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MasterSlowPoke posted:Looks a lot better than my first Ork. That box isn't available anymore because they're in the process of replacing their brush line, and that had the old ones in it. Call GW and get those paints replaced though, that's inexcusable and not standard. I love their tutorials. I used all their Dark Angels ones on my DAs:   Super simple to follow, good pictures and all. Also Garfy's 2nd ed project over there is what got me to finally pull the trigger on my retro Ultras. Tale of Painters is a great resource.
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Jun 7, 2015 00:03
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Am I crazy thinking that the skin and rags on these guys looks un-finished? I still have to do the eyes and teeth and a few touch ups here and there.   Please ignore my giant mold lines.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:31
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SRM posted:I love their tutorials. I used all their Dark Angels ones on my DAs: So good. So so good. Checking out the blog now, looks super helpful.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:39
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PyroDwarf posted:Am I crazy thinking that the skin and rags on these guys looks un-finished? I still have to do the eyes and teeth and a few touch ups here and there. I agree. I think the issue might be that the model lacks contrast. You've got a lot of what appears to be washes over white, but no bold colour or contrast, so everything looks a bit bland. Maybe once their based it'll pull together, but personally, I'd run a colour / wash / highlight over the scraps of clothing to separate them from the skin.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:41
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Which extenders did you get? Some Dragon Forge ones - mostly because I was ordering in a couple of more special bases for my counts-as Lysander and TFC anyhow. Will have to greenstuff these a bit but eh, I'll live.
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Jun 7, 2015 05:36
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PyroDwarf posted:Please ignore my giant mold lines. Can't.
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Jun 7, 2015 05:44
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On mold lines, is anybody else using Flexifile pads or similar products? I just got the starter set as an impulse purchase, and it's amazing for mans. I was able to remove the scuplted insignia from this centurion leg in less than a minute. Just cut most off with a knife, and then quickly went over it with 3 different grits:  The flexiblity in the files just makes them eat away all the protuding stuff and moldlines and follow the model's curves. The discoloration is where i cut too deep.
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Jun 7, 2015 09:02
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drat, looks pretty useful. Much easier than folding up some sandpaper. DumbparameciuM posted:Can't. "Please ignore my leprosy"
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Jun 7, 2015 10:37
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I hadn't painted my miniatures in years. My friend tried to get me to play Warmachine way back, a little before Warmachine MK2 rules came out, and I had a bunch of unfinished minis from back then. Recently I have taken it upon myself to do something with them. So I glued/painted some dudes! And now I have to show them off somewhere, so I'm showing them to this thread. Way back five years ago or whatever when I started, all I painted were five Flameguard Cleansers. The bright red dude on the far right is one of them. I painted five of them, and then completely stopped for years and years. Since then I decided I didn't really like using white primer, so I bought black primer this time and new paint and stuff. I still like having a bit more red in my color scheme than the default Protectorate of Menoth scheme, but maybe not as bright as that guy on the far right. The three darker red ones in the middle are the ones I've just recently painted. There are also five more Exemplar Errants painted like the guy on the left there, in a box in the background. I'm... not great at this. But these dudes look SO much better than unpainted unglued dudes, it's great. For some reason Feora's face, as seen in the middle, wound up a bit more grainy than it should've, I feel like the black primer I used was like old and powdery or something?? It didn't seem right, I failed at primer. But still, way WAY better than she used to be, bare metal and whatever. Overall, I feel like these newly-painted dudes look better than the dudes I painted several years ago. Though the white paint I'm using is pretty bad, it's some cheap craft acrylic paint rather than any specific miniature paint, so it was somewhat troublesome to work with. Of course, a few years ago my friend sold his Warmachine troops because we never really played together 
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Jun 7, 2015 23:56
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You can actually use the edge of a razor blade on plastic just like sandpaper and you have more control over where the modifications go. Use the cutting edge to take off most of it, as you say, then use the blade at approximately perpendicular to scrape from there. Press hard at first, then more gently, until there's a smooth, even blah blah blah.
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Jun 8, 2015 15:53
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Does anyone have both the original Rhino kit and the FW Deimos Pattern Rhino kit? I've got 4-5 of the original Rhinos and I'm wondering what kind of a size difference there is and if any of the FW bits will properly fit with the old one. Same with the Land Raider, if anyone happens to have compared them as well. I'm thinking of doing a small 30K force and if I can bling the old stuff out a bit, I can save  .EDIT: Oh, and if anyone has a modern Rhino turret sprue, I'm in need. For some reason, I have a Rhino kit with no turrets/guns/driver. 
berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 19:13
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The forge world ones are based on the current rhino kit, so the old rhinos will be too small.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:17
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serious gaylord posted:The forge world ones are based on the current rhino kit, so the old rhinos will be too small. Yeah, that's what I though. Oh well, I'll just have to paint everything on.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:45
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Just finished this guy   Here he is with some of his friends  I'm not a huge fan of how the cannon turned out. Maybe its just a bit too green.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:56
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Very cool, love your take on Behemoth.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:02
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That's a lovely blue
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Jun 8, 2015 22:07
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Arson Fire posted:I'm not a huge fan of how the cannon turned out. Maybe its just a bit too green. Repaint the rest of it if you have to, but leave the cannon alone.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:32
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The green is dope
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Jun 9, 2015 07:09
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I'm trying to make a "force lightning" effect arcing off of my Librarians staff, any ideas? My first thought was some 1mm styrene rod and water effects gel to make it crackly.
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Jun 9, 2015 10:54
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ijyt posted:I'm trying to make a "force lightning" effect arcing off of my Librarians staff, any ideas? Paper clip wire would be
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Jun 9, 2015 11:47
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Crossposting my Great Unclean One conversion using an End Times Maggoth model (minus the rider):
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Jun 9, 2015 16:01
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Hey guys, I've finally been able to start looking for an airbrush compressor. I've had the sotar 2020 for a year now but never had the space to use it. I think people here said that the TC-20 model is a good one. If so, what's the difference between this and this one? They both look the same and are both from TCP so I might as well pay $10 extra to get the general purpose air brushes too. I'm looking around and it seems that's the lowest price but if there's a place that sells it cheaper, plz link me. Or if there's a better model I should get for the 2020. Thanks.
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Jun 9, 2015 16:34
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Chill la Chill posted:Hey guys, I've finally been able to start looking for an airbrush compressor. I've had the sotar 2020 for a year now but never had the space to use it. You're better off getting a compressor with a tank in it. This one is good for the price, and isn't much more expensive than the TC-20 (and the new/used section below makes it cheaper). I can speak from personal experience that the addition of a tank has made airbrushing a much easier experience for me; I can paint for longer without worrying about the compressor getting too hot, and gives you a constant supply of cool air to work with. It also runs a lot less, meaning less wear on the mechanical components, and less noise too. It takes up about the same amount of room as the TC-20, so if you have a space for that, you have a space for this. I'd advise getting an airbrush holder too, while you're at it, if only for convenience.
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Jun 9, 2015 17:31
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Got my Razorback painted It's my first airbrushed model, so there's a lot of small errors, but I like it overall  Really learned a lot.  The model itself is also something I dug out of the attic. I built it back when I started playing around with putty a few years ago, and I realize the smoothing on the armour around the exhaust is terrible.
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Jun 9, 2015 17:58
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1) Does anyone have any advice for getting separated VMA paints (Gold and Bright Brass, if it matters) to mix back up? When I say separated, I mean the pigment appears to have congealed into a glob in the bottle, like what you'd expect from a mostly dried out paint except there's still plenty of liquid medium in the bottle. When I poke a rod in there, it feels like chewing gum. Adding an agitator bead and shaking the poo poo out of them doesn't seem to have helped. 2) In general, have people's experiences with VMA golds been complete poo poo, or did I just get two bad bottles? Even before this separation occurred, they were really thin and poorly covering, even by the standards of golds. VMA silvers are an absolute dream so this is some real Jekyll and Hyde poo poo.
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Jun 9, 2015 18:21
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Slimnoid posted:You're better off getting a compressor with a tank in it. FYI, I purchased this one, which is the same compressor Slimnoid recommended, but for $20 gets you an airbrush with "0.2, 0.3 and 0.5mm Needles & Nozzles that allow you to set-up the Airbrush for Detailed Hairline Spray, Overall Spray or for 2" Wide Spray Patterns."
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Jun 9, 2015 19:04
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JerryLee posted:1) Does anyone have any advice for getting separated VMA paints (Gold and Bright Brass, if it matters) to mix back up? When I say separated, I mean the pigment appears to have congealed into a glob in the bottle, like what you'd expect from a mostly dried out paint except there's still plenty of liquid medium in the bottle. When I poke a rod in there, it feels like chewing gum. Adding an agitator bead and shaking the poo poo out of them doesn't seem to have helped. It looks ghetto as gently caress, but it works. Or make one that uses a drill like Lumbering Troll did. (I can't find the post).
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Jun 9, 2015 19:08
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PierreTheMime posted:Crossposting my Great Unclean One conversion using an End Times Maggoth model (minus the rider): This looks rad and its a great conversion. If I did a great unclean one, I would totes steal your idea here
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Jun 9, 2015 19:12
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I had a bottle of bright brass congeal into a solid lump a while back as well. It reeked too, like a bizarre sour-metallic smell.  All my paints are a few years old so it may simply have died of old age but, given that my other VMA metallics are just fine, I wouldn't be surprised if there's a bad batch of brass floating around.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:20
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Indolent Bastard posted:It looks ghetto as gently caress, but it works. Thanks. I may still just throw out the lovely paints rather than putting this much effort into it, but I appreciate the suggestion. OneTrueBru posted:I had a bottle of bright brass congeal into a solid lump a while back as well. It reeked too, like a bizarre sour-metallic smell. I have a bottle of Gold with the same issue as the bright brass, though. I bought them several weeks apart, after the store had gotten in a new shipment of VMA (I clearly remember this because the brass was the only color they still had when I went in the first time) but I guess they could still have been from the same run. It's really weird. Pigments settling out and needing a sustained shake to get going is one thing. Paint drying out when the bottle has a poor seal is one thing. Pigment turning to a gluey mess under a thin soup of acrylic medium in a properly sealed container... yeah, that's bullshit. I may give the non-silvers one more try someday (though I'll certainly scrutinize the bottle carefully in the store) but for now, life is too short to deal with this poo poo.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:34
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I've added a strong wash and some more layers to the Chevy and it definitely looks more sun weathered now. The wash is very strong as my theory is that the very last step is dust effects in the crevasses so I don't want this to destroy and shading there. I think its a good foundation coat to work from. It's super glosses obviously, this is the first ever model I've attempted from a desert theatre so any advice is helpful. Next steps I was going to do was a very light dry brush over the whole thing and then some very light chipping around only the high wear areas. Then to start on all the details and stowage.     And just to remind you how it started: 
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Jun 9, 2015 19:36
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This might be a dumb question, but how'd it get from pink and blue to desert and olive drab?
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Jun 9, 2015 20:50
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He's using light coats of tan to simulate sun exposure knocking the pigment in the paint down.
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Jun 9, 2015 20:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:It looks ghetto as gently caress, but it works. How does this compare to the badger mini paint mixer though
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Jun 9, 2015 22:41
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If I really need to stir the poo poo out of a pot I chuck a piece of bent coat hangar into the dremel. At 16000 RPMs the paint knows it done got stirred.
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Jun 10, 2015 01:48
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So I have the itch to finish a handful of Tyranids I have lying about, and I want to magnetize them. I'm looking at about 10 warriors, 4 carnifex, and an older 3rd e metal tyrant. That's a lot of arms, and the local games and crafts shops would not be easy on the wallet with their magnet prices (up to 20e for 20 magnets.) So I'm wondering if there's some good online store that provides good magnets for miniatures in bulk, and ships to EU with no issues?
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Jun 10, 2015 04:43
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PierreTheMime posted:Crossposting my Great Unclean One conversion using an End Times Maggoth model (minus the rider): Don't forget to post the pics of it touched up when you get a sec.
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Jun 10, 2015 04:44
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yes, yes, 100 times yes. Listen to Slimnoid and get one with a tank. Thanks for the advice you guys. For some reason I had forgotten the part about getting a tank. It'll be much better to use in an apartment anyway.
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Jun 10, 2015 05:50
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I'm thinking about starting either a Tallarn or Steel Legion army. I've tried to do desert style fatigues in the past and been generally unhappy with the result, I'm wanting to create a look very similar to the below. Anyone have any tips or paint combinations to get it looking something similar to this? I use GW paints, if that helps. 
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Jun 10, 2015 05:52
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Attestant posted:I'm wondering if there's some good online store that provides good magnets for miniatures in bulk, and ships to EU with no issues? Check ebay, I usually order from a UK supplier called magnetsmagnetsmagnets but recently tried a seller in Hong Kong with good success.
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Jun 10, 2015 09:33
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