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Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

OneTrueBru posted:

God, it's been ages since I touched a brush. Decided the most sensible way to shake the rust off would be following a step-by-step, so I picked up a copy of Angel Giraldez's "A-Z painting for idiots" guidebook and tried my hand at painting the included Joan of Arc miniature:





Infinity minis are quite a shock scale-wise compared to the 40k ones I'm used to, but she was still fun as hell to paint. hosed up the placement of the Maltese cross and so had to go with a different design on the back of the tabard but, barring that mishap, I'm pretty pleased overall.

As an aside, while browsing for alternative Joan schemes I stumbled upon Infinity.jpg (don't click this at work. Although if you're already browsing a miniature painting thread, it probably won't do appreciably more damage to your image).

I really hate to say this, since I think your face painting is actually miles better than Giraldez's hooker makeup on Joan, but you have a couple of tiny varnish cracks on her right boob.

Apart from that, your work is jaw-dropping. Big fat yes from me.

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KFJ
Nov 7, 2009
Hey folks! A friend of mine who's been out of the hobby for nearly a decade decided to basically give me his Imperial Guard tank battalion. That's 3 Leman Russ Vanquishers and 2 normal Leman Russes and one Baneblade.

Now, my friend wasn't the best painter in the world - He didn't prime his Russes and the Baneblade to start with, but after painting and applying some awful weathering solution, he primed over that on the Baneblade and one Russ. I was wondering, what's the best way of getting that stuff off? I'm thinking about importing some Simple Green or trying Brake Fluid or the like. I've heard that GW Primer can be a pain to get off, though. I'd love some help, because I genuinely want to save that Baneblade from being a kinda lovely looking lump of black plastic.

Also, one of the Vanquisher turrets is snapped in half (It's a Forgeworld turret) - what's the best way to fix that?

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Use Castrol Super Clean, the stuff in a purple bottle. It's available at most auto places and supermarkets. DO NOT use brake fluid unless you want to destroy the models. You can probably pin the Forgeworld turret, what's the damage look like?

Squiggly Beast
Apr 29, 2009

orksorksOrksORKS!
:orks: :orks101:
Gravy Boat 2k

Z the IVth posted:

I really hate to say this, since I think your face painting is actually miles better than Giraldez's hooker makeup on Joan, but you have a couple of tiny varnish cracks on her right boob.

Apart from that, your work is jaw-dropping. Big fat yes from me.

Thanks - I thought that was just an errant brushstroke or bit of fluff, but looking at it in the zoomed-in photo it does appear cracked. I probably didn't wait long enough for the floor polish to cure before spraying on the matte varnish.

Fortunately I'm now working on a half-finished DA librarian, so I'll just borrow a bit of blue to fix her breastplate when I'm painting his armour. I've had this Dark Vengeance set for years now and it'll be nice to finish at least one starter force.

KFJ
Nov 7, 2009

BlackIronHeart posted:

Use Castrol Super Clean, the stuff in a purple bottle. It's available at most auto places and supermarkets. DO NOT use brake fluid unless you want to destroy the models. You can probably pin the Forgeworld turret, what's the damage look like?

Alright, I'll try to find some Castrol Super Clean - Might not find it, though - I'm in Iceland and we don't have the best availability of stuff like that. I'll check the Castrol dealer here, see if I can't find some of it.

The break is pretty rough. It's snapped in two in the middle of the barrel. It's snapped in two pretty roughly, so the pieces don't line up 100%.

EDIT: Also, does it have to be the Castrol stuff? Meguiar's has a product called Super Degreaser, although I don't think that's bio degradable, which might be a pain.

KFJ fucked around with this message at 23:48 on May 25, 2015

LordAba
Oct 22, 2012

by FactsAreUseless

Z the IVth posted:

I really hate to say this, since I think your face painting is actually miles better than Giraldez's hooker makeup on Joan, but you have a couple of tiny varnish cracks on her right boob.

Apart from that, your work is jaw-dropping. Big fat yes from me.

Joan was known for being very feminine. Nothing but makeup and sexy butt suits. In fact, it was a major contribution to why she was on trial.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

OneTrueBru posted:

God, it's been ages since I touched a brush. Decided the most sensible way to shake the rust off would be following a step-by-step, so I picked up a copy of Angel Giraldez's "A-Z painting for idiots" guidebook and tried my hand at painting the included Joan of Arc miniature:


That is an awesome job! I may have to pick up that book myself to get back into gear.


Z the IVth posted:

I really hate to say this, since I think your face painting is actually miles better than Giraldez's hooker makeup on Joan, but you have a couple of tiny varnish cracks on her right boob.

Hooker makeup? Really? I think you're being a bit over the top, there.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~
I mean, she could stand to dial back the rouge a little :v: OneTruBru's skintone is more natural, but I think the studio paintjob's real good too.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

SRM posted:

OneTruBru's skintone is more natural
I agree - I think it looks great. It gives a really youthful appearance to the model, which is apropos of Joan of Arc (though I don't know the Infinity fluff.)

Speaking of, I happened to look on Ebay to see how many of the Joan models were up for sale. Only one painted one was offered, but there were about a dozen NIB models sold thus far. Which leads me to believe that a bunch of people bought the book/model combo and didn't bother to paint the instructional mini. That seems to me like buying a paint by number kit and selling off the canvas, but keeping the instructions...

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
It's not an instructional mini, it's a preorder bonus. And since it's a gaming piece and the non-limited sculpt is old as gently caress, the obvious thing is to ebay it and paint something from your own faction.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

So uh, I opened my sealed yellow-grey milliput that's never been used, but has been lying in my cupboard for a few months. Supposedly this has a long shelf life, and I've never seen this happen with GW green stuff.

My yellow stick looks fine, but the grey one has turned this gross greenish brown, like a mouldy hotdog. The bag it was wrapped in was all sticky as well. What happened to it?

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
It's fine, mine is exactly the same.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Gross. Not sure they understand what grey is.

Smells like sweet popcorn though which is nice.

Oh its grey inside.

ijyt fucked around with this message at 22:54 on May 26, 2015

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

KFJ posted:

Alright, I'll try to find some Castrol Super Clean - Might not find it, though - I'm in Iceland and we don't have the best availability of stuff like that. I'll check the Castrol dealer here, see if I can't find some of it.

The break is pretty rough. It's snapped in two in the middle of the barrel. It's snapped in two pretty roughly, so the pieces don't line up 100%.

EDIT: Also, does it have to be the Castrol stuff? Meguiar's has a product called Super Degreaser, although I don't think that's bio degradable, which might be a pain.

Some quick Googling seems to indicate that Meg's Super Degreaser is pretty similar to Castrol's stuff. Put a random bit in the stuff for a week and see if it melts?

As for the barrel of the tank gun, I would pin the pieces back together as best you can and then wrap medical gauze around the barrel and paint it to look like camo netting.

(not my tank)

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Pierzak posted:

It's not an instructional mini, it's a preorder bonus. And since it's a gaming piece and the non-limited sculpt is old as gently caress, the obvious thing is to ebay it and paint something from your own faction.

I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach?

Does anyone have a scan of the FW Thunderbolt instructions? The kit I got doesn't have them and I can't seem to find a copy online.

JerryLee
Feb 4, 2005

THE RESERVED LIST! THE RESERVED LIST! I CANNOT SHUT UP ABOUT THE RESERVED LIST!

berzerkmonkey posted:

I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach?

I've seen the book and there are several different Infinity models that he walks you through, not just Joan. There are also some sections on general techniques.

TheArmorOfContempt
Nov 29, 2012

Did I ever tell you my favorite color was blue?

OneTrueBru posted:

God, it's been ages since I touched a brush. Decided the most sensible way to shake the rust off would be following a step-by-step, so I picked up a copy of Angel Giraldez's "A-Z painting for idiots" guidebook and tried my hand at painting the included Joan of Arc miniature:





Infinity minis are quite a shock scale-wise compared to the 40k ones I'm used to, but she was still fun as hell to paint. hosed up the placement of the Maltese cross and so had to go with a different design on the back of the tabard but, barring that mishap, I'm pretty pleased overall.

As an aside, while browsing for alternative Joan schemes I stumbled upon Infinity.jpg (don't click this at work. Although if you're already browsing a miniature painting thread, it probably won't do appreciably more damage to your image).

This is freaking amazing...

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

KFJ posted:

Alright, I'll try to find some Castrol Super Clean - Might not find it, though - I'm in Iceland and we don't have the best availability of stuff like that. I'll check the Castrol dealer here, see if I can't find some of it.

The break is pretty rough. It's snapped in two in the middle of the barrel. It's snapped in two pretty roughly, so the pieces don't line up 100%.

EDIT: Also, does it have to be the Castrol stuff? Meguiar's has a product called Super Degreaser, although I don't think that's bio degradable, which might be a pain.

The engine degreaser isn't a Castrol product any more just Super Clean Engine Degreaser. Walmart also has a store brand called Purple Power that seems OK.

I know that may not help you, but if its biodegradable and is purple in color, you are probably fine.

E: or just buy your locally available stuff and do a test run like BlackIronHeart suggested.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

berzerkmonkey posted:

I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach?

Does anyone have a scan of the FW Thunderbolt instructions? The kit I got doesn't have them and I can't seem to find a copy online.
I tossed mine once I finished building the thing :( This guy has a step by step of it but I don't know how much good it'll be to you:
http://www.excommunicatetraitoris.com/2015/03/forge-world-thunderbolt-assembly-guide.html

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

berzerkmonkey posted:

I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach?


90% of the book is step by steps. There's like 2 pages of techniques. That Joan is the new limited edition sculpt that came with the preorder for the book, and also is one of the step by steps in the book.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

berzerkmonkey posted:

That is an awesome job! I may have to pick up that book myself to get back into gear.


Hooker makeup? Really? I think you're being a bit over the top, there.

Between the overly intense blusher and thick eyebrows, yes. I'm all for having some makeup on the ladies, unrealistic though it may be, but there a level of too much. The no makeup look suits the sculpt much better - there's already plenty going on with the fringe and bangs, you don't want to clutter the face with additional colours.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

SRM posted:

I tossed mine once I finished building the thing :( This guy has a step by step of it but I don't know how much good it'll be to you:
http://www.excommunicatetraitoris.com/2015/03/forge-world-thunderbolt-assembly-guide.html

Yeah, I found that as well. It's not an overly complicated model, so I should be ok with that and the Youtube video I found. Thanks.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Forgeworld have always been super quick in replying to any emails I've sent them, just ask them for a pdf

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

Forgeworld have always been super quick in replying to any emails I've sent them, just ask them for a pdf

You'll have to include your order number for them to send you instructions these days, but they still will.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
I picked mine up at Adepticon at the flea market, so no dice with an order number. Again, it shouldn't be a big deal as there aren't a lot of fiddly little parts. At least it isn't a titan...

KFJ
Nov 7, 2009

berzerkmonkey posted:

I picked mine up at Adepticon at the flea market, so no dice with an order number. Again, it shouldn't be a big deal as there aren't a lot of fiddly little parts. At least it isn't a titan...

Try sending them an email anyway, it takes 5 minutes and it won´t hurt, right?

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Long story short, I'm basing my 28mm historicals on galvanized washers and creating unit trays that use magnet strips to hold them in place. It works great but there's one hitch - I sprayed the trays with brown rustoleum primer to make them look like "ground" (it's a nice effect) and the coat doesn't affect the magnet strength, but if I leave the minis on the magnet strips for a while, the primer sort of sticks to the under side of the washers. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening?

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

Unzip and Attack posted:

Long story short, I'm basing my 28mm historicals on galvanized washers and creating unit trays that use magnet strips to hold them in place. It works great but there's one hitch - I sprayed the trays with brown rustoleum primer to make them look like "ground" (it's a nice effect) and the coat doesn't affect the magnet strength, but if I leave the minis on the magnet strips for a while, the primer sort of sticks to the under side of the washers. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening?

Couple coats of varnish? Also make sure to let the primer and varnish dry for a day or so before placing it on anything.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

KFJ posted:

Try sending them an email anyway, it takes 5 minutes and it won´t hurt, right?
I did, but I don't expect much - traditionally, their email communication is pretty bad.


Unzip and Attack posted:

Long story short, I'm basing my 28mm historicals on galvanized washers and creating unit trays that use magnet strips to hold them in place. It works great but there's one hitch - I sprayed the trays with brown rustoleum primer to make them look like "ground" (it's a nice effect) and the coat doesn't affect the magnet strength, but if I leave the minis on the magnet strips for a while, the primer sort of sticks to the under side of the washers. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening?
It might be the latex in the paint. If they are completely dried, varnish both like krushgroove said. the lacquer coat should help with that. You may need to do a gloss then matte coat as well.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Any recommends for a brush-on varnish? I have some Citadel Ardcoat but not sure if that will work well for this purpose.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Any reason you just don't spray? Try spraying only the trays and seeing how that goes.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~
Yeah, Citadel 'Ardcoat is really only good if you want to put a gloss effect on a gemstone or something.

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.
What brands of varnish do people recommend if I'm running it through an airbrush? Is it worth just getting a spray can of something instead?

I've seen some people in the thread discuss using varnish as a way to 'save your progress' then continue painting on top if it.

I'm assuming that the varnish layer will hold up to some abuse from water and a paper towel but what about some simple green? Or if I need to remove something and water isn't cutting it but I don't want to gently caress up the varnish or layers of paint under it?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 19 days!

Super 3 posted:

What brands of varnish do people recommend if I'm running it through an airbrush? Is it worth just getting a spray can of something instead?

For gloss, just use Pledge Floor Care (or whatever the non-USA equivalent of it may be, depending on your location), you can run it straight through an airbrush without thinning.

For matte, I've actually had good luck using both Liquitex (unthinned) and Vallejo (thinned to something like a 3 or 4:1 ratio of varnish:water) matte varnishes through an airbrush without any problems (though I think you have to airbrush them at around 25-30 PSI, anything lower seems to cause problems, at least in my experience).

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

Super 3 posted:

I'm assuming that the varnish layer will hold up to some abuse from water and a paper towel but what about some simple green? Or if I need to remove something and water isn't cutting it but I don't want to gently caress up the varnish or layers of paint under it?

Pledge will do all that you're asking.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Pledge is great for everything except matte. For that, the gods created testors dullcote

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Would someone be willing to do a nice varnish/sealant effort post? The amount of information seems a bit overwhelming to someone who doesn't know jack about what works best in what situation.

parabolic
Jul 21, 2005

good night, speedfriend

Agreed, it's always nerve wracking to spray over a finished paint job for the first few times.

everyone wear hats now
Jul 29, 2010

Unzip and Attack posted:

Would someone be willing to do a nice varnish/sealant effort post? The amount of information seems a bit overwhelming to someone who doesn't know jack about what works best in what situation.

In short, get an airbrush or use someone else's for varnishing. Vallejo satin varnish works a treat.

Every spray can brand has hosed my models.

That said i'm sure others will have more informative answers but for me it was worth getting an airbrush just to never deal with the terror of "Am i about to ruin my tiny men".

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banned from Starbucks
Jul 18, 2004




Painting goons what am I doing wrong here. I put a wash on this X-wing ship and its dirtying up the overall ship well enough but nothing is really collecting in the nooks and corners. Am i just watering it down too much? Im using about a 50:50 water/wash ratio. How do i get it to bring out the details more without making it too grey in the other areas any more? Sorry the pic sucks but my phone really hates focusing on anything close up

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