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moths posted:Eh, you're talking about artillery miles away missing the intended target by a fraction of a percentage. Depends on the artillery being used. PACK 75 howitzer? Not really THAT far away. Mortars? Even closer.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:24
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Bolt Action rules models that as on-board artillery. The friendly fire you roll for is the off-board battalion level stuff, which you wouldn't be using at small-arms range, historically.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:33
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moths posted:Bolt Action rules models that as on-board artillery. The friendly fire you roll for is the off-board battalion level stuff, which you wouldn't be using at small-arms range, historically. Yeah, I wrote it off as that kind of artillery not supposed to be used at the 1/72 scale range that Bolt Action represents. I'm no WWII expert, but if you're close enough on the first turn to shoot someone with a rifle, that's probably too close for WWII to avoid accidental friendly fire. But then why have it in the game? I would've liked it if British artillery got a +1 bonus to on-board artillery or something instead. At least you can have it fire smoke instead of normal shells, but you have to choose that the first time you fire it in the game. I don't think you can blame me for wanting to switch to a nation that has a bonus besides the free artillery observer when it lost me 3/4 of my first games. Planes can also gently caress you over if you roll a 1, by the way - then your opponent gets to target one of your units.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:11
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BJPaskoff posted:Yeah, I wrote it off as that kind of artillery not supposed to be used at the 1/72 scale range that Bolt Action represents. I'm no WWII expert, but if you're close enough on the first turn to shoot someone with a rifle, that's probably too close for WWII to avoid accidental friendly fire. But then why have it in the game? I would've liked it if British artillery got a +1 bonus to on-board artillery or something instead. At least you can have it fire smoke instead of normal shells, but you have to choose that the first time you fire it in the game. I don't think you can blame me for wanting to switch to a nation that has a bonus besides the free artillery observer when it lost me 3/4 of my first games. Chain of Command treats artillery better, everything larger than a medium mortar is off table. But I guess people want to model a bunch of huge artillery pieces, even though it doesn't make sense in the scale.
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Apr 22, 2015 21:51
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lilljonas posted:Chain of Command treats artillery better, everything larger than a medium mortar is off table. But I guess people want to model a bunch of huge artillery pieces, even though it doesn't make sense in the scale. You can always have some cool huge artillery pieces in the other room, as well as a guy with a stack of tables trying to figure out where you want him to shoot 
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Apr 22, 2015 22:01
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If you guys are playing Bolt Action for historical accuracy you're doing it wrong. Also barrages (and common "misfire" opponent controlled strikes) are meant to discourage blobbing, which is a good thing.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:40
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The caliber of artillery is going to affect how close you'd want to bring your rounds in, as another user mentioned- to an extent. Smaller isn't necessarily going to mean closer, as other factors play into the accuracy of indirect fire. For example. the modern "danger close" distance for light/medium artillery and light/medium mortars is generally the same; mortars may be a smaller round fired from closer but they are not computing/factoring for things artillery is such as weather, etc. The higher arc of mortars also affects the accuracy. During WWII artillery could become more accurate than you might expect; the more planned and deliberate an operation and the related artillery fires, the more accurate they could be. On the topic of artillery friendly fire, all the primary players in WWI eventually established their own guidelines for acceptable artillery fratricide percents, used for planning purposes and to judge how successful an operation and the artillery support had been.
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Apr 23, 2015 02:34
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BJPaskoff posted:Yeah, I wrote it off as that kind of artillery not supposed to be used at the 1/72 scale range that Bolt Action represents. I'm no WWII expert, but if you're close enough on the first turn to shoot someone with a rifle, that's probably too close for WWII to avoid accidental friendly fire. But then why have it in the game? I would've liked it if British artillery got a +1 bonus to on-board artillery or something instead. At least you can have it fire smoke instead of normal shells, but you have to choose that the first time you fire it in the game. I don't think you can blame me for wanting to switch to a nation that has a bonus besides the free artillery observer when it lost me 3/4 of my first games. You just got unlucky with the rolls. Really unlucky if single artillery barrages ruined 3 games for you. In my games that's usually reserved for direct hits, which needs a further roll of 6. Don't forget that the barrage only comes once and the marker is removed after it hits. This wasn't 100% clear in the rulebook, but was clarified in the FAQ.
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Apr 23, 2015 12:02
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Neferreth posted:Don't forget that the barrage only comes once and the marker is removed after it hits. This wasn't 100% clear in the rulebook, but was clarified in the FAQ. Oh that's good to know! I was confused as to why it seemed like the barrage was supposed to happen at the start of every turn once you call it in.
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Apr 23, 2015 12:52
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Neferreth posted:You just got unlucky with the rolls. Really unlucky if single artillery barrages ruined 3 games for you. In my games that's usually reserved for direct hits, which needs a further roll of 6. What? The rulebook says to roll for every turn after. But you're right, I just checked the FAQ, which says: "Once the artillery barrage arrives, the process stops and no further rolls are made. Only the result 2-3 on the chart mean that you must keep rolling in following turns." That's a bit better. Even if it hits me, it's not going to stay in that spot, forcing me to run away. There's a ton of rules changes and clarification in this FAQ. I'm going to have to print it out and read it. Right now I'm thinking about switching to Americans because BARs and not getting -1 to moving and shooting suits my play style really well.
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Apr 23, 2015 15:06
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So I've went hunting for deals (went with the FoW big book) and I am thinking of using Wargames factory for Infantry and Plastic Soldier for Armor. 1) Are there any caveats with such a route? 2)I couldn't find any artillery beyond mortars or heavy weapons teams, did I miss a 3rd party option for that? Also, are these boner educing 16th century samurai/ashigaru in 28mm? 25mm?
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Apr 23, 2015 18:31
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DiHK posted:So I've went hunting for deals (went with the FoW big book) and I am thinking of using Wargames factory for Infantry and Plastic Soldier for Armor. 1) Are there any caveats with such a route? 2)I couldn't find any artillery beyond mortars or heavy weapons teams, did I miss a 3rd party option for that? Well a guy who bought them said 'compatible with perry minis', and those are 28mm. The bases are listed as 20mm, which makes me think they're 25s, though. I'm helping!
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Apr 23, 2015 19:33
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Well a guy who bought them said 'compatible with perry minis', and those are 28mm. The bases are listed as 20mm, which makes me think they're 25s, though.
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Apr 23, 2015 19:45
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Arquinsiel posted:GW human-sized squares are 20mm, that's fine for 28mm mans. Oh? I could swear they were bigger.
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Apr 23, 2015 22:09
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Oh? I could swear they were bigger.
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Apr 23, 2015 22:20
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DiHK posted:So I've went hunting for deals (went with the FoW big book) and I am thinking of using Wargames factory for Infantry and Plastic Soldier for Armor. 1) Are there any caveats with such a route? 2)I couldn't find any artillery beyond mortars or heavy weapons teams, did I miss a 3rd party option for that? None at all. Go hogwild. The best thing about historicals are all the cheap model makers out there. You may get lucky with Peter Pig, if you can stomach the horrible website (which, I'm told, is actually an improvement over the previous one and was apparently recently redone). The models aren't bad. http://www.peterpig.co.uk/range8.htm
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Apr 23, 2015 22:23
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Throbbing blob posted:None at all. Go hogwild. The best thing about historicals are all the cheap model makers out there. You may get lucky with Peter Pig, if you can stomach the horrible website (which, I'm told, is actually an improvement over the previous one and was apparently recently redone). The models aren't bad. http://www.peterpig.co.uk/range8.htm Oh wow. That's a terrible loving site. Atleast they have greatcoated infantry.
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Apr 23, 2015 22:32
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DJ Dizzy posted:Oh wow. That's a terrible loving site. Atleast they have greatcoated infantry. Yeah, it's one of the worst I've ever bothered with, but they can get even worse. I once saw a site where they wanted me to fax them my order after picking out what I wanted from their online catalogue. This was after my reg date. Can't fault them on the models themselves though, they're actually pretty passable, even though the little dudes all seemed to have faces made by pushing 3 holes into the head, making them look like little inflatable sex dolls.
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Apr 23, 2015 22:53
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They look adorably like Doozers from Fraggle Rock, I've never been able to unsee it. E: 
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Apr 23, 2015 23:24
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I find the website nostalgic and I think the minis are better than some of the battlefront dudes. It's like melty Nazis at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark. This is why I am a bad.
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Apr 23, 2015 23:48
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Yeah, a lot of the BF metal guys are terrible. But those new plastics! 
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Apr 24, 2015 07:18
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DiHK posted:So I've went hunting for deals (went with the FoW big book) and I am thinking of using Wargames factory for Infantry and Plastic Soldier for Armor. 1) Are there any caveats with such a route? 2)I couldn't find any artillery beyond mortars or heavy weapons teams, did I miss a 3rd party option for that? I have bought all the WGF samurai sets, and I have some reviews on my site with pictures: http://muraminiatures.com/articles.html If you have any question about samurai miniatures just go ahead, I'm so far that damned rabbit hole that I just got a complete and annotated English copy of the 17th Century compilation of Japanese heraldry: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/xavid/o-umajirushi-17th-century-samurai-heraldry (it is great) They are 28mm and there are some comparison pictures to other ranges in the reviews. I would say that they are a great way to build the bulk of an army, but it could also be a good idea to get some slightly more expensive metal troops to fill up your front rank, as their poses can be a tad wooden. As for Peter Pig, I've painted up a 15mm samurai army of roughly 300 troops for a customer, and I found them to have nice detail and they were fun to paint. I've also have had some Contacts with the owner, and he was a swell bloke. And if you think his site is bad you're a blessed, blessed person. I'm trying to figure out how to order from Adler right now, and that is a process that requires at least a BA in accounting. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 12:23
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DiHK posted:So I've went hunting for deals (went with the FoW big book) and I am thinking of using Wargames factory for Infantry and Plastic Soldier for Armor. 1) Are there any caveats with such a route? 2)I couldn't find any artillery beyond mortars or heavy weapons teams, did I miss a 3rd party option for that? Yeah, you can go wild with the cheaper options. Only thing that you have to take into account, is that there might be small size differences between different makers. For example Plastic Soldier shermans, are smaller than battlefront ones. It's only a bit, but noticable. http://www.forgedinbattle.com/ is another 3rd party option. No personal experience, but the range is quite diverse. Another interesting tidbit is that battlefront is launching several starter army sets in plastic: German Soviet US Not super cheap, but decent value for money.
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Apr 24, 2015 14:45
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lilljonas posted:I have bought all the WGF samurai sets, and I have some reviews on my site with pictures: Are you Jean Reno's friend from Ronin?
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Apr 24, 2015 16:01
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^^^^^ Best post I've ever read on SA.
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Apr 24, 2015 16:05
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Are you Jean Reno's friend from Ronin? Oh I fuckin wish I could have that table at home.
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Apr 24, 2015 16:14
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Thought I'd share some progress on my Slovak Rapid Division for BA. http://freshcoastgaming.blogspot.com/2015/04/bolt-action-slovak-rapid-division.html?m=1
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Apr 25, 2015 01:09
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Does anyone besides Battlefront make 15mm artillery? I'm looking specifically for Us Artillery, 105s and 155s especially.
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Apr 25, 2015 07:54
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Beardless posted:Does anyone besides Battlefront make 15mm artillery? I'm looking specifically for Us Artillery, 105s and 155s especially. Peter Pig has 105s but no 155s.
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Apr 25, 2015 08:02
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Beardless posted:Does anyone besides Battlefront make 15mm artillery? I'm looking specifically for Us Artillery, 105s and 155s especially. Old Glory might be your best bet. They've got: Six pack of 105mm howitzers $18 Three pack of M12 155mm Gun Motor Carriages $25 And you'll probably want a $16 bag of fifty artillery crewmen.
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Apr 25, 2015 13:41
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Beardless posted:Does anyone besides Battlefront make 15mm artillery? I'm looking specifically for Us Artillery, 105s and 155s especially. Forged in Battle has a 105mm, but they don't have a 155mm
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Apr 25, 2015 18:26
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moths posted:Old Glory might be your best bet. They've got: If you're looking for OG minis for cheap, this site has them with substantial discounts. http://warweb.com/American_c836.htm
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Apr 25, 2015 20:41
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I found a store that carries a bunch of 1/48 military stuff, so I'm thinking of maybe picking up enough to build two small Bolt Action armies. What's a good point size to start out learning on, 250? 500? Or should I go for 1000? I only have the basic rule book with the lists in the back. I'm thinking I might try to convince one of my fellow coworkers (a former WHF player) to maybe give it a go, but we'll see.
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Apr 26, 2015 10:13
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Acebuckeye13 posted:If you're looking for OG minis for cheap, this site has them with substantial discounts. http://warweb.com/American_c836.htm FYI, I am still waiting on an order from war web and it's coming up on 50 days. Contacting them is difficult as they don't reply to email or ever answer their phone. A trick I learned though is that they share a warehouse with oldglory15s, so if you call them they will run over and put the war web guys on the phone. I don't like doing that but what else are you supposed to do when a business won't communicate with its customers?
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Apr 26, 2015 15:15
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YF19pilot posted:I found a store that carries a bunch of 1/48 military stuff, so I'm thinking of maybe picking up enough to build two small Bolt Action armies. What's a good point size to start out learning on, 250? 500? Or should I go for 1000? I only have the basic rule book with the lists in the back. Bolt Action is 1/56 though, isn't it? Does it matter? I'm new at this. I live less than an hour from The War Store's main warehouse, which is dangerous for my wallet. Luckily they're out of stock on a lot of British Bolt Action stuff. I'm going there Tuesday to pick up a Universal Carrier group.
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Apr 26, 2015 16:08
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Generally, the scale doesn't really matter, as long as you and your opponent are playing the same scale. In fact, people say playing Bolt Action with 15mm figures makes the weapon ranges seem much more reasonable. Here's a fun trick at parties: If a game's written for 28mm figures, nothing changes if you go down to 10mm figures and switch all measurements from inches to centimetres. One of these days I'm going to play all my games on a 72cm by 48cm table. One of these days.
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Apr 26, 2015 16:16
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nesbit37 posted:FYI, I am still waiting on an order from war web and it's coming up on 50 days. Contacting them is difficult as they don't reply to email or ever answer their phone. A trick I learned though is that they share a warehouse with oldglory15s, so if you call them they will run over and put the war web guys on the phone. I don't like doing that but what else are you supposed to do when a business won't communicate with its customers? Oh yeah, their service is abysmal. I ordered some stuff from them a while back and it didn't come in for the three months. Can't beat the prices, though.
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Apr 26, 2015 17:27
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Old Glory has a membership club that gives a 40% discount - but it costs $50 and only lasts a year. You also get some free miniatures, but I just don't buy enough OG stuff in a year to justify it.
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Apr 26, 2015 17:36
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BJPaskoff posted:Bolt Action is 1/56 though, isn't it? Does it matter? I'm new at this. 1:48 is a relatively new scale for vehicle model kits (used to be almost only for airplanes). But they are more common than plastic 28mm/1:56 scale kits, and usually better and more detailed, but also not built primarily to survive tons of handling. So imho you are stuck with either a small range of expensive plastic and often fugly resin kits, or a larger range of great plastic kits and tiny flimsy details that will break off after a few games. Pick your poison (i went for 1:48). The difference is small, but you will see it if you put two similar tanks next to each other. So it doesn't really matter which type your opponent use, but it can look iffy if you mix and match too much. Personally I would choose one scale when planning the army, based on what I want to field and what kits are available. There are usually tons of resin kits for 1:48/28mm, but they often look a bit goofy. Try to find a sd kfz 232 that doesn't look bad, for example. But there's a great 1:48 kit from Tamiya. On the other hand, there's no option for a pz. I in 1:48, etc. So which scale is better depends a lot on what you want to field. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Apr 26, 2015 |
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Apr 26, 2015 21:36
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BJPaskoff posted:Bolt Action is 1/56 though, isn't it? Does it matter? I'm new at this. You can change the scale with pretty much any game, as long as you scale up/down the ranges as appropriate. It's been a sort of wishful project of mine to build two Micro Armor armies to Flames of War specs, and more or less build a table based around the city and LGS I played at. But the LGS I played at was run by a bad person, so I might just do it with another city as the basis.
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Apr 27, 2015 01:23
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