|
serious gaylord posted:Theres nothing wrong with using that stuff in an airbrush. Please don't try and promote things that are just not true. It can damage your airbrush if you don't know what you are doing or use the wrong product. Varnishes especially can turn your airbrush into a useless brick if you use the wrong type and do not clean it out properly. That statement is 100% true. If you use the correct chemicals in your airbrush you won't damage it. If you want to save 4 dollars and possibly ruin your airbrush because some Windex knockoff product has a chemical that is possibly corrosive then that's a bad thing. You will never go wrong with using products designed for airbrushes by airbrush companies for usage in a airbrush, in your airbrush. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Apr 2, 2015 |
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 14:02 |
|
|
Hollismason posted:It can damage your airbrush if you don't know what you are doing or use the wrong product. Varnishes especially can turn your airbrush into a useless brick if you use the wrong type and do not clean it out properly. Yes, and Future will do that exactly as easily as Vallejo varnish. If you don't know how to clean your brush you don't know how to clean your brush, the Vallejo name on the bottle won't change that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:46
|
|
|
If you use that floor polish in your airbrush and then use a product for cleaning out airbrush varnish it can damage your airbrush.Again you'll very rarely go wrong with putting air brush products designed for airbrushes in your airbrush. Not pushing a brand , Vallejo was an example. I've made that mistake of using a product that damaged a airbrush I had. That's all.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:48
|
|
|
You'll go wrong with an airbrush if you don't know what you're doing period. I've seen people destroy airbrushes from cleaning it incorrectly using proper airbrush poo poo because they've bent the needle. Stop trying to poo poo this thread up like you've done for all the others.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:50
|
|
|
I'm just suggesting caution and due diligence when doing it that's it. Also I think I misread it anyway and he's just painting it on.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
Make your own airbrush thinner at home from squirrel blood, save even more money.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 23:55
|
|
|
People don't use future because it's cheaper. They use it because it's better.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:00
|
|
|
I was worried that I'd been making a critical mistake with my airbrush until I got halfway through that post and realised who it was.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:00
|
|
|
spacegoat posted:I was worried that I'd been making a critical mistake with my airbrush until I got halfway through that post and realised who it was. It's not an uncommon position to have though. People get all huffy about using COMMON HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS when we should be using REAL ART SUPPLIES or whatever. The woman who formulates Reaper paint somewhat infamously hates Future and refuses to "make her paint play nice with your floor wax" but whatever. There's no such thing as "airbrush varnish", it doesn't have different ingredients in it, its just varnish that is thin enough to blow through a brush and can be cleaned the same way you clean anything else acrylic and water-based. For the record, "I use it because its better, not because it's cheaper" also applies to Windex. I started out using brand-name airbrush cleaner and it sucked, Windex works a lot better for cleaning.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:07
|
|
|
Guys I wanted to do some special effects so I tried to airbrush some quikrete onto some minis but now my airbrush doesn't seem to be working. The needle seemed a bit stuck so I put some vice grips on it to try to loosen it up, doesn't seem to have helped. I also tried cleaning it with bleach and ammonia, but that didn't help and I'm not feeling so hot this evening so I think I'm just going to go lie down, but do you have any recommendations for what to do next?
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:10
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Guys I wanted to do some special effects so I tried to airbrush some quikrete onto some minis but now my airbrush doesn't seem to be working. The needle seemed a bit stuck so I put some vice grips on it to try to loosen it up, doesn't seem to have helped. I also tried cleaning it with bleach and ammonia, but that didn't help and I'm not feeling so hot this evening so I think I'm just going to go lie down, but do you have any recommendations for what to do next? Was it Army Painter Quikrete? If not there's your problem.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:13
|
|
|
I know everyone else has said it but I just wanted to add my voice to the mix to say there is nothing wrong with using future and windex through an airbrush. Been doing it for years, Yo!
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:15
|
|
|
Got a question about model building and heavy weathering: I've got some Steel Legion that I'm finally going to paint and I want to heavily weather the Chimeras (including salt weathering.) I also want to add some stowage, panniers, etc. Should I go ahead and put all that stuff on before painting, or should I wait until after? I can see pros and cons to both, but I've never done any weathering before, and I'd like some input from people who've actually done it before I jump in.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:17
|
|
|
on weathering, does anyone have any good tutorials on how to make it look good on 6mm models? I've been having some trouble with how to make them look used, while still retaining the contrast you need at such a small scale.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:29
|
|
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Got a question about model building and heavy weathering: I've got some Steel Legion that I'm finally going to paint and I want to heavily weather the Chimeras (including salt weathering.) I also want to add some stowage, panniers, etc. Should I go ahead and put all that stuff on before painting, or should I wait until after? I can see pros and cons to both, but I've never done any weathering before, and I'd like some input from people who've actually done it before I jump in. I'd probably glue them on after. If you want to get some good chipping effects in a certain spot and a bit is in the way, you'll just end up having to pop it off. That said, stuff closer to the top of the tank should probably be fine--smoke launchers, searchlights, and the like.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:29
|
|
|
Big_G just did great example of salt weathering for a plane he built that I am stealing, I suggest that method. I wanna try it out on some Necron Models.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:43
|
|
|
Signal posted:on weathering, does anyone have any good tutorials on how to make it look good on 6mm models? I've been having some trouble with how to make them look used, while still retaining the contrast you need at such a small scale. It's tough, but you can do it. You'll have to exaggerate everything - "normal" weathering isn't going to show up at that scale. If you look at my blitz brigade (second pic down,) I did mine by painting a base silver color, then stippling/sponging on the red. It's backward of how you'd do it on a larger scale model, but I found it worked a little better. Either way you do it, you're going to want to sponge/stipple your paint. Then I applied a black ink wash over everything and it blended everything together. On my lighter colored Krieg, I'm going to sponge on Charadon Granite "chips" to give a high-contrast weathering look. Also, if you do any sort of overpainting (stripes, unit markings, etc) make sure you stipple those with your base color so it looks like everything is affected. Check out the second pic down of the Macharius to see what I'm talking about. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
People baby their airbrushes because they are expensive tools, which is understandable. That said, outside of the tiny parts you can loose or break they are typically made out of solid machined metal. Besides a gaskets or O ring that could corrode over time, your airbrush is better built than your mouse and keyboard. It'll take more than windex to put it down.JerryLee posted:Make your own airbrush thinner at home from squirrel blood, save even more money. Wrong About Airbrushes
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 01:32
|
|
|
How do you make kantor blue not look like pseudo-black on the table? I'm holding off buying a knight and painting it in crimson fist colours because I fear it will look too dark.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 01:39
|
|
|
BULBASAUR posted:People baby their airbrushes because they are expensive tools, which is understandable. That said, outside of the tiny parts you can loose or break they are typically made out of solid machined metal. Besides a gaskets or O ring that could corrode over time, your airbrush is better built than your mouse and keyboard. It'll take more than windex to put it down. My roommate uses a $600 H&S for his job and he's sent buckets of unthinned floor varnish through that thing. And they are by far the most finnicky and sensitive airbrushes people buy for painting miniatures (he paints furniture and stuff with his but still). Saying that you need to use special airbrush varnish over Future is like saying that you need to only use GW paint on Warhammer minis because it's specially formulated to coat GW's jewel like objects of wonder. Spoiler: every professional painter using an air brush probably runs future and windex through it because they are the best at their jobs. Faust is like the Julia Child of miniatures painting and he does it and that's good enough for me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 01:48
|
|
|
I'm not advocating anything other than be careful with your poo poo, and yes I am nitpicky about my airbrush. It's more about using offbrand items or other stuff that has chemicals in it that you do not know about that damage it, that's it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
No household chemical any sane person would shoot through an airbrush will irreversibly destroy metal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 02:34
|
|
|
moths posted:No household chemical any sane person would shoot through an airbrush will irreversibly destroy metal. My home is a meth lab.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
Hollismason posted:I'm not advocating anything other than be careful with your poo poo, and yes I am nitpicky about my airbrush. It's more about using offbrand items or other stuff that has chemicals in it that you do not know about that damage it, that's it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 02:43
|
|
|
I've used Future for years on scale models. I don't use it because its cheap, I use it because its tough as hell and can stand up to having even hot lacquers sprayed on to it. Its one of the best ways to protect a piece and use it regularly as a "save point", if you will, between different layers in a technique; such as when doing multi-layer weathering. E.g.:
Scale modelling! You are now addicted to green apple scented acrylic! Yeah if you don't clean your airbrush properly getting dried Future in it is going to be a pain in the rear end but even then you won't damage it permanently. Go at it with a brass brush and some Windex if you accidentally left your brush sitting around overnight full of floor finish and it will be as good as new. You need to really abuse the poo poo out of an airbrush to break it for good. Now I want to do a looted tank in badly chipped orc colors with the original Guard colors underneath and the factory finish under that. I bet the Mechanicum uses Red Oxide Primer. Just bet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 02:48
|
|
|
I would never spray a chemical through my airbrush!
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 02:48
|
|
|
Use only organic free range paint.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 02:51
|
|
|
Sauer posted:I've used Future for years on scale models. I don't use it because its cheap, I use it because its tough as hell and can stand up to having even hot lacquers sprayed on to it. Its one of the best ways to protect a piece and use it regularly as a "save point", if you will, between different layers in a technique; such as when doing multi-layer weathering. E.g.: Since I zenithal prime, I've been experimenting with:
I was skeptical but it works BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Apr 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 03:26
|
|
|
Sauer posted:Use only organic free range paint. I only use brand name dihydrogen monoxide to thin my paints
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 03:27
|
|
|
I don't spray stuff that contains chemicals I don't know about through my airbrush, unlike all the paint whose exact chemical composition I am of course aware of. Edit: for a second I thought Chip That poo poo was a product name and I got really excited.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 03:48
|
|
|
You guys need to get over this cleaners in airbrushes bullshit. The real threat is all that UNFILTERED air you are blowing through your airbrushes. Im talking HEPA filtered Ionized purified oxygen. Personally I just pick some extra when I'm down at the local oxygen bar. Give it a try.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 04:01
|
|
|
If you don't shut yourself in a closet and mix random cleaning supplies into your airbrush paints, then I don't even
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 04:15
|
|
|
Floor wax professors HATE HIM! This goon found a chemical-free solution for airbrushing using this one weird tip. e: If you people don't use these under your air hoses then I don't even want to look at you. 
JerryLee fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Apr 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 04:21
|
|
|
Guys, I'm made of chemicals. Should I be using an airbrush? Is it ok if I'm in a hermetically sealed suit?
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 04:24
|
|
|
I knew about Future but Windex too? An extremely expensive hobby is sounding marginally less expensive by the minute.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 06:00
|
|
|
Hey I want this airbrush argument to continue for a few more pages so someone tell me just what "airbrush thinner" is and whether or not I can use tap water instead.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 06:11
|
|
|
DiHK posted:Hey I want this airbrush argument to continue for a few more pages so someone tell me just what "airbrush thinner" is and whether or not I can use tap water instead. Airbrush thinner is a chemical that actually eats away at the insides of your airbrush, thereby making the walls of your airbrush 'thinner'. You'd have to have have some pretty corosive water to get the same effect. Hth.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 06:18
|
|
|
loving phone.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 06:18
|
|
|
The Ammonia in Windex weakens acrylic and it sprays nicely. It also eats brass but is so dilute in Windex that it is harmless to your brush. Just don't soak your airbrush in a bucket of it for a month. Airbrush thinner is water. You can fancy it up with acrylic mediums to prevent the binder in your paint from falling apart but that's probably only if you're buying really cheap paint that is mostly already water. I do have a big bottle of Liquitex Airbrushing Medium I use but only because it works really well and is cheap as poo poo. Question to bros with gravity feed brushes. How often do you lay your brush down forgetting its a gravity feed?
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 06:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 14:02 |
|
|
I've got a thingy like this that prevents me from ever making that mistake. Also, I don't care what you spray through your airbrush, spend the $25 for a decent 3M respirator and some quality filter cartridges. Even non-toxic atomized paints can do some pretty terrible poo poo to your lungs, and once you start in on lacquers and ammonia and poo poo, you're looking at the possibility of severe irritation at the very least. Plus, you can get sensitized to things the more you're exposed to them, and lung-based allergic reactions from stuff you previously didn't notice are basically the worst thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 06:31
|
|
