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ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Triangulum posted:

If you want to take a class on recalls Susan Garrett's recallers course is p much the gold standard but it's pretty pricey. The Fenzi Dog Sport Academy's Raising a Performance Puppy focuses primarily on attention building, engagement, and recalls and is quite affordable.

If you've got a dog who's into toys or fetch, consider using that as your recall reward. It tends to produce a much faster, more reliable recall than food rewards.

Thanks, although I got a local(ish) trainer I was going to use for the recall class :).
She's a Great Dane. She'll play fetch for about 5 throws before getting bored, although she will play tug until the cows go home. (And yes, I do try to mix up the fetch and tug game to keep the toy interesting).

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Mathematics
Jun 22, 2011

Aquatic Giraffe posted:

I got a backpack for my dog for the same reason but he just gets upset and confused when I put it on him.

A good way to tire out a dog is to mix mental and physical exercise. For instance I'll throw the ball, then make him do something he has to think about before I'll throw it again like having him put it down in a certain spot before I'll pick it up again or sending him through his weave poles.


The only problem with trying to stimulate her mentally is she's not food motivated at all.

Even the shelter noted that she's not really into food. She just naturally eats what she needs to stay alive and isn't crazy about anything else.

So I'm not really sure how I can make her think. I put her food in a kong mixed with PB and she picked at it but wasn't really interested.

She's been checked by a vet and she's fine.

Any non-food and apartment friendly ideas for mental stimulation?

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
One of my dog isn't food motivated either, it's a pain in the rear end but you can definitely work with it.. What does she like? Toys? Sniffing? Chasing? You can use pretty much anything your dog likes to train her if you're creative. It's definitely more challenging working with a dog who doesn't care about food but it's doable and boy will it improve your training skills. My boy's psychotic about balls so I train him with that instead of treats most of the time. He also likes peeing on things, chase games, and rough housing with me so we use those as training rewards a lot. There are also ways to increase the dog's food drive to the point where they will willingly work for food but it's an extremely slow process so you'll need to figure out some way to motivate her in the interim.

Training is pretty much the best indoor activity to tire out your dog. My dogs also enjoy hunting for toys hidden around the house and hunting for their hidden dinner bowls. Giving them something they're allowed to destroy like cardboard boxes is always a hit too.

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Thanks, although I got a local(ish) trainer I was going to use for the recall class :).
She's a Great Dane. She'll play fetch for about 5 throws before getting bored, although she will play tug until the cows go home. (And yes, I do try to mix up the fetch and tug game to keep the toy interesting).

Tug is great for recalls :)

Problem!
Jan 1, 2007

I am the queen of France.

Mathematics posted:

The only problem with trying to stimulate her mentally is she's not food motivated at all.

Even the shelter noted that she's not really into food. She just naturally eats what she needs to stay alive and isn't crazy about anything else.

So I'm not really sure how I can make her think. I put her food in a kong mixed with PB and she picked at it but wasn't really interested.

She's been checked by a vet and she's fine.

Any non-food and apartment friendly ideas for mental stimulation?

His reward is me throwing his ball, he's not particularly food motivated either. For a toy-motivated dog getting to chase the ball or play a little bit of tug as a reward is just as good as a treat.

He's also got a big soccer ball we kick down the hallway, but he's almost broken a few pieces of furniture already with it so I would not recommend.

adventure in the sandbox
Nov 24, 2005



Things change


I wouldn't try to tire out a newly spayed dog with a backpack.

Is she young? Two walks a day probably aren't enough. My large breed pups got a minimum of 4 walks daily.

Kluliss
Mar 6, 2011

Cake, is it a drug, or is it simply a delicious chocolatey piece of heaven?
Dumb dog owner question: our dog's had a stressful day (I ended up having to bring her home from the mil's as she wouldn't settle/stop whining/barking) after being there a couple of hours. She's spent quite a while chewing her back paw, which she does regularly but this time she's make the edge around the base of a nail raw.

It's clean, no bad smell, she's not scratching at it constantly, just looks like she nibbled it (I do the same thing tbh). She's not favouring that foot and isn't crying about it so it can't be that painful. Do I need to gauze and wrap it, and if so, do I need a special type of wrap or can I use something like kinesio tape?

7seven7
May 19, 2006

I barfed because you looked in my eyes!
So this little ball of terror came to live with us last week.



I've been following this and the training thread and read several books, but I have a few stupid questions to clear things up. I just really want to make sure I'm doing everything right so she can be as happy and healthy as possible.

She's been with us for about a week and she's been house training since the first moment she got here. She's eliminated a few times in the house when I've left her alone. She's only eight weeks old, so I realise it could be a slow process, but I want to make sure I'm doing it right. I've been really vigilant about watching for signs that she needs to go and I think I've caught it almost every time. I'm scooping her up the second I see her squatting or making sure I get her outside whenever she wakes up or about two hours after she's had a meal. Then I'm taking her outside and waiting until she eliminates. I make a big fuss of her while she eliminates. "Good girl!" "Good poops!" and lots of stroking etc. Should I be giving her treats the second she starts to pee/poop? Or should I wait until she's finished before rewarding her. I've been doing the latter and tried the former once or twice, but she didn't seem interested in eating while she was doing the deed. Am I doing this right at all? I think she's starting to let me know when she needs to go. A few times over the last two days she's been whining at the door or circling around and whining. I've then taken her outside and she eliminated and I gave her double treats and lots of attention.

She's been sleeping on the couch with me for a few days just so she has something warm and reassuring at night in a new environment, but now I think it's time to get her used to sleeping in her own bed. The last two nights I've been waiting for her to fall asleep on me, then carrying her over to the bed whilst she's asleep. Any time she's woken up after that I've just picked her up and placed her back in the dog bed when she wanders over to the sofa again. She has her own hot water bottle with a super soft cover to simulate body heat and make her feel a little more secure. Is this the best way to be going about it? I'll hopefully be leaving her alone and sleeping upstairs within a few days. Or is it just too young to be leaving her alone? If she eliminates in the night, aside from cleaning up the mess, what do I do about it?

I've also been sure that any time I leave her alone and she's crying out for me, I wait at least 10-15 seconds before the crying stops to enter the room. I've completely puppy proofed the room she's staying in, so I'm not worried about her hurting herself, but a few times she's eliminated whilst I've been out of the room. then I've taken her outside and treated her if she eliminates again outside. Should I be doing that? Is that rewarding eliminating in the house? Could I be doing things better when it comes to leaving her alone?

Oh, and she's chewing on everything. I've gotten her a few KONG chewables and a little rope thing that she seems to love going to town on. She still licks and mouths on me and my girlfriend, but she's gotten good enough at a soft mouth that she doesn't hurt us at all any more. Is it OK to let her keep mouthing/chewing on us and her blankets and pillows providing she's not doing any damage or should I be making more of an effort to discourage that? Apart from diverting her attention with the chew toys and buying a bitter spray, is there anything else I coulkd be doing?

Sorry if any of this is dumb. I just really want to do this the right way.

7seven7 fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 21, 2015

Fraction
Mar 27, 2010

CATS RULE DOGS DROOL

FERRETS ARE ALSO PRETTY MEH, HONESTLY


7seven7 posted:

She's been with us for about a week and she's been house training since the first moment she got here. She's eliminated a few times in the house when I've left her alone. She's only eight weeks old, so I realise it could be a slow process, but I want to make sure I'm doing it right. I've been really vigilant about watching for signs that she needs to go and I think I've caught it almost every time. I'm scooping her up the second I see her squatting or making sure I get her outside whenever she wakes up or about two hours after she's had a meal. Then I'm taking her outside and waiting until she eliminates. I make a big fuss of her while she eliminates. "Good girl!" "Good poops!" and lots of stroking etc. Should I be giving her treats the second she starts to pee/poop? Or should I wait until she's finished before rewarding her. I've been doing the latter and tried the former once or twice, but she didn't seem interested in eating while she was doing the deed. Am I doing this right at all? I think she's starting to let me know when she needs to go. A few times over the last two days she's been whining at the door or circling around and whining. I've then taken her outside and she eliminated and I gave her double treats and lots of attention.

First up, try and predict when she needs the toilet, rather than waiting until she squats then scooping her up. With housetraining, you have to be 100% proactive, rather than reactive. Give her the treat after she's finished toileting. IMO you're waiting too long between meal + taking her out - it should be around half an hour to an hour max between finishing her meal that you take her out, as puppy bowels will fill up incredibly quickly and you don't want her waiting uncomfortably for the 2hr period. Going to the door is an excellent sign, and something that is still beyond the 11 week old puppy I've currently got :)

7seven7 posted:

She's been sleeping on the couch with me for a few days just so she has something warm and reassuring at night in a new environment, but now I think it's time to get her used to sleeping in her own bed. The last two nights I've been waiting for her to fall asleep on me, then carrying her over to the bed whilst she's asleep. Any time she's woken up after that I've just picked her up and placed her back in the dog bed when she wanders over to the sofa again. Is this the best way to be going about it? I'll hopefully be leaving her alone and sleeping upstairs within a few days. Or is it just too young to be leaving her alone? If she eliminates in the night, aside from cleaning up the mess, what do I do about it?

Are you crating her at all? If not, you're just going to have to suck up and accept that she's going to piss/poo poo everywhere and possibly shred her bed and anything else in the room throughout the night. With the aforementioned 11 week old puppy, we're crating throughout the night, and her owner gets up several times throughout to let her out to pee/poo. We've been accident free for almost a week now, day-time and night-time.

7seven7 posted:


I've also been sure that any time I leave her alone and she's crying out for me, I wait at least 10-15 seconds before the crying stops to enter the room. I've completely puppy proofed the room she's staying in, so I'm not worried about her hurting herself, but a few times she's eliminated whilst I've been out of the room. then I've taken her outside and treated her if she eliminates again outside. Should I be doing that? Is that rewarding eliminating in the house? Could I be doing things better when it comes to leaving her alone?

That isn't rewarding elimination in the house, so no worries about that. If you're not using crates or pens, then you won't be able to predict when she needs the toilet and you're going to have to deal with a lot of pee/poo. Make sure that when you DO go in the room, don't go straight to her, or you'll associate you with FUN TIMES FRIENDSHIP OMG. If you need to get her to the toilet, scoop her up, don't say anything or look at her, take her outside, and reward and give plenty of fuss when she toilets.

7seven7
May 19, 2006

I barfed because you looked in my eyes!

Fraction posted:

First up, try and predict when she needs the toilet, rather than waiting until she squats then scooping her up. With housetraining, you have to be 100% proactive, rather than reactive. Give her the treat after she's finished toileting. IMO you're waiting too long between meal + taking her out - it should be around half an hour to an hour max between finishing her meal that you take her out, as puppy bowels will fill up incredibly quickly and you don't want her waiting uncomfortably for the 2hr period. Going to the door is an excellent sign, and something that is still beyond the 11 week old puppy I've currently got :)

Okey doke. I'd read to wait about two hours, but we'll switch it up to thirty minutes instead. Thanks so much for this advice.

Fraction posted:

Are you crating her at all? If not, you're just going to have to suck up and accept that she's going to piss/poo poo everywhere and possibly shred her bed and anything else in the room throughout the night. With the aforementioned 11 week old puppy, we're crating throughout the night, and her owner gets up several times throughout to let her out to pee/poo. We've been accident free for almost a week now, day-time and night-time.

We're not crating at the moment. I'm not squeamish about poops and stuff, so I'm OK with a bunch of mess. There's nothing in the room that she can shred apart from the bed, so we should be OK in that regard. I'm sure she'll prove me wrong, but I've made sure there aren't any wires she can get to and in terms of floor space there's absolutely nothing there aside from her bowls, so she can't choke on anything.

Fraction posted:

That isn't rewarding elimination in the house, so no worries about that. If you're not using crates or pens, then you won't be able to predict when she needs the toilet and you're going to have to deal with a lot of pee/poo. Make sure that when you DO go in the room, don't go straight to her, or you'll associate you with FUN TIMES FRIENDSHIP OMG. If you need to get her to the toilet, scoop her up, don't say anything or look at her, take her outside, and reward and give plenty of fuss when she toilets.

I'll make sure I don't go to her first. Thanks a lot.

BaseballPCHiker
Jan 16, 2006

Looking for advice on bathroom breaks and feeding with my dog. Currently I stop home during the middle of the day and let her out and feed her. She always pee's and usually poops during this time. I have a potential new job where I wont be able to come home in the middle of the day to let her out. She's made it as long as 12 hours by herself before just fine and consistently goes 6-8 hours alone just fine. I'm worried that 10 everyday may be to much for her though. She's almost two and I wonder if I'm just being nervous about nothing. Should I just try to gradually go longer and longer without letting her out? Do I restrict water while home alone now? I normally give her free reign while gone and I haven't had any problems yet.

m.hache
Dec 1, 2004


Fun Shoe

BaseballPCHiker posted:

Looking for advice on bathroom breaks and feeding with my dog. Currently I stop home during the middle of the day and let her out and feed her. She always pee's and usually poops during this time. I have a potential new job where I wont be able to come home in the middle of the day to let her out. She's made it as long as 12 hours by herself before just fine and consistently goes 6-8 hours alone just fine. I'm worried that 10 everyday may be to much for her though. She's almost two and I wonder if I'm just being nervous about nothing. Should I just try to gradually go longer and longer without letting her out? Do I restrict water while home alone now? I normally give her free reign while gone and I haven't had any problems yet.

Our Black Lab just turned 2 today and she's home for on average 10 hours on her own. She's just super hyper when we get home but beyond that we've never had an accident in the house.

They'll usually just sleep the whole day building up an unlimited fountain of energy for when you get home.

Problem!
Jan 1, 2007

I am the queen of France.
My dogs are home alone 10 hours a day. On occasions where I come home early they're both like "wtf are you doing home?" and they don't need to go out till when I usually come home.

da anime bulldog
Sep 14, 2004

My idea of helping people.
My husband and I are getting a Corgi in late June at 14 weeks. I just read a 44 page document from the AAHA about vaccination schedules and spent about 3 hours choosing the right collar. I am a nervous wreck because I don't want anything to go wrong or do anything stupid. I don't have any specific questions yet but I just wanted to share my anxiety. Thanks for listening goons I'm going to go weigh the merits of different travel crates now.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


da anime bulldog posted:

My husband and I are getting a Corgi in late June at 14 weeks. I just read a 44 page document from the AAHA about vaccination schedules and spent about 3 hours choosing the right collar. I am a nervous wreck because I don't want anything to go wrong or do anything stupid. I don't have any specific questions yet but I just wanted to share my anxiety. Thanks for listening goons I'm going to go weigh the merits of different travel crates now.

Picking my puppy up in 6 days and yes it gets a bit nerve wracking with all the things you have to do. OK so I have to make sure to watch her all the time so she doesn't go to the toilet inside and give her some space but also let her get some socialisation in but not a place where there are lots of dogs as she doesn't have all her shots and try not to over whelm her and oh god a VET visit etc... etc...

At this point it is happening so I am just going to go with the flow and enjoy my week and half working from home with a puppy.

kimbolily
Apr 19, 2012
Please Work Out.
Yay! I got to be there for my puppy's birth. Well, I was there for the last 3 out of 10 puppies arrival. My fiance and I are moving into a group house/metal working and mechanic shop place and the super sweet shop dog had her babies yesterday. It was so amazing. She was a champ after a few days of off and on labor.

She's supposedly a wolf hybrid thing but I don't know about that. As soon as we take over primary care of the puppy we chose we will be super careful with the cats and other critters until we know what kind of temperament said pup will have. It helps that I have a cat tree that is completely enclosed except for a hole so they'll be safe in there once the puppy is large enough to cause problems with the felines.

Of course she had to choose the chill zone in the back of the shop to have them so work on cars was kind of at a stand still while we all nervously puttered around finding non noisy/fumey projects to work on.

Here she is with her slimey potatoes:



I've been doing some research on wolf mix dogs and am prepared to never let the dog off leash or out of a sturdy enclosure, not allow unsupervised around small animals or children. I plan on doing ALOT of socialization, I have a ton of friends/family with dogs, kids, random animal etc to help. I've already been lining them up. Are there other things I should be keeping in mind?

kimbolily fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Apr 23, 2015

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~
lmao why are you buying a puppy from someone who says their husky is a wold hybrid

kimbolily
Apr 19, 2012
Please Work Out.
I know how dumb this sounds, believe me. I have been going back and forth on this whole situation but after talking to my fiance more I'm more confident that she is part wolf. His sister is her original owner and he saw pictures of the wolf that is her dad. His sister saw the parents in person and checked out the breeder when she bought her. I personally haven't seen the photos or spoken to his sister(long story, she is insane and doesn't talk to the family) but he was fairly confident in the proof she had at that time.

The sister's ex husband and current owner of Kaia doesn't know/remember the breeder's name or information so I can do research but I do know how amazing of a dog she is. She has a sweet temperament and pretty much just chills on the property and doesn't leave unless she's with someone. She's even good with the chickens around.

I know that the likely hood in that she is at all wolf is slim but I am basically hoping for the best/planning for the worst. I'm not trying to thumb my nose at any of the advise in this thread which I have read pretty much every post. We have a great situation to raise the puppy in and are even now planning the enclosure our pup will have so it will be ready in time in case the pup is more wandery than the mom. We've got clickers, and treats, and plans with my friends with dogs from chihuahuas to great danes set up to socialize. We're ready, just looking to see if anyone here has real world experience/knowledge about other things I should be aware of. I've been around a lot of husky type dogs before and we are prepared to handle that as well.

I really can't help but believe the pups will be like the mom, the pups from her one other litter have apparently turned out as great pets and country dogs. We're moving to the boonies.

Problem!
Jan 1, 2007

I am the queen of France.
So a literally insane person told another person who told you that the dog is a wolf hybrid and you believe them?

It's a husky. Huskies have EXTREME levels of energy, and do you even know what the puppy's father was? This sounds like a terrible idea on so many levels.

kimbolily
Apr 19, 2012
Please Work Out.
I know the father of the puppies. He's a big lab. He was the father of the other litter. He's a super sweet guy.

The person who told my fiance about the dog was his sister and she's insane not stupid and finding an actual wolf mix is something she would do. and she knew the people.

I understand the hesitation. I really do. Believe me. I was doing the same thing. I've spent a lot of time around the mom and she is wonderful. My first dog was a shar-pei and she was pretty classic primitive breed. She was a sweet dog but she would only listen if she was motivated. I spent my college years with a very close friend with a enormously energetic husky mix. I am prepared for a super high energy dog. We're around alot and the shop has people there all the time who also live there. We've been reading up on huskies and malamutes and hybrids.

Whether or not I believe that she is part wolf she's a great dog. With the slightest chance that she could be part wolf and the pups take after that craziness, or just end up a busy husky I want to be prepared and thought that reaching out here might also help, besides the other resources I have been reading.

Our pup will be fixed and vaccinated and well cared for whatever type of temperament it has. We are dedicated to that.

ButWhatIf
Jun 24, 2009

HA HA HA
Do not give this "breeder" a cent of your money. This is the worst idea i've seen in a long time, and i work for people who literally cause their own dogs' resource guarding or separation anxiety problems.

EDIT: why on earth would you think this is a good idea after you claim you've read this thread??

supernatural blonde
Mar 15, 2005

Lipstick Apathy
Lol that dog has about as much wolf in her as my cats. Sorry you're getting a husky/lab mix not a 'wolf puppy' :)

wtftastic
Jul 24, 2006

"In private, we will be mercifully free from the opinions of imbeciles and fools."

nice ugly husky mix, gj getting puppies from some tweaker.

"We are dedicated to that" = "i just wanna tell my friends I have a loving wolf, HOW COOL IS THAT?!?!?!"

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Why has someone replaced that Den Mothers litter with some Labrador puppies? I mean she is clearly a wolf if you just look!

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~
Seriously though you seem pretty interested to making right decisions and planning with getting a puppy and you can make a much better choice than buying the lab-husky-"wolf dog".

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
dont get dogs from people too fuckin dumb to even know what breed the mother is, goddamn

wtftastic
Jul 24, 2006

"In private, we will be mercifully free from the opinions of imbeciles and fools."

Triangulum posted:

dont get dogs from people too fuckin dumb to even know what breed the mother is, goddamn

how would you ever buy a dog off of craigslist then, you loving elitist.

Triangulum
Oct 3, 2007

by Lowtax
tbh ive seen some p nice dogs on CL but they had like pedigrees and titles and poo poo. vex came from what is basically the german version of CL but his mom had KKL and IPO titles

Supercondescending
Jul 4, 2007

ok frankies now lets get in formation
found woop's litter on craigslist, whattup

7seven7
May 19, 2006

I barfed because you looked in my eyes!
Is a spray bottle a good way to tell my little monster "Hey, man. That's not OK."? She's eight weeks old and her training's going really well. She's having a few house eliminations every now andthen, but she's whining to let me know to take her outside more often than not. She's already developed a very good soft mouth, especially for a bulldog breed, but when she's at her most rambunctious she'll occasionally lunge at my nose, hand, or bite my trousers/shoe laces. I've tried yelping like a puppy. That worked for about two days. I tried walking out the room and waiting to come back to no avail. I've tried a firm "No!" as well, but I've read a lot of bad things about that and it hasn't been very effective.

I realise she's incredibly young and still has a long way to go. But I also know that she's at her most impressionable at this age and I'd like to teach her it's not OK to lunge or bite hands as soon as possible.

Tramii
Jun 22, 2005

He's a hawk. A hawk. Can't you tell just by looking at him?

7seven7 posted:

Is a spray bottle a good way to tell my little monster "Hey, man. That's not OK."?

A quick spray of water to the face has worked very well for my Boston Terrier. I've only had to use it a handful of times and now I can just hold the bottle in front of him to get the same effect. Only used it to curb extremely bad/dangerous behavior like chewing on power cords.

a life less
Jul 12, 2009

We are healthy only to the extent that our ideas are humane.

I don't particularly like using a spray bottle for bad behaviour. There are other options like management, redirection, and just living with it because it is a 8 week old puppy doing 8 week old puppy things.

My Chihuahua used to be sprayed for barking at her last home and now she shakes and panics when I bring out the bottle. I have this spray waterless shampoo thing that she haaates due to getting spritzed in the face all the time.

ButWhatIf
Jun 24, 2009

HA HA HA

Tramii posted:

A quick spray of water to the face has worked very well for my Boston Terrier. I've only had to use it a handful of times and now I can just hold the bottle in front of him to get the same effect. Only used it to curb extremely bad/dangerous behavior like chewing on power cords.

IMO if you have to continue to have a thing in hand to get a behavior past the initial learning stage (whether it's a treat or a correction tool), you probably need to try something else or progress beyond that point.

Appachai
Jul 6, 2011

I'm thinking about getting a dog, but I'd like to get PI to weigh in on something:

Is it better to bring your dog to work or better to leave the dog at home? Will to be nerve wracking for the dog to have two "home" environments?

I (maybe naively) thought it would be better to have a dog at work with me so we could go on short walks, more interaction, etc, but another forum advised me not to do this and to just leave the dog at home since they sleep 19 hours a day, and that being in that kind of environment for long periods would be bad for the dog. What do you all think?

Supercondescending
Jul 4, 2007

ok frankies now lets get in formation
Completely depends on the dog.

Appachai
Jul 6, 2011

Superconsndar posted:

Completely depends on the dog.

It's an alaskan klee kai if that matters.

Cythereal
Nov 8, 2009

I love the potoo,
and the potoo loves you.

Appachai posted:

It's an alaskan klee kai if that matters.

It depends completely on the dog.

PartyCrown
Dec 31, 2007

Superconsndar posted:

found woop's litter on craigslist, whattup

he's also part shovel

Supercondescending
Jul 4, 2007

ok frankies now lets get in formation

PartyCrown posted:

he's also part shovel

yeah but a fancy shovel.

PartyCrown
Dec 31, 2007

Superconsndar posted:

yeah but a fancy shovel.



???

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Supercondescending
Jul 4, 2007

ok frankies now lets get in formation

I want this to be his headstone when he dies

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