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Sadi posted:I was feeling the gearing out there. One guys (who won nationals one year in his stock bug eye) mentioned he spun a rod bearing after a red line bouncing most of the track at an event. Yes, that ends up being why the RS's are faster than most 2.0L wrx's. The power is all there and the gearing is more consistent for rallyx.
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Jun 10, 2015 19:58
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I have won rallycross events against studded STIs because they would put too much power down on the ice and have to coward lift. Really, rallycross happens best if you jump into your idling car and then scream at the top of your lungs in a rage at the gauge cluster for the entire run.
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Jun 10, 2015 20:07
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Or if you just want to try an easier solution, you could try to find someone to trade trans with and get an RS 4.11 into the WRX. Should solve a lot of those woes.
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Jun 10, 2015 20:09
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The gearing is great for autocross though. Second gear is so tall it's good for 25-60mph.
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Jun 10, 2015 20:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I have won rallycross events against studded STIs because they would put too much power down on the ice and have to coward lift. 100% this. Did ice rallycross against some 8v Sciroccos and my 16v had a way harder time laying down power. If I tried going full throttle the tires would just spin like crazy. Ice rallycross is all about screaming obscenities at your car as you understeer off into oblivion because you forgot to brake early enough.
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Jun 10, 2015 21:02
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Today when pulling.into work, I could hear a low pitch squeak when I turned. Kinda like someone dragging a heavy table. It came from somewhere in the back, happened when I turned left into the street work is on then again at a slower speed turning right into the car park. My back shocks have been noisy for a year but that was more of a knock. I've had the transfer case bearings replaced too but that would have been in early February. What could cause it? What tests do I do on my way home tonight?
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Jun 11, 2015 00:08
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I've been looking at trading in my 2011 370z which is my dd for a 2016 STI because I'd like something with a bit more space but has still got some go and is fun. After reading this thread I'm a little more weary about the possible purchase though. Are there any big items I need to look out for in the future or quirks I should do some more research on? I'm not really well versed on Subaru's. It does seem like most of the dealers near me want stickerish (35.5ish-36.4k) with no negotiating and have one STI coming in, in the near future. I'm 30 minutes north of Philly if anyone has any dealer recommendations. I'm kind of on the fence about the WRX possibly being enough if I got the right options in it but I just don't which way to go as I've never driven either car any point.
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Jun 12, 2015 01:53
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Threash posted:I've been looking at trading in my 2011 370z which is my dd for a 2016 STI because I'd like something with a bit more space but has still got some go and is fun. After reading this thread I'm a little more weary about the possible purchase though. Are there any big items I need to look out for in the future or quirks I should do some more research on? I'm not really well versed on Subaru's. E257s are the devil.
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Jun 12, 2015 02:28
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Threash posted:I've been looking at trading in my 2011 370z which is my dd for a 2016 STI because I'd like something with a bit more space but has still got some go and is fun. After reading this thread I'm a little more weary about the possible purchase though. Are there any big items I need to look out for in the future or quirks I should do some more research on? I'm not really well versed on Subaru's. You probably don't need the STi.
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Jun 12, 2015 13:43
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Somewhat vague question, but what the hell, can't hurt to ask. My Forester ('04 XT) decided to spring an oil leak right above the exhaust somewhere but I can't see where it is coming from. It's a pretty slow leak and smoke will pour from the engine bay when I start it up until it burns off. Below pic is where I'm finding a bit of oil residue. It's on the passenger side of the engine. I'm a bit reluctant to take off that shielding to look due to the rust on those bolts likely either not being reusable or not coming out in one piece. The arrows are where I'll typically see some oil  Is there anything there that commonly leaks? Like I said, real vague. DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jun 12, 2015 |
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Jun 12, 2015 15:32
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Just dropping in to say jamal is a stand up dude. When a part that was supposed to fit my wagon didn't, he got the replacement shipped out right away at no cost to me.
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Jun 12, 2015 15:34
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DAT RAM posted:Somewhat vague question, but what the hell, can't hurt to ask. valve cover gaskets?
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Jun 12, 2015 15:45
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Slow is Fast posted:valve cover gaskets? Or the turbo oil line. I have had tons of leaks there on my 04 wrx. Everything sort of puddles right there.
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Jun 12, 2015 15:52
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Slow is Fast posted:valve cover gaskets? daslog posted:Or the turbo oil line. I have had tons of leaks there on my 04 wrx. Everything sort of puddles right there. Ya just move towards the top of the engine and look at where the "wet road grime" stops. But its likely one of these two.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:00
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Thanks, I'll check both of those! Just to add to my woes, just went outside and a tire decided to give up the ghost and the sidewall blew out.
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Jun 12, 2015 19:35
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gently caress you headgaskets. Its getting fixed for free, but goddamn it. I really need to buy a mustang or something.
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Jun 13, 2015 00:10
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If i take the radiator cap off and start the car and a tonne of coolant comes out, thats a headgasket isnt it? Car doesnt overheat though, if anything it runs a little cold.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:47
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:If i take the radiator cap off and start the car and a tonne of coolant comes out, thats a headgasket isnt it? Car doesnt overheat though, if anything it runs a little cold. Are you taking the pressure cap off of the upper coolant reservoir, or the radiator? The upper res is above it, so if you open the rad cap, coolant will come out.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:52
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si posted:Are you taking the pressure cap off of the upper coolant reservoir, or the radiator? The upper res is above it, so if you open the rad cap, coolant will come out. The one on the radiator. I should be opening the one next to the airbox?
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Jun 13, 2015 03:55
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The one on the radiator. I should be opening the one next to the airbox? Not sure if you should be opening the upper coolant reservoir or not, but I can confirm that opening the rad on a healthy car will make it pour coolant all over everything.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:58
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I put the lid back on the rad and opened the upper one that i didn't know existed, started the car and there are bubbles, not sure if its air i just let into the system opening the rad though. Welp. I'm not noticing symptoms of a headgasket, I just did it out of curiosity.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:02
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The one on the radiator. I should be opening the one next to the airbox? Yeah, I think the OEM radiators didn't even have a cap on the radiator itself, just the upper reservoir. It's done for that whole convection cooling even with the motor stopped thing. Obviously if you have fluid filled up to there, and you open a cap lower in the system, you're gonna dump fluid. You pretty much only open the one on the radiator when you are draining & filling the coolant. It can help burp it as you fill it.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:15
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I ran it for a bit with the top cap open and went and had a coffee. Its at temp and there are still bubbles, and i saw a couple of wisps of white smoke which may have been steam i don't know. My radiator has the plastic tanks, is it possible for this to happen because of a leak in those or is one of my gaskets dead? Its never overheated. I'm uploading a video.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:41
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Uhh, could be coolant boiling - the system isn't pressurized with the cap open, so it can boil. If you had a leak in a tank/etc, you'd be leaking coolant out. White steam from the coolant I'd not be worried about, or bubbles. If you see coolant in your oil I'd be concerned. If you can test it with an exhaust gas tester, you could identify head gaskets. Not from bubbles/etc though.
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Jun 13, 2015 04:45
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hll0IVDHw9c Can't see it too well in the video, sort of, but not really. There was definitely air in it from me opening the rad cap though because there were a fucktonne of bubbles where now theres not much, just little ones. When I find my jackstands, I was going to change the oil anyway before this, lets hope its black and not white. E: If it was coolant:cylinder, letting exhaust into the cooling, it wouldn't be able to get in the oil would it? I mean I guess if it got down the sides but isn't that what the rings are for/it would be missing badly/not that much to be noticeable anyway? also the whine you can hear is probably my power steering, I know it leaks, I haven't got around to changing the o ring. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Jun 13, 2015 |
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Jun 13, 2015 05:02
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You shouldn't get oil into the coolant that way, no - just exhaust gas. That's why the normal method to test is to use an exhaust gas probe in your expansion tank and check for the presence there. To the oil - just open your oil cap. If you're getting a significant amount of coolant in, it'll have that wonderful milkshake all over the filler/cap frequently. But yeah, also just look at your oil when you replace it. Or you could go ahead and do something like a Blackstone analysis. That'll tell you a lot more accurately than just from appearance.
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Jun 13, 2015 17:35
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So, what issues do the old Subaru Outbacks have, the automatic ones with the H6 3.0 in them? Specifically, this one http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5026168535.html That one looks like it'd be a terrific bike wagon to cart my rear end to work and to bike rides and the occasional Austin trip. How's the AC on these as well, it's an important thing to have working well in Houston.
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Jun 13, 2015 21:42
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The issues are minimal on those things. You want to keep up on oil changes, because they spray small amounts of oil on the timing chain to keep it lubricated. There are no head gasket problems like the 2.5s, though. I remember one semi-common problem, but I can't remember what it was, somebody else might be able to fill in for me. I remember it being outside of the engine though, so it doesn't require tear-down like the head gaskets on the 2.5. I was planning on getting one, and might still at some point, when I'm looking for a new car. I haven't ridden in one, so the AC might be completely different, but my AC is great in my '99 Outback Sport. We don't get 110 days like Houston does, but it can make me uncomfortably cool when it's 90 out. And that's after going on 6 years of owning it with no recharge, and I have no idea how long it was since the PO recharged it. Just make sure to have it on recirculate, obviously.
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Jun 13, 2015 22:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The issues are minimal on those things. You want to keep up on oil changes, because they spray small amounts of oil on the timing chain to keep it lubricated. There are no head gasket problems like the 2.5s, though. I remember one semi-common problem, but I can't remember what it was, somebody else might be able to fill in for me. I remember it being outside of the engine though, so it doesn't require tear-down like the head gaskets on the 2.5. I was planning on getting one, and might still at some point, when I'm looking for a new car. I haven't ridden in one, so the AC might be completely different, but my AC is great in my '99 Outback Sport. We don't get 110 days like Houston does, but it can make me uncomfortably cool when it's 90 out. And that's after going on 6 years of owning it with no recharge, and I have no idea how long it was since the PO recharged it. Just make sure to have it on recirculate, obviously. Man, that's awesome news. I was looking around on nasioc and other places and I guess nobody talks about the H6 because nothing goes wrong with it. I have a set of manifold gages so if the AC needs attention, I can take care of it. I'd be selling a miata and buying this and using the overage to pay off debt. I hope the transmissions aren't made of paper...
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Jun 13, 2015 23:43
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So while he was selling my wife and me a '15 outback 2.5 with all of the goodies (got upsold like a motherfucker on that one...) the salesman swore up and down that for 2017 the STI would get a 2.5 liter based off of the 2.0 in the standard WRX. I dismissed it as blown smoke but wondered if anyone else had heard the same?
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Jun 14, 2015 01:25
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They used the same transmission on the SVX 10 years prior, and the only problem with it then was they didn't have a good enough cooling system. They fixed it in later SVX years. I don't know about H6 outbacks, but they already had one designed for a higher power engine (230 vs <210), so unless they were really stupid, it should be fine. e: Again, please don't take my word on it, get a second opinion. I never owned one, just looked into buying one. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 01:28
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The transmissions are fine if you don't abuse it IE constant clutch drop launches etc. The only people who complain about the boxes in these are people who treat every road like the Nordschleife or mod the engine for big power gains and expect the stuff designed to hold stock power to flawlessly work with their mods.
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Jun 14, 2015 06:17
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Any of the Aus goons interested in buying gdb stockies? Got 4, dunno what the rules are for selling on SA but if anyones interested I'll find out and post it here but you can find my ad on Gumtree pretty easily.
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Jun 14, 2015 07:07
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The issues are minimal on those things. You want to keep up on oil changes, because they spray small amounts of oil on the timing chain to keep it lubricated. There are no head gasket problems like the 2.5s, though. I remember one semi-common problem, but I can't remember what it was, somebody else might be able to fill in for me. I remember it being outside of the engine though, so it doesn't require tear-down like the head gaskets on the 2.5. I was planning on getting one, and might still at some point, when I'm looking for a new car. I haven't ridden in one, so the AC might be completely different, but my AC is great in my '99 Outback Sport. We don't get 110 days like Houston does, but it can make me uncomfortably cool when it's 90 out. And that's after going on 6 years of owning it with no recharge, and I have no idea how long it was since the PO recharged it. Just make sure to have it on recirculate, obviously. My mom has one of those and the engine in it has been pretty drat rock solid. It has been somewhat plagued with weird electrical bullshit though...locks not working, lights staying on, etc. It has gone through some rear suspension bits and also gone through brakes quickly. It hasn't been anything heartbraking, but not a perfect car. As far as I can remember, timing chains and timing chain guides can be compromised if the oil is not kept fresh and topped off, so keep up with that. Also, gas mileage is going to kind of suck with it. It's a big engine in a big wagon with an automatic. It's a great feeling engine though. Torquey and just silky electric smooth. It makes the 2.5 feel like a tractor. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 13:12
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The only semi-frequent problems with the ez30d I can remember are that the valve gaskets can leak, the power steering pump can go, and there's an exhaust bypass valve in the muffler that's supposed to open up around 3-4000rpm that rusts and seizes up
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Jun 14, 2015 15:06
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I changed the brakes on my '06 Impreza this weekend, and it was a total bitch and a half. Somewhere along the line, probably while backing the rotor off, the ABS tone ring on my rear driver's-side spindle cracked and bent in one spot, which means my ABS light is on and the ABS doesn't work. I'm living in California now, sooooooo I'm not too worried about the weather, but the car is from New England. ABS ring replacement, to do it correctly at least, requires pulling the old wheel hub and swapping in a fresh ring/wheel bearing. The last time I tried to do a wheel bearing on this car, it did *not* come out easily, and I had to press it out... which involved undoing the lateral link bolt. I really, really hope I do not have to remove the lateral link bolt again. 
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Jun 15, 2015 01:30
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Just suck it up and replace the entire upright, take the bolt head on instead of trying to avoid it and ending up needing to do it. PB the poo poo outta it and get a 6' bar and drop the car on it if you have no impact.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:47
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Lat links pretty much have to come out. I would at least have a spare long bolt and hardware ahead of time.
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Jun 15, 2015 04:21
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I think I torched mine out last time, because it was so damned fused in there. Fffffff...
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Jun 15, 2015 07:10
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For the big rear end bolt, don't even attempt the job without a new big rear end bolt and lateral link bushings. Assume they will be destroyed.
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Jun 15, 2015 13:53
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