|
Re: Flat finishes, you could ask a local paint store about a flattening agent for whatever film finish you want. I've never used any though, just have heard about it, so you might not find anything for this application. You'll need either a good automotive paint store, or a house paint store, Big Box paint counter people probably won't have a clue what it is.
|
#
?
May 28, 2015 22:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:32 |
|
|
ArtistCeleste posted:
Hurrying down the stairs and smashing my pelvic girdle on that rail would happen at least twice a week.
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2015 07:13
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I'll just leave this here. ... and no one made a "Hey, they're almost finished building your moms vibrator!" joke?
|
|
#
?
May 29, 2015 12:05
|
|
|
https://www.abana.org/downloads/controlled_hand_forging/CHF_9.pdf I did a variation on this technique. I used a smithy magician to cut it. Anytime I am doing a partial cut I keep the edges a little round, maybe a 1/16" on the end. I stop about 1/16" or so from the thickness of my tenon. You are correct, any deeper can result in tears or cold shuts. Then I drew it out on the power hammer. You could easily also change the dies on the smithy magician and draw it out using flat dies. To clean up the shoulder I used a square monkey tool that I made from drilling a hole through a thick piece of round stock and then hammering it square and drifting to size. I got the instructions from Aspery's book on joinery. The drift was a double ended square drift about 2% larger than the intended size of the tenon. I also cleaned it up with a file and a die grinder so that the tenon would fit very snuggly in my drifted holes. You can of course hammer down the head and use a small hammer for fine detail. I did a bunch of test pieces that way. Then I took a piece of 3/4" square and ground the end to a pyramid. I took a piece of 1", drew out a handle for it and drove the pyramid end into the slightly flattened end of the one inch to create a header tool. It was much quicker and more uniform with a header tool. Slung Blade, I will definitely test out your advice. It sounds like the best solution so far. ArtistCeleste fucked around with this message at 17:49 on May 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 29, 2015 17:24
|
|
|
I have no pictures, obviously, but I spent the day in the national history museum of Armenia. Holy crap, the stuff they were doing with chasing and repousse here over 4000 years ago was just stunning. Like, setting aside the jewellery and adornments, which where insanely intricate, there was stuff like a 43x56cm copper cauldron. The impressive thing was, it was chased from a single sheet!  10/10 if you like exhibitions of incredibly ancient metalwork, my mind was melting at the engraving detail they were putting on this stuff in 2500 BCe. I think there's some examples on the website, not sure. EDIT: went to another museum today. Imagine chasing a 4x4 foot shield cone, and then doing intricate figures of lions and battle scenes on it. Thousands of times because these weren't ceremonial. In 800 BCe. Rime fucked around with this message at 12:48 on Jun 2, 2015 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 13:23
|
|
|
It's incredible what you can get done if you don't have the internet to distract you.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
So I have a question about homemade refractory for gas forges and furnaces. I have on hand: Bentonite, EPK and a Cream fireclays, Quickcete Mortar Mix, Type 1 Portland cement, Quickcrete Ready Mix, Vermiculite that isn't a powder (but could be I suppose), Quick Lime, and Quickrete Play Sand. I know some combination of these makes refractory cement, but I'm having trouble determining exactly what, and if the rations are by weight or volume.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 21:05
|
|
|
If you can find a place that can supply those materials, I guarantee that they can supply a superior premade refractory straight out of a bag, no need to mix it yourself. If you really want to diy it, it'll take experimentation due to variances in the materials available to you in your location. Especially if your supplier collects material locally. Ground chemistry is loving weird. Sorry, I don't have any ratios or advice for you beyond that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 22:01
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEktwaAsv_Y This is from a channel I've been watching for a while; these guys make functional replicas of movie and video game weapons. Normally they use modern techniques with some occasional old school blacksmithing, but this video is a little different. They've been tasked with building Narsil, Aragorn's sword from Lord of the Rings, using only "19th century techniques." The level of skill on display is impressive. Although they gloss over the amount of time it takes, this is one of the best "how a real sword is made" videos I've seen.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2015 22:22
|
|
|
Slung Blade posted:If you can find a place that can supply those materials, I guarantee that they can supply a superior premade refractory straight out of a bag, no need to mix it yourself. Half the materials I had on hand. The three clays I bought from one of the larger ceramics suppliers on the east coast (or so I was told) which also happens to be localish. They do sell commercial refractory, but only in 55lb bags at $112. I got 25lbs of all three of those clays (the Benoite more for green sand) for $15 total. The lime and vermiculite I have from their normal uses (gardening) and the cement/mortar mix/concrete from a construction project (building my blacksmith shop). Since buying the premix refractory isn't economically viable at this time, and the extra powdered clay can be turned into pottery (and crucibles) that's the route I went. I haven't mixed anything together as I said because I can't find solid information that isn't either conjecture or wildly debated as working/not working. I don't actually know the source of the clays as far as where the supplier gets them. Once I can get my ratio figured out and mixed up, I have a gas forge with kaowool already installed just waiting for the refractory to coat it. What ever is left I'll line a freon tank and turn it into a dedicated foundry furnace. Kasan fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jun 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 00:54
|
|
|
David Gingery has the ratio in his Charcoal Foundry book. I just looked, and can't find the loving thing, but it's what I used to make my refractory mix and it's stood up for 6+ years and now brass melts. The internet says it was 2:1 sand to fireclay, but I seem to recall I added something else.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 01:20
|
|
|
Hu Fa Ted posted:David Gingery has the ratio in his Charcoal Foundry book. I just looked, and can't find the loving thing, but it's what I used to make my refractory mix and it's stood up for 6+ years and now brass melts. The internet says it was 2:1 sand to fireclay, but I seem to recall I added something else. David Gingery posted:Two parts of silica sand mixed with one part fire clay is the forumla that was used for many years to patch the linings of blast furnaces and to line ladles. I used grog [crushed firebrick] in the mix when I built the first furnace, but I left it out when I built the second one. I can't say that I see any differencein the linings after firing. Totally forgot I have his entire book series
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2015 19:09
|
|
|
I have been busy cleaning up something neat I got at a garage sale last week I think it is drummond round bed lathe or at least an australian copy of one, I'd ask the previous owner but he passed away a few months ago  ,it's a real shame since I'd really like to know what happened to the treadle drive not to mention how in the heck an appliance repairman ends up with a big honking turbine blade 
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 06:56
|
|
|
Kasan posted:Totally forgot I have his entire book series I started working on the Gingery Lathe years ago and realized what a colossal time investment it was for building a machine that wouldn't be as good as the piece of poo poo Harbor Freight sold (at the time) for $350. The charcoal forge book though is pretty much invaluable. coldpudding posted:I have been busy cleaning up something neat I got at a garage sale last week I am seriously confused, is that a wood lathe on steroids or a really bad metal lathe? It certainly looks neat, I'll agree.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 04:02
|
|
|
Hu Fa Ted posted:is that a wood lathe on steroids or a really bad metal lathe?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 09:32
|
|
|
coldpudding posted:I can always go down to the local mens shed Australian version of either a makerspace or bear-specific gay-sex-meetup association? Either way, good for you.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 15:52
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:Australian version of either a makerspace or bear-specific gay-sex-meetup association? You're just jealous, I know I am. Look at that hot woodworking on their homepage.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 04:11
|
|
|
It's doubtless been posted before in this thread but I never get tired of looking at http://www.lathes.co.uk/drummondroundbed/
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 08:58
|
|
|
Screwed around with foldforming-based 'chasing on air' on some 1/4" copper tubing that I bent into a bracelet. Got some hella nice results for an hour or two of initially-aimless farting around; it developed as I went so there are some screw-ups, like a couple 'cell' walls collapsed because I chased too greedily and too deep, but it isn't too obvious. It rules to not have to work with pitch, things go 20 times faster. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 22:43
|
|
|
i got all hosed up on mad max and couldnt help myself Needs one more course of chasing to smooth out n texture the front, then I can trim it from the sheet and stick a chain on it and make a big gaudy pendant
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 04:31
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:i got all hosed up on mad max and couldnt help myself Please tell me you're going to make this and advertise them in AI? I'm sure you would sell a few dozen.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 06:48
|
|
|
just got a new winch bumper cut at the local plasma cutter's for 200 bucks including metal..... some guy on my 4runner forum is an engineer for an appliance company and designed his own bumper and then started selling the cad drawings. even after paying for a welding machine and even if I gently caress up enough to have to get new metal cut several times, I'll still be saving money compared to buying pre-made 
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 07:35
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Please tell me you're going to make this and advertise them in AI? I'm sure you would sell a few dozen. Nah, this one's one-of-a-kind- it just takes too long to do stuff by hand the old n slow way to do actual production runs. Now, if I had a hydraulic press and a micro CNC mill to cut dies with...
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 15:48
|
|
|
What about carving a pattern into graphite and then hacking up a sinker EDM machine to make complex punches?
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 18:44
|
|
|
MANGOSTEEN CURES P posted:What about carving a pattern into graphite and then hacking up a sinker EDM machine to make complex punches? lol
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 19:18
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:i got all hosed up on mad max and couldnt help myself Are you using a pitch pot for these?
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 23:57
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2015 00:01
|
|
|
That guys videos are great. He's like a modern (Canadian) Fred Dibnah.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2015 12:45
|
|
|
M_Gargantua posted:Are you using a pitch pot for these? Yep. I'm doing a step-by-step photolog of the process for this piece, I'll post it when it's done
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
I know that this exists and have been subscribed to this guy for a while. I was actually laughing at the idea of "hacking up" an EDM machine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2015 04:38
|
|
|
I guess robotics/electric-knowing nerds could do it but both of those things are mystifying to me in the extreme soooo e: and having some sort of CAD/CAM capability is important for making dies or positives in the first place 'cause I can't freehand carve for poo poo, EDM wouldn't actually help with that
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2015 18:38
|
|
|
So I'm designing a belt sander and I'm having a lot of trouble finding an optimal speed for the sanding belt itself (for primarily sanding steel, think knife maker's belt sander). My design will use 2"x72" belts. Anyone know what sort of speed I should be aiming for this belt to flow at? My current pulley setup has it going 33.04 km/h (or 361.28 inches per second or 1806.42 feet per minute) and not sure if this will generate too much heat or not... I'm having some trouble finding resources for that. So I figured I drop the question here while I keep looking. The RECAPITATOR fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jun 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2015 20:52
|
|
|
 Got it (partially) planished and burnished and have partially textured it. I need to get better at composition and "less is more", I blanket stuff with texture to clean up rickety repousse but I could (for instance) communicate movement in the flames with far fewer liner marks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 03:07
|
|
|
The RECAPITATOR posted:So I'm designing a belt sander and I'm having a lot of trouble finding an optimal speed for the sanding belt itself (for primarily sanding steel, think knife maker's belt sander). My design will use 2"x72" belts. Anyone know what sort of speed I should be aiming for this belt to flow at? Motor should be spinning at 1750 rpm and direct drive on the belt. If you can't direct drive, set up your gearing to have a 1:1.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 11:47
|
|
|
Kasan posted:Motor should be spinning at 1750 rpm and direct drive on the belt. If you can't direct drive, set up your gearing to have a 1:1. Pulley size?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 11:54
|
|
|
Our belt grinder is 1hp and 5500fpm. Use cloth belts, paper will catch fire and/or explode. Zirconia alumina belts are almost twice the price, but last many times longer on normal steel than aluminum oxide. e: This is for rapid material removal. I couldn't tell you about polishing with belts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 15:50
|
|
|
oxbrain posted:Our belt grinder is 1hp and 5500fpm. Use cloth belts, paper will catch fire and/or explode. Z/A belts are also a million times more effective. Seriously, gently caress those red belts you get at hardware stores, blue is pro. Polishing is just as easy, just go up in grit count as necessary.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 21:30
|
|
|
Kasan posted:Motor should be spinning at 1750 rpm and direct drive on the belt. If you can't direct drive, set up your gearing to have a 1:1. Ok... so right now I have my motor which runs at 1725 RPM (close enough). On the motor shaft I have a 4 inch diam pulley (PA) which links to a 2 inch diam pulley (PB) via V-Belt. PB is linked, by the same shaft, to a wheel (WA) which is 6 inch diam - WA will move the sanding belt. Then there's an adjustable spring-clutch wheel later in the mechanism to give tension depending on the tool attached to the grinder. So: PA rotates at 1725 rpm - moves 361.28 inches of V-Belt per second PB rotates at 3450 rpm (2:1 from PA) WA is on the same shaft as PB, so it also rotates at 3450 rpm and it moves 1083.85 inches of sanding belt per second (or 99.11 km/h). Considering the belt is 2 inches wide, this means I have 903.21 square feet of belt per minute. I can always modify the pulleys and wheels on the design to get the ideal speed for the sanding belt (which is still a bit of a mystery to me). Though I've seen on some forums that 900 sfpm is acceptable though a bit on the low end. I'm alright with that since I'm just a hobbyist and this is kind of a cheap grinder I'm throwing together as cheaply as possible.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2015 01:09
|
|
|
The measurement is linear surface feet, not square feet, so belt width doesn't factor into it. Spinning a 6" diameter wheel at 3450rpm gives 5447sfpm. It isn't an exact science. If your motor can take it and you're impatient, go faster. If you run out of power, if the machine starts vibrating too much, or if you suck at managing heat, go slower*. * Use coolant. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 11:32 |
|
|
I got a killer deal on a practically brand-new lincoln arc welder this weekend, guy down the street passed away a little while back and his super-well-stocked shop is getting cleaned out. Got a bunch of extra clamps and extension wires with it, too, I didn't even see them but the lady running the thing was just like "Hey you want these too?" so into the truck they went. Anyhow, long story short, I don't know how to weld yet, I've just been waiting for the right opportunity, and here it is. I realize I'm not going to be doing any fine work, that this is more for, like, building frames or fixing your tractor in the field or whatever, but that's great, I'm cool with that, so I'm looking for some basic "how to not kill yourself while making two pieces of metal stick together" type guide for babby's first weld job. I flat out don't have time/energy to enroll in a community college course, I'm just looking for some basic starter guide. Anyone have recommended links, etc.? Alternately, if the recommended advice is "Don't touch that tombstone until you've done some other type of welding first" I'm okay with that too, I don't mind sitting on this thing until I have other skills, it was still the right price. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jun 16, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2015 02:08
|
|
