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slidebite posted:Further compounding it is that it's a Subaru so if I replace it, I'm probably replacing 4.. which really sucks as they are probably 80%+. If Tire Rack sells the tire they offer a shaving service.
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Jun 1, 2015 01:12
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Would definitely reccomend a shaving service if you are at 80% tread on the other 3 tires. On subarus you can get away with 2/32 of an inch difference, but better safe than sorry. Go on tire rack, get a single tire shaved to spec and shipped to your preffered shop.
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Jun 1, 2015 01:47
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I am in Canada and to further compound the problem I need to be on the road Friday am.... so I don't think I can risk ordering a shaved single at this point although I do like the idea. I only have 4 days and no margin for error in delivery time. If it's bad I think I am stuck buying a new set. Is the consensus that its in too bad of a spot for the plug?
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Jun 1, 2015 01:54
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slidebite posted:Is the consensus that its in too bad of a spot for the plug? I don't know - I've never had a tire shop willing to plug a hole that close to the shoulder but OTOH they'd rather sell you a $100+ new tire vs. $15 for a plug.
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Jun 1, 2015 01:57
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mr.belowaverage posted:For my question, crossposted from the Volvo thread due to low traffic: Quoting myself for followup. It rained literally all day today, but it just stopped long enough to pull the intake and MAF. MAF is pristine, almost new looking. Bosch unit, so exact OEM. Intake is clear, no cracks or anything. Now I'm at a loss..
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Jun 1, 2015 02:11
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Uthor posted:My GTI has different bulbs for flash to pass versus turning on the high beams, but it also has HID bulbs for the low/high beams. Could be, the smaller inner headlight is turning on when I pull the stalk towards me, nothing happens when I push forward. I will return them.
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Jun 1, 2015 02:15
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slidebite posted:I am in Canada and to further compound the problem I need to be on the road Friday am.... so I don't think I can risk ordering a shaved single at this point although I do like the idea. I only have 4 days and no margin for error in delivery time. If it's bad I think I am stuck buying a new set. It's still within the tread area, but personally I'd just make sure your spare is inflated, and probably carry a plug kit + 12 volt compressor in case that plug works its way out.
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Jun 1, 2015 03:35
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If the hole going in was small and clean, and it's not a performance tire (V-rated or higher) I'd probably patch that. That said, the patch/plug combos we use at work suck that close to the sidewall radius, but the smallest (1/8") normally does it. Otherwise, I'd probably try a plug and separate patch, since the separate patches are thinner and more flexible. Giving it plenty of time to cure the patch cement and a good clean area inside the tire are probably key. Official policy is not to patch anything in that outer tread block, but we're a pretty giant chain, so liability rules are a big thing. If it were my car, I'd probably give it a shot. And carry a goober plug kit and an inflated spare just in case.
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Jun 1, 2015 04:51
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Well it was a screw, so clean is relative. It did go in at about a 70 degree angle from straight, so I don't know if that's good or bad. I used the cleaning reamer on on it and let the glue and plug cure for about an hour before I pressured it up. I don't think the neighborhood tire shop is going to be too willing to throw a patch inside it so I'm probably stuck using the plug only...short of putting some slime in it or something.
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Jun 1, 2015 05:08
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Straight is all relative to the inside layer, that close to the edge it's all kind of a wash. How tight was the plug? If you had to use a lot of force to get it in, and it hasn't been leaking/no oddities in the sidewall or tread, you'll probably be ok. Tires are pretty miraculous things, they'll take a fair bit of abuse before they fail. If you notice any strange wear, bubbling, or bulging near the plug, you've probably got internal damage and should replace it. Otherwise, I'd keep your spare aired up, and maybe see if you can find someone willing to just throw a flat patch over the inside of the puncture.
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Jun 1, 2015 14:22
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It was pretty tight, but I had to redo it because I didn't let the glue sit long enough before pressuring it up. Pulled the old plug, gave it another quick ream, inserted new plug, let it sit for an hour before air and it's been fine since. If it was just a city car I wouldn't be so damned anal and concerned, but I am literally driving 3000KMs through the Nevada and Oregon desert this weekend/next week and if the tire gets hosed, I don't want to be stranded in some podunk town because my temp spare isn't going to make it to Reno. I slept on it, I think I'm going to replace them. I'm going to have this in the back of my mind the whole trip if I don't. I'll put these under the deck and see if I can get something out of them.
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Jun 1, 2015 14:31
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Is it not possible to find a local place to do the shaving of a new tire? Is your spare the same size? I can't imagine having to buy 4 new tires to get 1 new tire, but I guess that's the dilemma of the AWD driver  e: Can you buy a decent used set for the trip and order the new tire to put on when you get back?
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Jun 1, 2015 16:52
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So I'm looking at a 2000 Toyota Tacoma. I know that these had issues with frame rust, and that this truck is outside of Toyota's replacement window. I took some pictures of the worst of it, does this look concerning or normal and expected? http://imgur.com/a/10Jkb
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Jun 1, 2015 20:30
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HummedExplosions posted:So I'm looking at a 2000 Toyota Tacoma. I know that these had issues with frame rust, and that this truck is outside of Toyota's replacement window. I took some pictures of the worst of it, does this look concerning or normal and expected? It doesn't look nearly as bad as a lot of them, but I'd want to poke around at it. Like literally poke at the rust, and not just in the easy to access spots.
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Jun 1, 2015 20:35
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I have a Fumoto valve, and it's not quite sealing at the pan-valve point, so I have a very small leak. I have a spare crush washer. Should I take that and put it between the valve's rubber gasket and the pan, or will two gaskets gently caress up the seal even more? Also, I haven't had a leak before, so I've never been overly worried about oil levels. I have been checking my level every few days. I have been noticing that even after I wipe off the dipstick, put it back in, and pull it out, the wet section goes way above the full marker. Is that what I'm looking for, or is it a bead of oil? I did check, and there is no foaming of the oil when checked while running, so the crank isn't aerating the oil. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 16:08
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Last night I was rear-ended at a stoplight (wtf, I know). It felt like a decent bump, but neither car suffered any visible damage whatsoever, no paint, dents, nothing. Would reporting this accident to the insurance company mean that my rates would go up and/or would it affect my car's future resale value to have been reported as being in an accident? Also, am I legally required to report it in this case? I live in Massachusetts.
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Jun 2, 2015 18:08
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LargeHadron posted:Last night I was rear-ended at a stoplight (wtf, I know). It felt like a decent bump, but neither car suffered any visible damage whatsoever, no paint, dents, nothing. Would reporting this accident to the insurance company mean that my rates would go up and/or would it affect my car's future resale value to have been reported as being in an accident? Also, am I legally required to report it in this case? In Massachusetts, all car accidents in which any person is killed or injured, or in which there is damage in excess of $1,000 to any one vehicle or other property, must be reported within 5 days. So nope you should be fine. Top of the RMV form to report accidents https://www.massrmv.com/rmv/forms/21278.pdf
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Jun 2, 2015 18:28
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I have a question about some trouble codes and if I can maybe figure out what's going on or if I should just let a shop handle it. I'm usually pretty good at mechanical and electrical type stuff, but I don't really do any work on my car. The car is a 2007 Chevy Aveo5 LS with a 1.6L 4 cylinder engine. First code is P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. From what I've read, that might be a problem with an O2 sensor or the catalytic converter. I recorded some readings from the two O2 sensors.   I think the first one is okay, but maybe the peaks are a little low? The second graph should be more of a flat line, shouldn't it? Is there anything I can do to figure out if it's the sensor or the converter? Or am I completely wrong here? The second code is P2076 - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance. I found some info about replacing either part 7 or 43 from this diagram. Is that likely to be correct or is it too much of a guess to be worth trying? Any more diagnosis I could do with relatively basic tools? We'll probably end up at the shop, but I figured I'd at least look into doing it myself first.
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Jun 2, 2015 19:00
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LargeHadron posted:Last night I was rear-ended at a stoplight (wtf, I know). It felt like a decent bump, but neither car suffered any visible damage whatsoever, no paint, dents, nothing. Would reporting this accident to the insurance company mean that my rates would go up and/or would it affect my car's future resale value to have been reported as being in an accident? Also, am I legally required to report it in this case? Report it to your insurance in case the guy tries to do something stupid like claim his radiator is shot. No-fault no-damage reports won't do anything to your rates. Just make sure you're not making a claim: just a report.
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Jun 2, 2015 19:09
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Report it to your insurance in case the guy tries to do something stupid like claim his radiator is shot. No-fault no-damage reports won't do anything to your rates. Ok, thanks. This is helpful, as I did not know there was a difference between a claim and a report.
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Jun 2, 2015 19:12
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LargeHadron posted:Ok, thanks. This is helpful, as I did not know there was a difference between a claim and a report. There isn't at a lot of insurance companies. Once they are aware, they'd set up a claim. There may be damage underneath to the impact absorber (styrofoam, hydraulic, etc) that you can't see.
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Jun 3, 2015 12:52
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Bovril Delight posted:There isn't at a lot of insurance companies. Once they are aware, they'd set up a claim. Yeah, I was starting to think that reporting a claim is the only way of notifying them. No matter how hard I googled for "report accident to geico without making a claim", I couldn't figure it out. Also, I looked closer at the car yesterday, and one of the lights in the license plate holder is missing. I'm guessing it fell out on impact. So, I feel like I need to make some sort of decision about what to do ASAP. The following questions are very important to me: will my insurance rates go up after reporting a claim that was not my fault, and will the car's value decrease because it will have been reported as being in an accident?
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Jun 3, 2015 14:13
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I have a Fumoto valve, and it's not quite sealing at the pan-valve point, so I have a very small leak. I have a spare crush washer. Should I take that and put it between the valve's rubber gasket and the pan, or will two gaskets gently caress up the seal even more? Are you using that washer that came with the Fumoto valve? I've got a WRX using a F105 Fumoto valve, using the crush washer that came with it, and have never had a problem. Is your pan bent, maybe? LargeHadron posted:will my insurance rates go up after reporting a claim that was not my fault, and will the car's value decrease because it will have been reported as being in an accident? If the claim was determined as not your fault, your rates shouldn't go up. Car's value will definitely decrease, and it'll show up on it's record. BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 14:23
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e; sorry about double posting
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Jun 3, 2015 14:27
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BoyBlunder posted:If the claim was determined as not your fault, your rates shouldn't go up. The latter part of this makes me think that reporting it is not in my best interest then. Even if the insurance gets the dude to pay for a $10 light bulb, losing thousands (?) of dollars in resell value makes it not worth it. Does anyone want to tell me that this is a bad idea? What if I file a police report just to have something on record, without filing an insurance claim?
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Jun 3, 2015 15:08
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BoyBlunder posted:Are you using that washer that came with the Fumoto valve? It definitely could be, this car is old enough to drive. I got a plastic/rubber washer with the valve. No metal one like the original plug uses. It only starts leaking once the car heats up. In the morning, no leak. After it's been running for a while and I park, about 3 minutes later I have a quarter sized spot. I never had leaking with the plug bolt, bit I have torqued this one down to the point that the brass they make them out of started to strip, and I figured that was a good place to stop.
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Jun 3, 2015 16:28
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Molybdenum posted:Could be, the smaller inner headlight is turning on when I pull the stalk towards me, nothing happens when I push forward. I will return them. So I found the old bulbs and was planning on returning the new ones and I tested the high beams again and they worked, so no return. Two days later (today) they don't. Outside bulb is for low beam, inner bulbs are for high beam, no hi/lo combined bulb. I don't think the bulbs are the culprit, but what causes an intermittent failure to turn on the high beams?
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Jun 3, 2015 17:24
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Flash to pass works but when you try to lock them on nothing? I'm going to guess you have a bad relay.
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Jun 3, 2015 17:36
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slidebite posted:Tire repair question and actively soliciting second (and third, fourth) opinions. So, just to put some closure on this. I ended up buying a new set of tires (Subaru dealer was surprisingly the cheapest place to go) and had them installed yesterday. After we dropped the car off I received a call from the dealer saying "Hey, your car could really use an alignment"  Considering the car is babied and had, literally, 17,800 KMs of which 90% was Interstate highways, I called bullshit and went down to ask for the evidence as I was sure it was just an upsell. Guy took me into the shop and I talked to the tech who showed me the front tires, and yep, a plainly obvious issue. Inside of both tires were obviously more worn than elsewhere. They offered to line it up for $80 (car is out of warranty, even though such low KMs I am 99% sure it came out of the factory this way) which they did and now with the new tires, car feels even better than before. Ended up keeping 1 of the old tires as a full-size spare, but scrapped the other 3 (2 with the alignment issue, 1 with the plug).
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Jun 3, 2015 17:43
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slidebite posted:So, just to put some closure on this. I ended up buying a new set of tires (Subaru dealer was surprisingly the cheapest place to go) and had them installed yesterday. Lots and lots and lots of new cars have crap alignment from the factory. Part of the pre-delivery inspection on some brands is a wheel alignment (if necessary) but most of the time this is skipped in favour of leaving it until the customer complains. Most never do.
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Jun 3, 2015 19:54
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2014 Dodge Grand Caravan had the CEL come on. It's only got about 13k miles on it. Pulling the codes came up with P0520, which from Googling looks like something to do with the oil pump? My wife called the dealership and they said that the earliest they could see it is mid-June. Is this a problem that requires immediate attention, or can it wait that couple of weeks?
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Jun 4, 2015 00:52
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According to google (the first suggested search for that code is dodge btw) it's an oil pressure sensor/switch code. It could be catastrophically bad or it could just be crappy Chrysler wiring making it think the sensor is faulty/an actual faulty sensor. Either way, just keep driving until something falls off/blows up then put your yelling pants on.
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Jun 4, 2015 01:24
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Stupid electrical question - I put Euro bumpers on my MkI Focus, and one of the features added was backup lights in the bumper itself -  Not my car, just for illustrative purposes I want to put a set of the solid on/white - blink on-off/amber LEDs into the backup lights so they can function as both reverse lamps & turn signals.  I would need to wire up the turn signal to 87, reverse signal to 87a and then 30 would go out to the reverse light. Do I need to supply it with a separate uninterrupted source into 85 & 86 or should it just send whatever voltage it receives at 87 & 87a through 30? In that case what are 85 & 86 used for? e: or am I reading that completely wrong and 85 & 86 trigger the relay and voltage gets supplied at the 87s? e2: OK googling this I think I figured it out. The relay's default position is 30 is linked to 87. Supply power across 85 & 86 and then 30 links to 87a. So I should be able to connect the turn signal to 87, reverse to 87a and 85, 86 to ground (or the other way around if it matters) and 30 to the lamp. Does this sound correct? e3: turns out I need 1157 dual-circuit bulbs to make this happen and the housings I have are set up for 1156. However it seems I should be able to switch the bulb sockets to 1157, which eliminates the need for a relay further upstream since the turn signal/reverse will have separate wires all the way to the bulb socket. Geoj fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Jun 4, 2015 |
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Jun 4, 2015 04:05
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Next question: I posted in the Subaru thread about my transmission clicking. I've figured out it's actually the brakes, it just happened mostly when I was braking and shifting at the same time, which is pretty much every time I do more than lightly touch the brakes. Which is probably bad driving technique, I don't know. The click sound is just once, not a rotating, repeating thing. Only under relatively heavy braking, but the brakes don't need to heat up, it happens fairly often just coming out of the parking lot at work after 4-9 hours of the car sitting there. I'm not positive whether it does it once the brakes have warmed up or not. Any ideas? I just realized I haven't checked the brake fluid reservoir, I can check that tomorrow if it sounds like it might just be too low.
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Jun 4, 2015 04:42
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Once every time you hit the brakes, or just the first application after changing from reverse to forward gear? Either way, I can almost guarantee it's not fluid causing it, though checking the level is always a good idea. I'd pull the wheels off and check the calipers/brackets for play, if the bolts are loose at all tighten them. Also try and stick a screwdriver into the tabs of the pads where they slot into the calipers and pry in various directions to see if those might be flopping around. Of course, it could be a loose front end component unrelated to the brake system. My guess if the brakes check out would be the control arm bushings, but check everything; bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearing, I doubt it's be a sway bar while braking in a straight line but anything is possible.
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Jun 4, 2015 04:49
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I'll need to listen tomorrow just to be sure, but I think it's neither. I remember having it happen on the second stop, too. But it does happen a lot when it's the first stop after switching to forward.
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Jun 4, 2015 07:27
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Loose hub nuts do that. There are several vehicles (not subarus to my knowledge) that will make a loud *clack* every time you go from D to R and vice versa because the hub nuts need to be torqued down more. You could also have a bad driveshaft, I guess?
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Jun 4, 2015 07:56
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So, the hub nut is that big, 20-something millimeter nut on the end of the CV axle? I have to remove the wheel for that, right? If I do, is there any downside to rotating the tires more often than the standard interval?
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Jun 4, 2015 16:57
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Dumb question: I picked up an unrepairable nail in my summer tires on my Santa Fe. I replaced the front two, as they had about 35-40,000km on them. Now my vehicle is an AWD one, but not a fulltime AWD like a Subaru. I just recently learned that you shouldn't do any less than all 4 on AWDs, so I called the dealer (had a tire warranty still so I did it through them) and he told me that I was just barely at the limit of the allowable variance between the fronts and rears, and given that it's a FWD biased system in the summer, I should have a little more slack since the AWD won't be kicking in much at all. I'm trying to figure out just how much I might be screwed here, and I'm concerned that I'm going to crater my center diff. I've put about 3,000km on these before I realized that there was a potential issue. The OEM tires are Bridgestone DUELER H/T 684 which I don't think are known for long tread life either.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:10
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Geoj posted:Stupid electrical question - You got the idea. If you got 2 color bulbs, then you need sockets with 2 connectors. Well, 3 connectors since they share a ground. For the record, if you have any more circuitry questions, we do have an electronics megathread over in DIY. They've helped me before with wiring up relays for an actively powered fuel tank selector valve for my truck.
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Jun 4, 2015 17:25
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