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I tied the stock gasket on Lynza's bike to the frame since it didn't even vaguely fit around the fan housing for the light. I should check and make sure it isn't getting clogged or anything. On the other hand, having the gasket on there might impede the air-flow and overheat the bulb.
Lexorin fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 22:06
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| # ? May 14, 2024 07:56 |
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Renewed my registration and took it for a ride: (I love the ride up to Vista House - close to my house, but still gives lots of snaky twisty roads with pretty scenery to enjoy)
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May 28, 2015 22:20
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Yeah, I wont cover the fan, I'll just make a short baffle that sits more around higher up on the bulb. there is like a 1 cm gap between the fins near the fan and the back of the reflector i want to cover abit more. A local shop has a wash basin drain plug that looks suitable for modification. Just cut out the middle and maybe cut down the edges a bit.
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May 28, 2015 23:08
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Arrrrgh. Took my bike in to get the chain and sprockets done, since it was pretty cheap at the dealership. Went over to the actual dealership so the husband could look at a helmet, and ended up sitting on a cruiser thing just to see if it was comfy. It was alright, and a salesguy came up and asked me about it. I told him I wasn't switching teams, don't like cruisers. I said, "I'm thinking about maybe a Ninja 1000 at some point." And so then he took me to see a Ninja 1000, with the matching hardcases, with 2 miles on the odo, from an auction, for $8999.  Goddamnit. I want that bike so bad.
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May 31, 2015 00:41
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makka-setan posted:Today I bought the loving bearings. Not so cheap though, 125 american dollars, and I still have to go back for one of the dust seals. Just hope they do the trick. Scratch that, they gave me the wrong bearings. The total is now ~245 usd for a set of wheel bearings. loving genuine yamaha parts. The All Balls kit is $39.77 through amazon >_<
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May 31, 2015 01:33
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Did oil and filter plus a coolant flush because who knows the last time the PO did it. Autozone gave me a whole 50 cents for recycling my oil, but they didn't take the filter or empty oil bottles. Still gotta drop that poo poo off with the old coolant and the hazardous wast drop off augh.
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May 31, 2015 02:43
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I finally replaced the way overpriced wheel bearings only to discover that I had two binding links on the chain and a piece of steel wire stuck through the rear tire.
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May 31, 2015 15:21
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Old: New:  It came with the bike, still in its packaging (with a $130 price tag, what the gently caress man), and I couldn't find a local buyer for it so I threw it on. Already had the matching gas cap.
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Jun 1, 2015 02:58
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So...what are they #1 at? Or is it an abstract thing just cause they're totally the bestest?
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Jun 1, 2015 06:24
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 Finally replaced the leaky fork seal I had. Also switched out the factory "0W" fork oil for 5W, seems to be a bit more settled and better damped now, but I'll have to ride it more to tell for sure. Also the loving cheapass garbage 24mm deep socket (my good 24mm socket wasn't deep enough inside to fit over the preload and damping adjusters) I had to use to get the fork caps off wasn't a very tight fit on the caps and ended up mangling/rounding the poo poo out of the fork caps, so I'll have to see about eBaying some replacements eventually, as I don't think they're coming off again without vise-grips and power tools becoming involved  Slavvy posted:So...what are they #1 at? Or is it an abstract thing just cause they're totally the bestest? #1 at having riders expose their skull meats in a crash because they won't wear proper helmets? Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Jun 1, 2015 |
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Jun 1, 2015 07:16
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HotCanadianChick posted:#1 at having riders expose their skull meats in a crash because they won't wear proper helmets? ^^ likely this. The 1 is even evokes skull imagery.
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Jun 1, 2015 08:06
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Concours 14 maintenance day. Oil and filter change. Hydraulic fluid flush and 6 new speed bleeders (brake and clutch). Rear diff fluid change. Replaced the lower right plastic damaged in a tip over in the driveway last year. Long pine needles are like walking on roller bearings. 
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Jun 1, 2015 15:46
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BlackLaser posted:Concours 14 maintenance day. Oil and filter change. Hydraulic fluid flush and 6 new speed bleeders (brake and clutch). Rear diff fluid change. Replaced the lower right plastic damaged in a tip over in the driveway last year. Long pine needles are like walking on roller bearings. Linked brakes? I think about un-linking the brakes on my VFR every time I have to bleed them but will never actually do it because effort.
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Jun 1, 2015 18:29
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Boys who love boys
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Not so much what I did to it, more of what I did for it - no more sitting in the rain for my costly euro bike. 
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Jun 1, 2015 22:13
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Slavvy posted:So...what are they #1 at? Or is it an abstract thing just cause they're totally the bestest? AMA dirt track ownership, starting with Mert Lawwill in 1969 and continuing mostly uninterrupted for decades. The Kenny Roberts Yam TZ750 was one notable exception, a monster of a bike worthy of further investigation. Easy to dismiss this achievement I suppose, but think about the nads required to jam a bike sideways coming off of 140-150 in the straights. The r/w/b version of the symbol was also propagated in the 70s by Evel Knievel, who was if nothing else a marketing and merchandising powerhouse. I sincerely hope your bouncy castle stays put. 
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Jun 1, 2015 23:59
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Marv Hushman posted:I sincerely hope your bouncy castle stays put. Please tell me there is a video of this flying away.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:50
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hot sauce posted:Please tell me there is a video of this flying away. The latest involved a waterspout getting under one on a Florida beach and taking it several yards, but no higher than tree level. That one had video. Some injuries, but I think all the little scamps pulled through OK.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:59
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Marv Hushman posted:AMA dirt track ownership, starting with Mert Lawwill in 1969 and continuing mostly uninterrupted for decades. The Kenny Roberts Yam TZ750 was one notable exception, a monster of a bike worthy of further investigation. Easy to dismiss this achievement I suppose, but think about the nads required to jam a bike sideways coming off of 140-150 in the straights. Then they should do what every other company that succeeds in racing does and build a racy bike 
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Jun 2, 2015 01:26
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Marv Hushman posted:I sincerely hope your bouncy castle stays put. For now the bike stays on top until I got some really loving long lag bolts and screw that fucker to the ground.
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Jun 2, 2015 03:14
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monsterzero posted:Linked brakes? I think about un-linking the brakes on my VFR every time I have to bleed them but will never actually do it because effort. Yup linked brakes. They don't really bother me. I notice them, but it's not a big deal to me. I think all of the ways to remove the linked system messes with either the ABS or the traction control in some way.
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Jun 2, 2015 15:59
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BlackLaser posted:Yup linked brakes. They don't really bother me. I notice them, but it's not a big deal to me. I think all of the ways to remove the linked system messes with either the ABS or the traction control in some way. Oh, I love the effect of the brakes when riding. The rear brake basically becomes a 'settle suspension' button under almost all circumstances, but it's just a bitch and a half to bleed. Do you use a vac/pressure bleeder or just squeeze the levers? Do the speed bleeders make it significantly easier?
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Jun 2, 2015 16:03
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monsterzero posted:Oh, I love the effect of the brakes when riding. The rear brake basically becomes a 'settle suspension' button under almost all circumstances, but it's just a bitch and a half to bleed. Do you use a vac/pressure bleeder or just squeeze the levers? Do the speed bleeders make it significantly easier? I just put on the speed bleeders and pumped a couple reservoirs of fluid through each caliper using the levers. Ran hose from the bleeders to a container with fluid in it to prevent air from getting back in. I also put speed bleeders at the top to bleed the lever end of the system. Bled the calipers then the levers. No issues as far I can tell.
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Jun 2, 2015 17:40
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I added a tall windscreen and a top box to my CB500X. Needed a better set up for touring this summer.
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Jun 3, 2015 02:23
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Today I fixed up some rust on my saddlebag mounts, re-tightened my lovely cyclegear barend mirrors, and hooked up my beautiful new ram mount! Ordered a bunch of new plastics to replace my busted rear end ones too. After being a retard and leaving my bike out most of the summer with some plastic tank protector film poo poo on it, its developed some nasty gunk. Took them off and there are still lines and deposits. Anyone dealt with this stuff before? Is there any hope for removing it?    
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Jun 3, 2015 03:06
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That looks like rust to me, is it not? If not, a clay bar should do it. You can easily find a meguiar's or mother's clay bar kit at any big box/auto parts store for about $20.
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Jun 3, 2015 03:40
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Today I talked to a 5'2" lady who looked like a nice old grandma for some time about vintage bike racing. She was looking to get into it. I gave her some advice on what are the best bikes to get and what needs to be done for the first time out. She had already been doing track days on a Ninja 300. She said she used to be a professional pilot and did the Reno air races. Was heartwarming. The world needs more ladies like that.
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Jun 3, 2015 03:44
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astrollinthepork posted:That looks like rust to me, is it not? If not, a clay bar should do it. You can easily find a meguiar's or mother's clay bar kit at any big box/auto parts store for about $20. Doesn't feel like rust, I'll give the clay bar a shot though. Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2015 03:52
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Snapshot posted:I added a tall windscreen and a top box to my CB500X. Needed a better set up for touring this summer. Are those the OEM Honda side cases? Can I ask how much they run you? I'd love a set but I hear they're around $800+ and I think I can use a backpack instead at that point.
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Jun 3, 2015 06:09
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semon demon posted:Today I fixed up some rust on my saddlebag mounts, re-tightened my lovely cyclegear barend mirrors, and hooked up my beautiful new ram mount! Ordered a bunch of new plastics to replace my busted rear end ones too. RWB VFR? That looks like some fungal growth or something. I second that you should try a clay bar after first giving a good washing. Also, get a bike cover if it's gonna sit for a while.
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Jun 3, 2015 12:08
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Today I talked to a 5'2" lady who looked like a nice old grandma for some time about vintage bike racing. She was looking to get into it. I gave her some advice on what are the best bikes to get and what needs to be done for the first time out. She had already been doing track days on a Ninja 300. She said she used to be a professional pilot and did the Reno air races. Was heartwarming. The world needs more ladies like that. That lady sounds really cool. Is she taking applications for a grandson?
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Jun 3, 2015 18:58
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I am cursed!  After replacing the rear wheel bearings which in turn led me to discover a worn chain and a punctured rear tire, today I found two of the rear sprocket nuts over tightened and the threads stripped out. Turns out there is a typo in the FZ6 service manual torque specs. 
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Jun 3, 2015 19:28
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The torque spec typo in the Buell manual is for the oil drain plug in the cheese-hard aluminum swing arm.
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Jun 3, 2015 20:15
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Schroeder91 posted:Are those the OEM Honda side cases? Can I ask how much they run you? I'd love a set but I hear they're around $800+ and I think I can use a backpack instead at that point. They are all Honda cases. I'm not sure about the cost where you are, but they were over $1000 in Canada when we were at par with the USA. It's cheaper to buy the stays and top box mount in one kit if you're ever thinking of adding a top box.
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Jun 4, 2015 01:45
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clutchpuck posted:The torque spec typo in the Buell manual is for the oil drain plug in the cheese-hard aluminum swing arm.
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Jun 4, 2015 04:13
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SV650 manual says to hold the cam chain guide in with a screwdriver or your fingers when you have the CCT removed while turning the engine to stop it from skipping time.
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Jun 4, 2015 06:47
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Not mine but close enough: I helped the new owner of my old Ulysses reset the tps. He said it wasn't running right and the idle was shooting up to 3k. And he already replaced the intake seals. He hadn't set the throttle stop at idle position after zeroing it. Once corrected the bike runs like butter. Well... butter in a paint mixer. That's some spreadable butter. Haven't seen the bike run as good ever. Sounds like a Harley with straight pipes. So good. Potato.
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Jun 4, 2015 07:33
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clutchpuck posted:Not mine but close enough: I helped the new owner of my old Ulysses reset the tps. He said it wasn't running right and the idle was shooting up to 3k. And he already replaced the intake seals. I think this may be the issue with my Road King. Got fuel issue resolved but still running like crap. They're replacing intake seals but my gut says that isn't it. Edit: fuel issue want resolved. Two new injectors and I'm in business. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 08:04
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I changed a spark plug and added a missing screw on my carb. I also attempted to fix a gently caress up I did while changing my oil last week where I think I cross threaded the drain bolt on the oil filter cover. I ordered a new bolt which seems to have made the cover leak way less but it still leaks. Any dumb simple thing I should try before going the time-sert/helicoil route?
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Jun 5, 2015 04:24
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Apply hilarious amounts of RTV and safety wire!
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Jun 5, 2015 05:27
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I finally finished up the wiring on my vapor dash panel. Apparently when I wired it up previously the Neutral light and left signal indicator were sharing the same ground wire. The blinker worked fine in neutral but in gear the indicator wouldn't flash. It took me some thinking on how to rewire it up but it all works correctly now. I'm pretty sure I won't have to be messing with the wiring any more on this bike. /crossingmyfingers
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Jun 5, 2015 08:39
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