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I bought a 2000 323iT as a beater for $2500 last week. The parts have started going on...    New FCABs / Control Arms New Tierod Ends New RTABs + Limiters Koni SA dampers Two window regulators ATE Super Gold brake fluid
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May 6, 2015 19:42
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BlackMK4 posted:I bought a 2000 323iT as a beater for $2500 last week. Hey fellow new to you $2500 beater wagon buddy.  The GFs cat things I need a new turbo and smother bits. http://youtu.be/SjzoKp-BQOg Edit: also clayed out the cone marks from the other weekend as well. I think I'm going to start putting painters tape on the side makers and stuff. It's a pain to get cone off of. 
Sadi fucked around with this message at 03:18 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 02:47
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Got the alignment done at the tire factory. They were supposed to bleed the brakes, but they said they had no luck. It requires a special tool to get the air out of the abs. They also said I had a leak at the caliper, but if they started digging in they are required to fix everything or else have it towed or whatever for liability reasons. So I took it home. Truck handles great with all the new bushings, balljoints and steering. Got home and took the brake line off the leaky caliper, flipped the washer and bolted it back up. No more leak. Bled the brakes like normal. Then after some searching online I took it out to a gravel road and slammed on the brakes about 4 times to slide and engage the abs. This pushed the air out of the abs module. Brakes are good now. Saved a lot of money not taking it to the dealer so they could hook some specialty tool up to it that opens the abs module electronically to get the air out.
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May 8, 2015 03:46
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BlackMK4 posted:I bought a 2000 323iT as a beater for $2500 last week. This kinda makes me want to buy the 323iT that I see with a "For Sale" sign in the window during my daily commute. I bet it's an auto, though 
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May 8, 2015 04:23
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The other day I decided to try out a glass compound on my windscreen. It wasn't that bad anyway so I'm not exactly how much of a difference it really made but it definitely feels shinier and clearer  Then I followed it up with a coat of Rain-X so now I actually kinda want it to rain, even though my car is black.
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May 9, 2015 03:36
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This kinda makes me want to buy the 323iT that I see with a "For Sale" sign in the window during my daily commute. I bet it's an auto, though This is too. I'm picking up all of the parts to swap a ZF320 from a 328i in on Monday. $700. The 323 is an aluminum block m52 and very similar to the m54. You can pick up a lot of cheap power with a header/exhaust/tune (BMW neutered the car) and a cam from a m54. I'm trying not to turn this thing into a trackwagon but.... BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:19 on May 9, 2015 |
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May 9, 2015 04:13
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Did the 3m headlight treatment. My beams were looking a bit jaundiced and nothing makes a car look old like cloudy headlights. They turned out pretty good.
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May 9, 2015 17:52
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I need to do that to the Miata.
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May 10, 2015 03:39
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Did the 3m headlight treatment. My beams were looking a bit jaundiced and nothing makes a car look old like cloudy headlights. Was gonna do my headlights soon too. Anyone have any suggestions for compound pads with a drill adapter?
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May 10, 2015 04:12
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After you buff out the headlights I'd recommend throwing some lamin-x (or similar) film over the lenses, otherwise you'll be right back to hazy/yellow headlights in 6 months to a year.
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May 10, 2015 04:29
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Was gonna do my headlights soon too. Anyone have any suggestions for compound pads with a drill adapter? i did mine with turtle wax polishing compound and a flitz ball. you need to use some sort of UV clearcoat afterwards or they will cloud and yellow again.
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May 10, 2015 04:42
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Was gonna do my headlights soon too. Anyone have any suggestions for compound pads with a drill adapter? I used the 3M kit on my Altima. Worked really well, just be meticulous about masking. I wasn't, and scuffed up the bumper a bit. And after over a year, they were just barely starting to yellow again, without a UV clearcoat. Alternatively, if your headlights are like the ones on the Ion, just replace them - 2 pins, 2 bulbs, 30 seconds per side, and replacements aren't that expensive. Now if you actually have to do more than remove 2 pins to remove each one, then go ahead and polish them.
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May 10, 2015 04:58
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I put a new front beam axle and track bar bushing in the blue comanche. Brakes and probably wheel bearings will be put on it tomorrow, likely stolen shamelessly from the red XJ as that turd will only be getting beat offroad a time or two before being parted out and doesn't need good brakes.
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May 10, 2015 05:09
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Finally finished renewing the Capri's brakes. Still not as firm as my other car but I'll have to get used to it unless I feel like spending hundreds on performance gear. I suppose that's classics for ya. 
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May 10, 2015 17:00
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I changed out the evap vent (which came along with a whole mess of hoses, a new bracket, a new evap drain filter and a bunch of other hysteria). We'll see if that fixes the vac leak code but I have a feeling the blistering on some of the hoses is a clue. Then I was feeling good, and ripped out the front struts, dismantled them and now can't re-assemble them solo without a heavy person's help. The stupid claw-style compressors are too thick to grab more than two coils, and the two coils they do compress are juuuuust too far apart when the massive claws slam into each other. gently caress you, spring compressor. I can almost get the nut onto two threads if I shove down on the spring perch myself but then I can't hold the strut with one hand and thread the nut on with the other. I think if I got someone heavier to sit on it I could probably get full thread engagement and don't have to worry about loving up the threads. If I try different compressor positions I can get it cranked down far enough that it should work, but the spring bends so much that the spring perch can't reach it and the top of the strut at the same time. Maybe I can swing the spring back underneath it once the tophat is engaged... Sort of wondering if I have brain damage or something because I don't remember ever having this much trouble with a front strut. Then again, this is the first time I've ever put a new strut top in, so maybe this is what life is like with stock springs and rubber that is still intact. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:29 on May 10, 2015 |
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May 10, 2015 20:24
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I replaced the spark plugs on my Fit which was mostly trivial. I figured out after I had removed a plug that the only deep 5/8s socket I had was a spark plug socket and that socket holds onto the spark plugs much tighter than it holds onto a 3/8s extension. Fortunately a friend was coming over anyway so I bummed a ride to the store and got an appropriate socket for plug installation. Also ordered a set of 3/8s gearwrench sockets so I do not have any such problems in the future.
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May 10, 2015 21:58
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Spent the weekend continuing to chase a very light idle misfire in my '66 Mustang that's spent a bit of time in storage recently. After getting rid of the leaky old Holley months ago for a nice rebuilt Autolite 4100, new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, adjusting the timing, mixture, choke, etc. I still couldn't get it to idle down without missing even though it runs pretty well above idle. I fixed vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, but just can't shake the miss. I even put my 'scope on each spark wire since the 1 inch vacuum wander that shows on my vac gauge usually means ignition. Yesterday I took a step back and went back to basics - compression numbers are all solid, not out of line for an engine with ~60k miles since last rebuild. Then I did a leakdown test. Most cylinders were about 10-15% with the exception of #2 which has a massive 78%. Leak seems to be through the exhaust valve. I'm thinking maybe a lifter stuck and burned the valve. So it looks like at the very least the heads are coming off for a valve job and possibly more. I'll probably take it all apart for inspection and if the bottom end is good hit the block with a hone and new pistons/rings. The car's got a 289 in front of a C4 so it isn't really a candidate for a lot of horsepower. I'm going to stop by and have a chat with my machinist and see what he recommends.
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May 10, 2015 23:03
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Washed 4 weeks of track-spec brake pads off, along with a tanks worth of soot. Weather has been lovely here since the last track day and had not had the chance to do it earlier.   After (gives a rough approximation of time taken to change pads and clean the wheels and body) 
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May 11, 2015 03:44
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After dreading the job for almost 2 years, I finally replaced the power window motors in my 1986 C10. It was super easy. All the guides, tech manuals and youtubes I saw made it out like a huge pain in the balls, but it really wasn't: -Tape window all the way up so it doesn't fall -Remove the door handle and brace blocking the big access hole -Unbolt the regulator from the door -Pop the wheels off the tracks by pushing the regulator forward/backward -Pull the regulator out of the big access hole -Swap motors -Reinstall OPTIONAL: Forget to remove the safety bolt on the passenger side selector gear and curse that your new window motor is broken  It only took me a little over an hour to do both doors (including the optional fuckup). What a relief to have that taken off the to-do list. One step closer to finally passing safety inspection.
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May 11, 2015 12:47
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I've always wet-sanded by hand and borrowed an orbital for the final pass with rubbing compound but I don't have access to one anymore. Would any of the clear spray headlight wax I see work or would I be better off using some sort of laminant? The headlights aren't too bad now but it'll be easier to fix and prevent now as opposed to later down the road.
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May 11, 2015 14:53
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Laserface posted:Washed 4 weeks of track-spec brake pads off, along with a tanks worth of soot. Weather has been lovely here since the last track day and had not had the chance to do it earlier. Kouki tails. 
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May 11, 2015 22:22
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Putting my Focus back together so I have my own car to drive - recently laid off/position cut and lost my company car, currently driving my brother's car who is due back from Korea at the end of June - needs three new calipers, a timing kit and tires before it's roadworthy again. Got the driver side front and rear brakes back together today - mockup of the front with the wheel I'll be using:  e: also dear early 20s me - electrical tape is not weatherproof. Found out why my driver side foglight was out - non-heatshrink butt splices, copper wire and 8 years in a northern climate do not mix. Geoj fucked around with this message at 02:31 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 23:31
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I washed off 10 years worth of barn storage muck.
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May 18, 2015 08:46
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Ordered the following for my new Abarth cabrio: RRM Ultimate Stage 3 ECU Madness Go-Pedal Piggyback Madness CAI Madness "shorter" shifter RRM Downpipe I haven't really "modified" a car since my Honda Civic in the late 90s. I'm looking forward to having fun with this stupid little thing.
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May 18, 2015 15:43
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It begins 1" Eibach drop, axleback Borla exhaust, and summer wheels going on later this week. Next summer maybe headers with full exhaust and probably 22s (hopefully 21s). I'm already surprised how much louder it is with just the intake but it makes some sense considering it seems like more sound comes from the engine than the exhaust, at least currently.
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May 21, 2015 01:23
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I put some faggy stickers on it 
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May 21, 2015 01:27
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Rhyno posted:I put some faggy stickers on it ...why?
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May 21, 2015 15:27
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Bovril Delight posted:...why? Because the Miata isn't faggy enough.
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May 21, 2015 15:37
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^ Should have gone with a Dorothy sticker to keep up the  theme. Content:  Rewired my fog lights for the tenth (and hopefully final) time today. Lighting is now all working. Still need to hook up the passenger/rear brake, bleed the whole hydraulic system, get tires and a timing kit.
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May 22, 2015 00:58
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Had tires swapped over onto the wheels I spraybombed gold and put them on the Forester, plus a new windshield installed yesterday. Some bodywork and trim reinstallation and it'll even look mostly nice. I'm not sure I can handle this.
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May 22, 2015 04:14
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kastein posted:Had tires swapped over onto the wheels I spraybombed gold and put them on the Forester, plus a new windshield installed yesterday. Some bodywork and trim reinstallation and it'll even look mostly nice. I'm not sure I can handle this. We can't have nice things, even when we have nice things.
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May 22, 2015 11:48
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Installed a Madness Go-Pedal in the Abarth this morning. Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee http://shop.500madness.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=GoPedal+ABARTH&category_id=0&product_id=1623 This is how the car should have come from the factory. Tonight I'm installing the RoadRace Ultimate ECM, RoadRace CAI, Neuspeed ShortShifter. 200+ WHP here I come.
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May 22, 2015 14:39
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Jymmybob posted:It begins Exhaust went on yesterday and it's p loud. It'll mellow some but I hope I can get used to it because it's bordering on obnoxious even though it does sound nice and burbly. It's the quietest aftermarket one too  Also put on summer tires and black spidermonkeys so it's been a good car week. Today is rear spring day to level out the stock rake then next week is probably the fronts.
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May 22, 2015 14:40
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Jymmybob posted:Exhaust went on yesterday and it's p loud. It'll mellow some but I hope I can get used to it because it's bordering on obnoxious even though it does sound nice and burbly. It's the quietest aftermarket one too Dont drop the rear subframe to do the springs just do the inner lower control arm bolt
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May 22, 2015 15:17
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eyebeem posted:Installed a Madness Go-Pedal in the Abarth this morning. Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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May 23, 2015 01:44
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Good god this thing is insane. 20-22lb of boost makes me really want an LSD. Installed the new intake so now I can annoy everyone with blowoff noises every time I shift. Dialed up the road race ecm to stage 8 since I found some 93octane. 
eyebeem fucked around with this message at 18:50 on May 23, 2015 |
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May 23, 2015 18:47
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Sadi posted:I heard some one talking about these for BMW. All they do is change throttle map right? Like remap 10% throttle to 20% to make it feel faster? On my e46 m3 I've never noticed throttle lag but people still talk to them about it. The m3 has a sport mode button but it makes the throttle so non linear I never use it. Only thing it's good for is down shifting. correct, they revise the throttle mapping. The abarth has really lovely stock throttle response, to the point that the throttle feels dead for the first inch or so of travel. It sucks. The go pedal makes everything so much better. I had reservations at first because $250 for better throttle response seemed steep, but it really makes the car a hell of a lot more fun.
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May 23, 2015 18:52
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Yet another 8th gen civic cmc job  Hybrid em1 cmc conversion. A higher quality cmc that doesn't have plastic internals that fail and cause poor shifting/lockouts and grinds.  This one should be much easier because I get to trash the original clutch hardline!
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May 23, 2015 19:22
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Replaced the front struts+mounts. Exciting!
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May 23, 2015 21:46
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Now my CEL came on, code P1071 saying its too lean. Put some Seafoam in the tank to try and clean the fuel injectors and any carbon deposits. Engine Power Reduction code came on as soon as I left the gas station. Am I hosed or what?
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May 23, 2015 21:49
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