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Use pink/blue foam instead and carve the texture with a bic/biro. Or use coffee stir/Popsicle sticks and run a piece of sand paper over them once or twice (only go one direction, not back and forth) to bring out the grain.
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Apr 19, 2015 05:20
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A toothbrush brushed across epoxy putty does a decent job too in my opinion
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Apr 19, 2015 05:32
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Paint on the wood texture - it's easier than crafting a fully textured base (especially that carved sprue one). Otherwise have you thought about balsa wood or wooden popsicle sticks?
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Apr 19, 2015 11:07
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Z the IVth posted:Paint on the wood texture - it's easier than crafting a fully textured base (especially that carved sprue one). I usually use popsicle sticks but I just moved and I seem to have lost my basing stuff. So, I started cutting my Battle zone stuff from the sprue, saw how much plastic was left over and thought I'd try something different. I think I'm going to try the crazy texture thing that PyroDwarf posted but I'm probably going to get a basius pad as I've got at least a dozen other dudes that I'd like to have the same/similar basing but I want to be able to customize it a bit too
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Apr 19, 2015 19:21
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jodai posted:I usually use popsicle sticks but I just moved and I seem to have lost my basing stuff. One of my gaming friends recently moved, and he said one of the movers asked what he should do with a clear plastic box full of rubbish...and it was the ubiquitous collection of 'future terrain' every gamer has...so it could be missing, could have been tossed out by a well-meaning mover.
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Apr 19, 2015 19:29
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Speaking of popsicle sticks, what do you guys do to square up the ends? I tried clamping a bunch and attacking them with a cheap jigsaw but the blade moves from side to side and none come out right. E: oops, not the terrain thread. Its still topical, I guess.
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Apr 19, 2015 20:29
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run a razor knife over it repeatedly
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Apr 19, 2015 20:33
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mirthdefect posted:Speaking of popsicle sticks, what do you guys do to square up the ends? I tried clamping a bunch and attacking them with a cheap jigsaw but the blade moves from side to side and none come out right. Triangular file or a Jab Saw (the kind that take Sawsall blades).
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Apr 19, 2015 21:08
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sprue cutters and clean up the edge with a file/sandpaper.
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Apr 19, 2015 21:10
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I just finished up some Arbites I got back in 2008 or so. I wish there was more variety in the poses, but I absolutely love the models:       That said, I think I found the secret to actually enjoying painting black. I used The Fang and Fenrisian Grey on these (old Shadow Grey and Space Wolves Grey, respectively) and I really liked the coverage they had. I also feel like the models didn't end up too grey, as they often do when highlighting with typical greys. The blueish tint those two have was really good for these guys, and I think I'll highlight more black this way in the future.
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Apr 20, 2015 03:29
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SRM you are fighting the good fight.
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Apr 20, 2015 05:21
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An inspiration as always. I've recently been highlighting black with greys then glazing them back down with dark reds and purples. I like the effect. Of course I don't have any pictures.
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Apr 20, 2015 05:26
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Got some paint on my Grey Knight test model. Overdone it with the spray primer, so some details are a little soft. Painting grey with airbrush is loving amazing though, as is the Model-Air gold colour. Still got some details and shadingto do, but I'm feeling pretty good about doing a few squads of these, as both painting and modelling is relatively streamlined now:  His sword is going on the back of the backpack, in a servo arm mount thing.
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Apr 20, 2015 11:53
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I'm looking to create some banner poles for 28mm. What should I use? The cheaper the better.
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Apr 20, 2015 23:45
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Unzip and Attack posted:I'm looking to create some banner poles for 28mm. What should I use? The cheaper the better. BULBASUAR is your guy. He had a bunch for his iron warriors
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Apr 20, 2015 23:59
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Depending on how thick you want them, cocktail sticks or straightened paperclips may work and are pretty cheap. Brass rod is better but can be a bit pricy, though I did find some steel rods with a plastic coating a while back which were relatively cheap and sturdy (sadly the store that sold them closed down but you may be able to find similar somewhere).
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Apr 20, 2015 23:59
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I'd like them to be sturdy enough that they don't bend - I was thinking maybe long toothpicks but they're pretty expensive. Brass rod might work - any recommends for the gauge? I'd like it to look like a normal pike would look at 28mm.
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Apr 21, 2015 00:02
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Unzip and Attack posted:I'm looking to create some banner poles for 28mm. What should I use? The cheaper the better. http://www.partycity.com/product/8in+bamboo+skewers+100ct.do
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Apr 21, 2015 00:16
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Plasticard rod would work too, but I used a few different gages of brass rod. It’s practically indestructible.
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Apr 21, 2015 00:38
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Does anyone have pics of those kickin' rad bone and turquoise Dark Eldar that some goon painted a while back? They had pink accents and were gorgeous, particularly the Scourges. I didn't save them to my inspiration folder and now I can't find them.
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Apr 21, 2015 00:52
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Exactly what I'm looking for, thanks compadre.
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Apr 21, 2015 01:26
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Unzip and Attack posted:Exactly what I'm looking for, thanks compadre. No problem. They often can also be found at most dollar stores.
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Apr 21, 2015 15:34
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Those are probably way too fat. Brass rod is best. 1mm is about right for a small banner, 2mm for a larger one. Alternatively, buy a bulk pack of paperclips, use that.
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Apr 21, 2015 17:41
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thespaceinvader posted:Those are probably way too fat. Brass rod is best. 1mm is about right for a small banner, 2mm for a larger one. They are almost the exact same size as banner poles for a bunch of GW armies (maybe not elves). Paperclips are too thin and flimsy for most modeling applications. Buy a pack, if they don't work out make shish kebab. 
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Apr 21, 2015 17:49
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True, true. The big heavy-duty paperclips should do fine as banner poles, but brass rod should be the go-to I think.
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Apr 21, 2015 19:13
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So I'm assembling a metal warjack from Warmachine that has two leg bits that go into it's hip bit. The nubs on the leg bits are much, much smaller than the holes on the hip bit and holding the leg bits in place while waiting for glue to bond doesn't seem to be working. Is this a time to use green stuff? I've never used it before.
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Apr 22, 2015 01:37
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Omar al-Bishie posted:So I'm assembling a metal warjack from Warmachine that has two leg bits that go into it's hip bit. The nubs on the leg bits are much, much smaller than the holes on the hip bit and holding the leg bits in place while waiting for glue to bond doesn't seem to be working. Is this a time to use green stuff? I've never used it before. You'll probably want to pin them. Metal models, especially warjacks, have a notorious habit of exploding into pieces if they fall over or get bumped around--and in the case of a lot of the old metal 'jacks, they're pretty top-heavy too.
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Apr 22, 2015 01:44
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Tax refund arrived today, so I got me an airbrush setup!  It's on the cheap though, I went down to Harbor Freight and got one of those air compressors with a 3-gallon air tank (one of the ones that's loud as hell), some quick-release connectors, a moisture trap, a 20-foot "coil" hose, and one of their "spray gun"-type airbrushes (it's a single-action, siphon-feed airbrush, similar to a Badger 250 I believe) to use mainly for priming and basecoating. When I get paid later this week, I plan to get an ultrasonic cleaner (which will pull double duty as both an airbrush cleaner and stripping the last little remnants of paint from minis). And I will eventually get a higher-quality gravity-feed airbrush, but I just wanted something to get started with for now. I test-primed up one of my brother's Germans for Bolt Action with some Vallejo Surface Primer I had handy, and it was so nice to be able to prime without breathing nasty fumes (though I do have a mask) or shaking a rattle can for umpteen minutes. 
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Apr 22, 2015 02:08
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Tax refund arrived today, so I got me an airbrush setup! Wear a mask when you airbrush. A real one, with filters. If you wan't a cheap gravity dual action brush go get a Veda on eBay.
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Apr 22, 2015 02:31
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Wear a mask when you airbrush. A real one, with filters. If you wan't a cheap gravity dual action brush go get a Veda on eBay. Oh yeah, I have a 3M mask that has the filters and such, it's the one made specifically for spraying paint and/or pesticides (cost around $25 or so). I've also looked at various inexpensive gravity-feed airbrushes (Master, etc.) on eBay and Amazon, so I'll grab one of those before too long here.
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Apr 22, 2015 03:18
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Jooooooooooooooooan   
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Apr 22, 2015 04:04
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How long should I let greenstuff sit before I should expect it to be dry?
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Apr 22, 2015 04:11
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About an hour and a half, but closer to half a day for a full cure. I like to wait about 20-30min after mixing it before I use it. I like the consistency better.
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Apr 22, 2015 04:14
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Well dang. I tried using it as a way to hold the model's bits together and figured after fifteen minutes I did it wrong. Guess I'll let it sit overnight!
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Apr 22, 2015 04:19
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Omar al-Bishie posted:Well dang. I tried using it as a way to hold the model's bits together and figured after fifteen minutes I did it wrong. Guess I'll let it sit overnight! If its the only thing holding stuff together it won't hold, it'll just fall apart when it dries. It's great for adding strength to a glued join or filling in a gap around one, but it isn't itself adhesive at all when dry.
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Apr 22, 2015 04:21
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JoshTheStampede posted:If its the only thing holding stuff together it won't hold, it'll just fall apart when it dries. It's great for adding strength to a glued join or filling in a gap around one, but it isn't itself adhesive at all when dry. Oh whoops. Had just green stuff in a gap holding the bit in. Guess that's a bad idea!
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Apr 22, 2015 04:28
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JoshTheStampede posted:Jooooooooooooooooan That's really amazing. You really brought out a lot of personality in that model. Were you going to do another large bust anytime soon?
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Apr 22, 2015 04:44
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jodai posted:That's really amazing. You really brought out a lot of personality in that model. I want to, I just have to justify slapping down 50-100 bucks for a nice one when I have a ton of other awesome stuff to paint. I am really enjoying the new Infinity sculpts like this one, I have Relic Knights which are a different beast, and I want to try a chibi something or other. But yeah, I definitely want to do more large-scale stuff, it's a really interesting change of pace from 32mm all day. I keep seeing dwarf busts I want to paint, I really didn't know I had a thing for painting dwarves until I painted that last one.
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Apr 22, 2015 04:48
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JoshTheStampede posted:I want to, I just have to justify slapping down 50-100 bucks for a nice one when I have a ton of other awesome stuff to paint. I am really enjoying the new Infinity sculpts like this one, I have Relic Knights which are a different beast, and I want to try a chibi something or other. But yeah, I definitely want to do more large-scale stuff, it's a really interesting change of pace from 32mm all day. How has the Relic Knights stuff been going? I chose the actual knight faction, Shattered Swords, so most of my guys are in armor and helmets but I've heard the detail on the faces is really shallow. As far as chibi stuff, I played Arcadia Quest last week and I think those minis would be great fun to paint.
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Apr 22, 2015 04:56
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Omar al-Bishie posted:Oh whoops. Had just green stuff in a gap holding the bit in. Guess that's a bad idea! Yeah. Best way to use green stuff fo a solid joint is to drill in a pin in the joint, put super glue on both surfaces, add then put a tiny bit of green stuff in the middle. This is a useful tactic if you have to glue two heavy pieces to each other.
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Apr 22, 2015 08:27
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