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veedubfreak posted:You can actually repair that? Yeah, I brought it over to the guy and he says he'll basically just sand it down, fill that part of the chainstay with expanding foam, and wrap a couple of sheets of carbon over it. You can repair much worse apparently, and a new frame through Kona's crash replacement program is $800, so I'll give the $150 patch a shot.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:58
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Customer came in a few days ago and wanted us to check over and change oil on a 2004 F-150 he had just bought from a body shop. Took it for a test drive and it stalled at a red light after turning on the A/C. Got it started again and back to the shop. Check out the battery and it's toast. Put it up on the lift and pull the wheels off and Is that a....  yup Then I look at the other side   I look up and notice the bed is basically levitating over the frame rails   Chunks of the frame were flaking off and made that dull thud when tapped on  Checking out the front suspension got me 2 broken coil springs   Not pictured is the orange peeled to hell paint job over obvious rust pitting by aforementioned "body shop" To top it all off it had a very recent VA safety inspection sticker.
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Apr 22, 2015 23:00
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Argenteus posted:Rust Wow. If you hadn't said 2004 I would think that is a truck that has been parked outside in a field of tall grass (in the rust belt) for 50 years. Does it rain saltwater in VA? If that "body shop" hasn't packed up their gypsy wagons and moved on he should drive the truck through their front door.
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Apr 22, 2015 23:27
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InitialDave posted:Don't forget the "This is a very complex assembly and not suitable for DIY rebuilding so we ain't telling you poo poo". What gets me is how they try to squeeze it all the instructions for a modern car in a single book the same thickness as the first edition. Despite the fact that the modern car has more parts in just its heating system than that early car had in its entire engine bay. Everytime I open one and try to follow the paragraphs across multiple chapters, I ask 'why don't you put this on a CD-ROM and use as many words/colour pictures as you need? Instead of this "choose your ownj adventure" bullshit' These days, it's youtube first and forums second.
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Apr 22, 2015 23:33
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Give me a list of tolerances/torque specs and I'll sort myself out. *Hunts down factory manual on Ebay instead.*
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I remember either Chiltons or Haynes giving me one of the first mental Hitchcockian violin trills I'd ever truly run into on flipping open the manual for my D50, flipped to the starter section, and saw "Step one: Refer to Engine Removal procedures as detailed in chapter 3."
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Apr 23, 2015 02:20
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:I remember either Chiltons or Haynes giving me one of the first mental Hitchcockian violin trills I'd ever truly run into on flipping open the manual for my D50, flipped to the starter section, and saw "Step one: Refer to Engine Removal procedures as detailed in chapter 3." Ugggh. I think it was one of those that told me to pull the tensioner piston's pin before I got the timing belt completely on. Putting that thing in place was such a pain in the rear end. I remember just throwing the book in the garbage and going to AllData or whatever that site was called.
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Apr 23, 2015 02:31
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:I remember either Chiltons or Haynes giving me one of the first mental Hitchcockian violin trills I'd ever truly run into on flipping open the manual for my D50, flipped to the starter section, and saw "Step one: Refer to Engine Removal procedures as detailed in chapter 3." http://i.imgur.com/XBqQEGq.jpg
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Apr 23, 2015 02:46
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:I remember either Chiltons or Haynes giving me one of the first mental Hitchcockian violin trills I'd ever truly run into on flipping open the manual for my D50, flipped to the starter section, and saw "Step one: Refer to Engine Removal procedures as detailed in chapter 3." Stupidest thing I ran across was while replacing a water pump in a 93 Taurus with the same 3.8L that powered the Mustang and T-bird. It was a torquey fucker, but gently caress every maintenance task on that thing. Anyway, there's about a 1/4" between the pump pulley and the fender. You can't even get the PULLEY off, forget about the pump. No mention of clearance issues, or the fix (lift the engine 4" or so off its mounts).
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Apr 23, 2015 04:12
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Found in the scootinfruit thread in PYFCarbon dioxide posted:This Schaden will probably give Freude to someone, somewhere. canyoneer posted:If you look closely, you can see a fancy little aristocrat toad running away
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Apr 23, 2015 04:25
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Gorson posted:Wow. If you hadn't said 2004 I would think that is a truck that has been parked outside in a field of tall grass (in the rust belt) for 50 years. Does it rain saltwater in VA? If that "body shop" hasn't packed up their gypsy wagons and moved on he should drive the truck through their front door. Was it originally from Philadelphia, by any chance? 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 04:42
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Argenteus posted:Customer came in a few days ago and wanted us to check over and change oil on a 2004 F-150 he had just bought from a body shop.  That is impressive even by Canadian standards. There's 2004 F150's up here that have been through winters since and washed once a year that are in better shape than that.
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Apr 23, 2015 05:57
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8ender posted:
I'm not an expert but if I had to guess my hypothesis is flood damage.
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Apr 23, 2015 10:29
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From VA? I bet it was driven on the beach, through saltwater, etc and never washed.
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Apr 23, 2015 12:37
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Yeah that f 150 is pretty standard for a Chicago work truck since they never get cleaned. I work on plow trucks that are older and in better shape. Except thanks to the plow most of the old chevys have there frames starting to crack.
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Apr 23, 2015 14:30
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Argenteus posted:rust. Ha, I scrolled past the text initially and guessed 2004. A kid I work with had one and it was exactly the same wrt the bed barely being on and the frame under it flaking off 2" chunks. They salt the poo poo out of the roads here (NJ) in the winter with all the snow we've been getting.
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Apr 23, 2015 16:39
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A 2004 truck is almost 12 years old now, guys. If you gradutated in 2002, a similar age truck in the year you graduated would be a 1990. That said, i have an 06 f-150 that's lived somewhere they salt the roads all winter it's entire life, and the underside is faaaaaar nicer than that.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:00
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Powershift posted:A 2004 truck is almost 12 years old now, guys. If you gradutated in 2002, a similar age truck in the year you graduated would be a 1990. I feel old now. PS: OBD-2 is old enough to drink in two years.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:05
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kastein posted:I feel old now. Futurama is old enough to get a drivers license.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:07
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jammyozzy posted:Haynes' wheel bearing preload spec for my old Polo/Ibiza is: To be fair, I think that might be Peugeot. Whenever we needed parts for my wife's Partner (it's an MPV you dicks) it was like "which one of the 57 alternative fitments listed for a 2.0HDi Partner was this vehicle actually fitted with?"
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Apr 23, 2015 17:08
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Powershift posted:A 2004 truck is almost 12 years old now, guys. If you gradutated in 2002, a similar age truck in the year you graduated would be a 1990. Our 06 F250 needs the bed pulled and one of the cross braces replaced. going to paint the bed and frame while it's off. At least the rest of the truck is in good condition.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:43
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the f-250 frame is designed to flex more, the frame paint really isn't. i replaced the bed on one of those, the bolts are are i think T35 torx heads. if the frame is rusty, you'll snap any bits or torx keys you have trying to get it off. Use tools with a warranty, or just say gently caress it, buy new bolts($6 a piece), and cut the old ones off with a grinder.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:51
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Powershift posted:Futurama is old enough to get a drivers license. Still needs a fake ID to rent ultra porn though
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Apr 23, 2015 18:23
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Powershift posted:just say gently caress it, buy new bolts($6 a piece), and cut the old ones off with a grinder. That's how I roll.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:23
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Whenever I finally get around to putting my bug together, Airkewld sells a full kit with all stainless steel bolts/fasteners. Rust can go to hell. Speaking of rust. I need suggestions for a battery powered saw of some sort so I can cut out a B pillar from a junk yard for the lower 12" inches of my bug.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:41
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When soaked in wet road salt, stainless steel will eat out the bolt hole it's threaded into. Rust doesn't go to hell, it just finds new, interesting ways to piss you off.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:45
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Powershift posted:When soaked in wet road salt, stainless steel will eat out the bolt hole it's threaded into. Rust doesn't go to hell, it just finds new, interesting ways to piss you off. Luckily they no longer salt the roads here, and the car will never see rain anyway, much less snow.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:34
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Powershift posted:the f-250 frame is designed to flex more, the frame paint really isn't. When I did the frame patching on my dad's Ranger this happened. 5 came out nicely with a lot of anger and a 3/4" HF breaker bar, the last one was a bitch and I ended up grinding the head off. Put all new clip nuts and bolts in for 40 bucks and never looked back. At least they didn't make anything with threads a permanent part of the vehicle, so you can just go hog wild with the grinder and solve the problem with money instead of trying to drill out broken bolts and rethread or helicoil wallowed out holes after the drill walks off center.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:13
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kastein posted:When I did the frame patching on my dad's Ranger this happened. 5 came out nicely with a lot of anger and a 3/4" HF breaker bar, the last one was a bitch and I ended up grinding the head off. yeah, and the clip nuts are basically single use only as well. unless you feel like gettin somebody with 4 foot long arms to get a wrench on the back side of those shits.
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Apr 23, 2015 21:21
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Gorson posted:Wow. If you hadn't said 2004 I would think that is a truck that has been parked outside in a field of tall grass (in the rust belt) for 50 years. Does it rain saltwater in VA? If that "body shop" hasn't packed up their gypsy wagons and moved on he should drive the truck through their front door. You know what trucks are awesome to work on? Plow trucks. No fucks given and fixed only when poo poo is completely tits up as cheaply as possible. Dont know how many roll into our shop with completely rusted/busted shackles where the spring is only supported by the bed. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 03:02
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Yeah, the plow truck I bought for its engine/transmission was so far gone that the frame rails could be seen through. In fact I put a steeltoe boot through the side of one of them by kicking it halfheartedly. The bed came off in 30 seconds, I picked it up because it wasn't attached anymore. The frame rails (C channel) were each rotted entirely through on one top/bottom face and most of the way through on the vertical faces. The only reason the drat thing held together at all was because the weight of the plow hanging on the front kept it from folding in half. The rear half of the truck and the front half were basically flying in close formation, the bed smashed into the back of the cab when the plow was dropped but they barely hit each other at all when it was lifted. Still plowed my road a couple times with it before cutting it up.
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Apr 24, 2015 03:08
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Powershift posted:Futurama is old enough to get a drivers license. I just went drinking with a person who has never lived in a world without Jurassic Park or Playstation.
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Apr 24, 2015 03:26
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veedubfreak posted:Whenever I finally get around to putting my bug together, Airkewld sells a full kit with all stainless steel bolts/fasteners. Rust can go to hell. M12 Hackzall with the metal blade and 2 spare batteries (a napkin estimate) or M18 angle grinder with 1 spare battery (probably won't need it but better safe than sorry).
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Apr 24, 2015 04:23
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veedubfreak posted:a full kit with all stainless steel bolts/fasteners Tell me this is a different stainless than is used in commercial dishwashers. Because (at a previous job, working for a metal scrapper) the last time I tried to disassemble a pile of scrapped commercial dishwashers, the loving stainless steel bolts chemically welded themselves together, and I put a serious bend in a 36" breakover handle trying (unsuccessfully) to undo them. Success only came after heating the bolts red-hot and shearing them with a cold chisel. A complete bitch of a job, but the stainless was worth about $3.50/lb at the time. I could probably do an Ask/Tell over working for a metal scrapper. [ASK] me about violating EPA guidelines by burning insulation off of copper wire, or the month I spent salvaging aluminum and copper out of a pile of ancient computers bought at a school sale for $1, or the shitstorm we kicked off by accidentally hauling something radioactive into a recycling center!
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Apr 24, 2015 07:07
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That last one sounds interesting
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Apr 24, 2015 07:13
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:That last one sounds interesting Old smoke detectors are radioactive. It's a legit job being in charge of those loving things. Americium source, iirc. Iirc autocorrects to Kiev, which I find funny.
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Apr 24, 2015 07:16
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iwentdoodie posted:Old smoke detectors are radioactive. It's a legit job being in charge of those loving things. Americium source, iirc.
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Apr 24, 2015 14:23
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iwentdoodie posted:Old smoke detectors are radioactive. It's a legit job being in charge of those loving things. Americium source, iirc. MOST smoke detectors are STILL radioactive, unless you have one using a photodiode instead. I have a few Americium samples from smoke detectors, they make for good calibration samples. But all the ones in my house are still Americium powered.
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Apr 24, 2015 16:14
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After the owner of the scrapyard came out, and the lady in the office stopped having hysterics, and we backed the trailer out of the yard, the owner busted out a Geiger counter and started checking our load. Turns out there were a couple of sections of box tubing cut off of an old rusty plow that had something mildly radioactive in them, just barely enough to start the automated alarm on the weigh scale. No clue what the radioactive substance was, or how it wound up in a plow we dug out of the ground and cut up for scrap. We tossed them off outside of the scrapyard, pulled the load through and sold it, then (under supervision of the owner) picked the radioactive bits back up and hauled them home. Apparently, the rules for radioactive substances at scrapyards are really super strict (not a surprise), and the office lady had taken classes or somesuch that pressed on the major legal consequences for accepting radioactive scrap yet had never actually accepted something radioactive before. She pretty much went into a panic attack, started spewing things like "Get this poo poo off the scrapyard NOW" and "I'm calling the police!" and "We're never doing business with you again!". My boss had done business with the owner of the scrapyard for better than two decades, so he made a quick phone call, and the owner came out on his day off to settle things down and made everything right. The office lady had indeed called the police, so about the time we're picking up the radioactive bits to haul home, a county deputy shows up, confused as hell about what's going on. The owner blew some smoke up his rear end, and we went home. We still did business with that scrapyard, but the office lady never had another thing to say to us except "Here's your money". And six sections of radioactive box tubing wound up in various ditches on the drive home. tl;dr: didn't really have a problem other than a 30 min. wait for the owner, but holy poo poo did we scare the gently caress out of a 50-year-old woman. e. Just looked up the regulations. The lady was in the right about calling the police, the load is supposed to be isolated and the driver detained until a rep from the EPA shows up. rndmnmbr fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 17:17
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So out of curiosity, what would be the correct way to dispose of something that turns out to be radioactive?
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Apr 24, 2015 17:26
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Collateral Damage posted:So out of curiosity, what would be the correct way to dispose of something that turns out to be radioactive? For the average joe that finds a radioactive chunk of something in a ditch? No loving clue. For businesses that deal with radioactive crap? They need to have management and disposal plans on file. I don't know what the legal requirements are but at least in the good neighbor sense it's just the cost of doing business. My employer produces a bit of radioactive scrap, but we have a 6800 acre site and they sectioned off a chunk of it for storage. The low level stuff is allowed to bake out in the sun until there's enough of it worth organizing transportation to a disposal facility, the nastier stuff gets entombed and shipped offsite via the same mechanism. Nothing here is super hot though.. no millenium scale half-lifes.
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Apr 24, 2015 17:38
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