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Old school skylights for basements that extend under pavement. They're usually so filthy around here that you can probably just stick some PVA glue in there and paint them brownish.
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Apr 28, 2015 00:25
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Arquinsiel posted:Old school skylights for basements that extend under pavement. They're usually so filthy around here that you can probably just stick some PVA glue in there and paint them brownish. So you can peer into someone's nerdery as your walking down the sidewalk?
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Apr 28, 2015 05:24
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Usually it's poo poo like pub beer cellars and the like that have them, just to let light in in ye oldey times.
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Apr 28, 2015 05:37
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Totally ripping off that earlier poster, but... ... I got a shark, too!  Obviously still working on the head seam, but it's pretty slick. The body is actually a soft vinyl, so that was a bit surprising. I'm thinking I'll turn the closed-mouth head into a 1/18th scale trophy mount.
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Apr 29, 2015 01:14
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Or turn it into one of these 
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Apr 29, 2015 02:18
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Totally ripping off that earlier poster, but... You may already know this, since I had posted it earlier, but when you prime it make sure you use a lacquer based primer. Enamel based primers won't fully cure on vinyl surfaces. Enamel paint won't cure on bare vinyl either, but it's safe to use on primed vinyl. DupliColor Sandable Primer is good lacquer based primer you can find in most auto stores. There's a company called Montana that makes lacquer based primers as well, you can find them in some art stores.
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Apr 29, 2015 02:26
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Pierzak posted:What are those supposed to be anyway? Just glass tiles embedded in the sidewalk, or are they backlighted or something? They were prisms so you couldn't really see through them, they'd reflect the light down into the basement. They didn't start out blue/purple but over the decades would change that colour due to metals in the glass. They look like this from below  If you've ever taken the Seattle Underground tour you see a lot of them. Most of the areas they light are now abandoned which is a real shame. Lot of cities have them, and lot of cities HAD them but paved over them 
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Apr 29, 2015 02:54
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The ones around here look like this: http://glassian.org/Prism/UK/brooks.jpg
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Apr 29, 2015 03:00
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TANKS It's a 1:35th scale VM Valentine IV MkIII. The box was in Polish, but the manual said it was made in St Petersburg and was most distinctively originally Russian. Also it was almost certainly made for another kit, the blurb mentions smoke grenade launches (not in the kit) and saying "refer to box foto" for painting the tank in Soviet colours (the box is a British tank in North Africa). Also the manual suggests that the proper colour for winter 1942 is "matt Russian green". Presumably whoever did the painting guide was unaware that it snows in Rhzev. At least it came with both the British and Soviet skirt variants.    The kit quality was good, very thick plastic, and almost no pieces broke when I cut them off the sprue. The tracks come in individual plastic pieces, and as you can see, you get a ton of spares. Pieces fit together well, but there is some filling that needs to be done, and the turret fits in very tightly, to the point where once I sprayed on primer, it can no longer rotate. The gun moves up and down fine, but there is a noticeable gap underneath the gun mantlet that lets you see into the turret. While you can glue the hatch open or closed, there is barely any detail inside (just the hatch handles and a very primitive gun breech). The kit comes with three sets of decals, very minimalist Soviet (Rzhev, 1942) and two North Africa ones. A solid kit, overall, but I wish I could have had it for cheaper, as it's definitely showing its age. I still paid half as much as for the next cheapest Valentine on the market, so I think I did pretty well to progress my Lend-Lease collection. Now all I need is a Churchill and I'll be done the tanks! Here's the Valentine and its only British buddy in my collection, a Tamiya Matilda. 
Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Apr 29, 2015 |
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Apr 29, 2015 04:03
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Got the engine completed:    Those fuel lines were a huge pain in the rear end but I'm satisfied with the result. also got the front subframe started. Those are master cylinders in the front:  
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Apr 29, 2015 15:27
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That's a mighty fine looking engine! That subframe assembly is really showing the quality of that kit too, very nice.
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Apr 29, 2015 16:45
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You may already know this, since I had posted it earlier, but when you prime it make sure you use a lacquer based primer. Enamel based primers won't fully cure on vinyl surfaces. Enamel paint won't cure on bare vinyl either, but it's safe to use on primed vinyl. Ah, good lookin out. I've got some different stuff laying around so I'm sure I have something that will work.
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Apr 29, 2015 18:14
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Part way through my first scale model in over a decade. Issues so far are spraying too thickly. Figuring out how to deal with dust contaminating the paint finish since I live in a lovely apartment surrounded by filthy smoking neighbors in a neighborhood entirely populated by dirt, dust and more smokers. Also need to get a handle on grabbing tiny parts to aggressively with my tweezers and sending them flying off to who knows where. That 109 isn't going to have a Revi sight or pitot tube now. The aerial has also been damaged a half dozen times in the painting process. I'll leave that off until the very end in my future kits.  Also using a lovely cellphone camera that is having trouble with the smaller details. Those panel lines are nicely sharp and defined and not filled with paint like the image suggests :\.
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Apr 30, 2015 06:24
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Is that the Tamiya 109E? If so, great kit, and it looks fantastic. Any SW Ontario goons, McCormicks in London is closing 
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May 1, 2015 01:39
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Its a Hasegawa BF-109-F4. One of their Experten series planes.
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May 1, 2015 03:09
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Sauer posted:Part way through my first scale model in over a decade. Issues so far are spraying too thickly. Figuring out how to deal with dust contaminating the paint finish since I live in a lovely apartment surrounded by filthy smoking neighbors in a neighborhood entirely populated by dirt, dust and more smokers. Also need to get a handle on grabbing tiny parts to aggressively with my tweezers and sending them flying off to who knows where. That 109 isn't going to have a Revi sight or pitot tube now. The aerial has also been damaged a half dozen times in the painting process. I'll leave that off until the very end in my future kits. Looking very sharp indeed. What's the next steps? You going to panel shade with the airbrush at all?
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May 1, 2015 15:18
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Oh man, now this is super cool. Adam Savage and Chief Tyrol building some Battlestar Galactica models. Chief builds a Raider and a Centurion, Adam paints the poo poo out of Chief's action figure and the Raider, then does a 5 minute paintjob on the Centurion that's probably better than anything I've ever done. Also Chief describes whapping a sound guy with his schlong. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHITcrnGn1U
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May 1, 2015 15:49
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Enos Shenk posted:Oh man, now this is super cool. Adam Savage and Chief Tyrol building some Battlestar Galactica models. Really charming commentary about both of their experiences with Robin Williams at 50:00 mark.
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May 1, 2015 21:30
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big_g posted:Looking very sharp indeed. What's the next steps? You going to panel shade with the airbrush at all? There's already some very subtle shading that my phone just isn't picking up, but that was my issue with spraying to thickly. Most of the shading got covered (the most important advice still holds true, "when you think you need one more pass/coat/layer... stop!"). I'll make up for it with a very thin light shaded filter inside the panel lines just before I apply the decals (or maybe after, that might look better, dunno). I was attempting the technique described here and blew it. Not going to redo it since the masking was hell and screw it, its my first model in over a decade and my first time seriously using an airbrush. It still looks pretty great and will be even better after I muck it up a little with a wash and filter. I received a cheap E-Bay grab of an Accurate Miniatures Yak-1 in 1:48 scale today depicting Lilia Litvyak's ride that will be my next project. The plastic itself looks good and is extremely detailed by the looks of it. But the instructions... holyshit! Its like the guys that designed the kit actually proof read and tried out their own instructions a bunch before shipping it. They're the best I've ever seen. Also have lots of recommended assembly techniques and best guesses about how things would look in the real aircraft; including a large explanation of their color recommendations that basically comes down to "who the gently caress knows? even the Soviets didn't know what colors they were using; use your best judgement."
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May 1, 2015 23:14
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Sauer posted:...even the Soviets didn't know what colors they were using; use your best judgement." Realizing this was kind of a zen moment. After the third or fourth time pre-painting research stumbled on a gigantic forum thread arguing over what color some particular paint was intended to be, what it actually was when applied, and the way it looked during most of a vehicle's service life (these are of course three very different things) I just said "gently caress it" and started eyeballing poo poo and doing whatever scheme I wanted. If anyone calls me on it I plan to say "that particular tank was painted by idiots." I'm tempted to try make my Academy konigstiger ambush camo plaid.
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May 2, 2015 14:28
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I just did my canopy for the Corsair as I'm at the stage of finishing off all the details. I dipped it in future and then left it 48 hours to dry and cure which looked really spiffy, shiny and clear. I then used the eduard masks I bought specially which fitted like a glove. Matched the paint to the canopy and gently sprayed on a few light coats, looks great. Only then did I realise that I totally loving forgot to mask the INSIDE of the loving thing like an idiot. Slipped my mind, for some reason like a fool. So now that's hosed and I have to try to find somewhere who stocks or who can source me that sprue again, and buy another mask to start all over. So much for having the model finished this weekend so I can get started on my next project I'm itching to start. Model nerd problems.
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May 2, 2015 15:32
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Realizing this was kind of a zen moment. After the third or fourth time pre-painting research stumbled on a gigantic forum thread arguing over what color some particular paint was intended to be, what it actually was when applied, and the way it looked during most of a vehicle's service life (these are of course three very different things) I just said "gently caress it" and started eyeballing poo poo and doing whatever scheme I wanted. If anyone calls me on it I plan to say "that particular tank was painted by idiots." There were official paint guidelines, but it was sometimes hard to get official paint, so improvisations were common especially for Camo. Also you should totally do it in plaid.
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May 2, 2015 19:20
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Realizing this was kind of a zen moment. After the third or fourth time pre-painting research stumbled on a gigantic forum thread arguing over what color some particular paint was intended to be, what it actually was when applied, and the way it looked during most of a vehicle's service life (these are of course three very different things) I just said "gently caress it" and started eyeballing poo poo and doing whatever scheme I wanted. If anyone calls me on it I plan to say "that particular tank was painted by idiots." That sounds really awesome, actually. Do it 
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May 2, 2015 20:08
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Ensign Expendable posted:There were official paint guidelines, but it was sometimes hard to get official paint, so improvisations were common especially for Camo. Nebakenezzer posted:That sounds really awesome, actually. Do it The internet told me to, so now I have to.  Will report back. Eventually.
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May 2, 2015 21:35
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Sauer posted:Its a Hasegawa BF-109-F4. One of their Experten series planes. quote:Willy's gone and made another,
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May 3, 2015 01:39
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Been experimenting with different thinning mediums for my Vallejo paints (all my paint aside from Alclad metals). Water works fine but too much leads to the paint beading on the surface, corrected with a very tiny amount of dish soap as a surficant. The paint dries dead flat for most hues but seems rather fragile. Just passing my finger tip over it a few minutes after its touch dry will cause small flakes. Windex works exactly the same as water but costs more than water where I live. Isopropyl alcohol causes the paint to curdle. Rapidly congeals into chunks that spray globs all over your surface. Yuk. Might be useful for some effects in the future. Liquitex Airbrush medium is the best so far; thins beautifully and leave a rock solid surface after drying. It does lighten your paint when you mix it in but it dies perfectly clear leaving the true hue. Does have a tendency to cause White and anything you mix white into to dry on the tip a lot faster than usual. Leaves the surface semi-gloss. Future is pretty much the same and costs a poo poo load less but leaves a higher gloss surface.
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May 3, 2015 21:42
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Sauer posted:Been experimenting with different thinning mediums for my Vallejo paints (all my paint aside from Alclad metals). Water works fine but too much leads to the paint beading on the surface, corrected with a very tiny amount of dish soap as a surficant. The paint dries dead flat for most hues but seems rather fragile. Just passing my finger tip over it a few minutes after its touch dry will cause small flakes. Windex works exactly the same as water but costs more than water where I live. Isopropyl alcohol causes the paint to curdle. Rapidly congeals into chunks that spray globs all over your surface. Yuk. Might be useful for some effects in the future. Liquitex Airbrush medium is the best so far; thins beautifully and leave a rock solid surface after drying. It does lighten your paint when you mix it in but it dies perfectly clear leaving the true hue. Does have a tendency to cause White and anything you mix white into to dry on the tip a lot faster than usual. Leaves the surface semi-gloss. Future is pretty much the same and costs a poo poo load less but leaves a higher gloss surface. Vallejo makes airbrush medium that seems to work pretty well. There seem to be two variations. Don't know if one is discontinued and third party amazon sellers just have stock laying around, but both work pretty well, and are cheap enough (and go far enough) that they seem worth it IMO. One is way thinner, to the point where it makes measuring out a bit of a pain ("one drop, two, three fo-uh, six?") but it's surmountable. You probably know this but I thought I'd mention because it's weirdly hard to find in my area and may be like that elsewhere??
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May 3, 2015 23:27
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My local shop has pretty much every paint product made by Vallejo except their thinner for some odd reason; when I asked about it they said no has ever buys it when they do have it in stock  . I can order it online but it costs a fortune since no one in Canada seems to stock it.
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May 4, 2015 00:31
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I'm selling off scale models and board games. Check my SA Mart thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3717794&pagenumber=1&perpage=40#post444870001
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May 4, 2015 01:07
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big_g posted:
Before you buy another canopy and go through that hassle, try soaking the painted canopy in windex first. You may have to scrape off an edge of paint to expose it, but it should let you strip the future and paint off without scratching anything up.
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May 4, 2015 19:07
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Imp Boy posted:Before you buy another canopy and go through that hassle, try soaking the painted canopy in windex first. You may have to scrape off an edge of paint to expose it, but it should let you strip the future and paint off without scratching anything up. Gah! Thanks for the advice, I knew there would be some trick to sorting it but unfortunately it's been consigned to the rubbish in a pique of rage. New one coming this week though so hopefully I'll be able to get the bloody thing finished.
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May 4, 2015 21:01
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This is the most fiddly scratch build I've ever attempted, 2 little tram shelters and a raised platform. It's all very very tiny stuff. The whole thing is made out of cheap poster board, about .5mm thick. There's the cap of a yellow ball point pen in the first and 2nd shots behind a bottle of glue in case anyone wants a scale reference.  
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May 5, 2015 00:23
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Looks great, but the stop border tiles need a grey wash or something, I caught myself thinking "why is there a long bench right next to the rails?"
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May 5, 2015 01:55
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Baronjutter posted:Tiny and awesome. Have you considered a 3D printer? They aren't all that expensive these days and tiny precision parts are your stock and trade.
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May 5, 2015 02:08
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Ok, got the backs on! They're basically done, just maybe need some decals in the windows but that would require actually naming my town and transit agency. I threw in a pencil for scale.  I've never really gone into 3d printing, the detail isn't quite there yet. I've seen the best shapeways can do and it's not quite what I'd need, it's almost there though. Almost there in huge industrial state of the art printers, going to be a few more years until something affordable for the consumer level comes down the pipes. I know my makerspace has some UV based 3d printer coming one day. But the nozzle/extruder based ones can't do much for model trains sadly. They nicely maintain this stop, so the platform edge is nice and crisp like this one. That isn't even a pure white, I added a bunch of gray and a little brown. I think the camera boosts the contrast a bit too. But these edges are generally done in a very white slightly reflective paint similar to road stripes. 
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May 5, 2015 03:19
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Cartoon posted:Have you considered a 3D printer? They aren't all that expensive these days and tiny precision parts are your stock and trade. last I checked, they don't have the resolution for braille scale e:fb
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May 5, 2015 04:25
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Is 100 micro too fat? http://printrbot.com/compare-printers/ Not sure if this would be a bonus but here is something else: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emUlHFWcHck Cheap ones are less than $100.00 Not a criticism I love the work you are doing with old school techniques. I saw the vertical struts for the hut and thought "Whoa mass production time!"
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May 5, 2015 05:37
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Here's a 3d printed HO scale jeep using about the best 3d printing tech out there, N scale would be about half the size. I know some guys who sell n scale cars and custom stuff via shapeways, with a lot of work and expert painting they can look pretty ok but still like poo poo compared to an actual plastic kit. I can't wait until they get more and more comparable to injection molded stuff. Printing in colour would be rad too. I'm sure I'll get into 3d printing one day when my makerspace gets a better printer.
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May 5, 2015 05:51
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Baronjutter posted:Here's a 3d printed HO scale jeep using about the best 3d printing tech out there, N scale would be about half the size. I know some guys who sell n scale cars and custom stuff via shapeways, with a lot of work and expert painting they can look pretty ok but still like poo poo compared to an actual plastic kit. I can't wait until they get more and more comparable to injection molded stuff. Printing in colour would be rad too. Is that the best of "at home" 3D printing though? Because there is way better quality 3D printing than that out there. Virtually every toy company uses 3D printing for the prototypes and masters now, and that stuff comes out indistinguishable from the way stuff is molded by hand, and doesn't need any touching up. A lot of the guys in the garage kit industry 3D print their masters when they work in ZBrush too, and you'd never be able to tell it was printed versus a physical sculpt being molded. Color printing already exists as well, although that is still very prototypey and poo poo rear end expensive. The models used for the movie ParaNorman were all printed in color. It's expensive as poo poo, but flawless 3D printing does exist. Below is a 3D print produced by Ownage, originally sculpted by Dominic Qwek. As you can see, they come out drat near to perfect as you can get. 
Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 08:30 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 08:21
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Inherited a project and finally finished rewiring and the fiddle yard. Turntable and permanent headshunt (that will be done to enable expansion) left to do. Hopefully this album should work! Set near where my friend grew up in the Yorkshire Wolds near Driffield. https://plus.google.com/photos/117104743477197682061/albums/6145498002741456337 hjp766 fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 23:25
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