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I haven't actually used my AC since about when I got the car, and just realized this weekend that it's definitely not blowing cold anymore. Popped the hood, looks like there's a little oil residue around the mounting point right beside the high pressure line. Figure I've probably got a slow leak coming from there, and should probably change the o-ring. Buuuut I can't find a part number. Here's the diagram, #11 is the piece I'm looking for. I wasn't able to find it on subaru parts depot, and they don't even list it in the parts list there for some raisin. Anyone have an idea of what it is?
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May 11, 2015 20:09
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The complete o-ring seal kit is under $10 from Rock Auto, so it may not be worth the effort to track down that one particular part.
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May 11, 2015 20:51
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bull3964 posted:The complete o-ring seal kit is under $10 from Rock Auto, so it may not be worth the effort to track down that one particular part. Good looking out; for those of you that have done A/C maintenance, am I correct in thinking I may as well replace all the gaskets on the high and low lines, then run a vacuum pump to clear out the lines/test the seals, then refill with R-134a?
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May 11, 2015 21:20
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:
Look at getting the A1RM instead. They won't squeak and they pull the car up really well.
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May 11, 2015 21:58
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Dropped the car off for service at the dealer today with a leaky turbo inlet, expecting it to be fixed under warranty. Called me back to tell me I have rod knock (they hadn't even looked at the inlet?) and my warranty is being denied. This should be fun. 57k on the clock.
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May 11, 2015 22:35
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Leaking turbo inlet can be responsible for the rod knock and/or cracked pistons. Unmetered air causes a lean condition and breaks things. Yes there is knock correction and afr feedback but it can only do so much.
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May 12, 2015 00:24
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Yeah, it'll be interesting to hear the argument for cause. That is entirely reasonable, but if that's the case, it should be warrantied because the turbo inlet is covered I would imagine. Car has an accessport though, so they're in militant defense mode presently. DAM is 1 and nothing showing in FKL. APM did a comp test and said it was 130 across the board. We'll see. Subaru in NJ did approve me for a rental, so they aren't completely hosing me so far. Since absolutely nobody does it, but I would - what's a guess on the cost to drop a straight up stock shortblock replacement in, with no other mods? Seems the blocks are still 1800-1900 range, but everyone seems to end up doing new pistons/injectors/yadayada while they're doing it, so prices on labor aren't clear. If it comes down to it, is there anything I really should do at the same time? Do the heads need to be cleaned/etc, or can they just be moved over to a new SB?
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May 12, 2015 00:32
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:
BrakesDirect is actually run by the GSL guys, so you're good to go there. Also note that rotor orders are singles, so don't end up with 1 of each.  When I emailed them for a quote with DBA rotors/Bendix GCT pads, they recommended the HPX instead and gave them to me for $65 instead of $80, which was nice. HPX is better than the GCT anyway, I just went with them originally to save costs. And yeah, the A1RM pads are a good upgrade if you want something better. My Forester is just a boring commuter and kid transporter, so I didn't bother.
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May 12, 2015 03:46
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Hows the noise with them? I have heard GFM tend to be noisy.
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May 12, 2015 03:57
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Hows the noise with them? I have heard GFM tend to be noisy. Seems fine, but I always put this anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads just in case: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/DynaGrip-Disc-Brake-Squeal-Free-118mL.aspx?pid=1061#Recommendations I've never sure if Subaru's actually need the brake pad shims that are mentioned in the service manual, or if that's just something you need with OEM pads. Some pads say you need them, some say you don't. Since they were missing on my Forester when I went to replace the pads the first time, I just used the anti-squeal. I think there's a spray too, but the goop was all I found at SuperCheap.
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May 12, 2015 08:16
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My belt is squeaking at startup with the AC on when its wet/humid out. It goes away after a few seconds. New belt? Should I replace the tensioner? I think its a little weird that it's doing this with only 50k miles.
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May 12, 2015 11:55
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FogHelmut posted:My belt is squeaking at startup with the AC on when its wet/humid out. It goes away after a few seconds. New belt? Should I replace the tensioner? I think its a little weird that it's doing this with only 50k miles. Check the belt tension and tighten if needed, apply belt dressing, check belts for cracks/wear. Replace at your 60K service.
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May 12, 2015 12:40
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Hows the noise with them? I have heard GFM tend to be noisy. I think I heard the A1RMs once over about 2 years of driving, that includes driving down Mt Buller at -2 degrees.
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May 12, 2015 12:59
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My apologies if this has been covered in the last month or so, with weather warming up everywhere, but what's the consensus on those $45 AC recharge bottles from the auto parts store? I've heard moderate success from most people that have used them, but I've also heard that non-functioning AC can be due to more than just a lack of freon gas. Is there anything I can check under the hood before I go out and buy one? Is it worth it handing it over to a shop that specializes in AC etc.? I'd rather pay $45 for decently good AC than $2-300 for really good AC. I'd also like to be able to sell this car at the end of the summer, with around 220k, and proudly be able to say "everything works".
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May 12, 2015 18:47
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Not good. You can't put the correct amount of refrigerant in. Need to have the system vacuumed, leak tested, and filled by weight.
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May 12, 2015 19:00
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Oof, and my wife goes for the cheap shot and sends me this from Costco, "I found a motor for you" 
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May 12, 2015 19:17
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si posted:Oof, and my wife goes for the cheap shot and sends me this from Costco, "I found a motor for you" Your spouse owns.
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May 12, 2015 19:54
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 Welp.
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May 12, 2015 23:13
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The focus on your camera broke?
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May 12, 2015 23:25
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I can't quite tell, what is it powered by? The branding could be a little more clear.
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May 13, 2015 01:56
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jamal posted:Not good. You can't put the correct amount of refrigerant in. Need to have the system vacuumed, leak tested, and filled by weight. Assuming you've got a manifold gauge set and a vacuum, you could completely empty and recharge yourself with the cans though, yeah? My '04 Impreza has a capacity of .5 +/- .05 kg of R-134a, and an 18 oz. can clocks in at .51 kilos of refrigerant, so wouldn't that be pretty much spot on? Making sure I'm not missing anything for my own benefit <3.
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May 13, 2015 02:06
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They sell Subaru mowers here They sound a lot more like the real thing than hondas do as well, can't make fun of them any more 
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May 13, 2015 02:13
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So I did this last week: Loving it so far, about 260 miles on it as of now so I haven't really flogged it yet. Everything about it is better than the '11 WRX I had so far. It has the upgraded stereo, nav, push start, keyless entry whatnot which is cool. I wanted the short shifter but since it's a daily driver I'm not sure I really need a shorter throw. I'd like to drive an STI with a short throw to really decide on that. I never thought I would want a silver car but I fell in love with this one. They also had a galaxy blue limited there but the full leather, worse looking wheels(imo), and moonroof wasn't worth the extra $4k imo.
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May 13, 2015 23:24
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So HVAC has been a hot topic lately. I went to replace the o-rings around the compressor today and found my high pressure hose has a leak (PN 73421FE001). What are the low price places to get parts?
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May 14, 2015 02:33
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Shrapnig posted:So I did this last week: I'd love regular trip reports on this, since I plan on getting a new WRX in 2017-18.
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May 15, 2015 03:40
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Shrapnig posted:So I did this last week: Welcome to the 2015 club.
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May 15, 2015 05:38
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The Mandingo posted:I'd love regular trip reports on this, since I plan on getting a new WRX in 2017-18. Oh? I've got a 2015 that I've had for a year now, put 8k miles on, and 3 HPDE events. (and 3 more planned through the rest of the year) What would you like to know? 
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May 15, 2015 16:51
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I'm interested in maintenance costs and reliability, also thoughts on build quality, any interior or exterior things that bother you, and how do you feel about "bang for the buck" on the car. Right now I have a 2010 Civic, and it's really reliable and maintenance costs are low, plus fuel is 25/30 city/highway but it's boring as hell, the interior is blah, and there's an annoying rattle from the overhead reading light that annoys the hell out of me.
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May 15, 2015 17:16
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The Mandingo posted:I'm interested in maintenance costs and reliability, also thoughts on build quality, any interior or exterior things that bother you, and how do you feel about "bang for the buck" on the car. Right now I have a 2010 Civic, and it's really reliable and maintenance costs are low, plus fuel is 25/30 city/highway but it's boring as hell, the interior is blah, and there's an annoying rattle from the overhead reading light that annoys the hell out of me. If it's just a street car, you'll just need oil changes. Most people seem to recommend a very aggressive oil change interval, since its turbo runs very hot, and it only takes 4.5 quarts, so it can shear through the oil rather quickly. I've been doing them every 3-4k miles or so, but I'm also tracking the car, so if you are just street driving like a sane person, should be able to go longer than that. I've destroyed my brakes, and got hawk HP+'s based on reviews saying they are great for track days. This might be true if you are slow, but i destroyed an entire set in 1 day, boiled the torque rt700 fluid, and burn all the dust guards on the brembo caliper pistons. I had to step up to Hawk DTC60, and still having heat issues, but if you driving at a slower pace, you'll be fine. For the street, the brakes are fine and totally overkill. Its only on the track where's the brembo's might not keep up. I only paid $33k for my STI, base with no options, $36k out the door with taxes and a $750 truck delivery across the country. I don't think I'd want to pay any more than that. Interior is fine, a few squeaks and rattles, but nothing major. comes and goes with the weather. Seats have absolutely no lumbar support, so i can only drive for an hour straight before my back kills me, everyone in the car says the same thing. Alcantara and leather seats seem high quality besides that, seat heaters are weaksauce and i barely feel them, heat is very weak till you do a few WOT pulls to get heat into the engine/turbo, A/C is kinda weak also, takes a while to get cold on hot days. Oem STI shifter sucks, you must replace with kartboy or something else for decent shifting. Gas pedal is soft like butter, makes it very challenging to drive smooth, but makes heel toeing decently easy. I am playing with putting different springs in my gas pedal, haven't found the right stiffness yet. Stereo sucks. Don't have nav or infotainment but it supposedly sucks, new system for 2016 i think? Decently quiet otherwise. Very low/minimal vibrations from the engine, boxer engine is much smoother than an inline 4 cylinder engine, basically just as smooth as a bmw straight 6. LED low beams are AMAZING, seriously, amazing headlights. Doesn't throw as far as the best xenon's, but the fill inside their throw distance is amazing. much better color quality too. Steering wheel is great, space is good, good sized trunk. Gas is not so great, averaging 19 or so, get up to 25 on the highway, get around 7 or so on the track...........
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May 15, 2015 17:36
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So now 5 days at the dealer and no determination on what's going on. It's been referred to inspectors/"master techs" with SoA, and they've apparently been documenting/inspecting the car for days now. I'm expecting an incredibly well documented denial at this point. I wonder if they've actually fixed the inlet leak I took it in for?
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May 15, 2015 17:43
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crazzy posted:HP+s I did practically the same in a Miata. I will never understand why people like or recommend the HP+. It's the worst compromise of features I can imagine. Loud and dusty like a race pad. Short lived and over heats like s street pad. They aren't even that cheap so that can't be the excuse.
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May 15, 2015 19:42
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nm posted:Have you reset the ecu? I finally figured out the problem as I popped a check engine light on the way home last night. ECU reset didn't do anything. The code I got was P0031, which is the front oxygen sensor heater control circuit. The OEM, from what I've been able to find online, seems to be Bosch. Where is the best place to get a new one? I've also seen conflicting info on whether or not I need a sensor wrench to pull it out, is it doable without getting the special tool? '08 LGT. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 22:34 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 15, 2015 22:13
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So it looks like I hosed up the installation of the Right side camshaft on my WRX. When i torqued the the gear onto the camshaft, it must not have been lined up corectly. Who knew that you could push in the pin? See the top vs the bottom. Also, the thing was wiggling and messed up the gear a little bit. (compare the top to the bottom.) I assume that I'm screwed and need a new camshaft and gear. Are they any issues with just buying a used one off NASIOC and putting it in?  
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May 16, 2015 18:04
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I'd start by trying to pull the dowel back out. Otherwise yeah you can change a single cam. Won't even be hard at that point.
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May 16, 2015 18:51
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75-90 for diffs on a non-turbo manual?
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May 16, 2015 20:15
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Pretty much. Extra S is the go to recommendation, turbo/nonturbo doesn't matter, only have to watch out for the STI that requires special lsd oil, but that was only for a short year range, 06-07 maybe?
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May 16, 2015 21:00
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Fumoto people: Do you have the F105? I've got it, and it's sticking partway in. I've got it straight, I've tried putting it in maybe 10 times just in case I don't, and it's not working. I think I'm just going to return it. It's also cutting my ground clearance, and my oil pan is already the lowest part of my car, having it even lower sounds like a recipe for disaster next time I take it on a rocky road. I'm just so diappointed, I was looking forward to not getting oil all over my sockets and not having the plug flip my stupid drain pan's filter, submerging both like it has both times I've used it.
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May 17, 2015 19:20
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I think mine was an F-108 on the 2011 Legacy, but a quick google shows that is a 16mm thread. It is easily the lowest part off the oilpan but there is a crossmember or something forward of it which was lower than that, so I wasn't concerned.
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May 17, 2015 20:00
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I have F-105N, which is the same as F-105 but with the nipple. It went in just fine for me. Are you sure it's going in straight? It's an awkward angle, and easy to accidentally cross-thread. Try turning counter-clockwise to make sure that the threads are seated properly before screwing it in. The end of the nipple winds up at the same height as my oil pan.
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May 17, 2015 21:24
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I'll give it another shot then.
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May 17, 2015 21:41
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