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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So is there anything I can do to recover this or have I just ruined a 16'-long 2x8 ceiling joist? Hurricane strap/clip/tie? Or better yet a saddle rafter tie? The metal will corral the split pieces.  Don't forget to pick up some shorter nails for the joist sides while you're at the hardware store. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:14 on May 23, 2015 |
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May 23, 2015 21:06
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So my motorcycle has rattled out its last key. It had never done that before, so it was a surprise when I pulled in to the lot and the key was gone. Luckily I was able to turn the key to off with the tip of my other key. (It's a 50 year old bike, the ignition is pretty crap. Pretty much any small key will work in it.) So I really need to take the cylinder out and replace it/rekey it. I can't have the key falling out. Here's the pics:   It looks like there's 4 equidistant notches on the outside ring made for some tool I've never seen. I assume that's how I get it off? Behind it is the battery chamber which is stuffed full of a wire rats nest I don't really want to gently caress with, and I don't see any screws or anything. How do I get this off?
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May 24, 2015 12:16
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Get a bit of scrap steel the correct thickness to fit the slots, and a hacksaw. Make a custom tool to turn the ring. Turn the ring. I would guess.
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May 24, 2015 12:20
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Backov posted:
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May 24, 2015 13:40
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Backov posted:So my motorcycle has rattled out its last key. It had never done that before, so it was a surprise when I pulled in to the lot and the key was gone. Luckily I was able to turn the key to off with the tip of my other key. (It's a 50 year old bike, the ignition is pretty crap. Pretty much any small key will work in it.) Swing by your local bicycle shop. This looks extremely similar to a bottom bracket ring. The shop should also have a notched wrench that would work also.
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May 24, 2015 15:38
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:This looks extremely similar to a bottom bracket ring. The shop should also have a notched wrench that would work also. It does, but it's got to be MUCH smaller, and likely under a lot less torque. If the paint is appropriately protected (a couple layer of blue tape) I'd have no problem going after that with vise grips, water pump pliers or a chisel and light hammer.
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May 24, 2015 16:44
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Ok, thanks for the ideas. I'll likely try something involving vice grips. My only issue with that is the ring is probably made of cheese, so I'll have to be pretty gentle with it.
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May 24, 2015 17:10
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Backov posted:Ok, thanks for the ideas. I'll likely try something involving vice grips. My only issue with that is the ring is probably made of cheese, so I'll have to be pretty gentle with it. Yeah, that's why gentle tapping with a chisel to spin it might be better if you can't move it with a very light grip using vise grips.
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May 24, 2015 17:13
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Any suggestions to fastening this lamp bracket to the ceiling? I'd prefer to re-use the existing holes.
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May 25, 2015 13:58
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nielsm posted:Any suggestions to fastening this lamp bracket to the ceiling? I'd prefer to re-use the existing holes. Cut a strip out of your ceiling and bring the walls closer by 1/2" Just make new holes. Unless your renting and need to put back the old fixtures, then mount a block of wood using the old holes and attach the new bracket into the wood.
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May 25, 2015 15:23
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Cut a strip out of your ceiling and bring the walls closer by 1/2" Those holes were left by a previous tenant, the official stance on holes and ugly paint jobs here is  . It's more a question of drilling new holes and filling the previous ones being a chore.Regardless of whether I leave the old holes or make new ones, the bracket still needs to mount to something a little more than 1" below ceiling height for the lamp to flush. The lamp (IKEA manual) screws into the side of the bracket. However looking at the manuals online, apparently the lamp is sold with a different bracket in Sweden (where I lived when I bought it) and Denmark (where I live now), and the one from the Danish SKU is much more appropriate. Since it's a stupidly cheap lamp I might just buy a new one instead and use the other bracket.
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May 25, 2015 15:42
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Not sure if there is a construction questions thread, so I thought I'd try here first. I am building a garage and was going to use these trusses for the roof and while I know the engineering is sound and it can support the weight of blown in insulation, but I have this nagging feeling that I should put 10" joists and with .75" sheeting above it and then attach the trusses to that. The fact that they are only 2x4 does not reassure me. Has anyone here ever built something using these trusses? Are they really as strong as they say when mounted at only 2 points? Or should I just over-engineer it? Walls are 2x6 at 16" spacing and I was thinking of using 2x10 if I used joists, thinking 14' with 2' overlap with another 2x10 running perpendicular with posts every 10' with joists every 16' (garage is 26'x30'). And Michigan, so I do have to deal with snow.
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May 25, 2015 17:44
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I can't speak to those particular trusses, but they aren't exactly a novel, unknown thing. The majority of houses built in the last 40 years have engineered trusses holding up the roof. My home's 2x4s have stood up to 20 years of Wisconsin snow loads without complaint. Edit: And 16" centers with 2x6 walls is a waste of lumber and labor, and degrades thermal performance. 24" centers provides more than adequate strength. Zhentar fucked around with this message at 06:21 on May 26, 2015 |
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May 26, 2015 06:18
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In most residential construction, you can have 24" centered 2x6 for up to two stories plus a roof.
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May 26, 2015 07:15
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Thank you, I think I had to hear it from someone else. I'll adjust to 24" (I had read about the 24" spacing with 2x6 before) and accept the trusses.
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May 26, 2015 16:33
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My wife saw a tip on Pinterest to clean the tub using liberal amounts of blue dawn dish soap, baking soda, and white vinegar. I know that, theoretically, the vinegar and baking soda should neutralize each other, but adding in the blue dawn seems to create an acrid odor that feels like it messes with the throat. Is listening to Pinterest as bad an idea as I think?
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May 27, 2015 05:38
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kizudarake posted:My wife saw a tip on Pinterest to clean the tub using liberal amounts of blue dawn dish soap, baking soda, and white vinegar. I know that, theoretically, the vinegar and baking soda should neutralize each other, but adding in the blue dawn seems to create an acrid odor that feels like it messes with the throat. Is listening to Pinterest as bad an idea as I think? Don't know anything about the soap but acid + baking soda do cancel but the foamy stuff left behind is an excellent degreaser.
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May 27, 2015 09:41
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kizudarake posted:My wife saw a tip on Pinterest to clean the tub using liberal amounts of blue dawn dish soap, baking soda, and white vinegar. I know that, theoretically, the vinegar and baking soda should neutralize each other, but adding in the blue dawn seems to create an acrid odor that feels like it messes with the throat. Is listening to Pinterest as bad an idea as I think? I know it's not $0.26 but Method toilet scrub is actually baller for that. Leave it on a few minutes, scrub it, rinse it off. bam, your business is shiny clean and throat lining intact.
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May 27, 2015 15:28
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I'm putting together a play fort thing for my kid's birthday. The house came with a giant pea gravel 'pit', but grass and weeds and whatnot are growing. I got a propane torch and went to town but new grass came up as soon as it rained again. I'm fairly sure it's sitting on top of the septic tank/drainfield if that makes any difference in anything. Here's a crappy picture: e: the previous owners had a fort thing and a trampoline. we will not be putting a trampoline in, I already have a swimming pool with a diving board if you're into neck injuries. Do you think it'd be difficult to basically cut that thing in half and put grass seed down? Assuming I can keep 3 dogs off of it... Hell, with how grass is growing in pea gravel, I might not even need any seed... e2: pea gravel is $50/truckbed here PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 16:09 on May 27, 2015 |
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May 27, 2015 15:57
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yall are going to tell me to rip the whole thing up, then lay down landscape fabric, sand and then pea gravel aren't you?
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May 27, 2015 16:19
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My wife noticed a crack behind our toilet in the tile. Small crack, but it seemed damp and when she pressed some tissue to it, it comes back moist. It could be several things. A foundation issue (which we have) that just got moisture in it from the nearby shower (excess spray). Could be water leaking from the toilet. The toilet was leaking a few months ago and the plumbing company just sealed the toilet base to the tile (that's not good right?). OR it could be that I left the goddamned faucet on outside which is nearby. It had a hose and nozzle hooked up and the nozzle was off. So the only water coming out was the spray from the tap (old tap that is a bit leaky like a lot of outside faucets). I took this pic of the outside tap (the raised window is right above the toilet, so that's where the leak is).  Notice the damp arced area? I can't tell if that came from tap spray hitting the bricks for a day and a half or not. Seems like the faucet would be more central to the area of dampness. Also we have had a ton of rain over the past few days so it might be from that. I'm calling a plumber to come check things out and I know this isn't exactly a fix-it-fast post just yet, but I was hoping to get some possible advice or tips on what to look for/ask for.
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May 27, 2015 16:30
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wormil posted:Don't know anything about the soap but acid + baking soda do cancel but the foamy stuff left behind is an excellent degreaser. I don't think sodium acetate is particularly well known as a degreaser. It does taste pretty good on potato chips, though. 
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May 27, 2015 16:31
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PuTTY riot posted:yall are going to tell me to rip the whole thing up, then lay down landscape fabric, sand and then pea gravel aren't you? I have an unlanscapefabriced rock area and the only thing that keeps weeds and grass out is persistence. Every time it rained I went out with a hula hoe and 5 years later almost nothing grows.
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May 27, 2015 20:20
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KillHour posted:I don't think sodium acetate is particularly well known as a degreaser. It does taste pretty good on potato chips, though. You got me, I made an assumption based on experiences with muriatic acid and baking soda. I discovered quite by accident that if you combine them the resulting foam cleans greasy parts well.
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May 27, 2015 20:30
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wormil posted:You got me, I made an assumption based on experiences with muriatic acid and baking soda. I discovered quite by accident that if you combine them the resulting foam cleans greasy parts well. You're loving with me, right? mixing muriatic (hydrochloric) acid with baking soda makes water and table salt.
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May 27, 2015 20:38
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Qwijib0 posted:I have an unlanscapefabriced rock area and the only thing that keeps weeds and grass out is persistence. Every time it rained I went out with a hula hoe and 5 years later almost nothing grows. Somewhat related, my backyard in my rental has landscape fabric and mulch, but it's been so many years that the mulch has broken down enough where things can grow directly in it. Not sure what's even possible at that point besides pulling it all up and starting over again.
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May 27, 2015 20:40
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KillHour posted:You're loving with me, right? mixing muriatic (hydrochloric) acid with baking soda makes water and table salt. It happened like this: I was removing rust with toilet bowl cleaner, when done I dumped baking soda into the bowl to neutralize the acid. I had some greasy parts to clean so I grabbed a toothbrush, dipped it in the foam and started scrubbing and the grease washed right off. Maybe the acid wasn't completely neutralized, maybe there was another reason it worked, just relaying my experience. You can assume I'm full of poo poo if it makes you feel better.
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May 27, 2015 21:01
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FISHMANPET posted:Somewhat related, my backyard in my rental has landscape fabric and mulch, but it's been so many years that the mulch has broken down enough where things can grow directly in it. Not sure what's even possible at that point besides pulling it all up and starting over again. My old rental before we bought this place had the same issue. I guess the thing to do is start from scratch. I guess I don't want to back a pickup truck onto that to dump the rocks either, if it is in fact where the septic tank/drainfield stuff is.
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May 27, 2015 21:12
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PuTTY riot posted:yall are going to tell me to rip the whole thing up, then lay down landscape fabric, sand and then pea gravel aren't you? Roundup, get one of the variations that prevents weeds for XXX days.
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May 27, 2015 21:39
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wormil posted:It happened like this: I was removing rust with toilet bowl cleaner, when done I dumped baking soda into the bowl to neutralize the acid. I had some greasy parts to clean so I grabbed a toothbrush, dipped it in the foam and started scrubbing and the grease washed right off. Maybe the acid wasn't completely neutralized, maybe there was another reason it worked, just relaying my experience. You can assume I'm full of poo poo if it makes you feel better. Not saying this didn't happen. Just that you probably shouldn't be running to the store to pick up hydrochloric acid and baking soda to degrease your bolts, or whatever. Although, if you have calcium or lime deposits on your tub, HCl will clean that right up (and probably start dissolving away at the tub lining, assuming it's not porcelain).
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May 28, 2015 14:08
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sighnoceros posted:OK, so recommended approach here would be to clean out the primary pipe and install either an alarm or a secondary drain on the auxiliary pipe? The house has a sump, could we install some hose to drain it to there? So despite my concerns that the primary pipe was clogged and that's why we were getting water backing up into the secondary drain, the repair guy simply plugged the secondary outlet and installed a new condensate pump (old one seemed to be working fine??) I explicitly told him I was concerned about the primary pipe not draining properly and water backing up into the system, but he didn't seem worried. Plus I don't own the house and I'm not paying for the repairs, so I just let it go and he went on his way. Couple days later, wouldn't you know, water all over the floor again, seeming to drain out of non-waterproof seams in the condenser somewhere instead of the secondary outlet pipe. So they're supposed to come back today. How am I, a guy who searched online for 10 minutes, supposed to explain to a dude working for a professional AC repair company that he's a total loving idiot? 
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May 28, 2015 15:52
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GOONS ARE MEAN
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Jesus christ. If some dude plugged the secondary drain on my poo poo I might even fire him on the spot. What happens when it's not draining right and you plug the secondary is that water floods out of the pan and makes a huge mess inside there and will probably get moldy. I realize firing him is not an option in your situation. My sympathies. Sounds like the best solution in your case is to install a float switch on there (and cleaning the main drain, for fucks sake). It's not even hard or expensive. What the gently caress is wrong with people.
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May 28, 2015 16:03
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Yeah I've been doing some investigating and his hack repair job is counter to ICC regulations on condensate disposal (specifically 307.2.3 and 307.2.4). I guess I am basically just going to have to tell him exactly what he needs to do because obviously he's too incompetent to figure it out himself. So: 1) Clean out the primary drainage pipe and install an unglued fitting or something so that this pipe can be easily serviced by me in the instance where it becomes blocked 2) Install either a secondary drainage pipe to a conspicuous location where drainage will be noticed but not damaging, or a float switch to turn off the condenser when the primary outlet is blocked, or a combination of the two. Does that sound accurate? Edit: Also, secondary concern, this is twice in two weeks that the carpet along this wall has been soaked due to the AC overflowing, landlord hasn't mentioned anything about being concerned, should I tell him he's going to have to get this carpet pulled up and replaced due to mold concerns or anything? I have tried to clean up the water as much as possible with a shop vac and towels and fans and a cross breeze in the basement but sitting there damp for even a day is probably not good, right? sighnoceros fucked around with this message at 16:32 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 16:22
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So, a plumber quoted me $200 to replace a wax ring on a toilet. That's something I can do myself, right?
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May 28, 2015 17:43
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Sleepstupid posted:So, a plumber quoted me $200 to replace a wax ring on a toilet. That's something I can do myself, right? Definitely something you can learn to do on YouTube with basic hand tools.
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May 28, 2015 17:49
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Sleepstupid posted:So, a plumber quoted me $200 to replace a wax ring on a toilet. That's something I can do myself, right? Protip: use your wet/dry shopvac to suck out the bit of water left in the bowl after you turn off the water and flush. Use a putty knife to get all the old ring off, and buy one of the super thick rings.
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May 28, 2015 20:00
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Awesome. Thanks.
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May 28, 2015 20:20
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Buy new closet bolts so you can replace those too if they're showing rust.
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May 28, 2015 20:35
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Sleepstupid posted:So, a plumber quoted me $200 to replace a wax ring on a toilet. That's something I can do myself, right? This was the first major DIY work I ever did on a toilet when I moved into my house about 5 years ago. I was ripping up the carpet the previous owners had in the bathroom and was replacing it with tile, and figured while the floor is up may as well gently caress with the toilets. Before then, the most plumbing work I had ever done was replace minor parts of toilet guts or help replace a shut off valve. The house I moved into has 3 toilets so I figured I'd get the process down whether I wanted to or not to save the dough. A few youtube videos later and yeah it was pretty easy to do even for a plumbing newbie. I'm by no means an expert, but doing it to 3 toilets in 1 day made me feel like one. My tips/tricks: - get several towels ready to soak up water here and there - make 200% sure you've got the correct type of wax ring (my 3rd toilet of course used a different type) - if you've got the toilet up for any amount of time, stuff a plastic bag or something on the gaping hole to keep interesting smells from escaping - if you've got ANYYYYYYY desire to full on replace your toilet(s) do it now, because when you're done you're going to go "I'm not moving that sucker for another 20 years" I can't stress the replacement thing enough. If I could go back I would have replaced all 3 of mine, but seeing as now they are tip-top and have had everything repalced, they can keep on being yellow and ugly for another 20-30 years for all I care.
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May 28, 2015 20:42
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Tyson Tomko posted:- if you've got ANYYYYYYY desire to full on replace your toilet(s) do it now, because when you're done you're going to go "I'm not moving that sucker for another 20 years" There are so many things I wish I'd burned some cash on when we moved in, because now they're really irritating me, but we can't afford the time out to get them fixed D:
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May 28, 2015 22:59
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