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Well, when I play Diablo 3 my ping is like 600 - 1000 MS on the 5 GHz network. On the 2.4 it is ~30 and never really gets above that.
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Apr 11, 2015 09:09
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beergod posted:I'm kind of confused as to why the OP still recommends the Airport Extreme. You cannot change any settings really, even basic ones, because Apple removed the ability to do that in the newest versions of the Airport Utility. You can't even use the older versions of the software to make the changes because the firmware automatically reverts the settings back to automatic (I think). Yeah, for some reason they locked out the transmit power on the antennas. I think the last version of the AirPort Utility that could do that was 5.2 or something. I know it does smart power levels based on your home's RF profile, but it would still be nice to have control for troubleshooting. Can still change the channels and do things like MAC filtering and opening up specific ports, but leaving out transmit power is pretty egregious in my eyes. And I'm saying this as a guy who uses almost 100% Apple at home (and even mostly at work from a client perspective). I still think for the average person, it's a very good wireless router and *should* remain in the OP for that kind of use. For someone that is not technically inclined and/or has no desire to go under the hood but wants best-in-class wireless in their home it's an excellent choice. But for anyone that likes to tinker or has an unusual environment, it's probably not the best choice. I still use one, but this is probably the last one I buy. I have access to plenty of enterprise class APs through work, but really I like the Apple, "let's just set it up and not have to worry about anything". But it looks like my next AP will be one of our .11ac models. I just didn't want to have sit down and build a config from scratch after doing stuff like that from day to day. EDIT:^^^ Missed your last one. 2.4 has a farther range and better material penetration than 5GHz. Power won't make up for occlusions. See what kind materials you have between your computer and the AP. Try elevating the AP. Also, it could very well be the 5GHz transmitter on your client adapter. Are you using a USB dongle? PCIe? Integrated? If you can try, see if you can adjust your antenna orientation on the client as well. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Apr 11, 2015 |
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Apr 11, 2015 13:40
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Thanks. There is really nothing between my PC and the router. It's all in one living room/kitchen partitioned by a half wall. I'm using a TP Link AC1200 dongle. I guess I could try to elevate the router? It seems so bizarre in the TYOOL 2015 to have to do that with a $200 router I just bought.
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Apr 11, 2015 20:30
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beergod posted:Thanks. There is really nothing between my PC and the router. It's all in one living room/kitchen partitioned by a half wall. I'm using a TP Link AC1200 dongle. I guess I could try to elevate the router? It seems so bizarre in the TYOOL 2015 to have to do that with a $200 router I just bought. The physics of wireless transmissions don't change... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omnidirectional_antenna
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Apr 11, 2015 21:22
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If anyone is in the market for a new cable modem I just saw the Motorola/Arris SB6141 at Costco for $75, compared to $90 at Amazon. I didn't see it on their website, and a lot of their stuff isn't in every store, but it's worth a look if you're a member there.
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Apr 11, 2015 21:27
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hi goons, router question: I have a TP-LINK1043NDv1 (the original 150mbps version) and I run dd-wrt as its firmware. Last night, I attempted to change the firmware from an experimental version to a more stable one. However, I think I somehow may have updated a corrupted version of the new firmware. While I still am able to browse the internet and use wireless and wired connections through the router, I can't actually log into the router itself via 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.11.1 (which is what is showing up using ipconfig /all). How bad did I gently caress up? And if I hosed up super bad, how can I fix this? My preliminary research hasn't turned up anything besides some crazy youtube video where a guy has to open up his 1043nd and solder some poo poo to fix something similar. If anyone has some helpful advice I'd gladly appreciate it!
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Apr 13, 2015 09:44
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Are you attempting to access your router configuration page via a wireless connection? It might be set to wired-only for security reasons.
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Apr 13, 2015 09:47
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Well, my sister's laptop managed to update to 8.1 fine, and the Internet connection seems to be working correctly everywhere now. 
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Apr 13, 2015 12:54
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That is pretty strange. But at least you didn't need to buy any new hardware.
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Apr 13, 2015 13:13
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NebZ posted:hi goons, router question: Aside from accessing the router over a wired connection as isndl suggested you can always use the reset button the router to clear the configuration and restore the defaults to see if that helps.
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Apr 13, 2015 13:14
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I'm going to be moving in with my girlfriend in a few weeks. She lives in a two story townhouse, which luckily has little WiFi interference. She has Verizon FiOS with their white box on the 1st floor in probably the most inconvenient spot. My desktop and NAS will be on the second floor and going to have it wired. I'll also be hooking my Roku up to her TV, which is currently wired on my network. I'm using the ASUS AC68U, which I'll probably be using with the Verizon router in bridge mode as trying to run ethernet from the Verizon connection to where the router would be is a pain. Would the Roku suffer from streaming on wireless? Or should I sit down and wire the house?
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Apr 13, 2015 13:35
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That will depend on how good the reception for the Roku is. Generally wireless N with reasonable reception is fine for streaming Netflix and such. My wife is able to stream Netflix to her 1080p tablet just fine on the back porch with ~34% signal on N. I imagine the Roku might want to pull a higher bit rate stream for the larger screen of the TV, but then again it might not. You can always start out with wifi and then wire the Roku if you need to. Personally I wire in anything that isn't a laptop, phone, or tablet. Partly because wired is always better and partly to keep the number of wifi clients on the network low so the spectrum doesn't get too crowded. Antillie fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Apr 13, 2015 |
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Apr 13, 2015 14:11
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I have U-Verse and have been using the provided gateway device (Motorola NVG589) for routing and wifi. But with the release of Apple's iCloud Photo Library, the lack of QoS capability in that router has become quite evident (my pings go to poo poo when any of my devices are pushing photos up). So, seems it's time to bypass the NVG589 (as much as it allows) and get my own router + wifi device. I'm not really a wifi power user - usual devices are a few laptops/phones/tablets all doing standard browsing or at worst streaming Netflix. But I'm willing to spend some extra money so that whatever I buy has a reasonably long useful life. I have a mid-sized 4br house and there's a convenient centrally located closet where I can put the access point. The NVG589 reaches all corners of the house from there, so I'm assuming anything I replace it with will do the same or better. I'm okay with the vendor's firmware if it does flexible enough QoS, but am not against replacing it with DD-WRT or similar if necessary. From reviews I've read, my best options appear to be either the Asus RT-AC68U, the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 or the TP-Link Archer C7. The C7 is attractive from a price and performance standpoint but it doesn't have any native QoS support, so that's a deal killer unless the 3rd party firmware support is excellent. Any particular suggestions?
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Apr 14, 2015 00:03
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How bad is WPA-TKIP? I'm stuck using it unless I call Comcast to get them to fix my modem, and I know they have to make me jump through all the T1 hoops even if I claim to be Leonard Bosack. I can't remember if I updated the firmware on the modem yet, I'll try that first just in case I didn't.
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Apr 14, 2015 02:12
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22 Eargesplitten posted:How bad is WPA-TKIP? I'm stuck using it unless I call Comcast to get them to fix my modem, and I know they have to make me jump through all the T1 hoops even if I claim to be Leonard Bosack. It's not bad. There's a vulnerability with TKIP that makes it vulnerable to a Bek-Tews attack (and the improved Ohigashi-Morii attack). It's mostly a variant of the old WEP chopchop technique but FAR less effective. There's two variations of this: Packet decryption and Packet injection. The first isn't much of a worry, the second even less of one. Both of these are more academic in nature than actually used, and really more of warning like "Hey, WPA was supposed to cure all ills, but we found a weakness, so move to WPA2 which was designed in part to address this weakness". For packet decryption: Due to the rate-limiting nature of the MIC, it will take about 15 minutes to decode the smallest packet (ARP). An attempt to decode any kind of data stream is unrealistic. Packet injection: If the attacker wants to inject any meaningful payload, there are easier ways to do it than compromising TKIP. The most common use is injecting corrupted payloads (again, usually of ARP packets) to force resets or retransmission. But again, limited value. So, use WPA2-CCMP when you can, but you aren't significantly at risk using WPA-TKIP. There's a little more with WPA in general (The temporal key salt generation) but for home use, it's fine. EDIT: I was conflating two different attacks for the packet injection. Sorry. Proteus Jones fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 02:29
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The other advantage of WPA2-CCMP (a variant of AES-CBC) is speed. AES is significantly faster than pretty much every other non terrible block cipher out there when done in software. This doesn't really matter on a PC or laptop but on a phone, tablet, or other embedded device it can create a significant difference in wifi performance. It can even affect the APs themselves. My Unifi APs are lightning fast with AES but terrible with TKIP. It is also common to see AES hardware accelerated, modern Intel CPUs do this, and so do many embedded devices. But I have never seen hardware accelerated TKIP.
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Apr 14, 2015 03:10
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NebZ posted:hi goons, router question: With Linksys routers, if you were able to get the router to assign you an IP, you could use TFTP to connect to them and upload a basic version of the firmware which would then let you upload a complete version. Look up TFTP flashing for your router and see if's supported.
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Apr 14, 2015 03:22
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Antillie posted:The other advantage of WPA2-CCMP (a variant of AES-CBC) is speed. AES is significantly faster than pretty much every other non terrible block cipher out there when done in software. This doesn't really matter on a PC or laptop but on a phone, tablet, or other embedded device it can create a significant difference in wifi performance. It can even affect the APs themselves. My Unifi APs are lightning fast with AES but terrible with TKIP. It is also common to see AES hardware accelerated, modern Intel CPUs do this, and so do many embedded devices. But I have never seen hardware accelerated TKIP. Oh, yes. That too. The point you make is a very good point. Even more, probably more salient than my "here's how it's (not-so)bad security-wise". From a performance perspective, AES is definitely light-years ahead of TKIP. I guess I see where my blinders are. Thanks to my job, whenever anyone asks me about something network (wired or wireless) related, my first go to is always "can it be broken in interesting ways?"
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Apr 14, 2015 03:32
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Alowishus posted:I have U-Verse and have been using the provided gateway device (Motorola NVG589) for routing and wifi. But with the release of Apple's iCloud Photo Library, the lack of QoS capability in that router has become quite evident (my pings go to poo poo when any of my devices are pushing photos up). So, seems it's time to bypass the NVG589 (as much as it allows) and get my own router + wifi device. According to the Amazon reviews the Archer C7 does support QoS, "Note about support for QoS (Quality of Service): One reviewer stated that QoS is not supported in the Archer C7. However, I found that the settings are indeed there, but under 'Bandwidth Control'.". However I do not own one myself so I can't really be certain if it does or not. Also don't expect to be able to use wireless AC very far from the router. The 5ghz band does not penetrate walls very well so you are probably going to be limited to using the 2.4ghz band most of the time. If you didn't also need a router I would suggest one or two Unifi APs. However I think any of the routers you mentioned should do the job. You can always get a second one and use it as a AP later if you need to. (Or just get an actual AP.) Antillie fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 03:33
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Antillie posted:Also don't expect to be able to use wireless AC very far from the router. The 5ghz band does not penetrate walls very well so you are probably going to be limited to using the 2.4ghz band most of the time. Well, that's true, but it's highly dependent on construction materials (elevation helps too). For a 4BR home, in a central location, it should be fine. I have a "mid-sized" single-story 4BR with an AC APExtreme almost dead center with no issues regarding coverage. In fact I'm posting this from my laptop in my home office, which is in a corner room with an RSSI of -47dBm, an SNR of 38 and a Tx of 867Mbps. Looking right now, the only device that's using 2.4GHz is the PS3 (only has a 2.4GHz client). I count about 4 walls and a cabinet in between my laptop and the AP. To be honest, it's a fairly modern construction single floor with all the pipes and ducts being underfloor. If you have older style plaster and lathe you may encounter issues as Antillie points out. And while multi-path is a *good* thing with 802.11n and 802.11ac, too much reflection is a bad thing. Multi-story you may run into issues as well and may very well need to set up a bridge or second AP.
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Apr 14, 2015 03:49
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:With Linksys routers, if you were able to get the router to assign you an IP, you could use TFTP to connect to them and upload a basic version of the firmware which would then let you upload a complete version. This worked, thanks!
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Apr 14, 2015 04:04
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Yeah the construction materials make a big difference. My place has two floors with a staircase in the center so most of the internal walls are load bearing. This means they are all almost solid studs so getting wifi coverage is a challenge, even with two Unifi APs running in the 2.4ghz band. There are also pipes and AC ducts running between the floors. My wife also likes to be able to watch netflix on her tablet on the front porch. The brick front on the house also makes this interesting to achieve. But the Unifi APs do it just fine now that I have them positioned correctly.
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Apr 14, 2015 04:06
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Antillie posted:The other advantage of WPA2-CCMP (a variant of AES-CBC) is speed. AES is significantly faster than pretty much every other non terrible block cipher out there when done in software. This doesn't really matter on a PC or laptop but on a phone, tablet, or other embedded device it can create a significant difference in wifi performance. It can even affect the APs themselves. My Unifi APs are lightning fast with AES but terrible with TKIP. It is also common to see AES hardware accelerated, modern Intel CPUs do this, and so do many embedded devices. But I have never seen hardware accelerated TKIP. The 802.11n-2009 specification artificially restricts network speed to 54Mbps max when WEP/WPA-TKIP is in use. This was done to help force adoption of WPA2. Furthermore, if your network is set to WPA/WPA2 mixed mode and a WPA-TKIP only client joins the network, all devices on the network will be capped to 54Mbps.
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Apr 14, 2015 15:03
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That's interesting. I did not know that. Overall I think that is a good design choice on the part of the IEEE despite my usual hatred for artificial limits on hardware.
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Apr 14, 2015 15:28
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So my power went out last week and when it came back on the R6300 was not responding. I assumed that the the firmware was corrupted as that happened a couple times before. But it times out when I try to inject firmware into it over TFTP, and is not returning pings. Any suggestions? Netgear support has basically told me I'm on my own since the router is a little over 2 years old. I tried filling a claim with Monster since it was plugged into one of their protectors. At this point I'm assuming I need to just get a new router so I'm open to suggestions. I was liking the Wi-Fi speeds getting up to the 105 that comcast is giving me, and my roommate plays a lot of league. I was looking at the nighthawk, but I had a hard time justifying the R6300 to myself at 200 and don't think I could bring myself to the nighthawk's 280 dollar price tag.
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Apr 16, 2015 19:00
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Antillie posted:For routers the ASUS RT-N66U is a good wireless N option and the ASUS RT-AC66U is a good wireless AC choice. However it is very hard to beat the Archer C7 which is not only cheaper, but one of the fastest consumer routers on the market today, easily able to handle gigabit speeds. Yes, I am lazy.
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Apr 16, 2015 19:32
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I'm moving into my own two story townhouse (more of an apartment as far as size is concerned) and I gotta get a new ISP. The ISP wants to charge me 10/mo for a wireless modem, which is temping considering it will be just one unit guaranteed to work. But the option exists where I can provide my own and waive the $10. Our speed is going to be up to 50MBS, but it does require DOCSIS 3.0 on the modem if I buy one. Should I just get a Motorola Surfboard Extreme for $130 that has a modem and wireless functionality built into it? The only real special thing I'd like is port forwarding if I have to, other than that I think i'm good. It will be just me and one other person using the internet for gaming, youtube, netflix, and so on.
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Apr 16, 2015 21:30
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Antillie posted:Yes, I am lazy. Thanks, that Archer C7 seems perfect.
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Apr 16, 2015 21:38
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PSWII60 posted:So my power went out last week and when it came back on the R6300 was not responding. I assumed that the the firmware was corrupted as that happened a couple times before. But it times out when I try to inject firmware into it over TFTP, and is not returning pings. Any suggestions? It may not be the issue but check the power brick with a multimeter if you have one handy, the power bricks seem to die on routers more frequently than a lot of other things. It may have been damaged in your power outage. If you don't have a multimeter try to find one that's the same voltage and the same or higher milliamps. If it is the power adapter they're usually less than $10 on amazon.
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Apr 16, 2015 21:48
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Avocados posted:it will be just one unit guaranteed to work.  It is nothing of the sort.
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Apr 16, 2015 22:52
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I got a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite, updated the firmware to v1.6 but seem to have lost the port forwarding wizard. Anyone know where to dl the wizards from?
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Apr 16, 2015 22:55
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Avocados posted:I'm moving into my own two story townhouse (more of an apartment as far as size is concerned) and I gotta get a new ISP. The ISP wants to charge me 10/mo for a wireless modem, which is temping considering it will be just one unit guaranteed to work. But the option exists where I can provide my own and waive the $10. Our speed is going to be up to 50MBS, but it does require DOCSIS 3.0 on the modem if I buy one. ISP provided modem/router combo devices tend to suck. I would check with your ISP and see what modems they allow on their network. Also keep in mind that different modems may be rated for different speeds by the ISP. So don't get a modem that is slower than the speed you are paying for. If they allow the SB6121 or SB6141 I would get one of them as Motorola consumer modems are generally high quality. However neither of these modems includes a wifi router. This a good thing from a reliability standpoint. It also allows you to replace either your router or modem without replacing the other one. But it also means that you need to buy a router if you don't already have one. However it also saves you $10 a month on modem rental. If you really like the idea of a modem/router combo device the SBG6580 isn't terrible. The one I had lasted about three years before it died. I had it in bridge mode though (router and wifi features turned off). The SBG6782 is the wireless AC version. These devices cost a bit more but they save you having to buy a router and you still get to save $10 a month on modem rental. Antillie fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 01:10
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fliptophead posted:I got a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite, updated the firmware to v1.6 but seem to have lost the port forwarding wizard. Anyone know where to dl the wizards from? I don't know. But someone on the Ubiquiti Forums might. There are a number of Ubiquiti employees and some very knowledgeable Ubiquiti users who are quite active there Antillie fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 01:30
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Is there any reason Wireless AC would cut out on a router that has no such issues on Wireless N? I'm getting stuters every 10-60 seconds on my Asus AC66U and TP-Link Wireless AC receiver. I can't really determine if it's the receiver or the router and both are outside their return policy. I wouldn't normally care but I have a 100 Megabit connection through my ISP and the intranet max on 5 GHz N is 300 megabits with the AC connection going up to 580 according to my Wireless USB in Windows. I can still max out the connection most of the time but it does go down a bit whereas it wouldn't on AC, but it also stutered on AC as mentioned. Both the 2.4 GHz frequency and 5 GHz Wireless N connections seem to have no such connectivity issues. I'm in townhouses but there's no way anyone around here has Wirless AC, everyone is using their lovely ISP router on 2.4 GHz so interference can't possibly be it. I've also tried different firmwares. Currently using a Merlin build of the Asus firmware, DD WRT made it a lot worse so I removed it.
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Apr 17, 2015 02:56
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Does the issue only affect the one client or does it affect all of your wifi devices? Are there any N only devices, like a smartphone, that might be joining the network?
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Apr 17, 2015 03:25
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Antillie posted:Does the issue only affect the one client or does it affect all of your wifi devices? Are there any N only devices, like a smartphone, that might be joining the network? It's hard to tell because the only other devices connected to the 5 GHz network are four smart phones and a tablet, all of which are AC compatible (Galaxy S6, two Note 4 and a Tab S). The 2.4 network is being used by my girlfriend's desktop but it doesn't have any connectivity issues or stutters. I only really notice it on my personal desktop when using AC. I just swapped my router to N Only and the problem seems to have disappeared on my desktop but the internal speed is cut from 580 to 300 which isn't detrimental but pointless to have AC for
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Apr 17, 2015 03:36
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Since the only thing your desktop is really talking to is the internet I don't think its worth worrying about why the connection between the desktop and the router is 300 mbps instead of 580 mbps when the connection between the router and the internet is only 100 mbps. Raw speed and a bit of range are the only advantages AC has over N and if N is fast enough and the reception is good than AC is already pointless. You could try replacing the wifi adapter in your desktop, removing different wifi devices from the network, or replacing the router, but honestly, why bother when everything is working fine in N mode? Your girlfriend's 2.4ghz only desktop is probably bringing the entire 2.4ghz network down to N speeds anyway. It actually might be the source of the issue. But unless you need to move large files between it and your desktop over the wifi I don't think its worth spending money on a dual band AC adapter for it. Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 04:25
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I only really care because I spent the extra $20 on the AC version of the Asus router and an extra $20ish on the AC version of my WiFi USB adapter. You're right and it's perfectly serviceable, just wanted to see if I was missing something glaringly obvious. I'm perfectly fine with it as it is 
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Apr 17, 2015 04:27
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I would cut my losses at $40 and not worry about it. As you have discovered a 100 mbps wired uplink pairs perfectly with 300 mbps wireless N in practice. That's actually why the basic Unifi AP only has a 100 mbps ethernet port, it just doesn't need anything more than that. Honestly the difference between the advertised speeds of the various wifi standards and the speeds you actually get in real world usage is so great I'm surprised there hasn't been a lawsuit about it. Antillie fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 04:38
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Antillie posted:I don't know. But someone on the Ubiquiti Forums might. There are a number of Ubiquiti employees and some very knowledgeable Ubiquiti users who are quite active there Yeah I've been looking through the forums there. Cheers anyway!
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Apr 17, 2015 05:31
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