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I don't know how many little plastic planes I've stuck together in my life (including ancient Airfix ones) but I'm going to nominate the Testors 1/48th Supermarine S6B's wing-to-fuselage as the worst I've ever seen. If you hold it up you can see daylight through it FFS 
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May 15, 2015 14:30
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Yeah putty is basically a requirement when making these older kits.
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May 15, 2015 15:21
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Anyway, last time around this discussion ended with me resolving to paint a king tiger with ambush camo plaid. Still working on that because I got busy building two other tanks and the SDF Macross. Totally want to see it now though.
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May 15, 2015 17:45
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Arquinsiel posted:I think Revell colours are sold near me and postage from here is dirt cheap so if I remember on Monday when I'll be going past the toy shop that stocks the stuff I'll just sort you out with the right pots. Thank you very much! That would be great - though don't feel obligated. I'm going to go through my existing paints/possibly order more paint and see if I can find an attractive splinter combo. I shall check around fabric shops and hardware stores for mesh, meanwhile... Sanguine posted:Close enough is not only good enough, but most likely quite accurate. And then you have to mix in color fading for scale, let alone that the original paint has not been redone since it left the factory a few years before... Yeah, I think just trying to figure out what looks right is the best approach. I mean, this German modeller took the same route, I think, and the results are pretty sharp: 
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May 15, 2015 18:44
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Soviet painting instructions tell you to use brick dust or mud if you can't find brown paint. There is no point in being picky about shades.
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May 15, 2015 19:12
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Pierzak posted:Paint Soviet hardware and accuse all complainers of defeatism, reactionism and sabotage of the glorious people's arms industry I believe the period-correct term is "wrecking." You'd know that if you weren't a filthy kulak. Fearless fucked around with this message at 02:29 on May 16, 2015 |
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May 16, 2015 02:22
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Nebakenezzer posted:Can I complain about historical paint for a moment? RLM 73 : VMC 896 Ger. Cam. Extra Dark Green RLM 74 : VMC 867 Dark Bluegrey RLM 75 : VMC 869 Basalt Grey And the Model Air versions are RLM 73 : VMA 71016 US Dark Green RLM 74 : VMA 71054 Dark Blue Grey RLM 75 : VMA 71128 Grey Violet 
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May 16, 2015 03:14
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Deanut Pancer posted:According to the Vallejo conversion charts, the closest Model Colours are Thanks for this; it turns out I have three of those colors 
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May 16, 2015 17:19
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Starting work on an Accurate Miniatures 1:48 Yak-1, the Lillia Litvyak version. The instructions are amazing, the kit looks amazingly over engineered and detailed for its scale and...  Easy to remove but what the poo poo, there's the whole inside surface of the wings or fuselage you could have put that on.
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May 16, 2015 21:15
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Nebakenezzer posted:Thanks for this; it turns out I have three of those colors
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May 16, 2015 21:31
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Arquinsiel posted:You still want me to take a look on Monday for the Revell colours then? There's no need to go finding mesh for me BTW, they really are dirt cheap paints. No, that's ok, if they are dirt cheap then I imagine I can scrounge better. Thanks for the offer, though! It is much appreciated.
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May 16, 2015 22:30
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Sauer posted:Starting work on an Accurate Miniatures 1:48 Yak-1, the Lillia Litvyak version. The instructions are amazing, the kit looks amazingly over engineered and detailed for its scale and... It's a good anti-copy measure, since it makes it difficult to remold without either clear evidence of copying or potential damage to the panel detail through crappy machining. plus, most modelers will just file it off, anyway.
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May 16, 2015 23:00
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Drunk modeling (sober posting) on the king tiger that never ends. Working on the engine compartment no one will ever see. The titty-gnoll is to prop up the rear piece while the glue dries. She is evidently interested in engine maintenance. Painting tank guts is oddly therapeutic. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 04:28 on May 17, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 04:26
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Itty Bitty Radio!   First time using Photo-Etch. Its sort of annoyingly fragile and most of it is in places you'll never see. There's a half dozen pieces just for the rudder pedals which aren't visible unless you're sitting in the cockpit. Not going to be using most of it since the AMT Yak-1 is already ridiculously detailed. Going to use the radiator grates, seat belts and cockpit panels mostly, the rest of it is less detailed that what came with the kit. ^^ There is no reason titty gnoll can't be the commander of your tank. Get her a cool hat and plop her in the commander's hatch. Sauer fucked around with this message at 05:34 on May 17, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 05:30
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Trying it out a bunch more I'm finding Future to be the best thinner for Vallejo paints. Even better than their name brand stuff. Works almost as well as their own thinner but also leaves a really nice smooth satin finish that is nearly indestructible. Might be placebo effect but it also seems to cause a lot less dry tip.
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May 18, 2015 04:58
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Cockpit is done on Yellow 44. Accurate Miniatures were nuts. There's almost as many pieces in the cockpit as there are in the rest of the kit. I need to get something that isn't a cell phone camera at some point though. The colors look completely flattened. I went with a blue gray for the majority of the cockpit instead of the RLM 2 recommended in the instructions since I can't find a single picture of a Yak-1 that didn't have a gray pit. Sub-panels are in a much darker gray to add contrast. I used the highly scientific IL-2 Battle of Stalingrad as the reference for level and trim wheel colors. The positioning of the cannon shell return chute in this model would imply that the spent cannon shells were simply dumped into a bin between the pilot's legs. Anyone know if that's the case. Be amusing if the pilot pushed negative Gs.   Witcher 3 is out today so I think we can forget doing anything else on this for while. Sauer fucked around with this message at 11:06 on May 18, 2015 |
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May 18, 2015 10:56
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Sauer posted:Cockpit is done on Yellow 44. Accurate Miniatures were nuts. There's almost as many pieces in the cockpit as there are in the rest of the kit. I need to get something that isn't a cell phone camera at some point though. The colors look completely flattened. I went with a blue gray for the majority of the cockpit instead of the RLM 2 recommended in the instructions since I can't find a single picture of a Yak-1 that didn't have a gray pit. Sub-panels are in a much darker gray to add contrast. I used the highly scientific IL-2 Battle of Stalingrad as the reference for level and trim wheel colors. The positioning of the cannon shell return chute in this model would imply that the spent cannon shells were simply dumped into a bin between the pilot's legs. Anyone know if that's the case. Be amusing if the pilot pushed negative Gs. That's totally mint. Looks great. You've put a gently caress load more effort into cock pits than I can ever be arsed to do.
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May 18, 2015 21:02
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So, I've recently gotten into this scale model thing as well. Due to availability issues and a general lack of decent hobby stores(I'm in Belgium) I'm kinda stuck with the Revell stuff generally available in stores here, and I'm slowly learning as I go along. I've mainly gotten their 1:144 and 1:72 scale planes, and for christmas I got a Volkswagen Kastenwagen I haven't gotten around to yet. So far I've assembled a few kits, but my main issue lies with correctly applying the decals: I seem to have trouble properly aligning them or making sure they stay in place(and in some cases they seem to vanish shortly after applying, mainly the small ones). Any tips or am I at the mercy of plopping them down according to the instructions and hoping I aligned them right? Recent example(although it's 1:450 and I got it because it was dirt cheap):  I only discovered I put the long decal on this kit on a bit too far backwards when I got around to putting on the front bits(not shown in this picture) and I have no idea if it's safe to try and peel off the decal and re-apply somehow. I'm currently working on the Revell 1:144 F-14A Tomcat and I'd like to avoid misaligned stuff, I'm kinda obsessed with details like that.
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May 20, 2015 17:19
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Smoke posted:So far I've assembled a few kits, but my main issue lies with correctly applying the decals: I seem to have trouble properly aligning them or making sure they stay in place(and in some cases they seem to vanish shortly after applying, mainly the small ones). Any tips or am I at the mercy of plopping them down according to the instructions and hoping I aligned them right? Decals go better on glossy than flat surfaces. The main tip is to use water with dish liquid in it for placing the decals. If you wet the surface with that solution and then apply the decal, you can move it around plenty without worrying about tearing. The other two thing that can help with decals are decal setting solutions. In North America we have micro-sol and micro-mark - I'm not sure what they use in Europe.
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May 20, 2015 17:29
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Nebakenezzer posted:Decals go better on glossy than flat surfaces. The main tip is to use water with dish liquid in it for placing the decals. If you wet the surface with that solution and then apply the decal, you can move it around plenty without worrying about tearing. The other two thing that can help with decals are decal setting solutions. In North America we have micro-sol and micro-mark - I'm not sure what they use in Europe. You can get micro-sol and micro-set here in Holland.
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May 20, 2015 17:33
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Micro-set is mandatory on all decals I apply for the exact reasons you mentioned and it never hurts to follow up with micro-sol to really get the decal to form fit to the curves and panel lines. Good stuff.
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May 21, 2015 02:26
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SkunkDuster posted:Micro-set is mandatory on all decals I apply for the exact reasons you mentioned and it never hurts to follow up with micro-sol to really get the decal to form fit to the curves and panel lines. Good stuff. Micro-Sol is just a stronger version of Micro-Set, so if you're going to use Sol in the end, you might as well just start with it and skip the Set.
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May 21, 2015 02:38
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For those who's backlogs are dangerously near manageable, Sprune Brothers is having a summer inventory sale.
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May 21, 2015 20:49
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Nebakenezzer posted:For those who's backlogs are dangerously near manageable, Sprune Brothers is having a summer inventory sale. Lucky for me they don't appear to sell wooden boats.
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May 22, 2015 00:53
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God help me somebody talk me out of buying an IL-2 Sturmovik... ...did I say talk me out of? I meant recommend me a brand or specific IL-2 model. edit-- actually, this looks like the only IL-2 in the sale. http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/aca12286.htm I don't really like the skis, I may just buy another tank... Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 03:57 on May 22, 2015 |
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May 22, 2015 03:54
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COOL CORN posted:God help me somebody talk me out of buying an IL-2 Sturmovik... I bought the Accurate Miniatures IL-2 winter version with skis. I haven't had a chance to put it together, but there are wheels on the sprue, even though they are not mentioned in the manual. Edit: oh that is an Accurate Miniatures rebrand. I haven't seen any others in 1:48th scale.
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May 22, 2015 04:06
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"EALRY VERSION" does not inspire confidence.
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May 22, 2015 04:46
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Does anybody have a recommended brand for a SH-60B Seahawk?
everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 06:51 on May 22, 2015 |
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May 22, 2015 06:49
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COOL CORN posted:God help me somebody talk me out of buying an IL-2 Sturmovik... Tamiya and Italeri has the Il-2 in 1/48 scale too though If I recall the Italeri is a Accurate Minatures reboxing. The Tamiya kit is an all new mould and from what I hear its a very good kit. http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM61113 https://www.hlj.com/product/ita2657/Air everythingWasBees posted:Does anybody have a recommended brand for a SH-60B Seahawk?
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May 22, 2015 07:03
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COOL CORN posted:God help me somebody talk me out of buying an IL-2 Sturmovik... I've built the AM Il-2 and it's a nice model. It does come with wheels (at least the version I built), but the skis are a fine option - they don't have the right trimming instructions for the gear braces, though, so make sure you eyeball before you cut. From memory it says to cut 4 mm off and you really only need to take about 2mm off. It is an early Il-2, though, from when they decided they didn't need a gunner in the back. If you're jonesing for a gun out the back window try another kit. 
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May 22, 2015 09:48
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everythingWasBees posted:Does anybody have a recommended brand for a SH-60B Seahawk? Italeri 1/48 is pretty good, and dirt cheap as well. 
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May 22, 2015 17:45
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My Father in Law has just returned from holiday after reading a book on the Long Range Desert Group and has just given me a 1:35 Tamiya Chevrolet CWT 30 truck and asked me to make it up for his upcoming birthday. I'm really happy how it's coming along so far, it's a bit different as I've only done tanks at this scale (i.e all enclosed boxes) and the 1:48 planes you've seen earlier in the thread. I bought some resin after market parts from Resicast and a Breda 20mm canon to mount in the rear compartment and so far we're looking like this:  
big_g fucked around with this message at 23:43 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 09:33
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big_g posted:My Father in Law has just returned from holiday after reading a book on the Long Range Desert Group and has just given me a 1:35 Tamiya Chevrolet CWT 30 truck and asked me to make it up for his upcoming birthday. Nice. If I wasn't busy building kits for wargaming purposes I'd go out and get a 1/35 kit with a bunc of after-market extras, just to try it out. It seems that there are not so many such parts for 1/48, at least not that I can find. E: Now I know what I'll be doing this summer 1 x Brass Sheet 0.010in Thick (2 piece) SM2 (ALBSM2) = £4.69 1 x Italeri 1/48 Opel Blitz Kfz. 305 Truck # 6606 (ITL6606) = £12.82 1 x Tamiya 1/48 German Panzerkampfwagen 38(t) Ausf.E/F # 32583 (TMY32583) = £11.69 1 x Tamiya 1/48 Kubelwagen Type 82 (Africa) # 32503 (TMY32503) = £9.89 1 x Eduard 1/48 Messerschmitt Bf109E-1 Weekend Edition # 84164 (EDRK84164) = £12.59 lilljonas fucked around with this message at 20:04 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 11:13
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lilljonas posted:Nice. If I wasn't busy building kits for wargaming purposes I'd go out and get a 1/35 kit with a bunc of after-market extras, just to try it out. It seems that there are not so many such parts for 1/48, at least not that I can find. Christ, with my current timescales that's at least 12 months of work. big_g fucked around with this message at 23:36 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 22:50
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lilljonas posted:Nice. If I wasn't busy building kits for wargaming purposes I'd go out and get a 1/35 kit with a bunc of after-market extras, just to try it out. It seems that there are not so many such parts for 1/48, at least not that I can find.
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May 25, 2015 23:26
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Stuff in The Pile:
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May 25, 2015 23:34
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Hahahaha are we doing to-do lists now? 1/48: Tamiya: P-51D, IL-2 , A6M Zero ICM: U-2/Po-2VS 1/35 Dragon: Marder 3, Hetzer, Kettenkrad Takom: KV-5 Tamiya: Sherman Firefly, Super Pershing, IS-3, M3 Grant, Cromwell, BT-7, Leopard 2 A6 Hobbyboss: T-26 Trumpteer: BM-21 Grad, T-64A Granted my backlog wouldn't be so huge if I wasn't still working on doing a high quality build of a 1/350 USS Gambier Bay for the past year 
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May 26, 2015 05:28
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Plastic models on my list of things to do:
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May 26, 2015 08:05
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Raskolnikov38 posted:Hahahaha are we doing to-do lists now? Well, my to-do list also includes large parts of a 28mm scale Stalino, or at least about two dozen buildings from Stalino and various other terrain features. :P That was just my recent shopping list. I also have built but not yet painted: Tamiya 1/48 German 8-Wheeled Heavy Armored Car Sd.Kfz.232 Italeri 1/48 8.8cm Flak 37 Anti Aircraft Gun Tamiya 1/48 Sd. Kfz. 251/1 Ausf. D Once I've done all this chaff I'm going to treat myself to a big tank kit, maybe a Tiger or Jagdpanther. Not sure if I'll do it as a 1/48 for the wargaming stuff or as a 1/35 kit and go all out with the details and stuff.
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May 26, 2015 08:26
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Arquinsiel posted:Wow, those are some dirt cheap kits Yeah, there are a lot of cheap stores in the US as well, but the risk of getting a random 40 bucks extra charge from custom keeps me buying from UK shops. There's a local hobby shop just around the corner from me, but their 1/48 range sucks and the kits are twice as expensive. Might get a plane from them some day just to support them though.
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May 26, 2015 08:27
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