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I recommend a good floody headlamp if you guys don't have one. I have a zebralight h51 that I use all the time, its way easier to grab and use than to set up my stationary worklight.
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Apr 11, 2015 15:48
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dyne posted:I recommend a good floody headlamp if you guys don't have one. I have a zebralight h51 that I use all the time, its way easier to grab and use than to set up my stationary worklight. Truth. I have a couple of really nice headlamps from Black Diamond and Petzl (  ), and those are my go-to for lighting 95% of the time.
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Apr 11, 2015 17:54
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I need to get a router, but I don't know what to buy. I am the type who likes to buy a tool once, and use it forever, and I'm not opposed to coughing up $300+ bucks if it means I get a router that I can use for pretty much anything I might ever want to do with it. Some advice I've found online says getting a kit with a fixed base and plunge base is a good idea, thoughts on that? Also I will eventually need a router table, but that can wait for a while. Recommendations?
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Apr 14, 2015 15:10
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Dewalt, Porter Cable, and Bosch are all great brands for that and have full-complement kits. Having both a fixed base and plunge base is great, as they meet very different needs. Whatever you get, just make sure it's not limited to just a 1/4" collet, you'll want that 1/2" collet before long. I think all proper routers in your price range will have that, though. For the router table, you can build that or buy it, but building a router table is super easy, and a good project to have if you like working on that sort of stuff. On the flip side, I bought a stand/surface and don't regret it, so it's really up to your preference. My one recommendation is, if you're going to have a table, actually get two routers, so you can leave one permanently installed. Of course, for the router table router, you don't need anything but a fixed base, as you just pull the plate off the base and then mount the base to either the table or the drop in insert. So for that, you can just look at bare-bones routers. Hitachi M12 is a very popular fixed-base router option, starts at $100 price point for jut the router and a fixed base, and you can often get it on sale for like $80. That router in particular is super popular with the CNC crowd because it's a solid product with the right fixin's for the right price. My current set is as follows: Dewalt 618 fixed/plunge kit for general use (comes with a D-handle as well now, I've heard favorable reviews of that.) That was about $300, I have zero complaints, I love it. Good power, good features on the plunge base, have never had any trouble or failures. Hitachi M12 in the CNC router, it's a 4x4 and the router can take everything I throw at it there with zero complaints, although it doesn't see as aggressive a load as the dewalt does. Old 80's era Porter Cable fixed base in the router table, inherited and can only take a 1/4" shank, but I use it mostly for finer work and it does great for that. If I was going to give an actual recommendation I'd say hey, go for the dewalt 618, it's a great kit and will do everything you need, for sure. But that's just because that's what I have personal experience with. I am equally certain you would be just as happy with an equivalent Bosch or Porter Cable kit. e: Also, I love my dewalt hardcases.
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Apr 14, 2015 15:25
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Thanks, this is quite helpful. Amazon has the 618 in a three handle kit for about $260 right now. Is there a good set of starter bit that you can recommend? Something high quality that I could use for dadoes and rabbets mostly, since that is what I'll be doing the most of. I don't need any profiles at this point.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:37
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armorer posted:Thanks, this is quite helpful. Amazon has the 618 in a three handle kit for about $260 right now. Is there a good set of starter bit that you can recommend? Something high quality that I could use for dadoes and rabbets mostly, since that is what I'll be doing the most of. I don't need any profiles at this point. This set is a pretty good way to get started.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:48
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Bits are an expendable resource, they're not something you buy once like the router. That being said, poo poo bits will go dull faster and be more likely to break, but just to get off the ground, head down to lowe's and grab one of those little multipack bundle kit things with an assortment of bits in it, that'll get you going, give you an idea of what you need, won't break the bank, and if you break a bit figuring stuff out, OH WELL.  The only time I spend good money on bits is when I need something special or have a specific purpose that I know I'll want a higher quality bit. For your normal rabbeting or roundover bits or what have you when you don't have a specific need in mind, cheaper stuff is fine.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:50
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Reasonable enough. Thanks!
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Apr 14, 2015 17:57
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Just out of curiosity (I do only the hackiest of woodworking), what's a reasonable SFM to shoot for when side cutting with a router (hardwood or soft)?
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Apr 14, 2015 18:50
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SFM? What does that mean?
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Apr 14, 2015 20:16
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It's either Sexy Fucks Per Minute Or Surface Feet per Minute
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Apr 14, 2015 21:03
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CharlieWhiskey posted:It's either Sexy Fucks Per Minute Or Surface Feet per Minute Oh yeah! The latter!
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Apr 15, 2015 00:09
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That depends on so much more than just the type of wood. For instance, the depth of cut, the diameter of the bit, the type of bit, the RPM you have the router set to, the actual hardness of the wood, how readily the wood burns...anyhow, I usually just go by feel, moving fast enough not to cause burning, but slow enough not to cause blowout. You can feel how much resistance the wood is giving as you cut through it, you figure out pretty quickly what's "right."
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Apr 15, 2015 00:12
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Bad Munki posted:That depends on so much more than just the type of wood. For instance, the depth of cut, the diameter of the bit, the type of bit, the RPM you have the router set to, the actual hardness of the wood, how readily the wood burns...anyhow, I usually just go by feel, moving fast enough not to cause burning, but slow enough not to cause blowout. You can feel how much resistance the wood is giving as you cut through it, you figure out pretty quickly what's "right." Also known as: you better have some scrap wood!
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Apr 15, 2015 15:47
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deimos posted:Also known as: you better have some scrap wood! Pretty much. Just keep a journal handy to write down speeds/feeds for each wood type, router bit, and depth of cut. Otherwise you get to rediscover them each time, which gets old fast.
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Apr 15, 2015 17:37
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:Pretty much. Just keep a journal handy to write down speeds/feeds for each wood type, router bit, and depth of cut. Otherwise you get to rediscover them each time, which gets old fast. Huh. It seems like someone would have done that already 
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Apr 15, 2015 19:50
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King of Gulps posted:Huh. It seems like someone would have done that already Each machine and job setup is unique in how hard you can push it without poo poo going pear shaped. The rigidity of the workpiece setup, the clamping used, the type and size of the endmill or router bit, and the machine itself can make a huge difference in the final product. A lovely little Dremel powered Shapeoko with a 1/8" bit doing 15k rpm will be way slower and less rigid than a bigass all steel CNC wood router with a 2 HP 1/2" chuck router. Same way a CNC conversion of a bridgeport isn't in the same class as a Haas or Fadal machine. Technically they can both do the same thing as long as you keep the speed and feed within the capabilities of the slower machine, but the end result will be loads different if you're trying anything but the most conservative of cuts. There are a number of free tools online, and a few pretty cheap paid tools that will take your machine rigidity, spindle power, workpiece clamping and endmill type into account and calculate a good set of starting speeds and feeds to try. G-Wizard is generally considered the go to source for most of this stuff, and once you get your machine parameters set up, it tends to be pretty nice.
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Apr 15, 2015 20:23
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Woot has an 8" slow speed grinder for $49.99. Cheap brand but also a very cheap price. Amazon reviews aren't too bad. http://tools.woot.com/offers/8-inch-slow-speed-bench-grinder-9
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Apr 16, 2015 19:06
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I got a free iron bench vise from my brother in law this weekend. It's from Littlestown Hardware and Foundry, and seems pretty hearty. Unfortunately, it's spent the last year sitting in his back yard getting rained on, and has a bit of rust. What would be the best way to go about cleaning it up? Sand paper? Maybe a dremel, followed by repainting it? Or should I just call it character and move on to other projects, like building a work bench to mount it on?  
Hayden fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 05:50
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Hayden posted:I got a free iron bench vise from my brother in law this weekend. It's from Littlestown Hardware and Foundry, and seems pretty hearty. Unfortunately, it's spent the last year sitting in his back yard getting rained on, and has a bit of rust. I'm lazy so I use electrolysis. Or you could dump it in a barrel of molasses. Depends on how lazy you are and how quickly you need it up and running.
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Apr 20, 2015 12:31
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Home Depot has a solid deal on a 12v Makita drill/driver combo for $109. I picked this set up 2 black friday's ago for $99, this is the closest I've seen it sense. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-1...1210757&cj=true These are really nice little drivers and they come in a pretty cool metal case. Probably best for someone who is just looking to get their first driver set or doesnt have any 12v yet. Makita doenst have a huge breadth of 12v tools in their lineup, but what they do have is very well made.
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Apr 20, 2015 15:09
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Hayden posted:I got a free iron bench vise from my brother in law this weekend. It's from Littlestown Hardware and Foundry, and seems pretty hearty. Unfortunately, it's spent the last year sitting in his back yard getting rained on, and has a bit of rust. Your timg links are missing the .jpg The best way would be disassembling as much as possible and media blasting it down to bare metal, then repainting. Next best is probably going after it with a wire wheel in a bench grinder and a smaller wheel in a drill for the hard to reach spots. You can knock off the rusty spots on the painted sections that way but I wouldn't bother trying to take all the paint off. Sandpaper works too if you only care about getting the main surfaces cleaned up so you can use it rather than the aesthetics.
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Apr 20, 2015 15:56
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armorer posted:I need to get a router, but I don't know what to buy. I am the type who likes to buy a tool once, and use it forever, and I'm not opposed to coughing up $300+ bucks if it means I get a router that I can use for pretty much anything I might ever want to do with it. Some advice I've found online says getting a kit with a fixed base and plunge base is a good idea, thoughts on that? Also I will eventually need a router table, but that can wait for a while. Recommendations? I have this router and its been great for over 6 months now - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD I've spent more on bits, though, and my local hardware store has buy ten get one free router bit cards 
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Apr 20, 2015 17:46
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Suggestions for a corded hammer drill that's reasonable priced? HD has the $50 Ryobi, but reviews say it has problems with old concrete and I need to be drilling holes in concrete that's potentially 50+ years old.
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Apr 21, 2015 04:13
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Is there a specific name for this style of toolbox?
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Apr 21, 2015 05:08
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stubblyhead posted:Is there a specific name for this style of toolbox? Try carpenter tool box or tote.
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Apr 21, 2015 08:02
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stubblyhead posted:Is there a specific name for this style of toolbox? I know you didn't ask for it, but I like the projects in Popular Mechanics, and a few months ago they had plans for some variations on this type of toolbox. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/a10548/the-toolbox-reinvented-build-this-update-on-a-classic-16814535/
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Apr 21, 2015 14:26
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Hayden posted:I got a free iron bench vise from my brother in law this weekend. It's from Littlestown Hardware and Foundry, and seems pretty hearty. Unfortunately, it's spent the last year sitting in his back yard getting rained on, and has a bit of rust. Take it apart, wire brush it and go at it with some naval jelly. Then go for the more aggressive physical removal.
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Apr 21, 2015 16:09
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stubblyhead posted:Is there a specific name for this style of toolbox? This guy builds one using Paul seller's plans I think. It looks pretty decent https://youtu.be/h62RjdlT7k0
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Apr 22, 2015 01:51
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That mechanics tool tote by PM is pretty cool. I can see myself using that. Also like this dovetailed tool tote by American Woodworker. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-53013-dovetailed-tool-box
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Apr 22, 2015 02:45
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Laminator posted:Suggestions for a corded hammer drill that's reasonable priced? HD has the $50 Ryobi, but reviews say it has problems with old concrete and I need to be drilling holes in concrete that's potentially 50+ years old. A cheap SDS drill might be a better idea. Drill the holes you need and then if it dies so much the better so you can take it back for a refund.
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Apr 22, 2015 03:27
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If you need a lot of grass cleared quickly and can choose to use either the British scythe champion or a gas trimmer, pick the scythe guy every time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsfIHiBB6xE
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Apr 22, 2015 07:04
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canyoneer posted:If you need a lot of grass cleared quickly and can choose to use either the British scythe champion or a gas trimmer, pick the scythe guy every time. I've cleared an acre of dead brush with a weed whacker and I was wishing I had a scythe. It was the shittiest gas powered line cutter ever made though, so that didn't help.
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Apr 22, 2015 16:43
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canyoneer posted:If you need a lot of grass cleared quickly and can choose to use either the British scythe champion or a gas trimmer, pick the scythe guy every time. That is pretty impressive but how does he compare to a lawn tractor? I still like my push mower and battery powered electric Does the scythe cut on the back stroke? I'm assuming that it does not cut on the back stroke due to the curve of the blade.
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Apr 22, 2015 17:44
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Crotch Fruit posted:That is pretty impressive but how does he compare to a lawn tractor? I still like my push mower and battery powered electric Scythe still does pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1I4RNenmfFI
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Apr 22, 2015 17:47
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Crotch Fruit posted:That is pretty impressive but how does he compare to a lawn tractor? I still like my push mower and battery powered electric Nope, doesn't cut on the back stroke. It also requires you to look like an extra from the movie 300. That twisting motion gives you abs of a greek god, but will murderize your back in doing so.
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Apr 22, 2015 17:47
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We used a scythe as a general lawn mowing implement in France. We were up in the mountains so not only is a push mower tough to use, but the gas to run it was pricey so just about everyone used the good old scythe. I remember the old coot next door (in his 70s or so?) just walking along swinging it like it was no big deal, smoking the whole time. Once you get a rhythm going, it's sort of zen. I stuck it hard in the ground a bunch and whanged it off of the hidden rocks in the tall stuff so I also got to sharpen it a few times.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:03
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I grew up on a farm and had to walk the electric fence line once a week (which took a couple days) with a scythe, mowing weeds and removing any dead tangled owls. The proper stance, movement, and rhythm make scythes efficient and fairly fast.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:19
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Old tools like scythes are really interesting to me. It's neat to think that many thousands of my ancestors could probably swing a scythe like nobody's business. Then there's me, using a laptop to earn my living
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Apr 22, 2015 19:40
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An impossibly dumb and also embarassing question: what kind of bits do I use with this - http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=2,20&p=685 - and what do I use it for? I also have this guy - http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=2,20&p=677, and I kind of know how to use that.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:53
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