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If it's a base Grand Marquis the best thing you could do is gears and an exhaust. The 03+ cars handle really well for what they are but it's still a boat. The transmission has soft lazy shifts so you'd probably want to address that before supercharging it. The JMod is supposed to really liven up the car. https://fosstuffandjunk.wordpress.com/2011/05/08/j-mod-for-4r70w/
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Jan 14, 2015 23:58
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I just need some butt-in-bench time in CVs and MGMs before I make that choice. CVs seem pretty drat comfy to begin with, so I'll just have to find some bad roads for the test drive. I really don't know why I turned my back on my landbarge roots and got a drat import but it'll be all the sweeter when I fold down the arm rests in my split bench  If my eventual plan is a vortech (or whatever) wouldn't just a stalled TC and exhaust be a better idea? I still want my locked torque converter low rpms going 70 ride, and if I get the transmission hot being a cheeky idiot I can always get a transmission cooler. I'm not ever going to be doing more than burnouts, TOTALLY LEGAL DRAG STRIPS and cruising anyway.
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Jan 15, 2015 17:40
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Crossposting this in here: A friend of a friend is selling this locally:  http://southbend.craigslist.org/cto/4848926963.html I'm not interested (because there's an $1800 944 I also can't afford but want more than this) but it seems like a really cheap way to get a lot of comfort.
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Jan 16, 2015 18:16
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With a little searching and waiting you can easily get a town car for 2000 bucks
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Jan 16, 2015 18:58
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I'm starting to want one of these again. Fleetwood put a bunch of SVT stuff on his older CV, what's available to make these bastards faster and/or handle better?
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Jan 17, 2015 07:48
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ADTR has a bunch of go-fast parts for Panthers, but their prices are a bit steep. https://www.adtr.net I like the fact that they carry a complete bolt in supercharger system for the 03+ cars, but I don't dig the $5900 price tag.
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Jan 17, 2015 14:45
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I think my lighting control module ('03 P71) is shot -- occasionally there's a click behind the dash and the lights flicker or go off, the latter usually fixed by cycling the headlight switch, but sometimes (seems to be when the heater's on "floor", presumably overheating the LCM right next to the heater vent) it clicks and there's no headlights or blinkers for a random amount of time (until it cools off?). I usually leave the heater on "vent" anyway, so that's not THAT bad, but the flickering is annoying. How much does the LCM cost at a junkyard? I also need the radiator fan controller, but it seems to only be sold as the whole unit, fan, shroud, and all.  And, in keeping with the thread title, it still has a misfire on 7 and 8 despite replacing the coilpacks (though it may be that the cheap Chinese replacements -- $50 for 8 on Amazon -- were DOA, I haven't tried swapping them out for others of the new ones). A friend's selling an '03 P71 for $1000 that runs but has an unspecified radiator problem and needs tires to pass inspection. I'm thinking of buying it -- best case, I can fix it for a couple hundred and have my own little fleet of black interceptors, worst case I can cannibalize it to fix mine and then buy replacement parts and get it running as finances allow. Good idea or bad? Almost wishing I'd got a little Honda rollerskate instead, the bigass tires on these things are expensive, and mine needs 'em too -- though I need to look into used; judging from the number of donks I see around here, there are plenty of stock takeoffs to be had.
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Jan 18, 2015 01:23
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Three possible LCM solutions: 1) Find exactly where your LCM is and keep a screwdriver to bang on it when driving. 2) If you're handy with a soldering iron, the faulty relay is cheap and easy to replace. 3) Google Ford Customer Satisfaction Program number 14N01 and see if you might be able to get a free replacement.
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Jan 18, 2015 03:58
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So I decided to pass on the '91 because I came across a newer one at a local government auction for the same price. It's a 2000 P71 with 91k miles. The online auction description was pretty vague, but it's in really good shape mechanically and only needed a new gas cap to pass inspection. I'm currently looking for something to fill in the gap between the front two seats. I was able to find this from crownvic.net and it looks okay for the price. Any other good options for a center console?
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Jan 26, 2015 21:34
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I built a subwoofer box for two 8's for mine.
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Jan 26, 2015 22:26
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Smokey Blue posted:I'm currently looking for something to fill in the gap between the front two seats. I was able to find this from crownvic.net and it looks okay for the price. Any other good options for a center console? That is exactly what I would buy.
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Jan 26, 2015 22:46
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Huggable Bear King posted:If it's a base Grand Marquis the best thing you could do is gears and an exhaust. The 03+ cars handle really well for what they are but it's still a boat. The transmission has soft lazy shifts so you'd probably want to address that before supercharging it. The JMod is supposed to really liven up the car.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:17
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Smokey Blue posted:
I have this exact same console in my 2006 P71, except mine is black vinyl instead of denim. It works great, and fits snugly enough between the seats where you could probably get away without even having to bolt it down. In my car though, I had 2 metal brackets left in the car from when the cops took their console out, and I mounted mine to them. I highly recommend it, its works great, and it even has a sort of hidden storage spot.
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Jan 27, 2015 18:18
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Looking to make my 2006 Crown Vic PI less PI. Towards that end I found a 2003 CV with power leather seats in perfect shape and a replacement door to get rid of the spotlight notch, but it has the keyless entry pad. Anyone have any hints/thoughts about whether the seats will work? I have the cloth police buckets, which I don't think have airbags, but don't remember. On the door, can I adapt the 03 door? If so, would can I get the keyless entry pad to work and what else would I need to grab from the donor? If I have to go with a non-keypad door, what year doors should I be looking for and other than the exterior molding, will a Grand Marquis door fit?
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Mar 22, 2015 23:13
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CannonFodder posted:Any suggestions for exhaust upgrades? My '05 MGM has the single exhaust and I'd like to make my floaty couch just a little faster. There's cheapo chinese steel dual exhaust kits on eBay for Panthers that include an x pipe for roughly $350 that I've seen. You could pull the exhaust off a P71 in a yard, Maganaflow and Borla make stainless kits but they're more expensive, around $1000. I'm planning on doing the same to my '11 LX, but am gonna get the style flowmaster mufflers I want, Marauder tips, and have a local exhaust shop fab the rest up. djhaloeight fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 14:07
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Any idea whether you'd get any kind of noticeable power increase from something like the Chinesium kit you described? I'd be half-tempted to add cut-outs just for fun as well.
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Mar 24, 2015 01:45
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Actual power increase? Possibly. Noticeable power increase? Not very likely. Probably sound pretty good though.
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Mar 24, 2015 03:29
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This seems to have followed me home over the weekend: No, not because I got in trouble. It's mine! Here's what it looked like later in the day after a couple hours quality time with 3M Adhesive remover:  Bought it from my cousin, who bought it from the security company he worked for, who bought it from a DFW-area PD. Looks to have never been a patrol car - there's only one hole in the roof, it never had a cage, the rear vinyl seat is in good shape, and the wiring isn't butchered. It's scungy inside because no one ever cared to clean it, but it's intact.  2005. 143K miles. $1500 Rubber floor mats, cop buckets. Factory AM/FM sounds surprisingly good. No major dents, not even much parking lot rash. Scratches in the paint, particularly form where my ham-fisted cousin removed the stickers with a razor blade, and some flaking paint here and there. Fortunately touch-up paint is available at the local O'Reilly's. May need an alignment. The spare in the trunk:   and the fronts are a little more worn on the edges. New-ish tires on the back, so I'll rotate those up there to give me some time to get it sorted. No major leaks that I could find. Rearend is weeping a bit. I know he replaced an axle, so I'll take a look at that. Appears to have a LSD, given the striped I laid down in front of the house (with the traction control on!), but I need to check the option codes to be sure. AC is awesome, nice window tint. runs great, but the alternator seems to have a bad bearing . Charges fine, but noisy in a bad way. Cousin said it was throwing code P0401. He pulled the battery, so nothing was set when I had it checked at Autozone, but nothing was ready, either. It hasn't been inspected or tagged since September due to the check engine code, so that's first to fix. Need to paint the wheels - the factory coating is wearing off and there's a little surface rust. Power windows, locks, mirrors all work. Cruise works. Lots of HP compared to the stuff I have been driving (4-banger Cherokee, well-worn '90 RX-7, 2008 Kia Spectra5). I like it! Selling my XJ Cherokee to a friend for the cash and space. Best part is that it will get me better gas mileage than the 2.5L Cherokee.
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Mar 30, 2015 20:44
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Nice! Looks pretty clean, congrats on the purchase!
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Mar 30, 2015 20:47
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Darchangel posted:
White panthers always have problems with the paint peeling, flaking, etc. There's something wrong with the paint or how they applied it IIRC. Maybe someone who knows a bit more about it than I do will chime in. Otherwise, nice Vic for a good price!
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Mar 31, 2015 00:56
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, paint issues
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T1g4h posted:Nice! Looks pretty clean, congrats on the purchase! Thanks! I look forward to driving the hell out of it. djhaloeight posted:White panthers always have problems with the paint peeling, flaking, etc. There's something wrong with the paint or how they applied it IIRC. Maybe someone who knows a bit more about it than I do will chime in. Otherwise, nice Vic for a good price! Yeah, I gathered, from the nature of some of the spots. primer, rather than bare metal showing. Chevy had a similar problem back in the '80s, as I recall, then again in the '90s with the switch to water-based paints.
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Mar 31, 2015 01:55
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98 plain Jane crown vic, can anyone tell me Where the coolant temp sensor harness comes From? Customer did their own work and "lost it."  
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May 5, 2015 22:24
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:98 plain Jane crown vic, can anyone tell me Where the coolant temp sensor harness comes From? That white plug? Wish I could help. I just looked, and my 05 CVPI doesn't have one there. The boss is on the crossover, but unmachined. Sorry!
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May 7, 2015 01:16
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The end guess as far as I could tell was that it was a Dorman manifold. I took it off because whoever did their work butchered it and it was hemmoraging coolant. On removal I found no loose or unused plugs, most of the lower intake bolts finger tight, and a standard lower gasketset along with O ring seals in the manifold itself. Reassembled it after getting the correct Dorman replacement O ring kit and eliminated the double gasket OEM ones and all of a sudden no leaks. Gauge works and scan tool data shows coolant temp so I just said gently caress it and left it in there.
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May 7, 2015 03:05
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:The end guess as far as I could tell was that it was a Dorman manifold. I took it off because whoever did their work butchered it and it was hemmoraging coolant. On removal I found no loose or unused plugs, most of the lower intake bolts finger tight, and a standard lower gasketset along with O ring seals in the manifold itself. Reassembled it after getting the correct Dorman replacement O ring kit and eliminated the double gasket OEM ones and all of a sudden no leaks. Gauge works and scan tool data shows coolant temp so I just said gently caress it and left it in there. Yeah, mine gets it from the one on the left side of the coolant passage with the black plug. I bet that one on the left is to accommodate earlier model 4.6s, and should just have a pipe plug.
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May 7, 2015 16:17
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Got one of the rear doors in my P71 working from the inside last night. Used threaded inserts and M6 bolts to replace what rivets I had to drill out. Man, I am so glad I bit that rivnut tool. Probably do the other door tonight. Need to go back to the yard and fine some half-decent carpet, among other things. There was a fresh Town car with leather buckets there. Black, but I can make that work with the grey interior, I think. And what the hell is it with the ash-tray/cupholders on these things? Mine has one cupholder broken, and the face of it that matches the dash is missing. Every one I saw in the yard was either broken, missing the face, or the earlier style. Design flaw?
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May 19, 2015 19:21
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2 repairs so far on my Grand Marquis- oil pan drainplug threading was stripped, so had to rip that out and replace it, and then the fun started when it started heating up here in New England- overheating when idling. Fun. New Blower motor and control unit are in, and it's running wonderful now. I still miss my xB sometimes. I could park that fucker anywhere
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May 20, 2015 00:33
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So I was changing the driver side rear tire on my P71 because of a flat and was greeted by this when I popped the wheel off. Now I need to see if any other fun messages are scribbled on the car somewhere.
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May 20, 2015 15:54
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Smokey Blue posted:So I was changing the driver side rear tire on my P71 because of a flat and was greeted by this when I popped the wheel off. Heh, I knew a dude who did this when he was renovating his house. Little "touched this with my dick" messages everywhere.
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May 21, 2015 22:17
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After 130k hard miles in my Marauder, the rear main seal is leaking, the timing chain is slapping on startup, and I can hear a bit of head noise. I can still squawk 2nd gear, so I'm still driving it. I even have a pair of Pirellis waiting to go on the rear. I'm agonizing over a rebuild (which I don't have the tools or experience for) or buying a crate motor or having a race $hop a$$e$$ boring/$troking to 5.0L. E/N;tl;dr: Weighing Marauder motor options.
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May 23, 2015 21:30
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Comedy option: Save up, find a wrecked SVT Lightning, drop in the supercharged 5.4 
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May 23, 2015 22:20
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T1g4h posted:Comedy option: Save up, find a wrecked SVT Lightning, drop in the supercharged 5.4 No. This is not the comedy option. This is the correct option. Lightning 5.4, 5-speed from a Mustang. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Q1XlX8izDM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3_hp4XecwI
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May 24, 2015 08:23
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I'm going to sound stupid... But does the 5.4 drop in place of the 4.6 on panther cars?
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May 25, 2015 02:25
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I'm going to sound stupid... But does the 5.4 drop in place of the 4.6 on panther cars?
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May 25, 2015 07:58
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14 INCH SLIT posted:Far as I know, the only change I can think of is to cut a hole.in the hood. If it's Supercharged. A naturally aspirated 5.4 bolts right in. (4.6 and 5.4 are Ford Modular engines on the same block architecture.)
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May 25, 2015 12:51
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So, possibly dumb question, but where should I start looking to diagnose a rough idle when my 2001 CVPI first starts? Idle Air Control motor is brand new, just replaced it and the gasket maybe a few months ago. It's had a CEL for a long time now due to an exhaust leak at the passenger side header, EGR flow insufficient or something similar, but the rough idle is recent. It just started doing it maybe a week or two ago, tops. It sounds almost like a miss but after 15 - 30 seconds it smooths out and idles like normal, albeit with a somewhat muted exhaust note.
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May 26, 2015 22:37
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T1g4h posted:So, possibly dumb question, but where should I start looking to diagnose a rough idle when my 2001 CVPI first starts? Idle Air Control motor is brand new, just replaced it and the gasket maybe a few months ago. It's had a CEL for a long time now due to an exhaust leak at the passenger side header, EGR flow insufficient or something similar, but the rough idle is recent. It just started doing it maybe a week or two ago, tops. It sounds almost like a miss but after 15 - 30 seconds it smooths out and idles like normal, albeit with a somewhat muted exhaust note. Vacuum leaks! Don't these Ford Modulars have issues with cracking plastic inlet manifolds and gaskets? Starting fluid/ether can often be used to help find vacuum leaks. Spray it on inlet manifold (not down the intake/throttle body) and vacuum lines, etc and look for a change in idle or engine noise.
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May 26, 2015 22:45
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Mooseykins posted:Vacuum leaks! Don't these Ford Modulars have issues with cracking plastic inlet manifolds and gaskets? I'll have to check and see if there are any noticeable leaks tomorrow after work then. If it's something that simple, then awesome, I can deal with that I'm wondering if maybe some of the Brakleen I used to clean the old Idle Air Control might have gotten inside and fouled my plugs or otherwise caused some sort of issue. Is that a thing that can happen?
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May 26, 2015 23:31
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T1g4h posted:I'll have to check and see if there are any noticeable leaks tomorrow after work then. If it's something that simple, then awesome, I can deal with that Not a surefire thing but it's the quickest and easiest test, and vacuum leaks are by far the most common cause of hunting idles. Also, if it clear up when warm that does also often suggest a vacuum leak, as parts warm up and expand the leak is sealed. T1g4h posted:I'm wondering if maybe some of the Brakleen I used to clean the old Idle Air Control might have gotten inside and fouled my plugs or otherwise caused some sort of issue. Is that a thing that can happen? No, that wouldn't cause it. Brake cleaner is also often used for finding vacuum leaks, but doesn't work as well. We used to spray brake cleaner down the intake of running engines to help get them through emissions. If the cats were dying it would often help roast them and bring their efficiency up a little.
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May 26, 2015 23:40
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Mooseykins posted:Vacuum leaks! Don't these Ford Modulars have issues with cracking plastic inlet manifolds and gaskets? Yup. First clue on stepdad's F-150 (5.4) was a coolant leak from what at first appeared to be the thermostat housing. Then it started throwing codes for running lean, had an odd idle (not rough, but it wasn't steady), etc. Still drove fine, but mileage went to poo poo, and it felt a little down on power. Long term fuel trims were around 15%  Shop replaced it for him, hasn't had any issues since.
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May 26, 2015 23:43
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