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Dragyn posted:Thanks for this site. I needed some vintage style wallpaper for a project. I don't suppose you know how big a "sample" is from them, do you? I don't-- I've just seen their stuff in a showroom. Looks like you can order two sizes of samples, one of which is a "full repeat" so it might depend on the pattern?
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Jun 17, 2015 22:10
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AFewBricksShy posted:Crossposting from the Movie Posters thread: Michael's sells frames in that size, usually on sale: http://www.michaels.com/ (edit) indeed, you live not far from me. Hit up a Michaels. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Jun 18, 2015 |
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Jun 18, 2015 15:56
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Gothmog1065 posted:They're not purlins, it's a sheathing, if I'm not mistaken. . They're nailing strips for cedar shakes.
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Jun 19, 2015 02:58
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We have a living room that we're looking to turn into a bedroom. It has two doorway openings, both oversized (they are 56" wide each.) One of these we'd like to close off permanently, the other have a door. We were thinking folding doors for each, or for one and then a board covering the other doorway. Would this be the best way to go about it? We are a little worried that a board will look terrible (abandoned house look.) Any thoughts for alternatives? Or would 4 folding/sliding doors be the best way to do this?
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Jun 19, 2015 16:12
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Why wouldn't you remove the trim, thrown in some framing an sheet rock it?
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Jun 19, 2015 16:22
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:We have a living room that we're looking to turn into a bedroom. It has two doorway openings, both oversized (they are 56" wide each.) One of these we'd like to close off permanently, the other have a door. We were thinking folding doors for each, or for one and then a board covering the other doorway. Would this be the best way to go about it? We are a little worried that a board will look terrible (abandoned house look.) Any thoughts for alternatives? Or would 4 folding/sliding doors be the best way to do this? Bi-fold door kind of suck. They tend to get off track, or one opens a little when you close the others, etc. I would put in bi-swing doors personally. Two 2'4" doors with ball catches would work as long as you don't need them to lock.
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Jun 19, 2015 16:23
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Motronic posted:Why wouldn't you remove the trim, thrown in some framing an sheet rock it? It's a rental. We have approval to do mostly what we want, but I don't think we can do major construction.
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Jun 19, 2015 16:34
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:It's a rental. We have approval to do mostly what we want, but I don't think we can do major construction. That's a pretty important detail you left out. Also, that's not "major construction", but what you can and can't do it entirely up to the person who owns the property, so I'd be asking them.
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Jun 19, 2015 16:44
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No kidding. If it's a rental, tack up some sheets for a door and call it a day.
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Jun 19, 2015 18:27
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If it's a long-term rental you're willing to put some money/effort into, make it intentional, you can diy those sliding barn doors or put in French doors. If it's not serious and you just want to fit another bro in there to bring down the rent, a board will look like crap but it'll be fine.
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Jun 19, 2015 20:47
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i like nice words
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Sorry, meant to add that in the original question. As for what we can do, the owner doesn't speak English very well. He told us we can do whatever, but I don't really want to go changing the layout of his house permanently. For the time-frame, we were actually looking to move earlier this year but the market for rentals in the Boston area is absolutely beyond nuts right now. So instead of moving from a 2br to a 3br, we are closing off the living room to make it into a master br and have the original two bedrooms for the kids. We'll be here another year, then likely try again on the market. We ended up just going with two folding doors for each opening. Thanks everyone.
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Jun 19, 2015 22:37
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So my house has a heat pump in it and I know it's about fifteen years old. I have several questions. Is the heat pump the thingie that spins outside your house? Or is the big thing in your basement? Are those replaced separately? Which one is the actual "heat pump" itself? Should they be replaced simultaneously? What is the actual cost to install a new one? Is fifteen years old about when you need a new one? Is there really a $1500 government rebate on this right now? Thanks in advance. I'm pretty clueless about HVAC
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Jun 20, 2015 16:24
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Insane Totoro posted:So my house has a heat pump in it and I know it's about fifteen years old. A "heat pump" is a device to move heat energy from one space to another. The device typically referred to as an "air conditioner" is a heat pump that moves heat in one direction only. With a little bit of redesign of a couple of specific components, you can pump heat either direction and get a "heat pump." That being said, the device inside your house is typically the "air handler" and the outdoor unit is the "condenser" or now "outdoor unit." In a heat pump system, the coils of the inside and outside units are fairly closely matched, so if you replace the outdoor unit for a more efficient one, you frequently have to get a new coil inside. At this point, it's usually easier just to replace the entire air handler (and thermostat) along with the outdoor unit. You need a new one when the current one doesn't adequately heat/cool your house, or you don't feel like paying a ton of money to run an inefficient unit. The federal government is not offering any rebates for heat pump upgrades specifically (unless geothermal, and that's a bunch of money), but individual states (such as Maine) are. The actual cost to install the unit is the cost of the unit plus about $500-1500 for labor, depending on a whole bunch of factors.
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Jun 20, 2015 21:22
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Okay that makes a ton of sense. So basically my realtor was recommending that "replace the heat pump" means he meant to replace both the external and internal hardware. This was the rebate mentioned to me. I'm wondering if it's what it claims to be? http://www.eeprograms.net/ppl/central-air-conditioning/
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Jun 20, 2015 23:00
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When I bought my new furnace there was a variety of state and federal tax refunds, so do your home work! In the end I bought an expensive, high-efficiency HVAC system for about 50% off. Some of those were one-time Obama tax credits, so you probably won't do quite as well as that. Keep in mind that your licensed plumber/HVAC company is the gatekeeper on lot of these, so get friendly with office staff; this one state credit took me several months of back and forth to cut through the bureaucracy. Also, if you live north of the Mason Dixon line, DO NOT get a heat pump system without an axillary furnace. My sister lives in a McMansion in PA, and her house is heat pump only. When it gets below 20-25 degrees or so, the heat pump can't keep up and the house gets cold.
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Jun 20, 2015 23:11
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Insane Totoro posted:Okay that makes a ton of sense. So basically my realtor was recommending that "replace the heat pump" means he meant to replace both the external and internal hardware. A 16-seer unit of reasonable quality installed by a reputable dealer will probably run you $6000+ so in the end that $250 will be nice but at most it's offsetting the jump from 15 to 16 seer, if that. Also worth noting that it's for an AHRI certificate of 16 seer, as installed, not nominal. measured seer ratings can vary wildly depending on the size of the unit and the indoor/outdoor combination so if you do get bids, make sure to ask for the AHRI number for the parts they're bidding. For example, carrier sells their greenspeed system as a 20 seer nominal, but as installed with the furnace and coil I needed, it measured at 17 and change seer. The disparity is not always that large, but it can be. You can look up AHRI heat pump numbers yourself here: https://www.ahridirectory.org/ahridirectory/pages/hp/defaultSearch.aspx Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Jun 21, 2015 |
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Jun 21, 2015 17:59
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Squashy Nipples posted:Also, if you live north of the Mason Dixon line, DO NOT get a heat pump system without an axillary furnace. My sister lives in a McMansion in PA, and her house is heat pump only. When it gets below 20-25 degrees or so, the heat pump can't keep up and the house gets cold. A heat pump when installed without a gas furnace should always have enough auxiliary heat capacity to keep the house warm, sounds like something is not quite right with that install.
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Jun 21, 2015 18:12
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Not sure if this is the right thread, but can anyone tell me what this is and how I can get rid of it? My manual lawnmower won't trim it and it's everywhere. I've been having to weed whack it. The long blade in the pic. Thanks! E sorry for the pic being sideways I'm phone posting
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Jun 22, 2015 16:20
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That looks like Dallisgrass or Quackgrass. Treatment depends on which one it is (your general location would help narrow it down) but your mower should be able to cut those if the blade(s) is sharp. The most important thin in the mean time is to get them cut down before they go to see and spread further.
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Jun 22, 2015 16:31
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Our townhouse has lovely air conditioning. Oddly, our upstairs gets cooler than the downstairs. We're thinking of investing in a window AC unit to help keep the downstairs cool. Our living room is about 400 sq ft. Guides online indicate we should have a 8,000 BTU AC unit for this space. Since it will really just be supplemental to our main AC, would we likely be okay going with a lower capacity unit?
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Jun 22, 2015 17:18
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Motronic posted:That looks like Dallisgrass or Quackgrass. Treatment depends on which one it is (your general location would help narrow it down) but your mower should be able to cut those if the blade(s) is sharp. Alright thanks. I'm in Reno, NV. The neighbor's house is abandoned and their yard is covered in it. I'll have to sharpen the mower blades today and try to trim it down for the sake of our grass then.
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Jun 22, 2015 17:18
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Qwijib0 posted:A 16-seer unit of reasonable quality installed by a reputable dealer will probably run you $6000+ so in the end that $250 will be nice but at most it's offsetting the jump from 15 to 16 seer, if that. Thanks for the input! I'll have to look into it since I know that eventually I'm supposed to replace this thing anyway
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Jun 22, 2015 17:34
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me your dad posted:Our townhouse has lovely air conditioning. Oddly, our upstairs gets cooler than the downstairs. Have you done the obvious and looked if all the grate louvers are open?
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Jun 22, 2015 17:48
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me your dad posted:Our townhouse has lovely air conditioning. Oddly, our upstairs gets cooler than the downstairs. Probably. More important then raw floorspace is: how much sun does it get, how many people in the room, heat coming from adjacent rooms/floors, etc. 8000 is a good all-purpose size for a window unit, and I would just go with that. 10,000 and 12,000 are getting into big and heavy territory, and are usually a lot noisier, too.
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Jun 22, 2015 17:49
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kid sinister posted:Have you done the obvious and looked if all the grate louvers are open? They are all indeed open. The air just trickles out of the downstairs vents and blows much more forcefully upstairs. Squashy Nipples posted:Probably. More important then raw floorspace is: how much sun does it get, how many people in the room, heat coming from adjacent rooms/floors, etc. Thanks. I guess we'll stick with 8,000. The room doesn't get blasted with sun but it's my wife, myself, and our three kids (two are just babies) in the room. The only time another room causes heat is the kitchen, and we try to limit oven usage as much as possible during the summer months.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:15
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me your dad posted:Our townhouse has lovely air conditioning. Oddly, our upstairs gets cooler than the downstairs. A/C units are more efficient and better at dehumidifying the longer they run-- the "ideal" unit runs 100% of the time to maintain precisely the temperature you want indoors. Since it's supplemental, you want undersize a bit, and using the horribly-innacurate-but-better-that-nothing 400sqft per ton rule of thumb, you'd want 12000 BTU total for that room, so half that in the 6000 range will probably be close to what you want.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:21
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So I'm in the process of replacing my main front exterior door and storm door. The door is in and is solid (PHEW) but I've noticed a slight draft from around the door (what the trim/casing would normally cover). Can I simply use some expanding foam spray (whatever the fancy term for it may be) and fill in those gaps or will I be screwing anything up?
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Jun 22, 2015 18:51
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Tyson Tomko posted:So I'm in the process of replacing my main front exterior door and storm door. The door is in and is solid (PHEW) but I've noticed a slight draft from around the door (what the trim/casing would normally cover). Can I simply use some expanding foam spray (whatever the fancy term for it may be) and fill in those gaps or will I be screwing anything up? That is exactly what the blue can of expanding foam is for, and should be done before you put up the trim. Then you caulk the trim in place (just a small bead on the edges) to complete the air sealing. Remember: BLUE CAN. It must say door and window (low expansion) if you use medium or hi-ex foam it will warp the frame as it sets up and the door won't close properly.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:56
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Motronic posted:That is exactly what the blue can of expanding foam is for, and should be done before you put up the trim. Then you caulk the trim in place (just a small bead on the edges) to complete the air sealing. I could not have asked for a better answer. Thanks!! (and yes I just finished staining my trim and it's not up yet thankfully)
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Jun 22, 2015 19:05
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Motronic posted:Remember: BLUE CAN. It must say door and window (low expansion) if you use medium or hi-ex foam it will warp the frame as it sets up and the door won't close properly. What he said. The high expansion stuff expands so much that it can push things out of place, like door frames, trim, drywall, etc. me your dad posted:They are all indeed open. The air just trickles out of the downstairs vents and blows much more forcefully upstairs. Look at your ductwork. Do you have any dampers that are closed, or any zone dampers that aren't working properly?
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Jun 22, 2015 19:06
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Tyson Tomko posted:So I'm in the process of replacing my main front exterior door and storm door. The door is in and is solid (PHEW) but I've noticed a slight draft from around the door (what the trim/casing would normally cover). Can I simply use some expanding foam spray (whatever the fancy term for it may be) and fill in those gaps or will I be screwing anything up? foam spray is the right stuff, but get the lowest expansion stuff you can find because too much expansion will bow the frame.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:11
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Tyson Tomko posted:I could not have asked for a better answer. Thanks!! (and yes I just finished staining my trim and it's not up yet thankfully) Oh, satined trim. Then you want clear silicone for that last step most likely. Otherwise carry on. Also, don't be afraid to use enough foam so that when it sets up it's sticking out a bit in the way of where the trim will go. Just cut it down with a razor knife after it's set up for a few hours.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:18
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This mother loving rules. slap me silly posted:I love that your response to this is to be the mother fucker who wallpapered every loving wall surface in their mother loving house. Of mother loving course. (We're actually going to be much more tasteful than that. Just two rooms) To answer someone else, it's just sand, not popcorn. Just learned the difference.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:29
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kid sinister posted:What he said. The high expansion stuff expands so much that it can push things out of place, like door frames, trim, drywall, etc. Thanks for this tip. I'll look at the ductwork this evening to see if I can find any that are closed.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:43
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Motronic posted:Also, don't be afraid to use enough foam so that when it sets up it's sticking out a bit in the way of where the trim will go. Just cut it down with a razor knife after it's set up for a few hours. Just goes to show how badass that foam stuff really is if it can literally screw up my door frame. Thanks everyone for the great info. I seriously look forward to going to town and shaving off whatever pokes out. This is easily going to be the most fun part of this entire door replacement process (zero sarcasm)
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Jun 22, 2015 20:05
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Qwijib0 posted:A/C units are more efficient and better at dehumidifying the longer they run-- the "ideal" unit runs 100% of the time to maintain precisely the temperature you want indoors. Since it's supplemental, you want undersize a bit, and using the horribly-innacurate-but-better-that-nothing 400sqft per ton rule of thumb, you'd want 12000 BTU total for that room, so half that in the 6000 range will probably be close to what you want. 400sqft/ton is a really aggressive rule of thumb. 600sqft/ton is much more reasonable (and, coincidentally, what window AC sizing guidelines are based off of). me your dad posted:The room doesn't get blasted with sun but it's my wife, myself, and our three kids (two are just babies) in the room. The only time another room causes heat is the kitchen, and we try to limit oven usage as much as possible during the summer months. People put out around 400 BTU/hr sedentary to 600 BTU/hr with moderate activity (kids will be a bit less than that), so I'd assume about 2,000 BTU/hr for the lot of you.
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Jun 22, 2015 21:15
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Tyson Tomko posted:Just goes to show how badass that foam stuff really is if it can literally screw up my door frame. Thanks everyone for the great info. I seriously look forward to going to town and shaving off whatever pokes out. This is easily going to be the most fun part of this entire door replacement process (zero sarcasm)
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Jun 23, 2015 00:05
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Concrete question: Building a garage, pouring the foundation, slab and driveway to it myself. I was thinking of pouring the driveway first, letting it sit for a month so I can get a concrete truck back to the garage so I can pour directly into the foundation without having to use a powered wheel barrel for transporting all the concrete. THEN I got to thinking... if I have a truck near the end of a driveway that has a trenched out foundation, will the truck cause the trench to collapse? SO THEN what I was thinking about pouring the quarter of the foundation directly in front of the driveway first, THEN doing the rest in a month. The driveway going to the garage is at a very slight angle down (losing maybe a foot or two over the 40 feet. Foundation is 4' deep and a foot thick, drive way is 10' x 40' x 4", slab is 30' x 26' x 4" per code. Truck is a 4 cubic yards of concrete and a trailer is 1.25 cubic yards. SO... how should I pout this?
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Jun 23, 2015 02:55
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I have a small creek that runs behind my house. It floods pretty bad, and this year has been terrible. Didn't flood my house but has in the past. Though I have heard stories of flooding house further down stream this year. I came home today and there are pink flags in my neighbors backyard, a couple on the creek edge and maybe another 5 or so in the corn field on the other side of the creek. They seemed to have no rhyme or reason as to their placings relative to each other. Meaning they didn't form a straight line, or seem to indicate any kind of easement etc. It seemed pretty random, but I'm sure it's not. On one flag on the creek edge was written the following... #29 D/V (or Div) Cut - 0.35 I'm guessing they are going dig the creek out to better handle the amount of water we have been getting. If you can tell me more about what I may be seeing that would be great. Thanks.
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Jun 23, 2015 03:03
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:I have a small creek that runs behind my house. It floods pretty bad, and this year has been terrible. Didn't flood my house but has in the past. Though I have heard stories of flooding house further down stream this year. Sounds like a surveyor was there marking the flood plains on that creek. I didn't do a lot of flood plain mapping/marking but d/v could mean ditch/valley or something similar. Cut could mean they need to drop the creek bed that far to fill it. However they won't just cut your neighbor's yard. Are the markers further down the creek than your neighbor's and they just haven't gotten to yours yet?
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Jun 23, 2015 13:56
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