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coolmancraig posted:Good point. I'll see if I can have a look at both back to back and go for the better of the two. I also prefer the colour of the one you linked but the motor looks a little worse for wear - missing the radiator shroud and generally looks dirtier. If I go for the silver one I'll use the other to get him down a bit on the price. I'm not as big a fan of maroon as silver, but the overall condition and records is what you should base a decision on. That ding in the bonnet that Black88GTA pointed out was a good catch, these are the kinds of things that you can use to talk down. AFAIK the M60s are pretty stout, the usual sort of tyre kicking checks should apply I guess? In my experience E34s eat up front suspension so that's something to have a look for as well. Edit: found this in Sydney http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/canterbury/cars-vans-utes/1997-v8-540i-cherry-red-bmw-only-116-000km/1071071012 ![]() hawaiian_robot fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Apr 1, 2015 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 18:47 |
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Comrade Flynn posted:
After the JB4 an LSD is the best mod. MFactory ones are about $2k plus core, but it is only about a 2 hour job in the garage. It totally transforms the car though.
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Comrade Flynn posted:I'm actually really excited about it. 2011 fully loaded 335is with DCT and 15k miles. Going to put a JB4 tune on as soon as we get it and probably throw some MPSS tires on there. Anything else you guys recommend? Start looking for M3/M4's for 6 months down the road ![]() Once those tires are used up Jealous Cow posted:My girlfriend won't let me buy her a new car. She drives a piece of poo poo Corolla and it makes me sad. My wife owned not one but two MK1 MR2s before I met her. One RHD, one LHD. Also a Saleen Foxbody Mustang at one point. She's pretty cool. Ether Frenzy fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Apr 1, 2015 |
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Don't buy a car for your girlfriend, you'll never see that money again Thankfully I learned that lesson cheap, since it was an e30
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Money spent on not-your-car is money lit on fire of course, money spent on your car is also money lit on fire, but you get to warm your hands around that blaze at least
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Comrade Flynn posted:I bought a thing for my wife: Well it's not another Volkswagen but it is very handsome. I'm seeing more of the appeal of the turbo I6's and gaining respect for them. They're extremely capable of wrecking most everything else on the road.
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So I'm in a jam here. My 1995 530i won't unlock with the key. I pull the exterior handle up on the driver door and the interior light comes on. I turn the key counter clockwise in the driver door lock and nothing happens. I turn the driver door lock all the way clockwise and it makes the noises you would expect as it activates all the locks. I've tried the emergency unlock procedure but i can't get the lock to budge. Another twist is that the original key for the car is in the ignition because I have that problem where if I take it out, I might have to spend a good 15 minutes getting it to turn and start the cars so I leave it in. Also, the driver door is not the original. The original driver door developed that problem where the door check rips out so I replaced the door with one from another car so it has a different key than the rest of the car. I have that key in my hand but it suddenly does nothing now. So the key for the passenger door and trunk is in the ignition and the key for the driver door is in my hand but will not unlock the door. I even called my insurance and the company they sent out couldn't do anything because they were trying to unlock the car with the interior locks but the car is double locked so that does nothing. Neither of the two guys they sent out had a slim jim which I think should have worked if they had one. What do I do? This loving sucks.
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FIRST TIME posted:So I'm in a jam here. My 1995 530i won't unlock with the key. What happens exactly? Does the key "feel" normal when you turn it? My '94 840 will unlock all doors and open the windows if you hold the key in the unlock position.when unlocking the doors with the key. Maybe try that? It could be that you have a bad door handle - a rather well known problem on my BMW is an issue that causes the door handle to not open the door, even when unlocked. Traced to a lovely pivot in the handle that breaks.
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I tried turning the key all the way to the unlock position and holding it but nothing happens. I wouldn't be surprised if the handle was broken but shouldn't the car still unlock when I turn the key if that were the case?
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FIRST TIME posted:I tried turning the key all the way to the unlock position and holding it but nothing happens. I wouldn't be surprised if the handle was broken but shouldn't the car still unlock when I turn the key if that were the case? If it feels normal otherwise, what may be happening is that it may be technically unlocking with the key. But if you have a broken handle, it won't engage and actually open the door. I had to spend a couple embarrassing weeks climbing into my car from the passenger side while I waited for a repair part to arrive due to this. If it's stopping where it's supposed to but feels too easy to turn, it's possible the lock linkage has become disconnected (or broken) somehow.
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CornHolio posted:So I'm thinking the tensioner on my 540I is what went bad. Lower pulley on the tensioner wouldn't move when installed, but because it was pissed against the power steering pulley. I pulled everything apart and all pulleys spin freely. Does that sound like a thing that can happen? Ahem. Sorry, I was typing from my phone last night. When I tried to spin the lower tensioner pulley by hand when the tensioner was installed, it wouldn't budge and felt like it was pressed against the power steering pulley. ![]() (The one in the lower middle is the one that wouldn't budge and it was pressed against the power steering pulley, bottom right) When I removed the tensioner and pulleys, everything spins freely. The tensioner is a weird setup that has two pulleys on it. ![]() Am I right in assuming that is what happened?
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revmoo posted:Yup, this. I'm pretty sure they're zf units in the m3s considering the gm ones could barely hold the torque of the m52 Also you guys are incredibly picky for people buying $4k cars, which is your choice of couree, it's your money but it's gonna be a long long time to find the unicorn that is a cheap BMW with an actual service history
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Ahh did not realize the automatic Ms had a ZF box. Anyway, BMWs are insanely cheap in my area at the moment, I'm constantly seeing cheap 328s, 540is, etc for less than 2500 bucks. No records obviously, but 2500 on a car and 2500 in parts gets you a pretty decent runner.
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rscott posted:I'm pretty sure they're zf units in the m3s considering the gm ones could barely hold the torque of the m52 Note I said nothing in my post about the one I purchase being cheap. The point I was attempting to make is that if you wanted to make that particular example the ultimate driving machine again, it would end up costing more than one with a sorted maintenance history.
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Comrade Flynn posted:I bought a thing for my wife: Can I also be your wife? I make a mean omelet.
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getting a clunk while braking at low speeds in my e30. sounds like it's coming from the right rear, could it be that the pad is loose? parking brake shoes? I need to rebuild my rear subframe/trailing arms with new bushings, wheel bearings and calipers.
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BraveUlysses posted:getting a clunk while braking at low speeds in my e30. sounds like it's coming from the right rear, could it be that the pad is loose? parking brake shoes? Make sure to put the slotted trailing arm adjusters in while you're doing that job. Eccentrics are trash.
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El Scotch posted:Can I also be your wife? I make a mean omelet. ![]()
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BraveUlysses posted:I need to rebuild my rear subframe/trailing arms with new bushings
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It still sounds like a brake issue, as far as the noise goes. I'm sure I'll find out once I pull it all out and drop another few hundred bucks on rebuilt calipers, maybe a medium case 4.10 with new clutches, reinforced trailing arms, ect.
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FIRST TIME posted:[...]but the car is double locked so that does nothing. In my 86, double locking puts a pin through all the lock mechanisms with a solenoid, which if that's the case, a slim Jim won't do poo poo. Honestly I have no idea except maybe break a rear window and use the original key in the truck lock to (hopefully) undouble lock it?
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![]() ![]() ![]() EAS's instagram posted:europeanautosource
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I'll take 5 ![]()
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It's cool and all but... the E90 M3 already feels big...
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I, uh, huh. Why would you do this?
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Fixing the factory's mistakes.
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did you guys know gullible is not in the dictionary
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Crustashio posted:did you guys know gullible is not in the dictionary HUH WHAT REALLY
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Crustashio posted:did you guys know gullible is not in the dictionary drat, i got gotten. They should have used a ISF engine cover or something.
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mafoose posted:In my 86, double locking puts a pin through all the lock mechanisms with a solenoid, which if that's the case, a slim Jim won't do poo poo. That's actually a really good idea. I almost broke the window earlier today but chickened out because I hate being wasteful, plus I realized that I probably wouldn't be able to start the car anyway if it's still double locked. Is it pretty certain that you can unlock the double lock from the trunk? If that's the case , then gently caress it, I'll break the window. I've got a spare window anyway. The front passenger door lock is jacked up, so I wouldn't count on being able to unlock the car that way but if the trunk lock will unlock the car, I'll be in business. Edmund Sparkler fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Crustashio posted:did you guys know gullible is not in the dictionary ![]() It worked because it's *almost* feasible that someone would legit do it. (and a pretty solid bit of 'shooping helped)
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Pulled the serp belt off; it feels as though it runs smoother and I don't hear this weird clank when I goose it. Still have the ticking/engine sound behind the driver's front wheel though. This weekend gonna pull the injectors and clean them up best I can, cycle with a 9v battery, all that.
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Crustashio posted:did you guys know gullible is not in the dictionary Goddamnit, got me.
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FIRST TIME posted:I even called my insurance and the company they sent out couldn't do anything because they were trying to unlock the car with the interior locks but the car is double locked so that does nothing. Neither of the two guys they sent out had a slim jim which I think should have worked if they had one. This probably won't make you feel any better, but the day I bought my e30 11 years ago, I double locked the only key in the trunk.
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That's why the manual explicitly says not to lock the doors with anyone inside the car.
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Lightbulb Out posted:HUH WHAT REALLY I mean obviously that's an old one but if you look it up there's no entry for gullibility on wikipedia. There's a bunch of dudes who seriously make a concerted effort to delete any articles that get made about it so that you can tell people there's no article about it on wikipedia and no one will believe you, but it's true.
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Stefan Prodan posted:I mean obviously that's an old one but if you look it up there's no entry for gullibility on wikipedia. There's a bunch of dudes who seriously make a concerted effort to delete any articles that get made about it so that you can tell people there's no article about it on wikipedia and no one will believe you, but it's true. Uh huh
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Lightbulb Out posted:Make sure to put the slotted trailing arm adjusters in while you're doing that job. Eccentrics are trash. Any experience with the slotted adjusters? The subframe is bent on my E30 and I figured if I have to swap it, may as well make the new one adjustable. Seems like those might be kind of easy to knock out of alignment.
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Started doing the lower control arms on the 540. the front arm bushings are done too, so i'm doing it all. The only store in down that can even order them wants $260 a piece for the forward lower control arms so now the entire thing is fuckin stalled waiting for parts from rockauto.
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# ? May 18, 2024 18:47 |
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Dyscrasia posted:Any experience with the slotted adjusters? The subframe is bent on my E30 and I figured if I have to swap it, may as well make the new one adjustable. Seems like those might be kind of easy to knock out of alignment. The eccentrics knock out of alignment just as easily, and then you end up with dynamic rear toe and camber like me! I don't have the slotted ones on my car yet, but I know a couple people who have them and have had 0 issues with slippage. If I recall, those are the stock set up on the E28 M5.
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