|
Since it doesn't even have to take stress, much less be particularly strong, you could form that stuff around a wood cylinder of whatever diameter and then epoxy the join with something like PC-11. But a soldered join would also be fine. Or it could be crimped, or stapled, or brazed, or welded, or stitched together with leather or thread or wire or anything really. Or riveted! I bet pop rivets would work fine, look ok, and they're cheap as hell and are installed with a light hammer.
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2015 06:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 15:37 |
|
|
Hmm, consider brass sheet, too. It's much easier to work with and join. It can be blackened chemically if that is a consideration. You could go thinner too, and at that point you could just electrochemically etch your sheet (brass or steel) for totally custom designs. It's seriously easy: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Electro-Etch-a-Solid-Metal-Plaque/
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2015 16:44
|
|
|
Might be a stupid question, possibly even an wrong thread, but have anyone of you tried to make an acoustic guitar/Kantele out of metal? Does the metal as an material cause any problems withs Sound box and the way the instrument sounds like?
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2015 18:58
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Since it doesn't even have to take stress, much less be particularly strong, you could form that stuff around a wood cylinder of whatever diameter and then epoxy the join with something like PC-11. Ever use PL Premium? I used to use epoxy until someone introduced me to that stuff. The only problem is it comes in those caulking gun size containers.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2015 20:08
|
|
|
Just a Fish posted:Might be a stupid question, possibly even an wrong thread, but have anyone of you tried to make an acoustic guitar/Kantele out of metal? Problem is the wrong word, but definitely different. I have not built those instruments from metal but I have listened to stringed instruments with metal sound boxes, they tend to be brighter, colder, or twangier than wood box instruments. Look up resonator guitar and 'canjo' for an idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWUeJOeVk-Q
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2015 02:31
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Since it doesn't even have to take stress, much less be particularly strong, you could form that stuff around a wood cylinder of whatever diameter and then epoxy the join with something like PC-11. Those are all really good suggestions -- thanks! I've used pop rivets before, so at least on that end I have some experience. ReelBigLizard posted:Hmm, consider brass sheet, too. It's much easier to work with and join. It can be blackened chemically if that is a consideration. I'm digging this too. It would require some experimentation to get the right brass thickness + etch time combination without the lateral etch completely eating away under the mask. Hmm. That could be interesting. edit: Isotropic etching, that's what I'm talking about. I remember some of my semiconductor past after all.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2015 02:38
|
|
|
Does anybody know of any good repository of blacksmithing twists? I have to build a table in the next two weeks and I wanna work a lot of twists into the legs and braces 'cause it isn't something I've explored much yet. I know the basics- the standard twist appearances with different stock profiles, reversed twists, grooved twists, multibar rope twists, pineapple twists, those funky cube/Rubik twists, etc- but twist possibilities are "theoretically infinite" and yet you only really run into a small clutch of them in common use.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2015 16:43
|
|
|
Made... this. As an excuse to practise consistent twisting and reverse twisting. Still managed to put one extra reverse twist on one of the segments by accident, lost count of my rotations. (it's a 20 inch spreader bar commission, used for sinful things  ) 
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 00:32
|
|
|
What kind of stock did that start out as?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 07:41
|
|
|
Just a Fish posted:Might be a stupid question, possibly even an wrong thread, but have anyone of you tried to make an acoustic guitar/Kantele out of metal? You want to google "Steel guitars".
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 09:58
|
|
|
Thanks for all the advice on CNC stuff, I finally got the hang of cambam, and this weekend I think I'm gonna turn this to brass. I got scraps of this PVC finishing board, it mills super easy. I used a 3mm 2 flute endmill instead of the weirdo 6 flute 1.941mm thing that came with my dremel. I did set the depth pass to 0.1mm so it took a lonnng time to run, but my machine is not rigid enough to do much better I think. (ghetto homemade cnc toy)   The brand pattern: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 11:46
|
|
|
Shim Howard posted:What kind of stock did that start out as? 1/2". probably coulda gotten away with 3/8" but it's got nice heft to it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 12:28
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:1/2". probably coulda gotten away with 3/8" but it's got nice heft to it. I'm sure someone's joints are going to appreciate that heft.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 12:34
|
|
|
Feature, not a bug~ e: the weight was discussed and the 1.8 pounds it works out to is fine. 3/8" or even aluminium, if I were doing simpler cold twisting/embellishment, would probably be preferable in general. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Apr 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 13:21
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:Feature, not a bug~ So long as it isn't being used for suspension work, then joints won't have a ton of problems with the weight even up to 5lbs. The shackle/manacle is usually where issues arise with weight or rigidity since the weight isn't usually distributed as evenly as you can with a spreader bar. Not that I have any knowledge on this subject.  edit:   Kink friendly blacksmiths unite.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 22:49
|
|
|
I had no idea there was a market for blacksmithed S&M gear, but I guess I shouldn't be surprised. How much does something like that spreader cost Ambrose? Just asking for a friend. In non-kinkchat news, I cut out my pattern and did some light sanding:  I need to clean up the lettering just a bit, but I'll be ready to shove it in some petrobond (if it arrives) this weekend and pour some hot brass in its imprint.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
Yeah, I've been asked to make several custom devices and man will people pay good money for something they fully intend to stick up their butt.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
Random Number posted:Yeah, I've been asked to make several custom devices and man will people pay good money for something they fully intend to stick up their butt. You know, you can't really not put "custom devices" in quotes. edit: Now I'm even wondering how this conversation starts/progresses.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 02:36
|
|
|
Man, I had a bunch of snarky followups to this, and then I realized I am in the wrong line of business.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 02:41
|
|
|
Hu Fa Ted posted:I had no idea there was a market for blacksmithed S&M gear, but I guess I shouldn't be surprised. How much does something like that spreader cost Ambrose? Just asking for a friend. The cockrings I've sold wholesale lots of retail/ed for ~$50, but I only scraped back a fraction of that; that spreader'll probably go for a friendrated $50 too, but you could ask a lot more from the right buyer. Not bad for an hour and a half's work. The big catch with making gear is: you have to be able to 'vouch' for it. You have to know that your design works as intended and is comfortable and as safe as can be. Something like a cockring isn't too hard- has to have a standard-increment ID, has to be well-finished and have no hard internal edges, that kind of thing- but more complex gear is much dicier. Either be a freak or have a freaky friend who's willing to crash-test your poo poo as you iterate your designs. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Apr 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 03:10
|
|
|
"Could you uh... make me a dildo?" "Yeah sure I guess."
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 03:12
|
|
|
I don't think I even posted the dingus ring I made last week.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 03:17
|
|
|
This thread never stops being awesome. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 03:47
|
|
|
According to local legend, a student in our shop once made a dildo for his girlfriend as a present. Idiot decided that aluminum was a good material choice. Yeah, not so much, she ended up in the hospital with aluminum toxicity. At least he didn't use the ultra-machinable brass, I guess. Lead poisoning isn't very romantic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 03:59
|
|
|
Aluminum is actually one of the better metals to make sex toys out of- it's markedly innocuous and nontoxic in contact with skin, and its insta-self-healing oxide layer shrugs off the harsh and varied operating conditions of the bedroom, particularly if anodized. Anything involving penetration has to be anodized. Not as good as titanium or stainless steel but still a viable option for most applications 
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Apr 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 04:13
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:Anything involving penetration has to be anodized. I actually just repaired the power supply for the anodizing station at school right before spring break, and we did just get in some 2 inch aluminum round stock in. Hmmm. HMMM. Wonder how my ultraconservative instructor would react when he asks what I'm working on and I tell him a butt plug.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 06:07
|
|
|
"It's for plugging a hole in a waste-disposal system."Ambrose Burnside posted:Aluminum is actually one of the better metals to make sex toys out of- it's markedly innocuous and nontoxic in contact with skin, and its insta-self-healing oxide layer shrugs off the harsh and varied operating conditions of the bedroom, particularly if anodized. Anything involving penetration has to be anodized. Not as good as titanium or stainless steel but still a viable option for most applications I'll take your word for it, but I'm guessing this guy didn't bother. Probably smart enough to wash the coolant off at least, but you never know.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 06:53
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:Aluminum is actually one of the better metals to make sex toys out of- it's markedly innocuous and nontoxic in contact with skin, and its insta-self-healing oxide layer shrugs off the harsh and varied operating conditions of the bedroom, particularly if anodized. Anything involving penetration has to be anodized. Not as good as titanium or stainless steel but still a viable option for most applications This is too long for a thread title 
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 08:50
|
|
|
Karia posted:I'll take your word for it, but I'm guessing this guy didn't bother. Probably smart enough to wash the coolant off at least, but you never know. The anodizing is to keep the aluminum from getting damaged or discolored. Aluminum isn't toxic and I've never heard of anyone being allergic to it. Aluminum toxicity has to do with people with acute renal failure taking medicines containing high levels of aluminum.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 14:28
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:The anodizing is to keep the aluminum from getting damaged or discolored. Aluminum isn't toxic and I've never heard of anyone being allergic to it. Hmm, I wonder if shoving aluminum into your rear end might involve some aluminum making its way into your blood stream through micro tears in the anus or by being forced deeper into the intestines by the action of the dildo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 16:39
|
|
|
The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > Creative Convention > DIY & Hobbies > Blacksmithing / Metalwork: Anything involving penetration has to be anodized.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 16:54
|
|
|
Jeherrin posted:The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > Creative Convention > DIY & Hobbies > Blacksmithing / Metalwork: Anything involving penetration has to be anodized.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 16:57
|
|
|
You know, I just started following this thread and this is easily the most interesting turn w/r/t topic of conversation. I used to do some TIG welding and we had a lot of stainless steel scrap laying around. I, myself, have partaken in the creation of kink tools - you know, for 'friends'
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
*slung blade comes in* WHAT THE gently caress HAPPENED TO MY THREAD
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 17:53
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:*slung blade comes in* WHAT THE gently caress HAPPENED TO MY THREAD No worries: Slung Blade posted:Also, absolutely no kink shaming ITT
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
Thirding "Anything involving penetration has to be anodized" In other news my slow foray into making doodads with silver and copper continue. I'm making a copper toothbrush stand, these will make up the left and right vertical pieces on top of an 8ga base piece.  And random experiments attempting to hot work 1/10th inch square stock silver! (URL since timg isn't working for me right now?) http://i.imgur.com/lQvO9Ma.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mwTkaWL.jpg
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 19:39
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:*slung blade comes in* WHAT THE gently caress HAPPENED TO MY THREAD You guys can't phase me. I've been using the internet professionally for a decade and a half or something, I've seen some poo poo. Also I like seeing everything that everyone makes. I think it's great.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 19:54
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:*slung blade comes in* WHAT THE gently caress HAPPENED TO MY THREAD Slung blade: "A dingus ring you say?"
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 21:47
|
|
|
The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > Creative Convention > DIY & Hobbies > Blacksmithing / Metalwork: Toys must be anodized prior to penetration.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 15:37 |
|
|
Sorry to break up kink chat, but its official. I'm a machinist. Or a first year apprentice to be more accurate. Got 85% on my final exam. You may now return to discussing how to make fun things.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:20
|
|
