|
Question re: brakes on my 2012 Outback. My dad thinks the master cylinder needs to be replaced. He thinks this because, at a stop, the brake pedal will slowly (quite slowly) allow you to eventually bottom out the pedal. Never had any trouble with the brakes in this car, but I guess I can feel what he's talking about? Anyhow, he thinks it's a dire situation, that I'm going to need to stomp on the brakes one day and a seal will blow out or something and I'll have no brakes at all. Basically all of his experience with cars is just random info picked up on cars from 30 or 40 years ago, so I'm just looking for some more insight on what may or may not be an actual issue. Is this something I should be racing to the repair shop over? e: obviously not racing too fast because then the brakes will give out when I get there and I'll plow into the building
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 18:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 00:19 |
|
|
It definitely warrants more investigation. Could be air in the lines, a leak somewhere, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 19:26
|
|
|
Soup in a Bag posted:The car is a 2007 Chevy Aveo5 LS with a 1.6L 4 cylinder engine... In case this just got missed last page, are these something I might be able to figure out on my own with basic tools or should we head to a shop?
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 19:30
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:So, the hub nut is that big, 20-something millimeter nut on the end of the CV axle? I have to remove the wheel for that, right? Yes, yes, no.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
If the nut is loose, and it's not a cotter pin style (almost certainly isnt), just go ahead and get new nuts. Most of them are meant to be single use, and it's cheap insurance regardless.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 20:12
|
|
|
I just bought a 2005 Ford Escape from work. After they took out the work equipment, the radio, speedometer & odometer do not work. Lights connect to each and appear to work but the radio, dials and digital output do not move. I'm thinking this is a fuse or a wiring issue but dont know much about it. Any advice? Edit: Found the solution. There was a blown fuse that was used for both the radio and the console. Tank44 fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jun 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 20:26
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:You got the idea. If you got 2 color bulbs, then you need sockets with 2 connectors. Well, 3 connectors since they share a ground. Yeah, for some reason I had it in my head that the LED module could switch between white/solid and amber/blink just based on if the incoming power is solid or on/off. And there are some units that can change color if you swap polarity - but it appears that the only modules available for my application are 1157 dual circuit. Which is fine - I can obtain new sockets with attached pigtails for less than the cost of two relays plus harnesses, although I'm probably going to have to drop my rear bumper again to run an additional pair of wires.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 20:35
|
|
|
I have a 97 Miata that's going to need new tires soon. It's on stock size right now at 185/60/14, but it looks like there aren't many good options for summer tires. The best I've seen (other than Star Specs which are too much for daily driving) are the Yokohama S-Drives, but the closest size they come in is 185/55/14. I don't know poo poo about tire sizing; will I be able to run these? Is there a catch/compromise, like worse traction/treadwear? I can't imagine that a slightly smaller sidewall would affect much but what do I know.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 21:34
|
|
|
Hikaki posted:I have a 97 Miata that's going to need new tires soon. It's on stock size right now at 185/60/14, but it looks like there aren't many good options for summer tires. The best I've seen (other than Star Specs which are too much for daily driving) are the Yokohama S-Drives, but the closest size they come in is 185/55/14. I don't know poo poo about tire sizing; will I be able to run these? Is there a catch/compromise, like worse traction/treadwear? I can't imagine that a slightly smaller sidewall would affect much but what do I know. Do you live somewhere you get a lot of rain? If yes, I'd recommend the ExtremeContact DW tire from Continental. Love it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
The slightly smaller sidewall will make your ride slightly harsher, your speedometer will read slightly high, and you'll lose that hellaflush cred. In other words, it'll be fine. Go for it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
It will change your speedo reading so it's 3% "off" for a given speed, as the smaller diameter needs more rotations to cover the same ground, but that's really not enough to be a major issue. This is a common problem dealing with older cars, as smaller wheel sizes tend to become less supported for "good" rubber.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
Hikaki posted:I don't know poo poo about tire sizing For future reference, the formula is [treadwidth in mm]/[sidewall height as percentage of treadwidth] [wheel size in inches]. So the only difference between the two is 5% shorter sidewall, or about 10mm.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 21:46
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:It will change your speedo reading so it's 3% "off" for a given speed, as the smaller diameter needs more rotations to cover the same ground, but that's really not enough to be a major issue. On the other hand, depending on how your speedometer skews, you might get closer to right. My car was always 3 miles slower than indicated on surface streets, now it's 1 slower. I also did it for availability. You try finding good, cheap 225/60/15s. With 16" wheels, I got DWSes and a set of Legacy GT snowflakes for the cost of average all-seasons on my old wheels.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2015 22:30
|
|
|
Cool, sounds like it'll work out then. I don't really care too much about the speedo issue either. Thanks.VelociBacon posted:Do you live somewhere you get a lot of rain? If yes, I'd recommend the ExtremeContact DW tire from Continental. Love it. California so the exact opposite. I actually went all-season for my current tires "just in case" but I now realize my folly. Anyway the DW only seems to come in 16+ though so no go. Safety Dance posted:you'll lose that hellaflush cred. No worries on that, this thing has more wheel gap than an SUV.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
Are there any good resouces for someone thinking about buying back a totaled car? I'm in Colorado. Also, if I disagree about how much a car is worth with the insurance company assessing the damage, how do I go about arguing it? KBB has my car listed at ~2500, but in Colorado, Subarus this age and mileage are asking $5000, because loving Subarus is a requirement of living here. I haven't heard back from the inspector yet, but going from the independent inspection and the KBB, I expect them to say it's totalled, and since it's geico, I expect them to lowball the hell out of me. E: Am I right in thinking I'm just shafted on the $2600 of repairs I have had done in the past year if I don't buy it back? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jun 5, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 18:02
|
|
|
Dont take the check and cash it. Find models similar in mileage and year and save the ads to send to them. Tell them that it will cost you x to replace your car and that you have supporting documentation. Edit: If you buy it back plan on never selling it.. once you are done its worth scrap selling a salvage title car gets you pennies on the dollar. Also you probably have to go through a bit of a different initial inspection and registration because its a salvage (depends on local law) tater_salad fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jun 5, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 20:00
|
|
|
2005 Chevy Avalanche 1500 I've got a problem where while driving, the engine will suddenly bog down and then die within a couple seconds after a random amount of time driving. I still have electrical power from the battery but lose all power steering which is a bit terrifying in a 6000lb vehicle. The only code that a reader will show is a code for the fuel evap emissions system having a leak. This code has been constant for several years due to me driving on lovely dusty lime rock roads and I am 95% sure its unrelated to the current issue. I've got no sort of vehicle theft deterrent that would cause this that I'm aware of since my vehicle doesn't have a transponder in the key fob. I just replaced all 8 plugs and wires and installed a brand new fuel pump attempting to fix the issue, but the issue has persisted. After a while of talking to a co-worker, we settled on it possibly being the mass air flow sensor or carbon buildup in the throttle body. Any goons want to weigh in with an opinion? EDIT 2: Throttle body cleaned and a new MAF senser. Still have the issue. 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jun 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 20:02
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Dont take the check and cash it. Thanks. It turned out I was being overly worried. They didn't total it. Unfortunately, since they didn't pull on the hood release hard enough to get it to open, they didn't see the twisted grill supports. So their estimate (and check made out to me) was $500 short of what an independent inspection said. Now I just have to decide whether to take that check, pay off some debt, and learn how to replace a hood, grill, and headlight housing down the line, each for significantly less than estimated parts cost, or to take it in and have the shop do everything. Probably a big make or break question related: could a ~5mph parking lot collision be causing the clicking I mentioned earlier? Single click the first time I get on the brakes after going into a forward gear from reverse. Not all of the time, but often. The impact was a Tahoe on my impreza, hitting right where my driver's side headlight and grill meet. At the time of the impact, I am not sure if I was on the brakes, I was in the process of getting into gear trying to avoid the collision. Edit: I think I found where a lot of the difference is. They want to repair the partially crumpled hood rather than replace it. Charitably, she just didn't notice it was crumpled because she wasn't looking that far back. I'm just going to get it fixed now, it's not worth getting $1100 now to pay 1100 and several weekends later. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jun 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2015 20:41
|
|
|
How bad an idea is buying a 95 Lexus SC400 with 340k miles on it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 14:33
|
|
|
I mean the 1UZ is a pretty solid motor by all accounts but that's still some serious mileage. Would it be a stock daily driver, or something you're planning on modifying?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 14:34
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:I mean the 1UZ is a pretty solid motor by all accounts but that's still some serious mileage. Would it be a stock daily driver, or something you're planning on modifying? Daily driver. Otherwise, what about a 2001 IS300 with 250k on the clock?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 14:51
|
|
|
Here's my theory on cars.... mileage aint nothing but a number as long as fluids and filters were taken care of correctly. The bigger worry is the age.. after 10+ years you are looking at a lot of upkeep, suspension components need replacement, hoses and emissions stuff starts to die, rust has started its cancerous creep.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 14:59
|
|
|
I've got a 2010 V6 Rav4 that's got a sharp rattle for around a second on a cold start. Dealer says "it's normal". Is this causing any kind of damage to the car, and what do I need to do to get it fixed if so. Also, I'd like to get new brakes for the vehicle, where would you recommend I go to get brakes/pads/calipers replaced?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 17:05
|
|
|
It could be normal. Some engines are noisier on startup than others, but I don't know about that engine. If you're looking at the brakes as a regular maintenance thing, there's no reason to replace calipers. You're replacing the pads (for disc brakes) and shoes (basically pads for drum brakes) and maybe the rotors. In most modern vehicles this can be done for about $75 with basic tools in an hour or two. A shop will probably charge $300-400. There are probably videos on youtube showing how to do it. I did the brakes on my mom's 07 or 08 4Runner and it was the easiest brake job I've ever done. Toyota seems to have their heads on straight about this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 18:06
|
|
|
If you have the tools or have access to tools I'd second doing brakes.. anyone ive helped are amazed how easy they are to do and how much money I've saved them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 18:18
|
|
|
Cool, thanks! I'll look into getting the tools myself, and talking to a friend to show me around in how to replace them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 18:20
|
|
|
You can get away with. 1. 1 jack stand 2. 1 set of metric wrenches 3. A large c clamp to push the piston back in. Highly Recomended but optional 2ton+ jack You can get away with the scissor jack that comes with the vehicle IF you are CAREFUL and treat it like IT IS TRYING TO KILL YOU. Never put anything under the car until its resting on a jack stand.. never take the tire off until it is resting on the jack stand. Generally brakes are 2 bolts the cliff notes are: Undo the 2 bolts remove caliper, push pison piston in, put new pads in place, put caliper back in place, bolt back down.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 18:32
|
|
|
fromoutofnowhere posted:Cool, thanks! I'll look into getting the tools myself, and talking to a friend to show me around in how to replace them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfdKlFzgi8Q Bunch of videos available.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 18:54
|
|
|
TKIY posted:Dumb question: Sorry to bump this but I'm hoping to get an idea if I should be rushing to put two more tires on, if I should be okay, or if my diff is already eating itself...
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 21:23
|
|
|
.
Howard Phillips fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Sep 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 21:37
|
|
|
obeyasia posted:Daily driver. Otherwise, what about a 2001 IS300 with 250k on the clock? Both of those cars will be alright mechanically (aside from literally every suspension bush being completely destroyed) but the interior electronics and fiddly bits hold up a lot better on the IS than the SC. Likewise rust age etc as has been mentioned. fromoutofnowhere posted:I've got a 2010 V6 Rav4 that's got a sharp rattle for around a second on a cold start. Dealer says "it's normal". Is this causing any kind of damage to the car, and what do I need to do to get it fixed if so. It isn't doing any damage but on that engine it's one of two things. Either one of the VVTi pulleys is shot (a weak point on that motor) from lack of servicing, or the hydraulic lifters are not so good (the other weak point of that motor). Both are extremely expensive to fix and I wouldn't worry about it unless it gets worse, a little noise on cold start isn't too big a deal. Howard Phillips posted:2006 Camry LE V4 The water pump is buggered, for some reason the pink toyota super long life coolant loves to destroy water pumps, which kind of obviates the point of having it in the first place. At 30k I wouldn't bother replacing the serpentine belt though, I've never seen one cracked and stuff at that mileage. Sounds like bullshit but have a look at the belt yourself to make sure. Take a picture of the ribs (on the 'inside' of the belt, the surface that gets driven by the crank pulley) for us if you want to be extra sure. Is it a V6 or a 4 cylinder? Replacing the pump on the 4 banger tanks about an hour and a half including bleeding the cooling system, it's very easy. The v6 is a lot more involved. The serpentine belt takes about five minutes and I'd be astonished if you had to pay more than twenty bucks for a new one at your local store. They probably left the reservoir cap off by accident because they're idiots.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 21:57
|
|
|
2006 Saab 9-2x 2.5i with 108k I just replaced the lovely single din stock stereo with a pioneer double din. I used posi-lock connectors to wire it up, and was careful to not leave any exposed wire. Here's the problems I'm running into. 1. When I turn the car on, it goes up to about 200 rpm and hovers around there barely running. 2. If I tap the accelerater to get it up 1k-2k rpm it flutters up, then fall back down and either shuts off or continues at about 200 rpm. 3. I can get it into first and it pretty much drives normally from there on out, as long as I don't drop below 1000rpm. If I do, it shuts off. I've tried cleaning the terminals with baking soda, seemed to make the problem worse - engine was running more roughly afterwards. Could be the new stereo wiring harness, but I'm wondering if it's the battery before I take apart the dash again. Kind of at a loss here, any help is appreciated. Karl Barks fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jun 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 21:58
|
|
|
Probably not related to your radio at all. Im not familiar with this engine but sounds like cold idle tubing (if there is any) may be leaky Does it run better when the engine earms up?
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Probably not related to your radio at all. This happened after the first try of turning the car on after the stereo install, so it's gotta be related in some way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 22:42
|
|
|
Karl Barks posted:2006 Saab 9-2x 2.5i with 108k It sounds like your battery is basically dead. My brother's wife has the exact same car as you do; when the alternator failed a while ago he limped it over to my place (just barely) on the battery alone. After the repair, we checked the battery and found it to be low but still acceptable. We started the car and it ran exactly as you described; barely idling, but it would be fine if you held a bit of throttle to keep it above 1000 rpm. Take your car out for a half-hour drive on the highway to put some charge back in the battery and see if it behaves any different. The bad news out of all this is that it is entirely possible you now have a drain on the battery related to your stereo install.
|
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 22:51
|
|
|
'99 F150, 4.6L, 178k miles, Auto, 2wd About 2 weeks ago it started having a hesitation or loss of power while going up grade. This has progressively gotten worse so it happens all the time, except when coasting of course. First thought was a fuel problem because that's what it feels like so I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the MAF but that didn't help. It starts easily and revs with a hesitation while in park. The problem is worse around 2k rpm and while in overdrive. The only codes are c1230/c1229, something about a speed sensor.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 01:16
|
|
|
wormil posted:'99 F150, 4.6L, 178k miles, Auto, 2wd 99% chance the rear axle speed sensor is bad.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 02:04
|
|
|
Motronic posted:99% chance the rear axle speed sensor is bad. Very helpful but would that cause the loss of power? I'm not finding much on this sensor other how to replace it so I'm not sure what it does.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 03:03
|
|
|
The shifter in my 07 civic si had a lot of slop in it. Lots of movement even in gear. I swapped in aftermarket aluminum bushings for the shifter cables (where they meet the trans shift rods) and also replaced the shifter mechanisms base bushings. It tightened things up pretty considerably! However, I still have some play, mostly forward/backward looseness. At this point, to remove this looseness, do I need to replace a shifter cable or something? Could the cable be a little stretched? I dont want to swap cables, and its so much better that I can live with it as it is now, but it would be nice to tighten up if there is some sort of small adjustment I can make to fix it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 04:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 00:19 |
|
|
wormil posted:Very helpful but would that cause the loss of power? I'm not finding much on this sensor other how to replace it so I'm not sure what it does. It communicates the speed of the tranny or output shaft to the computer that decides what to do with the solenoids and loading and such within the tranny. I had this sensor go bad on a 95 ford explorer I used to own and it also was down on power, hard shifts as well. Do you have a flashing CEL?
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2015 04:27
|
|