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signalnoise posted:What is your paint/supplies and mini-in-progress transportation and prep solution? Luckily I drove down, so cardboard boxes for minis. In progress? Blue tac to upside down rubbermaid lid could work for troops. The biggest thing is basing material keeps coming off before I can prime them. Otherwise I just spray into a bigger cardboard box outside.
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Apr 10, 2015 21:56
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Well here's a product recommendation: I've been seeing this at art stores forever, and finally picked some up at Target. It's really nice for flocking bases. It's grippy as hell, water-soluble, and the best part is I can't gently caress up the dispenser like I have for every bottle of wood glue I've ever bought.
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Apr 10, 2015 22:38
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Do you dilute it with water, or just use it as-is?
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Apr 10, 2015 23:17
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I applied it with a damp brush, so I did thin it but not nearly as much as when I used Tacky Glue or fabric glue.
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Apr 10, 2015 23:37
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Has anyone tried using artist acrylics for painting minis? I've got an artist friend who wants to dump a bunch of her fluid Liquitex acrylics on me that she doesn't use anymore. Definitely not going to say know to free paint but I was curious how good a job they do; and if something like Tri-Art or Liquitex Soft-Body can be shot through an airbrush without falling apart? Can't see any reason why they wouldn't perform just fine given that they use high quality pigments and tons of binder so thinning them out for brushing on minis and airbrushing should not be an issue I would imagine. Any of you have experience with the products the beret wearers use? The prices beats the crap out of miniature specific paints as well.
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Apr 11, 2015 00:07
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Pierzak posted:Which one? I've got two from different generations that I use as entirely separate colors The one right before the switch to the new paints. The Coat d' Arms one is that horrid greenish one iirc.
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Apr 11, 2015 00:08
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When you all paint bases or terrain with glue to get a coat on or to add flock, are we talking watered down elmers white glue, or watered down elmers wood glue?
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Apr 11, 2015 02:12
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Arcturas posted:When you all paint bases or terrain with glue to get a coat on or to add flock, are we talking watered down elmers white glue, or watered down elmers wood glue? http://www.amazon.com/ALEENES-15599-Purpose-Glue-8-Ounce/dp/B00178KLEY
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Apr 11, 2015 02:17
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Both Elmer's are PVA glues. The wood glue just dries yellow the white one dries clear... ish.
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Apr 11, 2015 02:32
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Gotcha, thanks.
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Apr 11, 2015 02:46
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SRM posted:I use PVA glue. You can go to any art supply store and get a big ol' bottle of it. I use whatever I can find at Michel's - usually it's called tacky glue. This is what's on my desk right now: Is tacky glue different than pva? I definitely see a difference between Aleenes and Elmers but it really seems like Elmers white glue is just a watered down tacky glue. Oh, and I had been using mod podge as a cheap water/liquid effect on bases and even as a sealant(this is long before I found this thread). I never thought of using it for flocking. I tried it out and it works really well. Good to know since I have a big ol bottle left over. Now, any suggestions on what I am supposed to do with all this gesso?
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Apr 11, 2015 03:45
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Sauer posted:Has anyone tried using artist acrylics for painting minis? I've got an artist friend who wants to dump a bunch of her fluid Liquitex acrylics on me that she doesn't use anymore. Definitely not going to say know to free paint but I was curious how good a job they do; and if something like Tri-Art or Liquitex Soft-Body can be shot through an airbrush without falling apart? Can't see any reason why they wouldn't perform just fine given that they use high quality pigments and tons of binder so thinning them out for brushing on minis and airbrushing should not be an issue I would imagine. Any of you have experience with the products the beret wearers use? They work but you need to thin them and some types really don't like being thinned for some reason.
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Apr 11, 2015 04:07
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There's no real difference between that tacky stuff and elmers other than the amount of water in it. There may also be some Borax in the tacky stuff which causes PVA to thicken. If you want PVA glue with more "body" to it get the tacky stuff. Gesso can apparently be used as a mini primer without issue. I've never tried it and never will as long as Vallejo keeps making their polyurethane base primers.
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Apr 11, 2015 04:09
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If you don't want to use it on models, gesso is great for use on terrain pieces.
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Apr 11, 2015 04:18
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moths posted:Well here's a product recommendation: Seconding the hell out of this. It's so grippy, in fact, that even after giving minis a good long soak in Purple Power, I still have to scrape the Mod Podge off of the bases.  I just put a blob of MP on my palette, thin it with just a very little bit of water, and go to town. It's also much easier to control and apply than regular ol' Elmer's Glue, too (though you could probably solve that issue by thickening the PVA glue up with talcum powder or something).Sauer posted:Gesso can apparently be used as a mini primer without issue. I've never tried it and never will as long as Vallejo keeps making their polyurethane base primers. I've used both and can recommend them to anyone looking for a good brush-on primer (i.e., people like me who live in humid climates and/or don't have an airbrush just yet).
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Apr 11, 2015 17:16
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Beginner question: How do I make a wash out of a Citadel base color?
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Apr 11, 2015 19:10
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SERPUS posted:Beginner question: How do I make a wash out of a Citadel base color? Cheapest/easiest way? Put some on a pallet and water it the gently caress down. More effective way: flow aid or thinner, water, and paint on a pallet. Plain water will inevitably be less effective because the pigments will start to separate and become kind of clunky, but with a thinner or flow aid in there it will help keep it from breaking apart too much. A cheap and easy thinner is getting some Pledge Floor Wax and make a 50/50 mix with water. Very effective and readily available pretty much anywhere, and a bottle will cost you less than  Bonus is that it is also a good gloss varnish, so any unthinned portions will see plenty of use.
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Apr 11, 2015 19:24
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You should be aware, though, that paints thinned won't generally work as well as washes/inks at being washes/inks, because paints are particles in suspension whereas washes and inks are usually coloured solutions. If you dilute paints too far, they start being too thin to actually colour things effectively.
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Apr 11, 2015 19:54
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I was playing with some inkpen ink I picked up, Higgins Black Magic and I liked the way it flowed more than the various Citadel washes I tried in the past. Speaking of ink... I just looked and it's 41% off right now. http://www.dickblick.com/products/daler-rowney-fw-acrylic-water-resistant-artists-ink/
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Apr 11, 2015 20:19
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Going tomtry my SOTAR for the first time tomorrow. Anything I should be especially aware of, compared to my cheap China brush? I'll be using Vallejo model air with Windex equivalent for cleaning .
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Apr 11, 2015 21:03
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Basically what you've heard from all the experienced airbrushers: thin the paint (with cleaner/thinner or water, not Windex) to a skim milk consistency, make sure you're comfortable with taking it apart and putting it back together properly and make sure you're thorough with your cleaning.
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Apr 11, 2015 21:44
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I've used both and can recommend them to anyone looking for a good brush-on primer (i.e., people like me who live in humid climates and/or don't have an airbrush just yet). I've recently discovered that it works great with an airbrush as well. Just thin it down same as paint, if not a little more, and go to town.
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Apr 12, 2015 00:48
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So I updated my Knight's paint job, finally deciding to weather it a bit and wash it as well as add detail to its base. Forgive the kind of lazy photography. What do you guys think?   Edit: For reference this is what it used to look like 
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Apr 12, 2015 01:54
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I get that he just sawed that dude, but wouldn't that saw be more for cutting into tanks rather than bisecting foot troops? It's OK, but I wouldn't have bloodied the blade personally. Otherwise it looks ace. The weathering works really well.
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Apr 12, 2015 02:01
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Originally I was going to transplant the vanguard vet marine that I used as a test model for my chapter's paint scheme onto the base as well, implying that the guardsman was cut in half by him, but I figured it would be too cluttered. The blood on the saw is more of a "cutting through large groups of infantry" as well as tanks, which is why it is pretty bloody. I actually layered the blood so that it is thinner on the tip where the spinning would have removed it, and thicker closer to the base. At least, that is what I was going for. I imagine this thing just cuts lots of stuff to pieces as well as stomps things. (It also looks a bit better in person. My photography kind of sucked tonight)
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Apr 12, 2015 02:08
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the weathering is neat but I think the base was better without the rocks and dead dude it just draws attention away from the cool titan
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Apr 12, 2015 02:26
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That was actually the first thing that grabbed my attention, too. I started wondering about the force required to hack a guardsman in half, and it seems like he should be splattered all over the base instead of taking a nap in his guts. But gore physics aside, it definitely distracts from the cool giant robit. e: Or cut up like fifteen guardsmen and have him wading through bodies 
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Apr 12, 2015 03:25
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Paint the big rocks a dark grey with a light grey drybrush, they'll stick out less. Dead dude is fine to me.
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Apr 12, 2015 03:57
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Paint the big rocks a dark grey with a light grey drybrush, they'll stick out less. Dead dude is fine to me.  It's really silly to paint rocks to look like rocks, but sometimes you just gotta.
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Apr 12, 2015 07:24
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I should found the Simple Bases Society - Down with the tyranny of tufts!
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Apr 12, 2015 07:26
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moths posted:Well here's a product recommendation: Everyone needs some of this. It takes to being watered down really really well, and it's loving everywhere so I never have to order it online.
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Apr 12, 2015 08:46
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Any recommendations for a spray matte coating that will protect minis from table use? Preferably something I can get online.
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Apr 12, 2015 17:03
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Unzip and Attack posted:Any recommendations for a spray matte coating that will protect minis from table use? Preferably something I can get online. Testor's Dullcote is the thread's usual recommendation. That or Future Floor Wax.
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Apr 12, 2015 17:41
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Unzip and Attack posted:Any recommendations for a spray matte coating that will protect minis from table use? Preferably something I can get online. What you'll want to do is use a gloss coat first, like Testors Glosscote or Future floor polish, and then spray a layer of matte or satin on top. My understanding is that the matte vs satin vs gloss is just how light reflects off the model, and only the top layer really matters. With that in mind you use a gloss to provide some hardness to the top coat and then do matte for the visual effect.
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Apr 12, 2015 17:45
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signalnoise posted:gloss to provide some hardness to the top coat and then do matte for the visual effect. This, if you have an airbrush spray on Future floor wax and wait a day, then cover that with satin or matte varnish (different folks like different brands/finishes), if you don't have an airbrush use 'Ardcoat or an auto body clear lacquer, wait a day and top with Testor's Dullcote (which is the thread's default suggestion and a long time favorite of many modelers).
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Apr 12, 2015 19:34
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Anyone who has done the hairspray chipping technique: Do you have to begin the chipping process immediately after applying your top paint layer, or can you wait? I've seen both "begin the process immediately after your paint layer is dry to the touch" and "whenever you get around to it..."
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Apr 12, 2015 20:31
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Also as far as getting stuff online- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ http://www.thewarstore.com/product33266.html
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Apr 12, 2015 20:32
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Anyone try out the Vallejo Game Air colored primers yet? Are they worth it?
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Apr 12, 2015 20:36
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone who has done the hairspray chipping technique: Do you have to begin the chipping process immediately after applying your top paint layer, or can you wait? I've seen both "begin the process immediately after your paint layer is dry to the touch" and "whenever you get around to it..." I've waited a couple hours before doing the chipping and had no real problem. My gut feeling tells me that you probably don't want to wait more than a day or two to get around to it, but I've no real science to back that up. But, hell, may as well just do it at your earliest convenience, right?
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Apr 12, 2015 20:44
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone who has done the hairspray chipping technique: Do you have to begin the chipping process immediately after applying your top paint layer, or can you wait? I've seen both "begin the process immediately after your paint layer is dry to the touch" and "whenever you get around to it..." Acrylics are dry to the touch in a couple minutes but completely cured in a few hours depending on brand. You want to start fairly quickly, but you dont have to go right at it straight away. The longer you leave it the bigger the chunks of paint you pull off will be.
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Apr 12, 2015 21:07
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