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Did you buy a forklift?
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Mar 28, 2015 19:46
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8ender posted:If you're going to do some conduit and outlets on the ceiling for those lights do yourself a favour and get some four gang boxes instead of two. I did this in my shop and being able to reach up and plug a power tool or hand light in almost everywhere is amazing. My place I live has a couple of outlets on the ceiling. Its awesome, I mounted a retractable cord reel, I pretty much grab it every time over plugging anything into the wall. Speaking of workshops, do any of your tools run 3 phase or is it all single phase?
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Mar 29, 2015 01:42
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Here's a meth 3-Rotor that my place of employment has done. https://instagram.com/p/iDLgL9w2yA/?taken-by=redline_performance They've been in the game since the 90's. Primaraly LS V8 style these days, but we've got a drat good rotary builder here that used to have his own shop down in San Diego. Its always a treat when one gets tuned here. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 04:10
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Here's a meth 3-Rotor that my place of employment has done. What's scary is how the chassis flexes when it hits boost.
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Apr 14, 2015 14:37
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Sigma X posted:What's scary is how the chassis flexes when it hits boost. Nah, the car is just squatting. Off road suspension is softer than street.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:41
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Sigma X posted:What's scary is how the chassis flexes when it hits boost. Spyder - where da forklift pics at, man?!?
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Apr 15, 2015 01:41
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The funny thing is that suspension looks pretty stiff to me... ... and I've been thinking Sigma X got a username change for months. NOW you tell us!?
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Apr 16, 2015 01:28
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For fucks sake. I was re tuning my idle on my half bridge 2 rotor and turned my AC back on in the software so I could tune the load. I did not realize that the fan option for the A/C nullifies the regular operation of the fans. The stock pressure cap started pissing coolant. I saw the steam and looked at my Autometer gauge at 240 F (or whatever the gently caress the line is between 210 and 250, it was slightly after that middle line, or it could have been on the line, parallax errors and all that). I shut it down and im letting it naturally cool. It has Pineapple racing HD seals, so I'm guessing I didn't toast a water seal. So how hosed am I? This is embarrassing and I'm going to have to ask the same question at work, id rather not though.
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Apr 16, 2015 05:48
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I have boiled stock port rotaries several times (on the track!) without popping anything serious inside. It depends on how hard you were pushing it and how quickly you shut it down. How did your oil temps do? Remember the whole center of the motor is only cooled by oil. Water isn't your only cooling system.
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Apr 16, 2015 14:53
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I don't know what the oil temp was and this all was at idle. I am running dual oil coolers.
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Apr 16, 2015 15:48
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Aeka 2.0 posted:For fucks sake. I was re tuning my idle on my half bridge 2 rotor and turned my AC back on in the software so I could tune the load. I did not realize that the fan option for the A/C nullifies the regular operation of the fans. The stock pressure cap started pissing coolant. I saw the steam and looked at my Autometer gauge at 240 F (or whatever the gently caress the line is between 210 and 250, it was slightly after that middle line, or it could have been on the line, parallax errors and all that). I shut it down and im letting it naturally cool. It has Pineapple racing HD seals, so I'm guessing I didn't toast a water seal. So how hosed am I? This is embarrassing and I'm going to have to ask the same question at work, id rather not though. You will get some nice coloring on the irons and possibly a bit of shrinkage of the housing- but that's on the extreme end (IE I was driving and just kept driving). Were you not under load? Those pineapple seals take a beating.
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May 12, 2015 04:35
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You guys miss me? I'm swamped with my new job and I needed to take a break and do something mindless, which means updating this thread. So. Let's see what's been going on. At some point last month I polished the black FC, cleaned the engine bay, and vacuumed in the interior. It made me not want to sell it, mainly because it's such a clean little car minus the fender dent.     No pictures of the actual car, but my friends-sisters Mazda Protege came back with sized front calipers and bad front wheel bearings. I can't express how much I hate this car. After I got the front drivers side axel free after an hour of work, my god drat light fell in the oil catch pan under the car my friend had put there to catch brake fluid.  Took it apart and it was soaked. It did not want to turn on. Que me ordering a replacement light and battery. Of course after it arrived, this decided to work again. Guess I have two now.  The passenger side never did break free on the car and we ended up pulling the axel/pressing the axel out on the press.   I decided to try scrubbing bubbles on a exhaust I bought used. Man this stuff is neat. This was just sprayed on and hosed off.    One random night my friend called me, the black Miata from pages back burst a heater core hose. So at 11pm at night, I drove 1.5 hours and fixed this in an orilleys parking lot. Thankfully a FD rear throttle body coolant hose fit perfectly.   Then I got called three days later and someone turned into her at a stop. Bad luck. It's being fixed with a new quarter panel by a good shop.  Before I went on my work trip I fixed the lower radiator hose on the Black 94 Single turbo car.    My sick rental car /sarcasm.  Which meant after I got back, we put it back together and got it running! We did have to replace the water pump and somehow I found a gasket buried in time for the owner to pick it up after a 5 hour drive here.   Last weekend we cleaned out one of the long term projects. It has some water intrusion issues, which meant mold and wet carpets. Uggg. Oh well, it looks like we have all the parts for now to at least get it started.    Sunday I decided the black FC needed the injectors cleaned. This turned into "well I might as well clean up the 5th and 6th port sleeves." First up, everything comes off. Note the faded yellow cap on the fuel rail for later.  Everything came apart easily and like most S4 cars, the drat thing had a paper gasket from the factory. Due to oil/fuel/grime, it's now glued to the aluminum manifold.  Easy part done.  Insert 3 hours of cursing, half a dozen razor blades destroyed, and eventually me giving in and getting out the scotchbrite disc+ gasket prep wheel. Much better.  That yellow cap? Yeah, that's the pulsation damper that likes to fail and kill these cars. Like most, the screw fell out. This isn't a huge issue, except when the screw punctures the diaphragm and leaks gas right on the hot exhaust manifold. I repaired this one with locktite/RTV- but you should buy a new OEM part or replace it with a banjo bolt.   Now I had some old Pineapple inserts laying around that I pulled from a core. Whomever installed it never peened them in place and they bounced back and forth- enough to wear that 1/4" groove in the front. I don't care about the damage and just filed it off.  Correctly peened in place.  The new S5 metal gasket so I never have to deal with that unholy paper hell again.  Not shown are the 3 cans of carb clean it took to clean that drat LIM and get the 5/6th port inserts to turn freely. Next up, installing the freshly cleaned injectors. the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:50 on May 12, 2015 |
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May 12, 2015 05:06
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Is that the Scrubbing Bubbles spray on shower cleaner? I use that poo poo on the shower but I never in a million years thought it would clean exhausts.
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May 13, 2015 04:53
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I too would like to inquire about this scrubbing bubbles product. I have cans under my bathroom sink, and I want to know if I now need to move them to my garage because that result looks great.
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May 13, 2015 15:39
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It works even better under your hood. I've had it turn years of gunked up dirt sludge into something that resembles dust. You give it a quick spritz with the hose after and it washes it all away. It even cleans out the crevices on connector bodies.
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May 13, 2015 17:46
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I've used it a few times to clean engine bays with miraculous results, like way better than engine degreaser. I'm going to try some on my bike this weekend and see if it shines up my headers.
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May 13, 2015 19:45
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I heard about scrubbing bubbles in AI years and years ago. It works especially well in dirty engine bays and while it leaves plastics a little shiny for my tastes for a nice car, it's great for the wife's car, or if you are trying to get nooks and crannies that can't easily be reached. The best is to get it at the big box or dollar stores when it's on sale because it can be kind of pricy and a can doesn't last THAT long.
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May 14, 2015 05:59
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My MS3 had a stub axle seize in a wheel bearing like that. Two shops tried and failed to extract it, so that dead wheel bearing cost me an axle, a knuckle, and a hub, too.
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May 14, 2015 06:21
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the spyder posted:You will get some nice coloring on the irons and possibly a bit of shrinkage of the housing- but that's on the extreme end (IE I was driving and just kept driving). Were you not under load? Those pineapple seals take a beating. It was all Idle as I was doing some idle tuning. The fans were not set right after turning the AC back on and I forgot to monitor that they would or would not come on since my face was buried in the laptop.
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May 14, 2015 20:15
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So, the next bit comes down to how tight your end play was/new vs used housings. There are too many factors to make a guess, but honestly, you're probably just fine. Since you were just sitting idle, there's almost no chance you blew anything- esp with Pineapple's seals. The cap did its job and saved your motor. You probably removed a few miles from it's life, but it's a rotary anyways. Haha.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:16 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 15, 2015 05:12
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What about the forklift!!
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May 15, 2015 06:12
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the spyder posted:So, the next bit comes down to how tight your end play was/new vs used housings. There are too many factors to make a guess, but honestly, you're probably just fine. Since you were just sitting idle, there's almost no chance you blew anything- esp with Pineapple's seals. The cap did its job and saved your motor. You probably removed a few miles from it's life, but it's a rotary anyways. Haha. I just now got around to starting it up again, so i guess we will find out. I did eventually talk to the engine builder here at work, he went into depth of what could happen, even how the apex seals wear during an overheat, he knew all the little nuances since he's been doing it forever.
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May 18, 2015 20:19
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After years of searching and several sold-out-from-under-me let downs... It's happening!     Now, the following questions must be decided: 1) What should it go in? 2) 100% Stupid = PP Turbo 3) 75% Stupid = PP with ITB's 4) 50% Stupid = Monster turbo/street port 5) What the hell, it's a 20B- let's dump the bitch in something and see if it will run! I guess those aren't really questions... just bad ideas requiring money. Forever broke 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 21:57 on May 26, 2015 |
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May 26, 2015 21:55
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the spyder posted:1) What should it go in? Roman's E36...
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May 26, 2015 22:12
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200% stupid - twin screw supercharger. 
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May 26, 2015 22:13
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With 3 rotors go half stupid.
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May 26, 2015 22:36
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the spyder posted:After years of searching and several sold-out-from-under-me let downs... It's happening! Put it in a Miata Cat Terrist will back me up here
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May 26, 2015 22:36
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Nodoze posted:Put it in a Miata Put it in one of those rare and funky Miata Coupés!
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May 26, 2015 22:43
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An NB with a hardtop kinda looks like a retarded baby Viper. So you must do this.
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May 27, 2015 00:42
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I don't see any FBs on your lot. You should remedy that by finding a shell to put that thing into.
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May 27, 2015 21:03
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Comedy option: dump it in a EF9/EF8
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May 27, 2015 21:19
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Nodoze posted:Put it in a Miata Holy mother of GOD, a 13 turbo in a MX5 can rearrange time and space, a 20B just.... gently caress me that just has "hit tree at stupid speed" written all over it. Absolutly great option! Now given a 20B has torque AND with say a monster bridge port and a decent turbo can easily go over 500Kw, an RX8 would be the natural home, the chassis handles the power decently well and becomes one mindblowingly fast car. Also works in a FC or FD..... but thats been done before but that's the sensible albeit extremely fast as in "kick the living poo poo out of supercars" fast options. Buuuuut for me I'd do this. 400Kw in a series III Gen 1, six speed from a RX8, Group C flare kit, wide track the front with rack / pinion inserted, graft in a FD rear subframe. Look into Group B AWD solution. Paint it ink black. It would look and sound utterly evil, be able to handle the power, be able to defy Einstein's famous equation and have every RADL worship the ground you stand on.
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May 27, 2015 22:37
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Cat Terrist posted:Holy mother of GOD, a 13 turbo in a MX5 can rearrange time and space, a 20B just.... gently caress me that just has "hit tree at stupid speed" written all over it. Absolutly great option! I remember you telling me how scary a rotary Miata was to drive, so I can only imagine how godly a 20B NA Miata would be
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May 27, 2015 23:04
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Cat Terrist posted:Buuuuut for me I'd do this. 400Kw in a series III Gen 1, six speed from a RX8, Group C flare kit, wide track the front with rack / pinion inserted, graft in a FD rear subframe. Look into Group B AWD solution. Paint it ink black. It would look and sound utterly evil, be able to handle the power, be able to defy Einstein's famous equation and have every RADL worship the ground you stand on. I agree with this crazy fucker. Alternatively toss it in super light tube frame and struggle to ever find grip.
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May 28, 2015 00:25
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I'll just leave this here.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osJSoen8hxQ So going by you buying a 20B and not making one, have i been lied to that you can just bolt Mazda rotaries together to make bigger engines? Is it not possible to simply bolt two 13Bs together? (I was told some years ago that the crank isn't a single piece, and so a number of blocks can be combined to make a larger engine.) Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 00:36 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 00:30
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I should take a picture of the two 12a's bolted together at the shop. You can indeed bolt two together and the two rotor motors all used a one piece crank. The three rotor uses a two piece crank. You can also machine front and rear irons to turn them into a 3 rotor- you just need the shaft and thick center plate.
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May 28, 2015 01:02
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the spyder posted:I should take a picture of the two 12a's bolted together at the shop. You can indeed bolt two together and the two rotor motors all used a one piece crank. The three rotor uses a two piece crank. You can also machine front and rear irons to turn them into a 3 rotor- you just need the shaft and thick center plate. Oh, cool! Looking at rotary stuff, some of it is sooooo cheap over here. Especially (complete) RX-8s and later 13Bs/Renesis engines. Making a 26B would be great fun, but i know practically nothing about rotaries.
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May 28, 2015 01:06
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Nodoze posted:I remember you telling me how scary a rotary Miata was to drive, so I can only imagine how godly a 20B NA Miata would be I dont know of anyone that outright crazy. If they have, they have balls too big to fit in the car.
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May 28, 2015 01:22
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http://southrnfresh.com/2014/02/the-build-of-a-danny-irvines-20b-miata/
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May 28, 2015 01:29
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Ummmm.... faaaark. I'd think it would be more insane in a NA rather than the heavier NC but cant argue with that
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May 28, 2015 14:52
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