versus actually using it. It might be worth giving us the names you can find on the pieces and maybe take pics of the rest? I'm sure we can muddle our way through it!
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Apr 1, 2015 10:32
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 05:40 |
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I picked up the Italieri 1/72nd Nighthawk earlier today. It'll be my first plane, are there any tips I should know before I start?
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Apr 1, 2015 17:59
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