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It's the Zeta Gundam, but edgier. And by that I mean it literally has more edges.
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Apr 23, 2015 00:25
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The Dom R-35 needs more thrusters on it.
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Apr 23, 2015 00:39
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I have the same problem with the Montero, it's a nice design, just hidden by the . . . blueness. Strangely I think the Kampfer and the Gouf look fine in all blue, probably because both of those have a very strong silhouette and don't need extra colors to make them pop. In the spirit of competitiveness, my brother went and made his own Leo head and is having it printed. While I scoff mightily at the lack of inner frame, filthy partsforming visor, and the most egregious sin of all, a neck joint, it'll be nice to see the real world quality of the print service I will eventually be using.  He made two slightly different versions. The sprue is just there to save money (counts as one part instead of 16 or whatever), don't ask me why he put them where he did. Hopefully with the resin they use, they'll snap off pretty cleanly. It cost about $15 to print at the crazy new resolution they have.
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Apr 23, 2015 00:55
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Eh, I think the tan bits on the Montero (and, to a lesser extent, the black and white shoulders) do a good enough job of breaking up the blue. The Dom R35, meanwhile, is just a solid blue brick, and the black and white bits blend in rather than popping out. The Mega Shiki has this problem too, though to a slightly less extreme extent.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:03
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Darth Walrus posted:Eh, I think the tan bits on the Montero (and, to a lesser extent, the black and white shoulders) do a good enough job of breaking up the blue. The Dom R35, meanwhile, is just a solid blue brick, and the black and white bits blend in rather than popping out. The Mega Shiki has this problem too, though to a slightly less extreme extent. I'd consider the Mega Shiki way worse on the monocolor front. G-Arcane is kinda bad for it, too. Dom R35 doesn't look that bad to me, but that's mainly because the Gouf R35 looks fine.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:08
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Ugh, I don't like the tan on the Montero either, it's like they just alternated from one color to the other as they went up the suit. The lineart reminds me strongly of an unpainted, two color no grade kit. I think the G-Arcane suffers from a similar effect, though not as badly.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:17
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Xy Hapu posted:I have the same problem with the Montero, it's a nice design, just hidden by the . . . blueness. Strangely I think the Kampfer and the Gouf look fine in all blue, probably because both of those have a very strong silhouette and don't need extra colors to make them pop. This is really interesting and I look forward to seeing more projects like this.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:43
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I'd definitely be interested in seeing what the finished thing looks like.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:43
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Unless it's some really soft resin, chances are pretty good it's not going to snap off. Hope you have a plastic saw handy!
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Apr 23, 2015 02:06
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I'm going to wait before judging the new Dom, because it looks like, from that poo poo quality pic that it's actually two different shades of blue.
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Apr 23, 2015 02:14
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:I'm going to wait before judging the new Dom, because it looks like, from that poo poo quality pic that it's actually two different shades of blue. It's definitely two shades of blue. The problem is that it really needs a third accent color to break up all the blue.
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Apr 23, 2015 02:17
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the cool thing about model kits is painting them
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Apr 23, 2015 02:38
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Dom R35 is going to look great in original Dom colors.
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Apr 23, 2015 02:58
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I was talking about EVOLVE with a friend when I remembered that the RX-78-2 got a "modern" redesign in the 15th OVA. Out of curiosity I went to check it out and you know what, to me it actually looks like it'd fit in to G-Reco just fine.
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Apr 23, 2015 03:25
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Welp. gently caress. A really unfortunate mistake on my part has left me needing a new I-1 21 for my MG Tallgeese III. Approximately how hosed am I if I want a replacement piece/runner, given that's one of the parts added for the web exclusive?
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Apr 23, 2015 06:29
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On a scale of 1 to 10? 9900.
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Apr 23, 2015 06:35
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Phew, I figured it'd be higher.  I guess it's time to ruin one of my test kits and practice how to cement really loving well. Maybe try a hand at using putty, too. I'll come begging for help with something in a few days. 
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Apr 23, 2015 06:40
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That's rotten luck. What happened exactly? Can we get a photo of the victim?
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Apr 23, 2015 08:54
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TaurusOxford posted:It's definitely two shades of blue. The problem is that it really needs a third accent color to break up all the blue. Thinking a nice bright yellow or (more) white, or some combination. It will be the MS of 
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Apr 23, 2015 17:16
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BlitzBlast posted:I was talking about EVOLVE with a friend when I remembered that the RX-78-2 got a "modern" redesign in the 15th OVA. Out of curiosity I went to check it out and It doesn't look anything like a Gyobu design.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:41
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His aesthetic is all clean shapes with overall rounded forms and distinct silhouettes for each design, no shared composition.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:43
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It looks more like something from SEED or 00.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:43
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:It looks more like something from SEED or 00. Yeah the tons of surface detail is more in that vein of design.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:44
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:It looks more like something from SEED or 00. The funky knee armor says 00 to me.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:48
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Bimmi posted:That's rotten luck. What happened exactly? Can we get a photo of the victim? Having slept on it, it's a lot less rotten luck and a lot more lack of care. It came down to me using way, way, way too much force to try and reposition the rifle after it slipped out of place and not really understanding where that force was going. One of the joints the rifle sits on had turned, so I was pretty much pushing at nothing, and something had to give and welp  Straight up my fault. It's a really painful wakeup call and I wish it had been on almost any other kit, but a really good learning experience.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:53
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Oh, that's not bad at all. Don't bother cementing it if it's supposed to take pressure, just superglue it then sand off excess.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:02
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Zwingley posted:Having slept on it, it's a lot less rotten luck and a lot more lack of care. It came down to me using way, way, way too much force to try and reposition the rifle after it slipped out of place and not really understanding where that force was going. One of the joints the rifle sits on had turned, so I was pretty much pushing at nothing, and something had to give and welp That doesn't really look like anything superglue or epoxy won't fix. Especially if you pin it.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:04
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Do not use superglue. It has extremely poor shear strength and is not made to handle the kind of stresses that part will take. Epoxy might work but I personally wouldn't use it for something that small. Liquid cement will work fine as long as everything is aligned properly, the join is tight and you give several days to cure. It will never be quite as strong as it was originally, though
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Apr 23, 2015 18:12
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Thanks guys.  e: oh God conflicting opinions what do I do
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Apr 23, 2015 18:14
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Again, superglue does not withstand pressure at all relative to its bond strength. It is mainly for gluing flat surfaces to other flat surfaces, or small parts that won't be subjected to any sort of stress or twisting force. This is not opinion. Personally I dislike using it for models at all, thanks to its many obnoxious qualities, but it does have its place from time to time. Just not for this sort of thing.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:20
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I feel like it depends on what glue you're using? A friend of mine introduced me to this and it's way sturdier than any kind of glue I was using before. Really handy for tightening up joints too. Cement would work too (it looks like that snapped really cleanly), but I feel like unless you go balls out crazy on the piece superglue should be fine. Then again I dunno what kind of glue Zwingley has, so maybe he should just stick to cement after all.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:26
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I'm gonna need to buy something new for this regardless; I have some Testor's plastic cement right now, but I don't trust the metal applicator for this in the least. The break is really clean and when pressed together everything lines up about as well as I could hope for.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:33
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It's true that there are a lot of different CA formulations out there. Some are made to be more flexible and might do better with shear stress than your standard Zap-A-Gap or what have you. Still and all, it's not what I'd use. It's surprisingly hard to get a good bond with CA glue if the surfaces being joined don't fit perfectly flush, and if you gently caress up you can't just add more glue - you have to remove it all with CA debonder, which is nasty stuff and not especially plastic-friendly. It also dries harder than plastic, which makes sanding it a pain in the rear end. I really do prefer using model cement for repairs on small parts and breaks with a thin cross-section; a good plastic weld is almost always going to be superior to an adhesive in such cases.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:40
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Zwingley posted:I'm gonna need to buy something new for this regardless; I have some Testor's plastic cement right now, but I don't trust the metal applicator for this in the least. The break is really clean and when pressed together everything lines up about as well as I could hope for. If all you have is Testors, you really should pick up some Tamiya plastic cement.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:41
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BlitzBlast posted:If all you have is Testors, you really should pick up some Tamiya plastic cement. That stuff is on the way from Amazon as we post.  But there's no way I'm skimping on effort for fixing this piece and as well as I can, short of giving it over to someone for them to make a resin mold of it or something. So lay all the knowledge on me. The odds of me doing this again in the future are pretty drat high, regardless of how careful I am.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:47
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Yeah. Tamiya's good stuff. I'd recommend the regular type over Extra Thin, which is really more of a specialty-application sort of thing. Personally, I prefer Gunze Sangyo Mr. Cement Deluxe, which has a fairly thick consistency: I feel it does a better job of melting the plastic and thus enabling seam-free, super-tough joins. It can take quite a bit more time to cure than standard thin cements, though — leaving parts to sit for a week is not too long in my book.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:47
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Bimmi posted:Yeah. Tamiya's good stuff. I'd recommend the regular type over Extra Thin, which is really more of a specialty-application sort of thing. This stuff? And for my own edification, Gunze Sangyo just refers to the "Mr. Color/Hobby/Cement/etc." stuff, right?
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Apr 23, 2015 18:54
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Yes and yes. Actually I have four different types of liquid cement at hand, and they're all good for slightly different things. Except maybe the Testors, I'm not even sure why I have that.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:59
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Looks like it'd be a pretty easy fix. Do you have a pin vise? Might be able to drill a hole into the pieces and pin them together as well. Unlike the elbows on the HGUC Messala. 
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Apr 23, 2015 19:14
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And since no-one has posted it yet: — next HG Revive is the Freedom. Did not see that one coming. — MG Turn A is getting a P-Bandai Moonlight Butterfly edition, with the effect part also being sold separately. — There's finally going to be a 1/100 Mega Bazooka Launcher, but it too will be an online exclusive. Fuckin' brilliant. e: Mecha Gojira posted:Looks like it'd be a pretty easy fix. Do you have a pin vise? Might be able to drill a hole into the pieces and pin them together as well. Wouldn't try it on a part that small. You very well might further ruin the break surfaces, and the cross-section is so thin that you couldn't pin it with anything particularly rigid, so no real point. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 19:14
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