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Help. I need to get a new modem and router for my house due to e/n stuff. This is what I am replacing: ASUS (RT-AC68U) Wireless-AC1900 Dual-Band Gigabit Router and ARRIS / Motorola SurfBoard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem I will probably just buy the same modem, but I don't think I really need a $200 router for just me. I directly connect my PC and printer in the office to the router, while my macbook, phone, and chromecast are all wireless. If it matters, I have a 100mg cable connection.
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May 27, 2015 20:30
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Inspector_666 posted:Yeah, ASICs are basic enough that unmanaged switches are pretty much all the same thing now. 16-port and larger switches often require an active fan, smaller units can be fanless. TRENDnet have some odd compact 16 and 24 port units, one 16 port model advertised fanless. MrMoo fucked around with this message at 20:35 on May 27, 2015 |
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May 27, 2015 20:31
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Pragmatica posted:Help. I need to get a new modem and router for my house due to e/n stuff. A lot of goons have been having good luck with the Archer C7 which isn't as fancy but seems to do a good job. It's a bit less expensive than the Asus.
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May 27, 2015 20:35
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I looked that up on Amazon and found: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-1300Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ Thanks!
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May 27, 2015 20:41
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MrMoo posted:Some switches are able to power down the ASIC when not connected or in use, varies nomenclature about being "green". Except that's not a gigabit switch. Seriously, just search '16 port gigabit switch' on Amazon and get whatever's the cheapest that has gigabit or 1000mbps in the name. Right now it looks like that's a TP-Link for $65.
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May 27, 2015 21:24
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That's probably why it is fanless, their crap rear end site must be running with one as it is no longer working. Netgear faired better with a slimline 16-port model. The have another odd model range called "click mounting", example 16-port.
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May 27, 2015 21:56
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AlwaysWetID34 fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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May 27, 2015 22:18
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Pragmatica posted:I looked that up on Amazon and found: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-1300Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ That was my second choice, but I went with a cheaper n band router. Make sure yours is a V2, the V1s had trouble staying connected. That might have just been firmware, but I don't know for sure.
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May 27, 2015 22:18
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Krailor posted:Seriously, just search '16 port gigabit switch' on Amazon and get whatever's the cheapest that has gigabit or 1000mbps in the name. Right now it looks like that's a TP-Link for $65. Works for me! Thanks all
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May 27, 2015 23:14
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I switched from fibre to cable a couple of months ago and I'm getting endless trouble with my connection now. What seems to happen is that it'll work fine for a while (could be hours, could be days) but then it'll start dropping out. All the upload bandwidth disappears, then the download bandwidth, pings to google start timing out, all that sort of fun stuff. Virgin have been out and replaced the hub but that doesn't seem to have worked. The only thing that seems to put things back in order for a bit is some advice a tech on the phone gave me, which was to unscrew the coax cable, tap the inner copper bit against the outer thread on the modem coax socket and then screw it back in. No idea why that works, but it does. I'm running an archer c7 as my router, I've got Devolo powerline adapters to enable me to use my computer up in the loft. I had an e4200 up there as well but I've removed that in the interests of troubleshooting. Anyone got any ideas? I've got a tech coming tomorrow but I'm wondering if it's anything in my home setup that's causing it.
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May 28, 2015 11:24
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Fil5000 posted:The only thing that seems to put things back in order for a bit is some advice a tech on the phone gave me, which was to unscrew the coax cable, tap the inner copper bit against the outer thread on the modem coax socket and then screw it back in. No idea why that works, but it does. OR You have a improper grounding for your cable/electrical work in your house. You might have an outlet that the ground is disconnected or the ground on the outside of your house might be broken. Have an electrician check it --- Source: I was not a Virgin field tech, but I was a field tech in the US. We would tell customers about the grounding issue though - it is really easy to demonstrate because often touching it to the palm of your hand will give you a slight shock after it built up like that. We were also not licensed electricians so we couldn't actually "fix" anything. People hated us for their houses lovely wiring all the time 
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May 28, 2015 12:46
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stuxracer posted:Just resetting the device. A lot of the time people refuse to unplug power outlets so having them unscrew the coax is a good way to reset it so the customer says "I reset my modem, no really" when they didn't do poo poo. Huh. Interesting. And this wouldn't have been something that would have affected my previous fibre connection? Or could it just be the cable connection that isn't grounded?
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May 28, 2015 14:00
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Fil5000 posted:Huh. Interesting. And this wouldn't have been something that would have affected my previous fibre connection? Or could it just be the cable connection that isn't grounded? Back to the cable tech: When we connect cable, we also ground it to that same home ground mostly for the same reasons. Fiber would not because there is not risk of it happening across glass like it would with copper. The static build up is a sign something is weird with the grounding. The fact that discharging it alleviates your issue is why I am suggesting it as a possible cause. You touching the copper core to something metal is that discharging part. Your cable company should come out to verify their ground is still properly connected to the home ground and if so should recommend having an electrician check it out. stuxracer fucked around with this message at 15:35 on May 28, 2015 |
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May 28, 2015 15:33
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stuxracer posted:Disclaimer again I am not an electrician for others reading if I need correcting, but this is what they would say. We used to have to contract them out for customers to prove/fix issues. The ground is to protect you from your house burning down (lightning hits power line running to your house) and to remove static build up among other things. Ok, cool, all makes sense. I will ask the tech about that tomorrow if they attempt to just swap the modem out and leave again. I'm now wondering if changing my powerline adapters has had any effect on this, as the Devolo ones tout the fact that they use the ground wires as well as the live/neutral ones to get better speed.
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May 28, 2015 15:47
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Hey, if I were to theoretically make a new thread on this subject, with a new OP and all that jazz, would anybody care to write up something about m0n0wall/pfSense?
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May 28, 2015 17:13
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Inspector_666 posted:Hey, if I were to theoretically make a new thread on this subject, with a new OP and all that jazz, would anybody care to write up something about m0n0wall/pfSense? Not sure if m0n0wall still needs to be mentioned, project came to an end earlier this year.
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May 28, 2015 20:41
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phosdex posted:Not sure if m0n0wall still needs to be mentioned, project came to an end earlier this year. This is why I need somebody else to write that section 
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May 28, 2015 20:48
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Inspector_666 posted:Hey, if I were to theoretically make a new thread on this subject, with a new OP and all that jazz, would anybody care to write up something about m0n0wall/pfSense? I can't write it, but I'd like to read it! I'd particularly appreciate a tl;dr that explains whether or not there actually are any practical benefits for the average home user, or whether you shouldn't even think about it you gigantic goddamn nerd, just get a $75 router jesus christ.
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May 28, 2015 21:13
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NIGARS posted:I can't write it, but I'd like to read it! I'd particularly appreciate a tl;dr that explains whether or not there actually are any practical benefits for the average home user, or whether you shouldn't even think about it you gigantic goddamn nerd, just get a $75 router jesus christ. I don't really use PFsense at home, but I do support a few companies that use it for their firewalls. I guess if I had to do a small OP blurb in the style of the current OP, it would be: Pros: More Features than you will ever need for a home network. Can be easily loaded onto a bootable flash drive. Looks to have an Active Support Community Cons: PC Hardware is either bulky, or expensive. Wireless support sucks, so you'd probably still want to buy a separate AP anyway. The thing with PFsense is while it does a lot of things, and works really well. I would really have a hard time recommending it to a home user. Mostly due to the fact, that I have a hard time recommending a home user either use a full PC to replace something that can mostly be done on a device that takes way less power and a fraction of the size, or spend a lot more money to get a small, low power PC to power their PFsense machine. I also think the lack of good wireless support would be a killer for someone who just wants to do everything in one box. Especially since you can get firmware that does most of these things, and probably everything you need on existing wireless routers. Though I think that prices on small PC's are starting to come down enough to make it worthwhile, but it is not quite there yet. If I wanted to up my nerd game, I'd consider very small PC and use my Asus as an AP. Which has the benefit of when 802.11wtf comes out, I can just replace the wireless portion of and keep the firewall in place.
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May 29, 2015 01:16
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stuxracer posted:Just resetting the device. A lot of the time people refuse to unplug power outlets so having them unscrew the coax is a good way to reset it so the customer says "I reset my modem, no really" when they didn't do poo poo. I didn't do the tapping thing the person you replied to mentioned, but I have really noticed a difference in unplugging the coax. Before I've had problems restarting the modem, or even completely unplugging the power didn't fix. But as soon as I undid the coax the same length of time as previous attempts, it solved my problem.
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May 29, 2015 02:21
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I don't really see why this thread would need to get into m0n0wall or pfsense other than just mentioning they exist. If someone is savvy enough to use that at home they are savvy enough to do their own research. This thread is in dire need of an update on "the basics." Just my opinion.
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May 29, 2015 03:27
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Magwai posted:I don't really use PFsense at home, but I do support a few companies that use it for their firewalls. I guess if I had to do a small OP blurb in the style of the current OP, it would be: You can also buy a pre-made pfSense router SG-2220 for $299 direct, there's also a place where you can buy a parts to kit a small form factor router to load pfSense that's even less but I think they've been on back order forever (been a while since I searched for it). Personally, I bought a ZyXel ZyWall USG20 for my home gateway. The main reason was for IPSec/SSL VPN, since I don't/won't subscribe to the whitelist and integrated AV stuff with these. If I had to do it over, I'd probably lay out the extra cash for the pfSense router. It's not that the USG20 can't do what I need, it's that CLI configuration is an unmitigated pain in my rear end. Whereas every other device I touch with work and in my home lab, I can use command abbreviations (i.e. "sh" for "show"), the latest firmware on the ZyWall requires the entire command, so I find myself typing stuff over a lot. However, like Magwai I don't recommend these kind of devices unless you have a specific use for them. For 99.9% of home networks, with some configuration tweaks, the built in SPF in stock or custom firmware on COTS wireless routers should be enough. Internet Explorer posted:I don't really see why this thread would need to get into m0n0wall or pfsense other than just mentioning they exist. If someone is savvy enough to use that at home they are savvy enough to do their own research. This thread is in dire need of an update on "the basics." Just my opinion. Agreed.
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May 29, 2015 04:52
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Maybe there could be a "I know what I'm doing or am technically inclined and am not afraid to learn" section with pfsense boxes, mikrotik routers, maybe ubiquiti all mentioned. They all sort of straddle the line between business/enterprise and higher end home use. I'm sure there are some other small office/home office manufacturers I'm forgetting as well. They may not need a whole lot of detail since the folks looking for that kind of thing will go browsing other sites for more info (and there's a mikrotik thread).
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May 29, 2015 05:15
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Hi guys, if I'm trying to make a site to site VPN, between a head office and a factory, should I just get two PFsense boxes and be done with it? Or should I just get something like this? http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Firewall-FVS318G-200NAS/dp/B00QR6XGUW/ref=pd_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0407S78WSMEHQHJCD868 Do I need open VPN or can i just use IPSEC?
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May 29, 2015 17:02
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IPsec tends to be more reliable, an alternative would be Ubiquiti Edge Routers, not sure if all support VPN though. Depends if the additional functionality of pfSense is a bonus? I find recycled appliances on Ebay with pfSense pre-installed work well, but not ones with custom modifications like required for Firebox. Ideally find something without a custom power brick as that usually fails first, until USB-C is more widespread that usually means larger rack units which unfortunately can have really loud fan units. Random pfSense appliance on Ebay. MrMoo fucked around with this message at 17:18 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 17:13
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Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to distinguish traffic? For instance, if I'm just surfing online or gaming, there's no need to go through the VPN, but if it's work related traffic or circumventing the great firewall, it's automatic port fowarding
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May 29, 2015 17:58
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Anyone able to help? My girlfriend and I have relatively new (1-2 yo) laptops. They were fairly cheap, c£350. The wifi sometimes breaks, in windows 8 the connection says "limited" and it won't do anything. To fix it I can usually just use windows troubleshooting (which I think basically just turns the wifi adapter off and on after some tests), or just manually turn it off and on. It's manageable, but annoying. Generally it doesnt do it much, but it's worse when downloading stuff (rather than just browsing) or when there's a weak signal. Router is an archer c7, nothing else has problems so I don't think it's anything to do with that. Laptops I think both have it down as Qualcomm atheros ar9485wb-eg wireless network adapter in device manager. Also I have TAP-windows adapter v9 in there. No idea what that is. Cheers
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May 29, 2015 18:20
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caberham posted:Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to distinguish traffic? For instance, if I'm just surfing online or gaming, there's no need to go through the VPN, but if it's work related traffic or circumventing the great firewall, it's automatic port fowarding Some kind of HTTP proxy on pfSense that only uses the VPN interface and then configure clients on an URL basis to go DIRECT or use the PROXY. I've done it to access the BBC in China, the setup is OK but looking after it is not user friendly. (edit) Actually it looks like some extensions in Chrome can help out these days, you can configure the extension to enable proxy usage for certain URLs. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/proxy-switchyomega/padekgcemlokbadohgkifijomclgjgif?hl=en-US MrMoo fucked around with this message at 18:29 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 18:25
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caberham posted:Hi guys, if I'm trying to make a site to site VPN, between a head office and a factory, should I just get two PFsense boxes and be done with it? Or should I just get something like this? Friends don't let friends buy netgear firewalls. MrMoo posted:IPsec tends to be more reliable, an alternative would be Ubiquiti Edge Routers, not sure if all support VPN though. Depends if the additional functionality of pfSense is a bonus? I find recycled appliances on Ebay with pfSense pre-installed work well, but not ones with custom modifications like required for Firebox. Ubiquiti Edgerouters from the ER-Lite and higher all have hardware IPSec acceleration built in. They're just not the most "user friendly" devices unless you want to dig into the command-line interface and google search tutorials/configs (or lern 2 netwurk gud nub). caberham posted:Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to distinguish traffic? For instance, if I'm just surfing online or gaming, there's no need to go through the VPN, but if it's work related traffic or circumventing the great firewall, it's automatic port fowarding You're basically asking for a "split tunnel" which any reasonably feature-complete VPN/firewall device should be able to do. All a split-tunnel does is allow you to pre-determine what the far-end LAN's network addresses are, and only send THAT traffic over the VPN tunnel. Everyone should be using split tunnels unless they have a specific reason not to. (IP masking, evading netflix bans etc) MrMoo posted:It's a mixed bag, layer 3 (IP) based routing is fine but websites these days tend to work better at layer 7 (URLs). pfSense has a package system to add on software that can perform layer 7 logic to some degree or other, it would require some effort. Once your machine does a DNS name-to-IP lookup, it's all IP routing from there. Slapping L7 proccessing on top won't change the fact that you're actually sending traffic to protocol://<IP-address>/URL-req/foo/bar and not to "domain-name" CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:49 on May 29, 2015 |
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May 29, 2015 18:46
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CrazyLittle posted:Friends don't let friends buy netgear firewalls. This sounds great, any directions where I can learn how to set things up?
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May 29, 2015 18:56
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CrazyLittle posted:Friends don't let friends buy netgear firewalls. This sounds great, any directions where I can learn how to set things up?
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May 29, 2015 18:56
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caberham posted:
So if you can get a Draytek device that does everything you want then they're perfect. Just be prepared to test/eval and possibly return. caberham posted:
The "toughswitch carrier" is funny as gently caress that they sincerely thought it was a good solution to take two 8-port switches and stick them in an aluminum rack mount, then claim you get "16 ports" out of the deal. No, you get 13 client ports because you need one cross-connect between switches (that's -2) and one uplink to your other switch/router/firewall (and another -1) Zero handoff is garbage, and I'm pretty confident in saying it's bad regardless of AP vendor hardware because the wifi handoff is more appropriately a function of the client device and not the AP. Also Apple OSX networking is a sin against all computers. I mean really, they suck at networking. Like really really bad. pfSense is good for an open source firewall. I used to run m0n0wall for years. My only reservation about going down that route again these days is that you're on the hook for supporting/replacing the hardware components as well as the software side. With toaster-like devices that have a proper CLI and cisco-or-juniper-ish text configs, you can backup your config and always restore it to another device of the same model. That's not always true with generic x86 OSS firewalls because your interface numbering may shift from computer to computer. This also applies to Vyatta, which Ubiquiti forked to make their Edgemax devices. At least with pfSense they offer paid-support options which I'm sure you can hit them up for VPN config questions (or "ask anything as long as you're paying" types of questions). caberham posted:This sounds great, any directions where I can learn how to set things up?
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May 29, 2015 19:52
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So, is there a "complete idiots guide to setting up an edgerouter lite" type tutorial site out there? I've used the wizard to set up my dual wan configuration, but I'd like to tweak how it does load balancing (namely I don't want it to). Ideally set it up such that: All internet traffic goes to wan1 .. except any traffic originating from one specific internal IP which I want exclusive to wan2 both of them failing over to the other wan if theirs is down Is that possible? Is there a good place to learn how? You'd think after spending 5 years working for a company that made (  ) core routers I'd have learned something, but I didn't
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May 29, 2015 21:41
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Basic Setup: https://wiki.ubnt.com/SOHO_Edgemax_Example Source IP routing with failover: https://wiki.ubnt.com/EdgePBR If you want to do by destination port (HTTP/HTTPS one way, FTP another): https://wiki.ubnt.com/EdgeOS_PBR_Destination_Based
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May 30, 2015 01:36
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I... was completely unaware of their wiki. Thats very helpful, thanks!
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May 30, 2015 01:58
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CrazyLittle posted:Once your machine does a DNS name-to-IP lookup, it's all IP routing from there. Slapping L7 proccessing on top won't change the fact that you're actually sending traffic to protocol://<IP-address>/URL-req/foo/bar and not to "domain-name" This isn't entirely true. HTTP requests do contain the host name and the URI being requested. So the layer 3 IP header will just contain an IP but the layer 7 HTTP header will have the full URL if you put the two (host + URI) together. Squid on pfSense can do all sorts of things with this if you want to treat traffic for one site differently than traffic for other sites. Enterprise grade firewalls and load balancers often use HTTP header contents to filter and load balance traffic. This is also how many web servers out there host more than one site on a single IP address. HTTPS traffic also contains all of this same information, it's just encrypted, which makes doing anything with it basically impossible most of the time because devices in the middle, like firewalls, can't read it. Depending on how you configure it and how much traffic you are dealing with Squid can use an awful lot of CPU, RAM, or even disk space and running your own Squid proxy is well beyond typical home networking. For general VPN use I would just go with layer 3 split tunneling. Its much easier. If you need to switch between split tunneling and a tunnel all setup then just run two different VPN profiles and connect to whichever one you need at the time. With OpenVPN the easiest way to do this is to run each tunnel on a different port. VPNs generally don't look at traffic past layer 4 so trying to do layer 7 stuff on a VPN is going to be really annoying. Antillie fucked around with this message at 05:42 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 05:25
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I'm not sure if this is the right place for this, but I have a question about a windows process. dnscache under svchost seems to be using a lot of memory, but I don't really know if that's normal or not. http://i.imgur.com/xUcd09Q.jpg Is that just natural for it to grow that big? Last reboot was about 5 days ago. This is on win7. edit: it's grown to 320 mb now since I took that screenshot this morning blackflare fucked around with this message at 23:23 on May 30, 2015 |
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May 30, 2015 15:12
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Well, I just installed my new TP-Link 3600 modem to replace the lovely Linksys one I bought from Best Buy a week ago. I want from ~35 down on wireless to 60 down. I am satisfied with my purchase, considering that I replaced the Best Buy modem with an identical model for $13 less, which made the whole thing a wash in terms of cost.
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May 30, 2015 20:59
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blackflare posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place for this, but I have a question about a windows process. dnscache under svchost seems to be using a lot of memory, but I don't really know if that's normal or not. This probably belongs in Haus of Tech Support.
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May 31, 2015 02:20
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Oh right, sorry about that. Its so tiny up there I forgot about it 
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May 31, 2015 03:24
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