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I've tried 8 different stores and can't for the life of me find the Pledge floor care with the rain boots on the cover. Ugh. In other news...   N-no...Is liquid mask usable for straight lines? My masking tape game is weak 
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Jun 14, 2015 23:28
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It those are raised rivets they will completely gently caress you while masking. Even burnishing the tape down might not help you. Try taping the opposite side of the line and running liquid mask on the other side. Peel off the tape and cut off any liquid mask that ran. Just ball parking there. This is the "Future" I use and it works wonderfully. If that's what you're finding in stores its the right stuff:  Sprayed the bottom of Yellow 44 and used salt a bunch more to chip the poo poo out of the metal panels (most of a Yak 1 is plywood). When spraying there was all sorts of dust on the surface. Thought there might be some gunk in my airbrush, but no, its salt. Very fine salt dust. It will probably look okay once I clean it off but there's going to be more undercoat showing than I had planned. Gonna get some kosher salt at the store next time. This table salt is too fine to be used reliably I guess. Sauer fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jun 14, 2015 |
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Jun 14, 2015 23:44
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Troll Bridgington posted:I found that kit to be pretty solid as far quality goes. There were very few imperfections I needed to fix, at least for the Moebius kit. I'm not sure if there are other kits out there. It's probably more that I haven't done much modeling for 10 years or so, and at 16 the imperfections were ignored or they didn't bother me much. It's really just things like the landing gear halves not lining up well and having to shave off some of them to look like 1 piece instead of two glued together.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:14
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COOL CORN posted:I've tried 8 different stores and can't for the life of me find the Pledge floor care with the rain boots on the cover. Ugh. Sauer posted:This is the "Future" I use and it works wonderfully. If that's what you're finding in stores its the right stuff: This is the bottle I use as well. They just keep changing the label or rebranding it. Same stuff, though.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:40
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Ensign Expendable posted:Ugh, this is really not a good weekend for me for modelling. I managed to spray gloss finish instead of flat. You could make a tank in the rain dio. Just add lots of drips, and puddles on a muddy ground, and a soldier or two in sopping ponchos.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:50
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Post pictures of floor polish erryday!   Talking of masking straight lines, a coat of future over the top of the masking tape before the second colour works wonders.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:51
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Ensign Expendable posted:Ugh, this is really not a good weekend for me for modelling. I managed to spray gloss finish instead of flat. Could be worse. I decided to be lazy and instead of putting on more layers of wipe on poly and then buffing it with steel wool to get it flat, I sprayed badger acrylic flat over it. Looked great, until a few days later and it was obviously peeling and debonding all over the place. Apparently badger spray acrylic doesn't stick to Min-wax wipe on poly. I had to strip the entire thing using steel wool, then touch up paint all the edges where that wore through to the wood, and then re-poly. Took me two loving weeks to fix that bonehead move, and a lot of the surface is now rough with no real way to fix it short of stripping it down to the wood and starting over, which isn't going to happen on this model. I need to get a lot better at doing tests on scrap and not taking the immediate results as good, but actually let it cure properly and then buff/rub it a bit to make sure it's bonding right.
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Jun 15, 2015 00:58
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If any of you are looking for something a step up from Future, particularly something that won't yellow in the future, Liquitex makes a line of water-cleanup Varnishes that work great. Just decant some, thin a little with water, and they spray great. Lots of different sheens as well, so they'll work from matte to super shiny.
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Jun 15, 2015 01:01
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COOL CORN posted:Is liquid mask usable for straight lines? My masking tape game is weak
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Jun 15, 2015 01:30
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You could make a tank in the rain dio. Just add lots of drips, and puddles on a muddy ground, and a soldier or two in sopping ponchos. I was thinking about doing something like this. Not with this tank because it's very obscure and dumb looking as gently caress (Marder II Ausf D) but something else. I am, however, pretty bad at finishing dioramas. I've had a mostly done one sitting on top of my paint cabinet for months and I already have an idea for another small one I really want to do to finally use up my "No Pasaran" decals.
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Jun 15, 2015 02:00
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Wow, that is very obscure and dumb looking as gently caress. The sheer number of different ways of mounting a PaK 36(r) to any given chassis is a great way of wrapping your head around German over-engineering.
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Jun 15, 2015 02:43
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Arquinsiel posted:Wow, that is very obscure and dumb looking as gently caress. The sheer number of different ways of mounting a PaK 36(r) to any given chassis is a great way of wrapping your head around German over-engineering. My favourite part is how you can barely get to the ready racks even after traversing the gun as far as it will go in one direction and can't get to the main ammunition storage without going in front of the gun shield. I don't know why they couldn't mount the gun forward like on the other Marder II, maybe the PzII Ausf D wasn't balanced as well or something.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:01
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If any of you are looking for something a step up from Future, particularly something that won't yellow in the future, Liquitex makes a line of water-cleanup Varnishes that work great. Just decant some, thin a little with water, and they spray great. Lots of different sheens as well, so they'll work from matte to super shiny. Does Future really yellow? I wasn't aware of this. 
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Jun 15, 2015 03:15
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Ensign Expendable posted:My favourite part is how you can barely get to the ready racks even after traversing the gun as far as it will go in one direction and can't get to the main ammunition storage without going in front of the gun shield. I don't know why they couldn't mount the gun forward like on the other Marder II, maybe the PzII Ausf D wasn't balanced as well or something.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:21
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Troll Bridgington posted:Does Future really yellow? I wasn't aware of this. I've got some models that were made by my father about 15 years ago and hung in a sun lit office for most of that time that were clear coated in future. The only yellowing I can see is on some white areas and I'm pretty sure its the white itself that yellowed and not the future. That's just anecdotal of course but I'm pretty confident the stuff will hold up to anything.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:29
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Troll Bridgington posted:Does Future really yellow? I wasn't aware of this. A bit. It's not as extreme as how epoxy glues yellow over time, and a lot slower too, but it happens. It's not a huge deal with military subjects, as the color scheme generally hides the slight yellow shift, but it can effect dipped canopies, and glosses applied over white colors. I'm just super adverse to it myself, as one of the main uses for gloss in garage kits is glossing eyes and teeth, and using Future or epoxy on those can lead to yellow teeth and eyes over time. Sauer posted:I've got some models that were made by my father about 15 years ago and hung in a sun lit office for most of that time that were clear coated in future. The only yellowing I can see is on some white areas and I'm pretty sure its the white itself that yellowed and not the future. That's just anecdotal of course but I'm pretty confident the stuff will hold up to anything. Nah, it was the Future unfortunately. Paints fade over time from sunlight damage, but Future will yellow. That's why you only really noticed it on the white. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 03:34
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Arquinsiel posted:My best guess is that someone saw how well tin flats were selling for WWI and Napoleonic toy soldiers and decided that someday poo poo would take off, so bought stock in Revell De and then went apeshit on making variants of things. I don't think the Germans had any stock in Revell in 1941.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:38
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Somehow forgot to post this earlier:Bloody Hedgehog posted:Do you mean cribbing from D&D?
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Jun 15, 2015 03:39
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Nah, it was the Future unfortunately. Paints fade over time from sunlight damage, but Future will yellow. That's why you only really noticed it on the white. Guess I'll be investing in some primo varnish then for the pieces I don't plan to ever handle.
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Jun 15, 2015 03:43
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Just add salt... and bam!!  Paint me Like One of your French Girls I'm seriously thinking about dropping a fat stack of our funny coloured money on a decent camera with a big aperture and proper colour range because the shading is nearly impossible to see in the light paint color with a cell phone camera. Scale Modelling, it gets expensive if you're crazy. Sauer fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 04:38
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Where can I go to learn how to make dioramas? I've seen some pretty gnarly ones, and my tanks look so boring just sitting on the shelf.
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Jun 15, 2015 04:41
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Armorama has a good section on Dio stuff in the forums. Some books though might be your best option, if you're so inclined. It's nice to be able to reference stuff quickly from a book, and books often go into far more detail than small writeups on the web. The three below are the ones I like the best from my collection (you can click them to take you to Amazon). The first is by Richard Windrow, and he's goes into crazy detail on how be builds his stuff. The second is Woodland Scenics own guide to use their products. It's focused more on train stuff, and their products alone, but the techniques can apply to armour stuff, and anyones products would suffice. Both of the former are ring-bound as well, so they sit nice and flat while you're working. The last is by Sheperd Paine, who is basically the grand-daddy of modern dioramas. His stuff will blow your mind. His techniques might be slightly out of date, but they still apply today, and there's lots of detail explaining his meticulous process.   
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Jun 15, 2015 04:58
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Thanks for that Bloody Hedgehog. Those awesome dioramas from a bit back bit me as well. Now I can pile half-covered bits of mdf up next to my unpainted planes! Can anyone give a quick rundown on 1/48 figure makers? I want to get some nice paratroopers (brit or US) to round out the diorama I'm planning.
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Jun 15, 2015 10:36
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Sanguine posted:Thanks for that Bloody Hedgehog. There are very few plastic figure kits in 1/48. Since it's a airplane scale mainly, there are a bunch of pilots and air crew, but fewer of everything else. I tried to google for resin alternatives, but the only ones I found was from CMK. There's also a 1/48 kit of a C-47 that comes with some paratroopers: http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/c-47-skytrain-paratroopers It would be easier to just go with normal GI's or Tommy's, as Tamiya has 1/48 plastic kits for both. But that might not be what you are looking for.
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Jun 15, 2015 11:09
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Maybe I'm totally behind the times, and all you hep cats know about this, but do you guys know about the website Scalemates? It's basically a big giant interwoven database site for everything scale modeling, sort of an IMDB for modeling. You can keep track of your kits, your paints, your books, whatever, and since it's all connected you can find out every bit of info on stuff you own, or want to own. Interested in a kit, but don't want to trawl across 20 sites trying to find what aftermarket kits exist for it? Search on it, it'll find your kit, list everything aftermarket for it, and tons of other info. You can see the history of a kit, so you can find out when it was first released, and any new versions of it that came later. Particularly useful for old companies like Tamiya, who might still be selling you a kit from the 60's in a shiny new box. You can find out who sells the kit, reviews on kits, people builds of a kit. It's really cool so far.
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Jun 15, 2015 14:15
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Maybe I'm totally behind the times, and all you hep cats know about this, but do you guys know about the website Scalemates? It's a cool site and now it made me want to make a Soviet 1/48 AT-ST with tank riders.
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Jun 15, 2015 15:23
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Maybe I'm totally behind the times, and all you hep cats know about this, but do you guys know about the website Scalemates? Someone in this thread introduced me to it. The fact that it lists not only the Kit`s history but also all the aftermarket bits for it I`ve found very useful.
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Jun 16, 2015 00:50
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Some books though might be your best option, if you're so inclined. Do you have any good naval warship modeling book recommendations? They're what I'm most interested in, but I am working on a pair of 1/700 kits now, and it's surprisingly frustrating.
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Jun 16, 2015 00:53
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Devlan Mud posted:Do you have any good naval warship modeling book recommendations? They're what I'm most interested in, but I am working on a pair of 1/700 kits now, and it's surprisingly frustrating. Sorry, the one aspect of modeling I've never touched is plastic naval stuff. You may want to check out Model Shipwrights though. It's on the same network as Armorama, and caters to a fairly large naval modeling crowd.
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Jun 16, 2015 02:23
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Nebakenezzer posted:Someone in this thread introduced me to it. The fact that it lists not only the Kit`s history but also all the aftermarket bits for it I`ve found very useful. I take my tablet into the model store with me specifically on of this site. It's super useful. I just wish their review sources were broader.
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Jun 16, 2015 05:19
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Jonny Nox posted:I take my tablet into the model store with me specifically on of this site. It's super useful. I just wish their review sources were broader. Yeah. but it may just be case of there not being a whole lot of kit reviews to begin with. And speaking of reviews, anyone know if there is a site that goes into a lot of detail about kit releases, and updates to older kits? I'm interested in on the three Sd.Kfz. 222 kits from Hobby Boss, two of which are "updated" and have "new parts", but I'll be damned if I can find any info on what exactly these updates were and what new parts were added.
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Jun 16, 2015 05:27
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   Very early on in this project, after looking at other peoples build logs of the same ship, I decided that the blocks provided to rig the cannon were hilariously oversized (and terrible looking) so I bought some more realistic sized blocks to use. I'm currently 'stropping' the blocks. This means wrapping a rope (or wire) around the block to hold a hook, or rope or whatever connects to the block. Now that I've gotten 8 of these done (6 with rope, the two to the far right with 28 gauge wire), I think I might understand why the kit blocks are so large. These tiny little things are really hard to work with because they are so small. I gave up on the wire because I didn't think it looked as good as the rope, and because the process of tightening the wire was causing the blocks to split about half the time, and I also managed to lose several blocks by the tension just popping them out. These little buggers are surprisingly hard to find when they fly off the work bench, even on a smooth maple floor. The tiny little hooks are even worse, I lost a bunch of them trying to thread the rope through them until it dawned on me to thread the rope first, then cut them free from the sprue. I need 12 of these double blocks, and then comes the real fun, I get to make 12 single blocks that have a hook like this, plus a rope gets attached and served to the opposite end of the block, and because they are single blocks, they are approximately half the size of these doubles. One of the blocks is hung from the eye-bolt on the gun, which is where the single block gets attached, and these doubles get attached to an eyebolt in the ship bulwarks next to the gun port, and then they get connected with a tiny rope block & tackle arrangement. For reference, here is a (tiny) photo of what the cannons rigged look like using the kit provided gigantic blocks (sorry it's so small, it's the size of the photo's on the forums I got it from, no way to make it bigger). 
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Jun 16, 2015 07:51
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The Locator posted:
Amazing. I will never complain about gluing tank threads again after watching your ship modeling adventures.
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Jun 16, 2015 07:59
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Your work is amazing Locator, but I've gotta say it's put the idea of me building a wooden ship waaayyy on the back burner. Keep it up though, you crazy diamond.
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Jun 16, 2015 09:27
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COOL CORN posted:Where can I go to learn how to make dioramas? I've seen some pretty gnarly ones, and my tanks look so boring just sitting on the shelf. Throw me an email at vetomilitarymodeling (at) gmail.com and I can send you some stuff.
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Jun 16, 2015 15:52
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Airbrush wizards, what psi range do you use for Model Air paints and do you add anything to them? I'm on a ,35 needle. I know ~20 for primer and I've been told ~15 for Model Air, but I think I'm getting dry tip problems.
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Jun 16, 2015 15:57
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Very expensive plywood, very cheap cell phone  Big things are going to happen on this sheet of ply.
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Jun 16, 2015 17:24
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EthanSteele posted:Airbrush wizards, what psi range do you use for Model Air paints and do you add anything to them? I'm on a ,35 needle. I know ~20 for primer and I've been told ~15 for Model Air, but I think I'm getting dry tip problems. With that needle you generally shouldn't have problems shooting anything. As long as your stuff is thinned to the consistency of milk, you can shoot it down to almost nothing PSI if needed. You can thin it with a little water and some dish soap or flow improver to help prevent tip dry. Or you can use an airbrush medium fluid, which companies like Liquitex or Golden sell, which is ideal since it's basically the carrier normally found in airbrush paints, minus the color. Just avoid thinning with a alcohol, as that will increase tip dry if it's already a problem.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:06
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EthanSteele posted:Airbrush wizards, what psi range do you use for Model Air paints and do you add anything to them? I'm on a ,35 needle. I know ~20 for primer and I've been told ~15 for Model Air, but I think I'm getting dry tip problems. I use Vallejo Model and Game air for nearly everything nowadays. I generally shoot at or just under 1.5 bar. You can use them straight out of the bottle but what I do for most coats is add a few drops of thinner straight into the paint cup as well as one or two drops of Vallejo gloss varnish, back flow the air to mix it up and use that. Seems to work nice.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:10
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Have you ever thought that the Marder II was a decent vehicle, but it just wasn't dumb looking enough? Boy have I got the TD for you.  It's a Marder II Ausf D, built on the chassis of the PzII Ausf D This must be a first draft, as the gun's placement in the middle of the casemate cuts off access to the driver, radio operator, and the majority of ammunition carried on board.  Closer look inside. As you can see, the ammunition in ready racks isn't that easy to get to either, the loader would have to duck underneath the gun shield to reach it. The gunner and commander have a choice here: they can sit and have no armour whatsoever or huddle on the floor behind the gun shield. Superior comfort.  Here is the main ammunition magazine, where the old fighting compartment used to be. I guess the driver or radio operator got out and rolled the ammo back to the loader? One may never know. There is also a gun rammer hidden underneath the gun mount. The kit was from Alan, a manufacturer that I haven't heard of before now, and is of rather mediocre quality. The parts did not fit well, some were missing completely (I had to improvise the muffler, for instance), and the instructions were confusing at times, placing a part on a side of the model that wasn't facing me, so I didn't know where to actually put it. The gun traverse was very loose, I had to glue it in the vertical plane since there was no way for it to stay up. The kit came with a few single photo etch parts, the muffler cover and some for some kind of tiny flimsy mechanism on the gun. The decals are nothing special, three sets of unit insignia (two each), three sets of unit numbers (two each) and two sets of crosses (three each).
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Jun 16, 2015 22:35
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