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gvibes posted:An impossibly dumb and also embarassing question: what kind of bits do I use with this - http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=2,20&p=685 - and what do I use it for? I also have this guy - http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=2,20&p=677, and I kind of know how to use that. Here's a good example kit: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Sho...lwaukee+bit+set For most intents and purposes it can do basically anything a good drill can do but with the benefit of quick release bits. I mostly use mine on my Jeep to save time spinning things on and off. I put the 3/8" socket adapter on and go to town. It's also a good bit smaller than the drill so it's easier to get into tight spots. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 19:59
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I dread using a ratchet since I got an impact driver. They have the torque that a drill doesn't to turn bolts. Get a 1/4 and 3/8 socket adapter and you can take bolts out in a tenth of the time versus a ratchet. Of course clearance is an issue for awkward spots, but I will never ratchet something if the impact driver can do it. You can only use 1/4" hex shank bits. I really only use the drill for drill bits and driving delicate screws now.
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Apr 23, 2015 01:16
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gvibes posted:An impossibly dumb and also embarassing question: what kind of bits do I use with this - http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=2,20&p=685 - and what do I use it for? I also have this guy - http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/tools.aspx?d=2,20&p=677, and I kind of know how to use that. Nice choice, I have the same impact driver. As others have posted you need to get "impact rated" bits because regular bits will break. Actually, so will impact bits but will just take longer. Impact drivers are super useful, they drive and remove screws quickly and the tool does the hammering work of driving the screw so you don't have to press as hard. And they make cool loud noises that sounds like a screaming banshee as they work
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Apr 23, 2015 03:46
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I've had great luck with the Makita gold colored impact bits, and horrid luck with the Milwaukee shock wave bits.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:30
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sharkytm posted:I've had great luck with the Makita gold colored impact bits, and horrid luck with the Milwaukee shock wave bits. My experience is the opposite.  On the other hand, the case that the Milwaukee Shockwave stuff stores in is total bullshit. The clip-in side is garden-grade annoying to fiddle with but the compartment for loose bits is mega-frustrating garbage.
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Apr 23, 2015 08:19
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Mmm scythe chat! I am subscribed to this guy on youtube. Every now and again I will put on a video and just relax. Makes me wish I wasn't left handed (apparently left handed scythes are stupid spendy/rare?). Oh and had somewhere that would need mowing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s7foFm6jNNE
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Apr 23, 2015 11:45
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lwoodio posted:I dread using a ratchet since I got an impact driver. They have the torque that a drill doesn't to turn bolts. Get a 1/4 and 3/8 socket adapter and you can take bolts out in a tenth of the time versus a ratchet. Of course clearance is an issue for awkward spots, but I will never ratchet something if the impact driver can do it.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:18
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gvibes posted:Do I need impact rated sockets as well? You definitely want to use impact sockets. Chrome sockets get explodey in horrible ways on an impact with no notice.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:28
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Seconding that, saw a shallow chrome 1/2" 21mm pulling a lugnut blow up into concertina wire once like an exploded golf ball. After the "wow cool" moment, he about poo poo his pants because he'd been holding it in place a few seconds beforehand. Impact sockets usually just crack and flex open.
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Apr 24, 2015 04:32
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gvibes posted:Do I need impact rated sockets as well? I've used Chrome a bunch and haven't broken one. The issue is that non-impact rated may explode when they do break. Wear eye protection and it might be fine.
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Apr 25, 2015 04:37
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asdf32 posted:I've used Chrome a bunch and haven't broken one. The issue is that non-impact rated may explode when they do break. Wear eye protection and it might be fine. They go bang and can make a bit of a mess, but as long as you wear eye pro and aren't trying to determine what size socket it is by smell, you should be fine. It's most just super surprising when it happens.
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Apr 25, 2015 07:01
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I was watching a DIY network remod show over the weekend, the worker was laying down 3/4 ply sheets over a concrete slab so that they could install hardwood flooring. The way the guy was fastening down the plywood to the slab caught my eye, instead of using tapcons or something like that, he was just shooting it with what looked like a framing nailer. Beside the powder actuated stuff, is there some sort of pneumatic nailer out there that will shoot into concrete? I'm interested in this because I have a similar project coming up. I have a sunken den that's on a slab and I am going to lay hardwood in it. I've already done a bedroom that is also on a slab and it was a huge pain in the rear end. It took me the better part of a day drilling holes with a hammer drill and then trying to sink tapcons without breaking the heads.
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Apr 27, 2015 17:51
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Sointenly posted:Beside the powder actuated stuff, is there some sort of pneumatic nailer out there that will shoot into concrete? Yep. Search for "wood-to-concrete nailer" or "t-nailer". These are smaller fasteners than the ones you'd be shooting in with power guns.
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Apr 27, 2015 18:03
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Does anyone have experience cutting aluminum on a wood router table? How about with wood bits? I just did some initial googling and it sounds possibly feasible. Specifically I want to copy a boat portlight frame (basically a 12"x5" oval with a cutout in the middle) in 0.25" 5086 aluminum. So I need to cut the outside with a band saw, cut the inside with a jigsaw I guess, then get an exact copy with the router (a bit with a bearing for copying). Then I want to roundover the outside edges. Thoughts? Or should I call up a machine shop and ask them?
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May 1, 2015 23:35
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5086 is some gummy, nasty poo poo. I can't see getting a good result cutting it by hand. On a cnc router, possibly. Speeds and feeds are pretty important and you may need oil to keep it from sticking to the cutter. You want a high positive rake, insanely sharp tool and take shallow side cuts. Rough everything as close as possible before finishing because it has a lot of internal stress from the work hardening. If it's annealed, just kill yourself now.
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May 2, 2015 03:21
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Thanks. Would other alloys make this significantly easier [I'm looking at McMaster sheets]? Though I'm going to quote a machine shop through the boatyard and see what they say. In general it seems like I could do some basic machining if I needed. But doing 4 of these fairly large parts is probably beyond realistic. The challenging part would be the inside cut. Presumably I can use the band saw to do a good job rough cutting the outside and leave little for the router, but the inside oval cut would have tighter radiuses and I couldn't use the band saw.
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May 2, 2015 14:51
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How perfect does it have to be? How good are you with a hand file?
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May 2, 2015 16:34
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Sorry meant to post in the woodworking thread...
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 21:49 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 21:38
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asdf32 posted:Does anyone have experience cutting aluminum on a wood router table? How about with wood bits? I just did some initial googling and it sounds possibly feasible. It was several years ago, so my memory is hazy, but I tried to do something like a roundover on aluminum L channel with a router table and it did not go well at all. Very sticky and gummy, like Oxbrain said. If you do give it a try, you'll want to approach it with the expectation that it will grab the workpiece and be prepared for it so you don't lose any fingers.
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May 4, 2015 15:06
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Awesome thread. I sold off a lot of my tools to finance life after a divorce (and I didnt need tools in an apartment), but am in the process of buying a house and need to build my kit back up. Its been a decade since I went tool shopping, so I am a bit behind on what's new and cool. First and foremost, is the Milwaukee 7 1/4 inch circular saw still the top of the homeowner-grade heap? I never bothered buying a table saw becasue that plus a couple of clamps and a straight board were all I needed for household stuff, including building a couple of mdf cabinets and a new porch. Also, is the tried and true extension ladder still the best workhorse, or have telescoping and multi-section adjustable (Little Giant type) ladders improved to the point that my 6'4 260lb rear end can be comfortable/safe on one?
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May 4, 2015 15:12
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7000 series aluminum is the bees knees though. It machines beautifully. I've worked it with wood bits that I don't plan to use for wood anymore, carbide mostly. Jigsaw goes through like butter, I lube it with a squirt of WD-40 sometimes in the thicker stuff, 0.25" would be right about the threshold for that. I don't know how it compares for corrosion resistance though. If your boat goes in salt water, I'd stick with the marine alloys and suck up the horrible gumminess.
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May 4, 2015 15:21
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stealie72 posted:Awesome thread. Sup brother from the same mother..... Ive got a erner folding multi position ladder and it sucks if you are on it for a long period of time.. boots help a lot.. I painted a few rooms with it in socks and never again. I think the load is 300lbs. Milwakre circular saw is the bomb for a not every day use.. its what I have.. And for a miter if you want a non slider I find my hitachi that you can get for 100 or less is good for weekend warrior stuff. Ive used a harbor freight slider and brought my hitachi because it was awful For coreless the m12 seems to be the hotness in this thread.. ive got a lot of old hitachi stuff but as the batteries die out illl probably upgrade to the m12s since they are litium. The m12s usually have good black friday or other sale packages.. usually buy a kit get a free tool. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 17:37
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stealie72 posted:Also, is the tried and true extension ladder still the best workhorse, or have telescoping and multi-section adjustable (Little Giant type) ladders improved to the point that my 6'4 260lb rear end can be comfortable/safe on one? I have a little giant and a folding Werner that belongs to my brother in law. I hate the Werner but it's like 3 feet longer and I only use it when I really need that extra 3 feet. Everyone but the crustiest of old dudes just love my little giant ladder. You can get them at costco, but as stated, put some shoes on.
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May 5, 2015 22:17
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tater_salad posted:For coreless the m12 seems to be the hotness in this thread.. ive got a lot of old hitachi stuff but as the batteries die out illl probably upgrade to the m12s since they are litium. The m12s usually have good black friday or other sale packages.. usually buy a kit get a free tool. For anything less stressful than sinking big lag bolts into beams or screwgunning a deck together, the little M12 impact bit driver is loving amazing. I have it and a little Wera rapidaptor that fits nicely inside the plastic case that I use for 90% off my home screw driving needs. It also works sweet in the datacenter for racking and unracking gear with a little 6" extension bit. The m18 hammer drill/impact driver kit is actually what I used to put together my 200 square ft deck, epoxy coated star drive screws are worth their weight in gold.
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May 5, 2015 23:59
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I guess this is the best place to ask. I need to get about 5 screws off the back of a camera lens. They are all phillips, about size 0, and they were locktited back in the early 1970s. They are not budging at all. I've already ruined more than one (cheap) screwdriver, and the only thing they seem to do is to cam out just a bit and start stripping the head of the screw. I've tried a soldering iron to the screw for even 20 seconds and they aren't moving at all. What's the next step?
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May 6, 2015 03:34
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Are they reverse thread?
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May 6, 2015 03:37
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mds2 posted:Are they reverse thread? they are regular threaded
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May 6, 2015 04:04
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A cursory Google says that there's a solvent for Loctite - Loctite Solvent 755. Acetone or methylene chloride would also work, apparently, but it would probably also solvate all the plastic. Do you know what grade of Loctite it was? If it was Red, then you may be borked
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May 6, 2015 04:51
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I managed to get one of the screws out, but I couldn't see any locktite on it. It's probably some weird 1970s era super japanese ultimate locktite.
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May 6, 2015 05:00
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Are they jis screws maybe? They look like Phillips but have straighter slots so they don't cam out. Some of my rc cars use them and it's a world of difference having a real jis screwdriver even if they look almost exactly the same.
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May 6, 2015 07:07
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I took a picture of the screw from the side to see if there was any threadlocker. Doesn't look like it. Looks like it's one of those straighter slots, but I've tried flat-heads jammed in there (bad idea, I know), and the only thing it does is gently caress the screwdriver.
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May 6, 2015 07:32
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:epoxy coated star drive screws are worth their weight in gold. Good thing I suppose, since they also cost about their weight in gold. 
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May 6, 2015 08:17
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gently caress yeah, this thing: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Weldtite-Teflon-Grease-Gun/dp/B00JQN50PM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1APX19WP4XR1V7ZZQ3WM EDIT: pretty sure it will fit the superlube teflon grease tubes too.
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May 6, 2015 14:54
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Have you tried the tiniest dab of valve grinding paste between the screw and the driver? It can increase friction enough to prevent cam-out. Making sure you have the perfect shaped screwdriver is the #1 priority tho.
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May 6, 2015 15:41
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Splizwarf posted:Good thing I suppose, since they also cost about their weight in gold. They're like twice the price of the non-star drive exterior deck screws. I would have paid 4x as much just for the sheer convenience of screws that stick to the bit and don't require 50 pounds of downforce to prevent camout.
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May 6, 2015 17:22
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I'm glad that I now have a name (camout) to call the thing that I do every god drat time.
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May 6, 2015 17:37
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Wild EEPROM posted:I took a picture of the screw from the side to see if there was any threadlocker. Doesn't look like it. I would seriously try a JIS screwdriver if you don't mind waiting for one on order since they're not particularly common. It makes a huge difference (and they work fine in regular phillips screws for the most part.) edit: I'm pretty sure camout is an intentional design feature of the phillips head to prevent over torquing?
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May 6, 2015 18:41
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powderific posted:edit: I'm pretty sure camout is an intentional design feature of the phillips head to prevent over torquing? Yeah, originally, but then it became the norm for everything, and I won't shed a single tear when it inevitably meets with oblivion.
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May 6, 2015 19:11
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powderific posted:edit: I'm pretty sure camout is an intentional design feature of the phillips head to prevent over torquing? It was a great idea in 1930. Then we invented torque limiting drivers. For some reason, they're still the de facto standard even though the primary design feature has been a disadvantage for half a century. Astonishing Wang posted:I'm glad that I now have a name (camout) to call the thing that I do every god drat time. Buy yourself a happiness starter pack.
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May 6, 2015 19:50
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Oooh yeah, Robertson 4 lyfe. I just had about 12 cub scouts putting together toolboxes. Because I am a jerk and I like to experiment on children, I gave some of them Philips drivers and some of them Robertson (Spax screw, takes either-or). Much higher success rate with the Robertson screws overall, but they found it a little harder to get the initial engagement because Philips just sort of falls into the slot. I had to show them how to tip the bit a little to get an edge in there.
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May 6, 2015 20:01
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