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Anyone know the part number for a subaru boost control solenoid for a 05 sti? I can't seem to find it online. I'm having problems with only boosting to .05 mpa and then it'll boost fine the next day for awhile.
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Apr 27, 2015 22:13
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I can't find it on opposed forces. Seems like a weird things to fail but I assume that there are tons of them floating around nasioc etc from guys that went to a 3-port.
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Apr 27, 2015 22:29
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jamal posted:I can't find it on opposed forces. Seems like a weird things to fail but I assume that there are tons of them floating around nasioc etc from guys that went to a 3-port. Yeah it's weird. I'll be able to boost to over .1 mpa and then 5 minutes later it won't boost above .05 mpa. I've gone over every hose that I can think of and I can't find a boost leak. For example I have a 20 minute commute home from work and when I left work I was able to reach full boost in all gears and then 3 miles from home it won't boost above .05 mpa. I then did a few things around the house and then drove the car a half hour after I got home and it'll boost fine.
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Apr 27, 2015 22:42
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G-Mach posted:Anyone know the part number for a subaru boost control solenoid for a 05 sti? I can't seem to find it online. I'm having problems with only boosting to .05 mpa and then it'll boost fine the next day for awhile. Is that what you are looking for?
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Apr 27, 2015 23:14
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What are the stock spring rates on a blobeye? Can't get a concrete answer.
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Apr 28, 2015 05:02
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The numbers I've heard are around 163f/132r with maybe an extra 10lb rear for wagons.
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Apr 28, 2015 05:16
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So I can convert it to metric, what are the units? Pounds/?
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Apr 28, 2015 05:43
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lb/in. To convert to kg/mm, divide by 56.
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Apr 28, 2015 06:01
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Thanks
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Apr 28, 2015 06:15
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So I'm bad and bought a 3rd car. My dad sold me his 04 wrx wagon. I plan to part time dd it and rally cross it. I'm not worried about class as my dad has already put in a light fly wheel and decated up pipe. Any reason why I shouldn't look into forester suspension for a little lift? Edit: and what Subaru forums are worth a poo poo?
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Apr 29, 2015 13:40
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Skip lifting it and find a skid plate. Primative racing sells them. Also look for a set of 15s that will clear your brakes and a set of gravel tires, easily found used from rally teams (I have tons if you are in new england). If you don't want to go that route, separate 16s with winterforces are ok too. You can go a lot faster when you aren't worried about driving home on the same tires. Dirty impreza is ok, RS25 is ok, nasioc if you know how to filter the BS is ok. You'll get better answers here.
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Apr 29, 2015 13:47
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My main reason for wanting to raise it is to avoid knocking my bumper off. The front and rear bumper on my gf's civic are only held on by zip tires after 4 rally cross events. If that's not a problem for rallycross in a Subaru, yeah I'll just put plates on.
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Apr 29, 2015 14:05
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The front bumpers hold up fine, they only turned to cheese after 07.
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Apr 29, 2015 14:15
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The clips on the sides are absolute poo poo, my blobeye bumper is held on by zipties I hit a kangaroo hard enough to kill it though and the toral damage was an inch long crack and some scratched paint. No extra zipties needed than what was already holding up the sides.
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Apr 29, 2015 17:24
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Sorry to spam the thread. What's the current thought on tuners? My dad gave me an Openport 2.0 with the car. Is there any real reason to go with anything else as long as I'm not an idiot?
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Apr 29, 2015 18:10
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Does anyone have a '15 WRX that can give me some input? I'm planning on ordering a '16 when they get released later this year. I've been driving an Abarth for about a year and had an '11 WRX prior to that, a car I wish I had never gotten rid of. I miss the AWD in New Jersey, especially with the winter we had this year, and would like to have the extra space that the Abarth obviously doesn't offer.
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May 1, 2015 20:31
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I'm looking at repair costs north of $4000 to replace a leaking head gasket, machine the heads, and replace both catalytic converters in a 2006 Forester. The car runs alright now, with the occasional rough start (presumably from oil leaking into the engine). Here's the thing: I'm going back to college full time at the end of the year and probably will not need a daily driver, so I'd be ditching this car anyway. At the same time, any money I save now will be invaluable when my income disappears. What are the odds of it limping along another 8 months/~2500 miles?
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May 1, 2015 22:57
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External leak? Just let it dribble and keep the coolant topped up. Did you overheat it? Why do you think you need a new cat? You could do that job for a lot less than $4k, hell a whole new junkyard motor and exhaust is going to run you less than that. Look for used parts and a more affordable mechanic (if you don't want to tackle it yourself) and you'll be able to get it running 100% for a lot cheaper than that.
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May 1, 2015 23:05
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4k is dealer rear end gently caress prices. an indie guy should be able to get you under 2k. an eastern catalytic poop teir cat should be a few hundred and exploded after you get your sticker, headgaskets are 300 in parts + timing kit and the rest is labor.
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May 1, 2015 23:29
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You probably don't need to replace your cats and even if you do just bash one out and buy 1 new one.
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May 2, 2015 01:56
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I'm getting intermittent clicking coming in and out of gears. I mostly notice it when I'm quick to release the clutch, but not always. Any ideas of what it could be? I really hope it isn't anything major, I've already dumped $2500 into this loving car in the past 8 months. edit: I got in an accident recently (not my fault), could this be related? Pushed the grill/left headlight back by .5 - 1.5 inches, the bodyshop I took it to initially said it was just the front supports and the hood damaged. Radiator isn't cracked or damaged at all, so I thought everything in the engine bay was fine. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 04:05 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 02:15
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Shrapnig posted:Does anyone have a '15 WRX that can give me some input? I got a 15 back in December, have about 2k miles on it so far. What were you wondering about in particular? And for snow with altimax arctics on it I never wasn't able to get to work this winter just outside of Boston, except for that day there was a travel ban. But I totally could have if it wasn't illegal.
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May 2, 2015 02:33
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The throttle mapping where you get 100% power at 50% pedal is weird, the rev hang kinda sucks, the carbon trim is ugly, the side skirts are easy to scratch because they stick out so much, the doors are either half open or open really wide. I think the 2016 will fix the useless voice dialing. The Subaru winter floor mats are useless, don't bother, get some digital fit aftermarket, if you want to keep your carpet clean. I don't understand why people replace every bulb in the car with leds. If you replace the vanity mirror light you should have your car crushed.
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May 2, 2015 05:33
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mattmofob posted:I don't understand why people replace every bulb in the car with leds. If you replace the vanity mirror light you should have your car crushed. Don't read NASIOC.
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May 2, 2015 11:30
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I've replaced a few bulbs with LEDs. Mostly just the dome lights, so if I forget to turn the dome light off and leave a door open too long while working on the car it doesn't drain the battery. I did the third brake light in the Miata so it was really obvious that I am braking. I'd probably do turn signals too if there wasn't the whole pain in the rear end of adding flasher modules.
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May 2, 2015 16:44
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Anyone know what the proper torque spec for an engine oil drainplug on a newer 2.5 with a crush washer? It's a fairly small washer. 2011 Legacy
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May 2, 2015 20:43
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've replaced a few bulbs with LEDs. Mostly just the dome lights, so if I forget to turn the dome light off and leave a door open too long while working on the car it doesn't drain the battery. Yeah that's why I did mine. It started in the cabs because we go through some lights like crazy and I got tired of replacing them. It has the added advantage of being bright as hell and not killing the battery if it gets left on overnight. I replaced all my outside bulbs with leds but the high level brake lights seem to trip the ABS light, which Is sorta weird - they stayed as incandescents
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May 2, 2015 23:12
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Anyone know how much the A/C compressors varied across the EJ25 engines? Unless I can figure out how to rebuild the damned pulley on the front (the compressor works fine, just the bushings that hold the pulley on have failed) I'm going to be searching junkyards, and subaru's aren't common in the junkyards around here.
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May 2, 2015 23:38
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slidebite posted:Anyone know what the proper torque spec for an engine oil drainplug on a newer 2.5 with a crush washer? It's a fairly small washer. 2011 Legacy Crush the washer, make it snug. I don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on a drain plug. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:55 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 23:52
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on my car it's about two-finger-tight on a 9" ratchet
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May 3, 2015 00:46
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jamal posted:Crush the washer, make it snug. I don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on a drain plug. That's what I ended up doing but the washer doesn't seem to want to crush. I got it tight as I was comfortable doing. No leaks at least.
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May 3, 2015 01:03
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Get a Fumoto drain valve if you're gonna be doing regular oil changes
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May 3, 2015 01:44
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Way ahead of you, that is exactly what I put on.
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May 3, 2015 15:13
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Have they fixed the problem with the threads sticking up into the oil pan and thus not allowing everything to fully drain?
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May 3, 2015 15:22
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Couldn't tell ya, I wouldn't be surprised if the threads stuck up a bit stopping some from draining but it took full manual capacity so whatever was left in the pan was pretty minor.
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May 3, 2015 16:20
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But isn't that very last volume what's most likely to contain the worst sludge/particulates?
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May 3, 2015 16:28
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If a person just ran the engine a few minutes before draining, which I did, it's not going to be anything terrible. Besides, it's not like I let oil get super dirty to begin with. I suppose if it is a big concern and would lose sleep over it (I won't), you could just keep the drain open and pour a bit down the fill to just help flush the rest out. I buy it in a 4.5-5L container so there is always a bit left over anyhow. e: What's the go to filter for Subarus anyhow? I typically use Wix for my other vehicles. slidebite fucked around with this message at 06:12 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 16:41
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I'm about to change the spark plugs on my H6 Outback. Pray for me.
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May 3, 2015 18:47
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Boys who love boys
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slidebite posted:e: What's the go to filter for Subarus anyhow? I typically use Wix for my other vehicles. I use Napa Golds (7712) since the bypass spring pressure on a lot of the cheap stuff (*cough* Bosch) is very low - you need 23psi. I think the Wix 57712 is the same filter. The FB has a different Wix filter, the 57055 apparently. I don't have any experience on non-EJs.
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May 3, 2015 19:00
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I got this so I don't have to worry about it for a while, comes with crush washers: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O
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May 4, 2015 01:20
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