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Voronoi Potato posted:Thanks so much for taking my simple questions Paul's workbench is going to cost you like $40 in materials and you'll learn a lot from making it.
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Apr 14, 2015 06:13
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. I might start with the sawbench and work up to paul's workbench 
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My advice to someone just starting out is to not bother with the cheaper crappy tools. Buy your stuff from a good store like Lee Valley. LV offers full 90 day refunds (including shipping if you don't have a store near you) for any reason on almost everything they sell, and the vast majority of their tools are good quality, even their cheaper stuff (which isn't really that much more expensive than Home Depot quality crap) so it's hard to go wrong. The only problem is they have so much cool poo poo it's easy to go broke buying stuff you can just make for nothing. Also I just made a "workbench" for my 700 square foot apartment. It's 8 5' long doug fir 2x4s salvaged from a 30 year old deck. I glued them together and drilled two dog holes for a plane stop. I just lay it on the floor on some of that non-slip cupboard lining. Works great (as long as you're used to sitting on the floor).
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Apr 15, 2015 07:21
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I think hand planes are one of the few things you can't find a cheaper good version of, aside from lucky used findings.
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Apr 15, 2015 18:21
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Is a planer/jointer the only way to get flat pieces from rough cut wood?
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Apr 15, 2015 18:33
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MickRaider posted:Is a planer/jointer the only way to get flat pieces from rough cut wood? You can hand plane things, of course -- people made high-quality wooden boards before we had power tools. It's a lot more work though. You can rig up a jig with a router table that can serve as a light-duty jointer if you can offset your fences. Just make the offset of the fence equal to the amount of material removed by a straight bit in the router. This won't get you flat board faces of course, but if you have a flat face then you can use the router jig to get a 90° edge to that face.
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Apr 15, 2015 18:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can hand plane things, of course -- people made high-quality wooden boards before we had power tools. It's a lot more work though. Right that makes sense. I knew about hand planing but I'm not enough of a purist/too lazy to try that. I do have a router and a decent router table. I'll also look into making a jig
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Apr 15, 2015 19:11
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Table saw jigs are a good alternative as well. Steve Ramsay makes one in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrYjc3G1vgo
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Apr 15, 2015 19:34
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Sylink posted:I think hand planes are one of the few things you can't find a cheaper good version of, aside from lucky used findings. If you're fine with adjusting wooden planes, Mujingfang makes really nice planes and you can get a smoothing plane for around $40 US. They make a Taiwan style for pulling and a Hong Kong style for pushing (or pulling) so you can also get whatever method you prefer.
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Apr 15, 2015 19:43
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I haven't done any big furniture projects in years, I haven't worked from raw planks since I was a little kid helping my grandfather, and I have no access to power tools. I know, I'll make a solid maple top for my new computer desk!   I've got nearly 3/4" to hand plane off. 
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Apr 15, 2015 20:24
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oxbrain posted:I've got nearly 3/4" to hand plane off. Jesus dude, from maple? Buy yourself a router and making a flattening jig, you'll save so much time.
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Apr 15, 2015 21:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Jesus dude, from maple? Buy yourself a router and making a flattening jig, you'll save so much time. Seconding this.
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Apr 15, 2015 21:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Jesus dude, from maple? Buy yourself a router and making a flattening jig, you'll save so much time. But just think of how swole he'd be at the end of it.
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Apr 15, 2015 21:23
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I'll probably go that route after wearing myself out this way. I wasn't expecting this much warping and I haven't done any big maple stuff to realize how quickly it dulls the blade. I put in a couple hours last night and got maybe a quarter of the way done on one side.
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Apr 15, 2015 22:03
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You may be better off in the long run by cutting it with a band saw, truing up the various sections then regluing it. And if you are do it well no one will notice. Though some people really love their solid slabs.
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Apr 15, 2015 22:37
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So I'm just getting into woodworking. I have some basic hand tools, a cheap Ryobi jigsaw / drill / detail sander, and a DeWalt DWE7480 table saw that my wife got me for my birthday. My wife wants a curio cabinet. She was looking at this for $700, which looks super easy to make despite my relative lack of skill. I'm going to try and knock one together out of walnut and plate glass, but I'd like some advice: Are there any tools I'm going to wish I had once I get started? The table saw is my only stationary tool How should I go about joining the pieces together? I want to avoid using pocket holes even though I have a Kreg jig. Right now I'm thinking mortise and tenon, but that might be because I've watched a lot of Wandel's videos and he loves him some M&T joints. Will I run into any problems if I widen the design out to 36"? If I also reduce the depth to about 10"? Am I wrong in thinking that I can put this sucker together for maybe $200, tops? Thanks!
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Apr 15, 2015 23:02
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oxbrain posted:I'll probably go that route after wearing myself out this way. I wasn't expecting this much warping and I haven't done any big maple stuff to realize how quickly it dulls the blade. I put in a couple hours last night and got maybe a quarter of the way done on one side. Are you at least using a scrub plane to hog material off?
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Apr 15, 2015 23:06
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King Hotpants posted:So I'm just getting into woodworking. I have some basic hand tools, a cheap Ryobi jigsaw / drill / detail sander, and a DeWalt DWE7480 table saw that my wife got me for my birthday. You're going to want a router table or a good dado stack for the dados and rebates. I'd probably do a compound miter on those top joints, probably with a hidden spline. That's just me, though. That one is almost certainly just pocket screwed or tenoned. The lower joints, a M&T is probably ideal. As far as widening, I'd say it depends partly on how thick/strong your plate glass is. There's plenty of strength in the stretchers since all the force is spread evenly along their length and it's all transferred down into the legs through the joinery. You'll probably pay $200 or more for just the glass, btw. Tempered plate glass is spendy. edit: you should probably put together a crosscut sled for your TS since you don't have a miter saw. Magnus Praeda fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 15, 2015 23:14
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King Hotpants posted:So I'm just getting into woodworking. I have some basic hand tools, a cheap Ryobi jigsaw / drill / detail sander, and a DeWalt DWE7480 table saw that my wife got me for my birthday. A router would be nice to do the glass inset but that can be done with a carefully set up table saw. Otherwise it is just a matter of making several good clean cuts and joining them however you choose. It shouldn't be to hard.
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Apr 15, 2015 23:18
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Magnus Praeda posted:You're going to want a router table or a good dado stack for the dados and rebates. I'd probably do a compound miter on those top joints, probably with a hidden spline. That's just me, though. That one is almost certainly just pocket screwed or tenoned. The lower joints, a M&T is probably ideal. Atticus_1354 posted:A router would be nice to do the glass inset but that can be done with a carefully set up table saw. Otherwise it is just a matter of making several good clean cuts and joining them however you choose. It shouldn't be to hard. Thanks for the input. I do have a crosscut sled for the saw; it's actually the first thing I built when I brought it home. I've been practicing my precise cutting by carefully making tool holders, and so far I've cut dadoes and rabbets via careful application of clamps and rip fence adjustments. I will get in touch with some local glass shops and adjust my pricing expectations accordingly. I just looked at that shelf and thought "there's no loving way it's worth anywhere near $700," so even if I come out closer to $400 than $200 I'll still be very happy.
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Apr 15, 2015 23:33
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King Hotpants posted:My wife wants a curio cabinet. She was looking at this for $700 dCOR design The Buskerud Curio Cabinet The Buskerud is made of solid walnut with glass doors and two tier shelves so that you can use it to display your prized possessions. Features: Material: Ash wood and glass Finish: Walnut  What kind of bullshit is this company trying to peddle?
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Apr 16, 2015 00:57
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SkunkDuster posted:dCOR design The Buskerud Curio Cabinet Another reason I want to build it myself: I'll know what I'm getting.
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Apr 16, 2015 01:34
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I'm revamping my homemade shop vac before I am starting on the DC project so it won't be such a huge clumsy lump in my shop. Took some inspiration from woodgears again and the V1 dust collector he made, I feel like I am turning into a woodgears shill. Anyway it used to look like this, an inefficient design and heavy, and ugly. The cyclone wasn't attached to anything and the pipes where just friction fit so pulling the hose could make the whole cyclone and bucket come loose:  This is the new design, painted parts of it so it won't get so dirty. Lighter and more compact design, the cyclone assembly is attached to the frame, the bucket will be easy to take on and off as well. Replacing the old pipes with a wooden box instead, that's also attached, and a new hepa filter.  The filter pops down into a hole that makes for a snug fit, it sits right atop the . This big "manifold" on the top will make it easier to take it out and clean the filter and allow for a lot of airflow compared to the earlier design, and this large size helps get around the problems with the sharp curves and slows down the air speed after the cyclone, which is said to improve fine dust separation somewhat. The old vacuum hose has been replaced with a 2" DC hose. 
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Apr 16, 2015 06:22
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MickRaider posted:Is a planer/jointer the only way to get flat pieces from rough cut wood? You can both edge and face joint with router jigs. Edge joint using a split fence like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6nql7mlSOo] Face joint using a floating router setup like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpU5dZlW2pg
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Apr 16, 2015 22:20
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Are you at least using a scrub plane to hog material off? I haven't needed one before now, and they're damned expensive on ebay. I can get a new veritas scrub plane for the same price as a used stanley #40. Oh well, $10 at HF and some time with a file later...   I did it for a laugh, but it actually works really well. Another 1/16-1/8" out of the center should bring that half flat. I need a longer straight edge.
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Apr 17, 2015 02:12
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oxbrain posted:I haven't needed one before now, and they're damned expensive on ebay. I can get a new veritas scrub plane for the same price as a used stanley #40. Paul Sellers has a video on turning a regular old stanley into a scrub plane I guess. https://paulsellers.com/2014/07/scrub-planes-from-common-4-smoothing-planes/
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Apr 17, 2015 02:42
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Workin' on a dresser.          Walnut and maple throughout, even the frames and drawer boxes. The jig in one of the first few photos is for both the dadoes and sliding dovetails. Rout the dado all the way across, then 3" of sliding dovetail with another router before moving the jig to the next.The web frames are mortise and loose tenon. The back of each side "runner" has 1/8" or so of space at the back and is left unglued so account for the movement of the solid wood case sides. Still have to make a top (the one I had in mind turned out not to be long OR wide enough, oh well, looks like it'll be a nightstand top now), chamfer the base top edge, make some tiny cove molding that goes above the chamfer, turn the knobs out of walnut, fit the back and spend a couple years sanding and finishing. It's 54" tall, 20" deep. The top row of drawers are about 7" and each row increases in height by 1" as you go down. 7,8,9,10,11. Was definitely a bit nervous embarking on this one.
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Apr 17, 2015 23:25
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Squibbles posted:Paul Sellers has a video on turning a regular old stanley into a scrub plane I guess. I did that with a less than stellar eBay #4 and it works real good.
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Apr 18, 2015 04:34
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ChaoticSeven posted:Workin' on a dresser. HOLY poo poo
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Apr 18, 2015 07:03
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ChaoticSeven posted:Workin' on a dresser. Hell yeah, you are.
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Apr 18, 2015 07:28
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Posted this in the reloading thread, figured you guys might like it. My dad built me a pretty bitchin' reloading bench.  
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Apr 18, 2015 22:30
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I just got a bunch of cheap tropical hardwood (Indonesian "Mahogany") but it seems to be rather wet from the guy storing it outside for an unknown amount of time. It was at least stacked with spaces between the boards spacers between the layers and I've stacked it that way in my garage now too. Should I do anything other than just let it sit there and dry out, hoping it doesn't warp too much? Should I put a fan in front of it or anything or is that going to make it dry unevenly? The boards are about 7 feet long and 3" x 2 1/2". Good price at $1.25 per linear foot. Hopefully it doesn't warp too badly and turn out to be total junk! Here's the ad with some pictures of the wood: http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/mat/4981793467.html
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Apr 19, 2015 14:44
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ChaoticSeven posted:Workin' on a dresser. Fantastic work. If anyone happens to be looking for a 36" bandsaw, this one has been on my local craigslist for months now, price slowly dropping from ~$2000 to $650. No clue on the brand quality, but it looks like a beast. I'd have to remove a wall to get that into my shop. 
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Apr 20, 2015 15:06
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God drat you people are talented. I'm working on a small project, i gift for a friend (so i dont actually have to buy anything)  Still need to make the eyes and nose bit deeper and sanding and grinding etc And wondering if the deeper parts would look better completely black or wood color =/
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Apr 21, 2015 19:56
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Just a Fish posted:God drat you people are talented. "God drat you people are talented" -> posts something awesome. Regarding colors, though, generally my experience is that pure black and pure white don't look good as shading tones because they're too clearly artificial. Very dark is preferable to black.
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Apr 21, 2015 20:04
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Heh, thanks =) Yeah, kinda i agree. Too high contrast difference might look weird =/ Hell, maybe i'll try to gently burn them with an soldering iron and hope that it will turn even enough?
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Apr 21, 2015 20:21
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Squibbles posted:I just got a bunch of cheap tropical hardwood (Indonesian "Mahogany") but it seems to be rather wet from the guy storing it outside for an unknown amount of time. It was at least stacked with spaces between the boards spacers between the layers and I've stacked it that way in my garage now too. By "unknown amount of time", is it safe to assume we're talking years? Big difference if we're talking green wood vs already-dried but wet from leaving outside. If we assume the latter, warping isn't as big of a risk but could still happen. After wood is originally dried, it won't regain the same moisture content as it had green. Hard to tell from the pics, but is it all pretty straight as-is? Being that it's some pretty nice wood, I would invest in or borrow a moisture meter and see what it reads. If it is high, you might want to look around and see what it would cost to have it kiln-dried. e: what is the humidity/temp like where you have it now? Disclaimer: I'm pretty much guessing bimmian fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Apr 21, 2015 |
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Apr 21, 2015 20:47
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The plow plane I ordered from Lee Valley came in today and my initial impression is that I love it. I used it to make the grooves on the travelling bookcase I am building, also used it to make the rabbets on the back of the cases. It worked flawlessly, and it was so satisfying to see the long skinny shavings rolling up. I'll probably build an auxiliary fence for it because when I was making some test grooves I had a tendency to skew it on the beginning and end, a longer fence will help me with that. Here's a shot of a groove.  The side of the bookcase, quite a bit of different joinery types on this single piece of wood. Somehow I managed to not screw anything up...yet.  The bookcase, and the book where I got the plans to build it. I modified the plans based on the wood I had available. I found it quite funny that the plans in the book couldn't actually fit the book on it. I guess historically books were a bit smaller?  Here is the back. The back panels are some white cedar I resawed and bookmatched. Going to leave the back panels unfinished so I get that nice cedar scent.
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Apr 22, 2015 00:47
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Meow Meow Meow posted:The plow plane I ordered from Lee Valley came in today and my initial impression is that I love it. Cool plane. Also cool bookcase. Keep posting pictures as you progress. I have been thinking about something similar for my plant and wildlife field guides.
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Apr 22, 2015 00:53
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bimmian posted:By "unknown amount of time", is it safe to assume we're talking years? Big difference if we're talking green wood vs already-dried but wet from leaving outside. If we assume the latter, warping isn't as big of a risk but could still happen. After wood is originally dried, it won't regain the same moisture content as it had green. Hard to tell from the pics, but is it all pretty straight as-is? Being that it's some pretty nice wood, I would invest in or borrow a moisture meter and see what it reads. If it is high, you might want to look around and see what it would cost to have it kiln-dried. I'm in Vancouver so it's a pretty humid but temperate climate. It's been warm and sunny this week but the rain just showed up today. I stacked all the wood in the garage though so at least it will keep the rain off. The day after got the wood it was noticeably more humid in the garage so I guess that's good in that moisture is leaving the boards. I cut one in half and it seemed damp all the way through. I took an end piece and trimmed about 1/8" off all the sides and two days later it still feels damp to the touch. I'm considering picking up a cheap dehumidifier off craigslist to see if that helps increase the drying rate. And maybe setting up a fan in front of the stack to get some air movement going.
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Apr 22, 2015 01:06
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Squibbles posted:Given that the stacked up wood had turned grey it's possible it was there for quite a while but I really have no idea. A fan will help, at the very least have it venting the area if it's getting noticeably more humid. Just make sure you have the fan blowing into the side of the stack, not the ends. If the area is > ~60% humidity then a dehumidifier could help, just don't take it down too low where it'll dry too fast, you could get some end-checking. From what I gather, it is a fine balance between humidity, air temp, and air movement.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:32
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