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PyroDwarf posted:Did the panel line thing. Can of dull coat ran out mid-application. Yup, looks mighty fine. If you want to lacquer the model in a way that will keep the paint from rubbing off for years, I suggest using the method I was taught ages ago: apply gloss coat, let it fully dry, then apply dull coat. Something about glossy varnish is tougher, dullcote brings it back down to what it should look like.
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Jun 25, 2015 07:17
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Z the IVth posted:Marble stuff To be honest, I'm still not happy with the base but it got to the point where I'd had enough and just kept going with what I had. If I want to enter it in anything I'll probably come back to it, but at this point its good enough hah.
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Jun 25, 2015 09:55
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Post 9-11 User posted:Yup, looks mighty fine. If you want to lacquer the model in a way that will keep the paint from rubbing off for years, I suggest using the method I was taught ages ago: apply gloss coat, let it fully dry, then apply dull coat. Something about glossy varnish is tougher, dullcote brings it back down to what it should look like. Thanks! That coating method is exactly what I aimed to do. Old air brush was all taken apart and can of Mr. Topcoat ran out. Should be shooting the dullcoat tonight or tomorrow. Then I guess I'll be working on some mantic undead and dwarves. Edit: And here it is.   Trying to figure out my lighting situation. PyroDwarf fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 10:02
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So I've got a can of this clear resin: Does anyone with any casting experience know how long it takes to fully cure? I've been burned before (by a 1:1 resin, different brand, that I bought to experiment with last year; some of the bases I cast with it are *still* bendy) and I'd like to cast things the correct way from here on out. The piece I'm casting is a block roughly 1" x 5/8" x 3/4", slightly larger than a piece of bubble gum.
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Jun 26, 2015 07:17
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Just do a tiny little test batch. Quick setting resin sets in just a few minutes, you'll know really fast if it is.
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Jun 26, 2015 07:27
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if it's still bendy, that means your mix was off! Make sure you have something like a kitchen scale to be certain your mix is precise.
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Jun 26, 2015 09:02
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I've been trying to practice more with my AB. I've been painting up a Menoth army from warmachine which mostly use white and have been having a bitch of a time getting a good gradient to work. So far I've been trying to first spray shadow in the recesses of the folds of this guy's robes using a dark greenish gray (German Field Grey) then going back in with a mid-tone of ivory and then highlighting with white. Is there a trick to having a smoother gradient? I feel like you can still almost see a clean where the shading color stops and if mid-tone sprays over it kind of looks like a light gray and almost makes the shadow look brighter than the surrounding area. I'll try to post pics later but I'm at work. This is only like the second piece that I've tried to use majority AB on outside of just base coating. Any tricks outside of "just get better". I also kind of hate how a wash makes it look worse. The second pic exemplifies this. For reference this is what I'm painting: (not my work) .JPG) (apparently someone does thin their paint) 
Shachi fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jun 26, 2015 |
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Jun 26, 2015 13:32
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Sounds to me like you need to thin your paint a little bit more. To get that gradient, the layers need to be slightly transparent. Alternatively, apply 50/50 mixes of the paints as transitional color.
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Jun 26, 2015 13:37
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How do you keep it from splattering and pooling when it it's that thin?
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Jun 26, 2015 14:44
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Carefully But really that means you're putting too much on at once. You need to build up lots of thin layers in small amounts When its that thin it should be drying within a few seconds, so building up the layers wont take long Using a medium other than water can help, but honestly water is fine E: Completely unrelated, but lookit this lil' fucker  
Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 26, 2015 14:53
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e: ^ awwShachi posted:How do you keep it from splattering and pooling when it it's that thin? I find it helps if you don't overload the brush. Just get a small amount of paint on the tip, then dab off the excess onto a paper towel before you apply it to the mini. Small, light brushstrokes also help you maintain control of the paint. If all else fails, keep a second brush on hand to wick up any excess paint from areas you don't want it to be. Re: casting advice: Thanks, guys! I'll attempt a test cast after I get home tonight; I'm going to need to pick up a digital scale first (which I should've done in the first place, but oh well). The stuff I'm working with is the "X drops catalyst per Y ounces resin" type, so I'm more paranoid than usual about getting the ratio correct. Side question: Any recommendations on what coloring can be safely added to resin, or should I just paint an ink wash onto it after it's set? Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jun 26, 2015 |
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Jun 26, 2015 15:02
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Not sure if I was clear. Was asking about doing it with an airbrush. I'm trying to get better at this brick wall of a learning curve. Since this model is mostly one color it's been the first one that I've been able to try to do almost entirely with an AB. I have a full unit (9) zealots to do next and they are also mostly white. So I'm hoping to hone in some skill on this one model before I try to speed up my process across a full unit. I'm thinking with those, a zenithal highlight will work out just fine though.
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Jun 26, 2015 15:11
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Shachi posted:Not sure if I was clear. Was asking about doing it with an airbrush. I'm trying to get better at this brick wall of a learning curve. Since this model is mostly one color it's been the first one that I've been able to try to do almost entirely with an AB. I have a full unit (9) zealots to do next and they are also mostly white. So I'm hoping to hone in some skill on this one model before I try to speed up my process across a full unit. I'm thinking with those, a zenithal highlight will work out just fine though. You need to lower your pressure and use multiple passes to build up the gradient.
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Jun 26, 2015 15:21
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Ok I'll give that a whirl. Sounds good.
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Jun 26, 2015 15:35
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Ohh, AB. I figured that was a warmachine thing I didnt get 
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Jun 26, 2015 17:49
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Here's what I ended up with on my first attempt. This is early on and my first attempt at painting a model by mostly airbrush. I AB'd the shading, basecoat, and highlights of the robe and armor. The rest is just a first coat on the details by brush.  EDIT: This is my most recently completed. I AB'd the robes but used some wash for the shading...I'm not 100% happy with the smoothness of the gradient on the robes but I really like him once I finished it.   These have been my first couple of minis I've ever painted. Shachi fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jun 26, 2015 |
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Jun 26, 2015 20:56
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Magres was kind enough to send a secondhand lot of the Menoth 2p box to me, but the stuff is already coated with some sort of blue primer that he literally spent months trying to remove. It's already a pretty dark blue IRL, so I was thinking of giving it a light dusting with black primer and just starting the painting (planning a red/black/gold scheme). Ok idea? I think the dusting should bring it close enough to the black base I plan for other models in the faction without obscuring details, and sparing me the pain of stripping whatever the hell it is. 
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Jun 26, 2015 21:08
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That's really nice work, Shachi! You should be pleased. (Don't worry too much about the shading; it looks great for tabletop distance, and even in the closeups it looks significantly better than my early work.) One thing I might suggest, if you're concerned about the shading, is maybe hit the cloth areas with a thinned ink wash to deepen the shadows a bit in the folds. Just a little bit, and just in the recesses. (The backpack, however, looks amazing as is. So clean!) Pyrolocutus: Have you considered leaving the dark blue primer in place, but then doing a zenithal prime of light grey followed by white over it? I've done that with ebay-rescued models that were primed black, and as long as you're really light with the grey & white coats, you can effectively pre-shade the model that way. Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 26, 2015 21:11
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Dr. Gargunza posted:That's really nice work, Shachi! You should be pleased. (Don't worry too much about the shading; it looks great for tabletop distance, and even in the closeups it looks significantly better than my early work.) Hey thanks a bunch. I took some quick pics of what I've done so far. Not as great as stuff I've seen in here but it's been my first attempt at miniature painting. The Reckoner (giant robot guy) was the first thing I painted and it's pretty obvious where I've improved. Also the bronze on him is really washed out and pales in comparison to the others where I bought some higher quality metallics. I'lll have to touch him up at some point. I'm really excited at how the bases turned out also. The figs aren't attached to the bases yet hence why they aren't flush to the landscapes.  EDIT: Heh...I just noticed I forgot to paint the guy in front's boot.
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Jun 27, 2015 07:46
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Either my hands are unsteady, or I'm not squinting hard enough, but I still find unpainted/flaked off/just what the hell where's the paint there's like three layers that are supposed to be here spots on my NCA starter for infinity. It's like someone is dropping my miniatures at night.
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Jun 27, 2015 08:00
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Typhus Incoming:  
Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 27, 2015 08:39
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Owns so hard. Like, all the highlights are so crisp and in just the right places.
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Jun 27, 2015 09:45
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Dumb question, but how do you affix the lascannon sponsons on a (chaos) land raider? The instructions say to not use glue, but they keep falling off on their own. Am I missing something. Or do I summon the mighty blu-tak? I assume they're meant to be removable to record damage and for storage. (I know one could magnetise, but I don't have magnets nor the inclination to get into that sort of thing)
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Jun 27, 2015 11:53
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JcDent posted:Either my hands are unsteady, or I'm not squinting hard enough, but I still find unpainted/flaked off/just what the hell where's the paint there's like three layers that are supposed to be here spots on my NCA starter for infinity. It might be your primer was off - some primers I tried end up so smooth the paint kinda slides off them when you try and brush it on. Sometimes it's so bad that the paint's not really clinging to the primer even when dry - so a little rub or knock is usually enough to knock chips off the loose layer of paints built up on the mini. Total pain in the rear end when that happens.
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Jun 27, 2015 12:09
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Milotic posted:Dumb question, but how do you affix the lascannon sponsons on a (chaos) land raider? The instructions say to not use glue, but they keep falling off on their own. Am I missing something. Or do I summon the mighty blu-tak? I assume they're meant to be removable to record damage and for storage. (I know one could magnetise, but I don't have magnets nor the inclination to get into that sort of thing) You're not supposed to use glue in the joints where the sponsons affix to the sponson mounts (so the bit that lets the guns swivel up and down and left and right) but you're definitely supposed to glue the sponson moutns to the sides of the 'Raider itself. (I play loyalists so I've mangetized my Land Raiders so they've got all three sponson types available) In unrelated news  Uh.. Help?
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Jun 27, 2015 13:39
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Drake_263 posted:You're not supposed to use glue in the joints where the sponsons affix to the sponson mounts (so the bit that lets the guns swivel up and down and left and right) but you're definitely supposed to glue the sponson moutns to the sides of the 'Raider itself. (I play loyalists so I've mangetized my Land Raiders so they've got all three sponson types available) Thanks! That's a lot of bikes. White Scars? I'm in a similar boat - forcing myself to paint 5000pts before an Apocalypse match in September. Might end up padding the old point list with Mark of Nurgle for everyone... Also just going to base coat everything and leave shades and layers for if I get time (I won't).
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Jun 27, 2015 13:51
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Skarsnik posted:Typhus Incoming: Nice work on the blade.
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Jun 27, 2015 14:08
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Thanks 
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Jun 27, 2015 14:18
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Milotic posted:Thanks! That's a lot of bikes. White Scars? I'm in a similar boat - forcing myself to paint 5000pts before an Apocalypse match in September. Might end up padding the old point list with Mark of Nurgle for everyone... Just enough bikes for a Battle Company - you can sub bikes for assault squads in the demi-company listing and I think they more fit the feel of the army. Two full ten-man squads and two leftover bikes - going to fit the plastic Chaplain torso (sprue in the lower right) on a spare bike chassis and have a bike chaplain.
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Jun 27, 2015 15:27
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 Pardon that the lighting is so bad that two minis painted with the same paint look like two different colors. The one on the left is a rescued Vyper from a rolly-kit that was given to me. This is after two coats of Averland Sunset, which appears to be far too yellow to match the rest of my Dark Eldar figures. I have Heavy Goldbrown from Game Color but I'm not sure that's a match, either. What little I remember of my recipe for this army is that I started with Taucept Ochre, trying to make a stylized desert raider look. Is there a good match for that discontinued paint? Edit: Slightly less-awful photo of some of the Warriors I painted about four years ago, for color perspective:  Skarsnik posted:Typhus Incoming: I like my minis grimdark and disgusting, but your paintwork is superb. It reminds me of the early 2000's of White Dwarf, after they escaped the primary colors phase but still used vivid colors to make the minis stand out. The mini looks great and the nostalgia factor doesn't hurt. Dr. Gargunza posted:Does anyone with any casting experience know how long it takes to fully cure? I've been burned before (by a 1:1 resin, different brand, that I bought to experiment with last year; some of the bases I cast with it are *still* bendy) and I'd like to cast things the correct way from here on out. The piece I'm casting is a block roughly 1" x 5/8" x 3/4", slightly larger than a piece of bubble gum. Not to sound prick, but what do the instructions on the can say? I would follow those. Remember to lightly grease the mold first, and bear in mind that once you crack open the top the entire canister has a limited shelf life even if the cap is put on tightly. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 27, 2015 15:31
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Skarsnik posted:Typhus Incoming: This is some pro poo poo dude.
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Jun 27, 2015 16:13
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    I had way too much fun building this dude!
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Jun 27, 2015 16:23
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JcDent posted:Either my hands are unsteady, or I'm not squinting hard enough, but I still find unpainted/flaked off/just what the hell where's the paint there's like three layers that are supposed to be here spots on my NCA starter for infinity. Did you wash the models before priming/painting? There could have been mold release/skin oil on the metal still. I assemble then wash my minis before priming.
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Jun 27, 2015 16:26
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Gonna crosspost this wall of  I wrote because I know there are a lot of people that do casting in here and this thread gets more traffic than the terrain thread:Bad Munki posted:Question about mold design. I have a couple pieces I'd like to make some molds for. Using moldmax 30, it's a tin cure. Going to be casting plaster (or merlin's magic or whatever it is I have 50 pounds of, I can't remember off the top of my head.) I used some hirst molds to cast some parts, which was great, and then I used those parts to make bigger parts, with the intent to just keep casting those few components and assembling them into the structures I want, but I've decided it'd probably be smarter (and look better) to just make a single, monolithic part, and then fix up all the seams to look way nicer, and cast a single terrain piece all as one. Pretty basic stuff, really, I'm just wanting to graduate up to the final piece instead of futzing with assembly/cleanup of seams between parts on every terrain piece.
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Jun 27, 2015 19:03
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So i'm thinking of getting some commissioned work done and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it or perhaps does it themselves. I'm just looking at what kind of prices I should be expecting. I have maybe 25 small based, 30 medium based and 10 large based figures (Warmachine/Hordes) that i'd like painted with moderate attention to detail. Basically if level 1 is just the basics and level 5 is professional studio/product images, i'd be looking at getting a 2 (if that makes any sense). Everything i'm interested in getting done is already assembled and primed. Also, what kind of turnaround time is normal? And does anyone have any recommendations for painters that will do commissions?
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Jun 27, 2015 20:50
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General location helps to inform advice.
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Jun 27, 2015 20:54
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Post 9-11 User posted:Not to sound prick, but what do the instructions on the can say? I would follow those. Remember to lightly grease the mold first, and bear in mind that once you crack open the top the entire canister has a limited shelf life even if the cap is put on tightly. Oh, no problem, I appreciate any advice.  The instructions...don't really say anything about curing times, apart from the standard caveats that humidity, temperature, etc. can affect it. The only time measurement listed on the canister is the 60-second mixing time once you add the catalyst. I did pop one of my test batch pieces I poured about 3 hours ago out of its mold; it seems to be setting nicely and is crystal clear, though the surface is still pretty tacky. I figure about 24 hours should do the trick at this rate. The ones I tested with a mix of glass paint for coloring are not doing as well, and are still cloudy. (For contrast, the 1:1 mix I tried last year did have a specific curing time on the bottle, came out cloudy where it contacted the mold release, and has always had sort of a urine-y color to it.) If this works, then nothing can stop me* from my goal of casting a bunch of clear bits for use with Necrons! * Except work, social stuff, family stuff, bouts of depression/general lethargy, MMO addiction, housecleaning, the fact that I'm never ever going to play 40k in a million years since I've discovered X-Wing, etc.
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Jun 27, 2015 21:29
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thespaceinvader posted:General location helps to inform advice. Sure. I wasn't sure if that mattered since I imagine the stuff will need to be shipped anyways. I'm in NC. Specifically, east coast.
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Jun 27, 2015 21:35
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ShowTime posted:So i'm thinking of getting some commissioned work done and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it or perhaps does it themselves. I'm just looking at what kind of prices I should be expecting. I have maybe 25 small based, 30 medium based and 10 large based figures (Warmachine/Hordes) that i'd like painted with moderate attention to detail. Basically if level 1 is just the basics and level 5 is professional studio/product images, i'd be looking at getting a 2 (if that makes any sense). Everything i'm interested in getting done is already assembled and primed. Minimum you're looking at is the retail value of the models for the paintjob. Well, unless you want to send them to child labour places like BTP.
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Jun 27, 2015 21:41
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ShowTime posted:So i'm thinking of getting some commissioned work done and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it or perhaps does it themselves. I'm just looking at what kind of prices I should be expecting. I have maybe 25 small based, 30 medium based and 10 large based figures (Warmachine/Hordes) that i'd like painted with moderate attention to detail. Basically if level 1 is just the basics and level 5 is professional studio/product images, i'd be looking at getting a 2 (if that makes any sense). Everything i'm interested in getting done is already assembled and primed. Pricing for commissions vary between painters. They control the price, which gives them some leverage for negotiating, and most are willing to work with a customer on prices depending on what level of detail you want. I can't really speak for other painters but I like to keep my prices pretty reasonable, $8-10 for average-sized 28mm models (space marine size, more or less). Larger stuff obviously increases in cost but not by much, unless it's something the size of a Warhound Titan or Colossal. Turnaround time also varies, depending on how much you're tossing at someone (and whether you just want a quick base color and wash or actual tabletop quality poo poo). For me, again, I'd probably get that done in about a month. thespaceinvader posted:General location helps to inform advice. This is also important. Are you stateside? In the UK? Somewhere else? I find that not a whole lot of commission painters want to ship beyond their borders since it's so often a hassle they don't want to deal with.
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Jun 27, 2015 21:44
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