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I'm hitting a google-fu wall, and its bugging me. I saw a mod someone had online where the put battery boxes on the slide rails of the SCX10 - lowers the center of gravity, and you have a main and spare battery ready to roll. I cannot for the life of me find battery boxes though, or if there's a kit for doing that or anything. I want to move the batteries there, so I can more easily chassis-mount the servo, and free up some suspension room. I could also then move my ESC up front, clean up some cable mess, and generally make my truck happier (for me). Anyone have any ideas/keywords/googlefu help? Also, that Vaterra is amazing. Love it 
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May 11, 2015 16:20
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Look up a Howler Customs Battery Tray. My friend Howard has been making them for awhile and they are great. It moves the battery back sideways and puts side plates on there for electronics. They are a nice piece. You could also possibly just use the side plates for batteries if you wanted to do that. Zip ties would also be an option. However, I don't think you'd want to mount batteries outwards over the rock sliders though. The weight would screw up your side hilling/crawling. It's much better to have it in the center of the chassis.
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May 11, 2015 16:30
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Look up a Howler Customs Battery Tray. My friend Howard has been making them for awhile and they are great. It moves the battery back sideways and puts side plates on there for electronics. They are a nice piece. You could also possibly just use the side plates for batteries if you wanted to do that. Zip ties would also be an option. However, I don't think you'd want to mount batteries outwards over the rock sliders though. The weight would screw up your side hilling/crawling. It's much better to have it in the center of the chassis. That is phenomenal, and may be exactly what I'm looking for. I liked the idea of slapping the batteries in a box on the sliders to lower overall CoG, but the side hilling had popped into my head. this could work well though, as if frees up a lot of space. Now to figure out how to slap a driver inside (the wife insists I need a driver seated in my truck for realism's sake).
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May 11, 2015 17:09
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Thanks. Kudos to Vaterra on doing the lexan body using a plastic grill. It really makes it look much better than a standard decal. And those window trims are included stickers. Awesome. BTW, do you know what size tires/wheels you have there? A buddy of mine has an Ascender, and the body looked like it was oversized compared to the chassis, and it sounded like Tupperware when it was scraping against rocks. Yours looks a little more properly proportioned.
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May 11, 2015 17:26
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I'm using Gear Head Champ 1.9 wheels with RC4WD Compass tires. They definitely fill up the wheel wells which I dont think the stock tires do a great job of. Of course, mine are so big that once I get to crawling I'm going to have to start doing some fender chopping. Hopefully relatively light chopping as I dont want to screw up the "lifted OEM" look.
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May 11, 2015 17:34
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So a few posts back, I was all excited about my first real hobby-grade car being an ECX 4wd Circut. It's a fine car, but it met with a small "accident" this weekend involving a concrete wall and me driving like an rear end in a top hat. Smashed the front right A arm to pieces and took the shock along for the ride. Problem with ECX is that replacement parts aren't as easy to find as I would hope or if there are generic ones, kind of difficult to tell if it will work. Maybe I'm just not good an online searches. Anyway, I'm sending it back to the manufacturer for repair. The moral of the story is that if you're getting a first car, get something that is well stocked by your local hobby store parts-wise. There is a silver lining to this whole story though. My wife was sick of watching me mope around the house being car-less and ordered me a new Traxxas Stampede 4x4 VXL as an early Father's Day gift. In reality, it's as much a gift for my daughter because she absolutely loves to chase my car around the yard. I have a feeling that even when I get my ECX back, it isn't going to get much use. Those Stampede's look like a ton of fun to drive. Aside from the Lipo battery (which I've already ordered), what would you suggest I look to upgrade first? Or should I just wait until things break? Also, how critical is engine and ESC cooling? I see all kinds of fans and heatsink options out there and since we're coming into summer I'm worried about overheating. May just be the computer guy in me though. I ordered a Venom 25C 2S 5000mAh 7.4 Hard Case lipo if that will help determine how necessary cooling would be.
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May 12, 2015 13:04
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Give Pat a Job posted:So a few posts back, I was all excited about my first real hobby-grade car being an ECX 4wd Circut. It's a fine car, but it met with a small "accident" this weekend involving a concrete wall and me driving like an rear end in a top hat. Smashed the front right A arm to pieces and took the shock along for the ride. Problem with ECX is that replacement parts aren't as easy to find as I would hope or if there are generic ones, kind of difficult to tell if it will work. Maybe I'm just not good an online searches. Congrats on the new toy Awesome wife there hahah. The Traxxas is on my list of "want to buy's" for sure. As to the heat question, I think unless you are pushing the hell out of it with 3S batteries in extreme outdoor heat, you are likely okay. The biggest killer for heat with RC's (at least what I can tell from a ton of reading) is mud - if its hot out, and you are pushing through/playing in some thick mud, it can hurt. Engine/ESC work harder, less airflow from speed to cool everything. But, once again, likely only an issue if you are running 3S batteries - someone with more experience can either back me up, or call me an idiot
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May 12, 2015 14:10
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The traxxas VXL runs a tad on the warm side in general but on 2S you should be ok as long as the gearing is conservative. When the battery cell count goes up is when you have to be careful. The problem you have had with the ECX is that brands biggest downside right now. Despite being a Horizon brand, most hobby shops just don't have the inventory built up yet. You will enjoy that stampede. Good gosh the stampede is 21 years old now. I remember getting one right on release when I was 11 and it felt cutting edge compared to my Hawk 2. I'm getting old.
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May 12, 2015 14:44
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I've given up trying to find ECX spares in the UK, they just don't exist. Shipping over from the US works but it's not ideal and far from quick. Still waiting to replace it, in the mean time going out into the woods with my boys, their monster trucks and the dog will suffice. We have yet to find when the Wheely King will finally cut off on a 5000mah 2s lipo.
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May 12, 2015 15:10
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Look up a Howler Customs Battery Tray. My friend Howard has been making them for awhile and they are great. It moves the battery back sideways and puts side plates on there for electronics. They are a nice piece. You could also possibly just use the side plates for batteries if you wanted to do that. Zip ties would also be an option. However, I don't think you'd want to mount batteries outwards over the rock sliders though. The weight would screw up your side hilling/crawling. It's much better to have it in the center of the chassis. Seconding the Howler Customs Battery Tray. The screw holes are a little bit off and didn't quite match up with the holes for the side plates on my SCX10, so be prepared to enlarge them. Aside from that minor detail, they're great and have allowed me to relocate my ESC on one side of the motor, and my receiver/LED controller to the other side of the motor. Does anyone have recommendations of boxes for holding electronics? Right now they're kind of zip-tied haphazardly and I'd like a more permanent solution. I was looking at something like this.
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May 14, 2015 17:45
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After reading this thread I finally put my TLR 22 together. In the span of 3 weeks I got my first taste of racing and then got a Slash. Next week I will be running it in a sport modified oval class.  Does any one else here run an oval series?
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May 15, 2015 18:39
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rowebot44 posted:After reading this thread I finally put my TLR 22 together. Yes I do. I love it. I run an Outlaw modified based on a Pro-Line Pro 2 and it's very competitive. I have shots of the car (as well as other mods) here - http://www.bigsquidrc.com/pro-line-pro-2-dirt-oval-modified-part-2/ The weather this spring has been freaking awful though and despite the local track opening mid April, there has yet to be an opening race. It looks like this weekend will be a wash as well. So much rain.
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May 15, 2015 19:50
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I'm going to be up all night and busy all weekend putting together my Yeti XL. I went with the Mamba Monster2 ESC and got the 2200kv axial motor so I wouldn't have the ugly green clashing with the other hard ano'd bits and things can color match. Got some new batteries. Just going to do 4S first, but will get a 6S set soon enough. Haven't decided on a servo yet. I want to get one of the Hitec brushless units but the 7954SH is just so good for the cost. I'm using the new 6.5mm bullet connectors from castle for my batteries too. Deans will probably be fine on 4S but I'd rather not have the arcing that goes along with 6S stuff.
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May 15, 2015 21:20
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I've got my XL all ready to go except the motor and ESC. China is far away and I got that Neu-Castle/Quicrun deal. Got my y adapter soldered up for the BEC and the series connector for the batteries. Once the drat motor/esc show up it'll take a whopping 10 minutes to have the motor and battery connector soldered on and running. It's a long wait.
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May 16, 2015 06:10
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I thought it would be a good idea to try out some 6.5mm bullet battery connectors from castle on my Yeti XL kit. Boy what a total pain in the dick, not to mention just installing them on to the ESC and making a series connector has used up my entire tube of kester solder. I don't even have enough to solder the batteries and a charge lead. I'm sure they will be nice once done but good grief it's a lot of solder and seating the bullet plug in the ESC side connector sucks balls.
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May 22, 2015 16:56
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Man, this hobby. So I've got likely 10 packs burnt through on the Honcho, and I love it. Going to throw a bit of $$$ at it for a few upgrades to fix some "quirks", and I think I'll likely leave it at that. Its loving insanely capable already, even with me being an idiotic newbie But, with that being said, I want to build a basher. There are some insanely good trails around here for something that wants to go fast and take big jumps. And I really want to start with a kit for this one. So now its choosing a chassis time. What I'm currently debating: Axial Wraith Axial Yeti 1/10 (not the XL, I figure I can overbuild a 1/10, unless people here think the XL is really worth the extra $$$) Vaterra Twin Hammers Kit Losi 10 SCTE - go for the short course style ride Armma Dex408v2 - the only buggy I like the looks of. Bonus is 1/8th scale. (I know the last two are more roller than kit, but, hey) Its pre-planning, and I don't have a 100% set budget - this will likely be a few-months-long build. Anything else I should look at? Anything I should just rule out?
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May 24, 2015 01:35
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Out with my youngest yesterday while his brother was out at camp, which at least meant I could borrow his digger.  He is starting to get a little frustrated at the speed (or lack of it) on the Wheely King, though frankly I'm fine with it for a five year old right now. The front axle steering mod worked really well, I also located a Nitro King front bumper assembly for it which provides some protection for the relocated servo. The Digger remains stupidly fun. Jekub fucked around with this message at 17:14 on May 25, 2015 |
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May 25, 2015 17:06
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Hi, seeking refuge in here for some motor questions as it's apparently all the same stuff in terms of motors etc. - Except I'm coming at this via ride-ons/'Power Wheels'. I have been modding some ride-ons for my kid over the past few months and as it stands we have him in 2 different cars, both taken up to 24 volts with a (scooter) ESC and some relays controlling things with a Hall effect pedal in each. He has a Peg Perego Gaucho (jeep) that's holding up very well on the 12v->24v jump, but the Kid Trax Viper (16v from the factory - kind of weird) we just put together for him died a quick death.  Smell test tells me the motors are cooked, so I'm looking to replace the stock motors with something that will take 24v and not die immediately. This is one of the stock motors in the Kid Trax Viper:   I believe it's analogous to a 500/550 motor, with a 32p 10T pinion on it. Keep in mind on these ride-ons there's big reduction boxes to take the 10-20k RPM output and turn it into something usable. I realize these voltages are much higher than most RC stuff, but does anyone know of any 550 motors that could realistically handle 24v without dying a quick death? It looks like a lot of guys use either Traxxas or HPI motors as replacements; Traxxas makes a 16.8v 775 motor that's attractive, except it won't bolt up directly to the gearboxes on the Viper without modification, which I'm a little leery of... Would prefer not to murder the gears with a bad mesh, etc. Would love some input. Thanks.
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May 25, 2015 19:44
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So, the basher-RC question may be resolved anyways. Have a line on a used Twin Hammers for a pretty solid deal, and its got a few pieces already upgraded with some decent replacements. Guy was using it for FPV stuff, so the body is weird, but he's including a new, unpainted one anyways. As long as shipping is okay, I'mma have a project car. Plus then I can play with the Twin Hammers while I replace my steering assembly on the SCX10 (only thing that bugs me, just put out $100 for parts last night).
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May 25, 2015 20:07
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Dude, don't buy a twin hammers. They're a little too small to enjoy unless you're on a not rough surface. That aside I know you said Yeti but not XL. I was on the fence about either one but a friend pointed out that the XL would handle the environment I'd be driving a car like that in much better. The electronics are the same cost as the small yeti to yeti xl, only difference being two batteries at a time. I finished the body paint and decals this morning and finally burned some mAh through it. drat this thing is amazing. Seriously everyone in this thread needs to buy a Yeti XL. Even just 4S with stock gearing is bloody good. Jumping is balanced. It's seriously the only car I can think of that's fun at slow and top speeds. It just decimated anything I drove towards. It mobbed over high weeds and grass without hesitation. The giant tires roll over everything and also provide a supple ride. Buy an XL.
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May 26, 2015 00:43
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Dude, don't buy a twin hammers. They're a little too small to enjoy unless you're on a not rough surface. Hahah, don't tell me that (mainly because I can't find a used XL loving anywhere, and up here in Canuckland they are pricey as poo poo). I'm mainly looking at the used twin hammers since its a stupidly good deal - $200 all in. Even if I don't like it a ton, I can flip it for that fairly easily. A lot of the ground I'm driving on is fairly smooth (walking trails, etc), and I want something that I can set up to hoon a little more than the SCX10, which I'm leaving mostly as a scaler/light crawler. If I grab that, then I've got something for the wife to drive (likely my SCX10), and then I can work on putting together a Yeti or a Yeti XL. Its likely going to be the goddamn XL though. drat you and your sensibilities :P
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May 26, 2015 00:50
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I saw a Yeti XL in action for the first time this this past weekend as my friend just completed his kit version. The thing is a monster. It mulches pretty much any terrain in front of it and jumps like a champ. Definitely get that over the 1/10 version. My OG Yeti was the only Axial product I've ever owned that felt substandard. Granted this was the RTR version, but still. It constantly broke and most of it felt very cheap despite the high price tag. I was happy to get rid of it.
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May 26, 2015 14:18
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I saw a Yeti XL in action for the first time this this past weekend as my friend just completed his kit version. The thing is a monster. It mulches pretty much any terrain in front of it and jumps like a champ. Definitely get that over the 1/10 version. My OG Yeti was the only Axial product I've ever owned that felt substandard. Granted this was the RTR version, but still. It constantly broke and most of it felt very cheap despite the high price tag. I was happy to get rid of it. Hah, so, my wife is awesome. She knows I want a kit. So I was looking online, reading reviews etc. Had a video of the Yeti XL up - she goes "drat that looks fun". So I pull up the price tag. She goes "that's pricey, I hope you can wait until your birthday." Whelp. Ok. I guess :P Sounds like she'll cover the kit, and I'll grab the everything else. I'm okay with this. Also have a used Twin Hammers with a bunch of upgrades coming for a bit over $200 (Canadian) with shipping included. Worst case I can sell it locally, but I think I'll have fun, plus it makes it so I have a second ride for company/the wife to play with.
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May 26, 2015 14:24
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Somewhat Heroic posted:drat this thing is amazing. Seriously everyone in this thread needs to buy a Yeti XL. Even just 4S with stock gearing is bloody good. Jumping is balanced. It's seriously the only car I can think of that's fun at slow and top speeds. It just decimated anything I drove towards. It mobbed over high weeds and grass without hesitation. The giant tires roll over everything and also provide a supple ride. Buy an XL. I'm really enjoying my SCX10 as a crawler, but I was already thinking about something bigger and faster, and you've just sold me on the Yeti XL. Now I need to stop buying upgrades for my SCX10 so I can actually get an XL.
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May 26, 2015 16:10
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Oh, So this is what happens when you put a Li-Po battery thru what probably only takes NIMH batteries. The poor car ran around great for a good 10 or so minutes, then stopped dead. I thought it was stuck and the one tire was spinning, kicking up dust... only it wasn't, it was smoke that quickly turned yellow. The capacitor popped right after i ripped off the car cover. Three wires melted off, the two lines to the battery and the red to the motor. It scorched the box the turning servo is in as well as the side of the radio box. Currently in the middle of swapping out the whole motor and replacing this box with something from my older better car that i know can take lipo.  
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May 27, 2015 01:43
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Somewhat Heroic posted:drat this thing is amazing. Seriously everyone in this thread needs to buy a Yeti XL. Even just 4S with stock gearing is bloody good. Jumping is balanced. It's seriously the only car I can think of that's fun at slow and top speeds. It just decimated anything I drove towards. It mobbed over high weeds and grass without hesitation. The giant tires roll over everything and also provide a supple ride. Buy an XL. Good lord yes, this is all so right. I've run mine (kit version) a handful of times now, and while I put in aftermarket steering, it's otherwise a stock kit with stock RTR level motor and it absolutely rips. I haven't even fixed the bouncy as gently caress rear end and droopy front end and it's just ridiculously competent and playful. It just behaves on a completely different level from 1/10, and it totally opens up the possibilities for where you can run it. I don't think I'm going to bother getting packs to run it at 6s. It's more than fast and punchy enough on 4s. Doesn't even need much in the way of upgrades. The aluminum bellcrank was worth doing, and I might do some inexpensive stuff like RC8T wheel hexes (wider stance) and mess around with springs/shock oil/diff grease. Other than that I'll pick up aluminum shock caps someday and just keep some extra parts around (lower arms, upper links, shock shafts, etc. all cheap stuff)
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May 27, 2015 06:49
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So I just got my new (used) Twin Hammers in the mail. This thing is pretty beastly, I'm very impressed. Need to get a receiver and transmitter (knew that beforehand), but it seems quite solid. Servo's have already been upgraded, came with 2 sets of tires and an extra set of beadlock wheels, a bunch of replacement parts, a new body, etc. Pretty sweet deal for what I paid. I'm tempted to haul the receiver off my Honcho tonight and play with this thing a bit Just wouldn't be able to shift hi/lo.
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Jun 1, 2015 19:06
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To fix my kid's Viper I ended up going with these 12v, 10T 32p motors on eBay that are intended for Peg Perego ride-ons... and they seem to work great! They're almost identical dimensionally to the motors I cooked, they screwed into the stock gearboxes in the stock locations, and even though their armature shaft was a little shorter, the pinion seems to mesh up just right with the gearboxes. Kid went and ripped around the cul-de-sac for an hour last night and I didn't smell anything burning, so I think we're ok.
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Jun 2, 2015 00:51
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I really need to get better and documenting build and detail stuff. I spent most nights (even weeknights) putting this together until 1 AM or so but photos are more fun than   My daughter stayed with me in the garage for over an hour and insisted on helping with putting the oil in the diff, bearings, washers, other stuff.  Little details in painting stuff that will probably come off  Inspiration for the body thanks to thinking about Datsuns because of the new Paul Newman doc from Adam Carolla   Turned out pretty good! This truck  has stolen my heart. Might be my most favorite RC car right now (since it is hard to choose out of 15 or whatever). It mobs so good, jumps so well, and doesn't handle perfectly but good enough which makes it just entertaining.
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Jun 2, 2015 23:01
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Loving that paint job. I've got a few pics from this weekend's hike through a section of the Appalachian Trail in Poughquag, NY leading out to Nuclear Lake. There were about 15 of us, and we ended up covering about ten miles. Not very technical, but still good to do as a group. I think next time we're going to try for something with a few more rocks and obstacles.           A little bit of everything out there, mostly Axial. The greenish G6 Jeep was set up with 4-wheel steering, and driven with a two-stick controller. Really messes with your head, but the guy operating it had it absolutely down by the way we made it out to the lake, and could get that sucker over just about anything. I went through two 5000mAh 2S lipos and was probably about halfway through a 3S 4000mAh by the time we made it back. Really good times. Final tally was couple of busted servos, an aluminum servo horn snapped in half (yeah, really), a broken upper link on a Wraith, a stripped transmission gear, and two disintegrated driveshafts.
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Jun 16, 2015 17:33
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Did some upgrades to the SCX10 over the weekend. Ordered the CMS mount with panhard bar from Level3RC, as well as a new steering link. Installation wasn't too bad, and it definitely made a difference. I need to find a short-head screw that I can use, as the suspension travels into the link arm from the servo. Or just a longer servo horn so it reduces the angle - I'm about 2mm, maybe 3, from full shock compression before it bottoms out, so its not bad. Took the truck for a rip, got it dirty, and it definitely steers better. Also through the Howler customs battery tray on, remounted my electronics, she looks great. I need to re-route some of my wiring (its looking messy), and re-seal my receiver box, but all in all I'm happy. Going to work on putting a better mod for full-sized batteries into the Twin Hammers I grabbed, and yeah, this is a fun hobby. If the weather holds, the wife and I are going to do a trail hike this weekend and take one of the rigs. If so, there will be pictures!
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Jun 22, 2015 18:18
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Any of you guys flown with RC batteries lately? My wife is taking a trip and may need to bring a power pack I put together (inverter + 2x 2s LiFePo4 battery, basically). Seems that the FAA wants a Wh rating marked on the pack. While the batteries are well under the 100Wh mark (about 25Wh each) they just have a mAh rating on them. To make matters worse they're looking a bit on the puffy side even though they should be fine.
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Jul 2, 2015 06:07
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Didn't realize there was an RC car thread, I originally posted this in the RC Air thread in Hobbies I'm looking for some general input on motors/batteries/speed controls for a skid steer 4wd RC car that I would like to build  Basically one of these. I'm aware that most motors can be run in reverse in the ESC supports it, but I'm unsure as to how to connect the transmitter/reciever in such a way that when the throttle is neutral, the motor is inactive, when the throttle is negative, the motor is in reverse, etc. I also know that the higher the number of turns, the slower the motor tends to run, but with the benefit of added torque. It seems likely that I would want something with a reasonably high number of turns to drive what will probably be larger wheels/tires. I'm also a little confused as to the exact specifications for batteries. I understand that C means the number of cells (I think), where 1C is a single cell, 2C is two in series thus doubling the voltage. Whatever battery I buy should be matched to the voltage rating of motor/ESC. The S rating refers to the load potential of the battery, correct? Higher S rating means that the battery can provide more continuous current without damaging the battery. I would potentially like to do two batteries (one in front, one in back) to attempt to keep the weight distribution as balanced as possible. But I'm open to any advice from people who are going to know more than I am. Any input, suggestions, websites to read, anything at all would be helpful before I decide to start spending some money.
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Jul 2, 2015 17:20
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BiohazrD posted:I'm aware that most motors can be run in reverse in the ESC supports it, but I'm unsure as to how to connect the transmitter/reciever in such a way that when the throttle is neutral, the motor is inactive, when the throttle is negative, the motor is in reverse, etc. The ESC will have some calibration steps where you define neutral, full throttle, and full reverse (or full brake for those of us who run forward only  ). Something along the lines of hold throttle channel full, press button on ESC, hold throttle channel full brake, press button again, release throttle to neutral, press button again.
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Jul 2, 2015 21:16
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BiohazrD posted:Didn't realize there was an RC car thread, I originally posted this in the RC Air thread in Hobbies just to correct you, you have the terms mixed up. the "S" in the number of cells (a 2 cell battery is labeled 2S or maybe even 2S1P and a three cell is 3S) the infamous "C" rating is as you mention the discharge rating, higher is better but manufacturers are known to pad this number. anything above 20C is plenty for anything but racing. You can mount your batteries wherever you like and bridge them to run then in parallel. for 2S batteries you even get "saddle packs" where you run two 1S packs matched and in series. this is done to split the pack for packaging reasons in smaller racing cars and trucks. If you are designing the truck from the ground up i bet you will find that running a 2S stickpack longitudenal in the center often is the easiest. atleast thats how i allways end up when i draw crazy things in solidworks. On my quad motored stadium truck i tried all sorts of layouts, but ended up with one center battery. was fun untill it burned down
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Jul 3, 2015 01:49
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I was actually looking at two 5000mAh 4s 25C packs and two 19.5T 2300kv (roughly, don't remember exact motor sizes)
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Jul 3, 2015 03:03
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BiohazrD posted:I was actually looking at two 5000mAh 4s 25C packs and two 19.5T 2300kv (roughly, don't remember exact motor sizes) Wow, that some serious power. i run a 1950 kv motor and a 4s 60-130C pack in my 1:8 scale buggy and that poo poo flies. post video when you are ready to flip the switch
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Jul 3, 2015 11:23
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If you're skid steering, you'll probably want an even higher C rating, as when doing on-the-spot turns your motors will be fighting against each other. Skidsteer is HARD on batteries. I once build a similar thing using DC motors, and while it was a rocket going forwards, it would stall out right away when you tired to turn too tightly.
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Jul 3, 2015 11:37
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Man, this thread is too quiet Got my large battery mount installed on the Twin Hammers, so much better. That thing is a hoot to drive. Think I'll grab one of GCM racing's front mount kits for it soonl, but it does alright for now. Center of gravity is a little high, but putting the battery front should help, and I think I need to adjust the shock oil weight. Debating unlocking the front diff on it. It was a used unit, and he'd put the Vaterra locker on. Not sure if I'm going to end up chewing up a ton of dogbones since I drive it on harder surfaces a lot. Throw million-weight oil in it to give me close to locking for crawling. Not sure atm though.
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Jul 18, 2015 20:51
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Siochain posted:Man, this thread is too quiet True, plus I've been slacking in my off-hours RC-dom lately. I did just finish this sucker though:  The Gelande II from RC4WD. It's a heavy beast and although it has several pre-built parts, it still didn't go together perfectly. The instructions are minimal compared to XRAY and HPI and assembling the wheels nearly made me through the whole thing through a window, but it looks amazing going anywhere.
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Jul 19, 2015 14:34
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