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hellfaucet posted:No, I don't have a problem. that room must smell amazing
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Jun 8, 2015 07:38
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Glottis posted:You will be fine. I intentionally make my IIPAs with that high of a theoretical IBU rating. That's good to know. I know there are definitely IPAs out there with crazy high theoretical numbers and I know that the the supposed actual limit is somewhere just north of 100 IBU. There's a recipe in Radical Brewing that calculates out at 400 something IBU because there is something like half a pound of hops at like 5 minutes. I'll probably let it sit in secondary for a month to mellow both the potential 9.2% ABV and possible overshoot in bitterness.
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Jun 8, 2015 15:17
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Jo3sh posted:Wait... you ended up with 4 gallons at 1.059 rather than 5 gallons at 1.047? Can I add the top off after fermentation wraps up? I know further aeration at that point is a bad thing... But my boil kettle has a ball valve on it. So would it be feasible to boil the top off water, transfer it via the valve and tube gently into the fermenter, then proceed with my cold-conditioning? I know it's not a HUGE deal, but an extra gallon means I get to share/drink that much more with friends.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:07
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Scarf posted:Can I add the top off after fermentation wraps up? I know further aeration at that point is a bad thing... But my boil kettle has a ball valve on it. So would it be feasible to boil the top off water, transfer it via the valve and tube gently into the fermenter, then proceed with my cold-conditioning? You could taste the finished beer, taste it mixed with 20% water, and decide if the dilution hurts it. Otherwise I don't think your plans sounds bad. Disclaimer: I'd just live with having 4gal and get started on the next batch sooner.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:11
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Scarf posted:Can I add the top off after fermentation wraps up? I know further aeration at that point is a bad thing... But my boil kettle has a ball valve on it. So would it be feasible to boil the top off water, transfer it via the valve and tube gently into the fermenter, then proceed with my cold-conditioning? Yeah, you could do that. Boiling and cooling the water will sanitize and degas it, so the risk is pretty small. There's even a recipe in Papazian where he does that on purpose to make a low-alcohol beer while getting a complex flavor from a high-gravity ferment. I'd probably just drink the 4 gallons, though, and adjust my process for next time.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:28
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ChickenArise posted:You could taste the finished beer, taste it mixed with 20% water, and decide if the dilution hurts it. Otherwise I don't think your plans sounds bad. Disclaimer: I'd just live with having 4gal and get started on the next batch sooner. Jo3sh posted:Yeah, you could do that. Boiling and cooling the water will sanitize and degas it, so the risk is pretty small. There's even a recipe in Papazian where he does that on purpose to make a low-alcohol beer while getting a complex flavor from a high-gravity ferment. Yeah, I'll probably just leave it alone. Also, I think I figured out why I was a gallon off... It wasn't the boil-off, I'm just an idiot and forgot to account for the dead space in my mash tun. 
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Jun 8, 2015 19:37
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So I have 10 gallons of mead in fermenters that will accompany me camping late this summer  What I just realized though is that there will only be enough refrigeration (read: ice) for a few bottles at a time to be cooled, the rest will be in enormously oppressive heat. This means backsweetening with real sugar is a disaster. It also feels impractical to pasteurize that many bottles and I'm already looking for 2 gallon plastic containers so I don't have to carry it in a ton of empty glass jugs. So...anyone ever backsweeten a mead with an artificial sweetener? Or Potassium Sorbate and regular sugar? Gotta stop a secondary fermentation so there's not an incident. e: Would these be OK to store the mead? HDPE http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-JUG-64...lon+plastic+jug Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 19:39
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Scarf posted:Also, I think I figured out why I was a gallon off... It wasn't the boil-off, I'm just an idiot and forgot to account for the dead space in my mash tun. How does dead space make you use less water? Cooler size shouldn't really play much of a role in things outside of maybe needing to start the water a degree or two higher to warm up the full volume of the mash tun. Are you using any kind of software? Pretty much all of them will tell you exactly how much water to use in your mash and sparge.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:50
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rockcity posted:How does dead space make you use less water? Cooler size shouldn't really play much of a role in things outside of maybe needing to start the water a degree or two higher to warm up the full volume of the mash tun. Are you using any kind of software? Pretty much all of them will tell you exactly how much water to use in your mash and sparge. I have a 1 gallon loss inside my cooler that won't drain unless I pick the thing up and hold it sideways. I am using beersmith, but I realized that though I put in 1-gallon of dead space in my equipment profile, I never had the box clicked that said "adjust mash volume for dead space."
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Jun 8, 2015 19:54
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Been in hiatus last few months. Brewery paperwork is extremely time consuming. Planning on doing 4 homebrews over the course of the next 7 days. Got the homebrew club's oak barrel so going to do an Imperial Russian Stout and age it in the cask on dates for a month or two. Hot weather coming up so going to restock on my brett rye saison and IPA. My years harvest of sour cherries and pondering what to do. want something fresh and and pale as the base, just a basic pale or think I should go wheat or saison?hellfaucet posted:No, I don't have a problem. Don't drink it all at once!
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Jun 8, 2015 20:04
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SLICK GOKU BABY posted:Um, it looks like you might have too much beer.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:18
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JawKnee posted:that room must smell amazing My basement smelled amazing when I got home from work tonight. 
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Jun 9, 2015 00:11
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hellfaucet posted:No, I don't have a problem. I disagree. Look at all that unused space! Now order a pallet of carboys and get cracking!
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Jun 9, 2015 01:10
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I'm wondering what types of all-grain beers I can reasonably make in a 2-week span, from brewday to serving, assuming I can artificially carbonate. It has been a long time since I looked at all this, and the only real safe answer before was hefeweizen. I'm wondering if there are some new yeasts and/or techniques to help expedite things. I also have some munich malt I somehow want to use, without also making a dunkelweizen. Are there any particularly clean tasting beers where I can pull out a malt profile in just 2 weeks? I am assuming there is something I could do with just an amber ale or some crap, but I don't know if good-old WLP001 is going to cut it in time. I fortunately do have temperature control, but both beers would have to use the same temperature. For that matter, which of the hefeweizen strains out there now is the cleanest? Does it ferment respectably quickly?
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Jun 9, 2015 01:20
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So disaster has struck! The kit I bought had everything but the brewers yeast! I'm in the middle of boiling my hops right now. I dont have time to go run to the brew store and get brewers yeast. Should I use bread machine yeast or can I get away with storing the boiled hops in the fridge overnight until tomorrow?
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Jun 9, 2015 01:48
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rockcity posted:I'll probably let it sit in secondary for a month to mellow both the potential 9.2% ABV and possible overshoot in bitterness. Ack, why?!? Leave it in primary until it's done fermenting (a couple of weeks?), put it straight into the keg, and drink it as fresh as you possibly can. In fact, if you have a carbonator cap, take some straight from the fermenter, chill it, and shake some CO2 in there. Really hoppy beers like that are freaking amazing on day 1 or 2 after leaving the fermenter.
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Jun 9, 2015 01:53
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BaseballPCHiker posted:So disaster has struck! The kit I bought had everything but the brewers yeast! I'm in the middle of boiling my hops right now. I dont have time to go run to the brew store and get brewers yeast. Should I use bread machine yeast or can I get away with storing the boiled hops in the fridge overnight until tomorrow? If everything is nice and clean you can put it in the bucket/carboy let it sit over night and pitch it tomorrow. Don't use bread yeast. e: With airlocks and all of course.
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Jun 9, 2015 02:07
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Plinkey posted:If everything is nice and clean you can put it in the bucket/carboy let it sit over night and pitch it tomorrow. Don't use bread yeast. So go ahead and put in the liquid malt extract and everything else and then just dump the yeast in tomorrow?
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Jun 9, 2015 02:11
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Glottis posted:Ack, why?!? Leave it in primary until it's done fermenting (a couple of weeks?), put it straight into the keg, and drink it as fresh as you possibly can. In fact, if you have a carbonator cap, take some straight from the fermenter, chill it, and shake some CO2 in there. Really hoppy beers like that are freaking amazing on day 1 or 2 after leaving the fermenter. That's normally my plan with IPAs though this one is a fair bit higher in ABV than any of the other ones I've done...actually it's a fair bit higher than any beer I've done and I was figuring I'd want to give it just a little more time to settle the high alcohol. The other reason I thought about a secondary was just to help clarity a touch. Because of how much hops I threw in there, it made whirpooling not that effective and it's looking like a fair bit of trub got in there. I plan to cold crash, but I figure'd moving it to secondary would help in addition to the cold crash. BaseballPCHiker posted:So go ahead and put in the liquid malt extract and everything else and then just dump the yeast in tomorrow? Wait, you just boiled hops in water with no extract in there? You might want to pick up some more hops while you're at the store... rockcity fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 9, 2015 |
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Jun 9, 2015 02:17
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rockcity posted:Wait, you just boiled hops in water with no extract in there? You might want to pick up some more hops while you're at the store... No, well, maybe... They were steaping grains or something that I was supposed to boil for 15 minutes. Now I just dumped in the hops and LME. Man I hope I didnt ruin this first batch by not having yeast on hand. I was so pumped for this.
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Jun 9, 2015 02:21
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BaseballPCHiker posted:No, well, maybe... They were steaping grains or something that I was supposed to boil for 15 minutes. Now I just dumped in the hops and LME. Man I hope I didnt ruin this first batch by not having yeast on hand. I was so pumped for this. I'm starting to get the feeling that you may want to buy another kit. There's no harm in continuing with what you're doing, but it sounds like you're doing things quite oddly. If you did in fact boil those steeping grains, you probably extracted a bunch of stuff you didn't want and that could lead to some strange flavors. You also need the sugars from the extract in your boil for the hops to be properly utilized. What instructions are you following for this recipe?
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Jun 9, 2015 02:33
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Yesterday's pitched yeast wasted no time. We blew out a 6.5 gallon carboy in less than 24 hours. 
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Jun 9, 2015 03:31
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BaseballPCHiker posted:No, well, maybe... They were steaping grains or something that I was supposed to boil for 15 minutes. Now I just dumped in the hops and LME. Man I hope I didnt ruin this first batch by not having yeast on hand. I was so pumped for this. Yeah, post what your steps and ingredients. Did you have a big tea bag of grains? If you boiled with that in the pot you'll get some weirdness but all is not lost. What kit were you making?
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Jun 9, 2015 12:05
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 This is just bubbles between solids right? Nothing to be concerned with? This is my first all grain, been in fermenter for 10 days.
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Jun 9, 2015 13:45
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Looks fine to me 
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Jun 9, 2015 14:00
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Yeah, just looks like a bunch of yeast rafts and C02 bubbles.
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Jun 9, 2015 14:02
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So I definitely take back what I said about harvesting and washing your yeast. Seems like the easiest way to make a starter, no? I think that should be the next thing I do to up my game. Harvest and wash the yeast from the batch I just pictured above, and save for a starter for my next brew. Is that a thing?
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Jun 9, 2015 14:37
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Scarf posted:In getting ready for tomorrow, I started to go ahead and clean my equipment since I have some free time this afternoon. I noticed that one of my fermenter buckets still smells like beer, and there's a stained ring around where the krausen was during fermentation. I gave it a good soak/scrub in Oxi Free and I can still faintly detect the smell. Fill that bucket with hot water and Oxyclean Free (make sure it is Oxyclean FREE because there are no added colors or scents). Let it sit until the water gets cold and then rinse. The stains may be there but it should get rid of most if not ALL of the left over smell.
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Jun 9, 2015 14:37
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As requested here are my instructions: Here are the instructions that I was following. So I did the steeping grains first brought to a boil and then put in the LME and some of the hops. Got it boiling again for a while and then added in the hops again as specified. Cooled down in some ice water and then took it from the stockpot into my carboy and sealed the carboy with the airlock. My hope is that today I can head to the brew shop get some yeast, quickly add it and then re-seal it. Otherwise I'll chalk this up as a learning experience and try again later this weekend. If anyone is in the Minneapolis area and plans on brewing this weekend and feels like teaching I'll gladly contribute a 6 pack of something to the effort. This was a lot more involved than just helping my friends sanitize things like I had done in the past.
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Jun 9, 2015 14:55
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OssiansFolly posted:Fill that bucket with hot water and Oxyclean Free (make sure it is Oxyclean FREE because there are no added colors or scents). Let it sit until the water gets cold and then rinse. The stains may be there but it should get rid of most if not ALL of the left over smell. Yeah, that's what I did the first time... Well, I filled it half way, I'll give it another shot. Also, what's everyone's preferred ratio of Oxi Free to water? I went with the 1 full scoop - to - 1 gallon ratio recommended on the back for cleaning "hard surfaces" and it was waaay too loving much and took forever to fully rinse off. Scarf fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Jun 9, 2015 |
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Jun 9, 2015 15:13
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BaseballPCHiker posted:As requested here are my instructions: As long as you followed this instructions, you're fine. The way you wrote it before was implying that you put the steeping grains in boiling water to steep them and then didn't add the extract and just boiled the hops in the steeped grain liquid. I'd a liquid yeast of some kind as they tend to get started a little quicker which would be good in your case. Something like a Wyeast 1056 or White Labs WLP001.
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Jun 9, 2015 15:21
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Well, one of the hop plants has done well, but the other three all seem to have given up on life - dunno if I didn't water them enough or what, but they haven't budged in like a month. Is it too late in the season to get more rhizomes and replant?
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Jun 9, 2015 15:26
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I'm wondering what types of all-grain beers I can reasonably make in a 2-week span, from brewday to serving, assuming I can artificially carbonate. It has been a long time since I looked at all this, and the only real safe answer before was hefeweizen. I'm wondering if there are some new yeasts and/or techniques to help expedite things. I also have some munich malt I somehow want to use, without also making a dunkelweizen. Are there any particularly clean tasting beers where I can pull out a malt profile in just 2 weeks? I am assuming there is something I could do with just an amber ale or some crap, but I don't know if good-old WLP001 is going to cut it in time. I fortunately do have temperature control, but both beers would have to use the same temperature. Here's a munich-based mild I made once and liked, but there are tons of (probably much better) mild recipes floating around Munich malt - 6.5 lb - 90% British 80L crystal - 12 oz - 10% East Kent Goldings .5 oz 60 min East Kent Goldings .5 oz 10 min mashed at 154F for 75 min boiled 60 min pitched wy1318 at 63F, let it take itself to 68F and held there OG 1.038, FG 1.014 (nottingham would probably go a bit lower)
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Jun 9, 2015 16:17
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BaseballPCHiker posted:If anyone is in the Minneapolis area and plans on brewing this weekend and feels like teaching I'll gladly contribute a 6 pack of something to the effort. This was a lot more involved than just helping my friends sanitize things like I had done in the past. I'm pretty sure there are a few LHBS' that have brewing classes in MSP. At least they did when I lived there five years ago. It should help with confusion much better than we can probably answer the questions, because they'll probably have brewing visual aides. That said, I like to rewrite instructions before I do anything in the kitchen so that I don't miss anything important. Not all recipes are written well, and more often then not, they'll bury something like 'you need a 2L yeast starter' at the end and not in the ingredient list or as step one. It's my measure twice, cut once step in the kitchen. That way, if you come across something that doesn't make sense, you can figure it out without the boil going.
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Jun 9, 2015 16:32
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mad.radhu posted:Well, one of the hop plants has done well, but the other three all seem to have given up on life - dunno if I didn't water them enough or what, but they haven't budged in like a month. Is it too late in the season to get more rhizomes and replant? Curious about this too, as mine did basically the same thing. They're not dead, but seem to have completely stopped growing. The two bines mine sprouted are less than 2 feet long each.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:19
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Myron Baloney posted:people should persist and learn to love german weiss if they don't like it at first. It gets to FG in 6 days and I bottle by 2 weeks. My brewing partener and i have turned our Bavarian Hefe in 13 days grain to glass for a public showdown with a commercial brewery. we won the unofficial/unscientific/mostly blind tasting something like 70-50 vote wise from the drinking public. It is worth noting that everyone was drinking for free so that gave all of the beers extra tastiness.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:44
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Well I'm dumb. I started my first adventure in kegging Sunday. Transferred my beer to the kegs and put in my kegerator to chill. I go out there yesterday and find out there are two different types keg locks (pin and ball). Of course I bought pin lock kegs and ball lock taps. I went ahead and ordered ball lock pegs for my kegs. Now I have to wait for them to show up tomorrow and then they probably won't even fit my kegs. What a mess I've got myself into, hopefully my beer is still ok.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:47
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mad.radhu posted:Well, one of the hop plants has done well, but the other three all seem to have given up on life - dunno if I didn't water them enough or what, but they haven't budged in like a month. Is it too late in the season to get more rhizomes and replant? Four out of six of mine seem to be growing. One is already about 4 feet with the others trailing behind a bit. I have real low expectations so if I get anything even remotely usable out of this, even for a single batch, I'll be happy.
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Jun 9, 2015 20:01
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Curious about this too, as mine did basically the same thing. They're not dead, but seem to have completely stopped growing. The two bines mine sprouted are less than 2 feet long each. rockcity posted:Four out of six of mine seem to be growing. One is already about 4 feet with the others trailing behind a bit. I have real low expectations so if I get anything even remotely usable out of this, even for a single batch, I'll be happy. The first year or two is usually slow with hops. They are getting root systems established. As long as you got some green growth this year they will come back with a vengeance next year. The second year you should get a few ounces and after that it depends on growing conditions like weather, soil nutrients and having enough room to climb.
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Jun 9, 2015 20:57
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Calling in a friend who works in refrigeration repair to come take a look at my keezer's compressor and start device, hoping it's just the latter as the former probably means around $200 and having to do all the collar work again, besides moving the old freezer out and a new freezer in 
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Jun 9, 2015 21:45
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