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Let us know what they handle like and if they are loud looking to pick up a set next summer
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Jun 26, 2015 02:38
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Torn Quad Jones posted:Let us know what they handle like and if they are loud looking to pick up a set next summer I had a set of the older G-Force tires on several RX7's and older Civics and don't remember those being too loud. I'll post my thoughts on these after some mileage.
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Jun 26, 2015 02:41
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Torn Quad Jones posted:Let us know what they handle like and if they are loud looking to pick up a set next summer Just put a set on my Miata. They are probably quieter than my RS3s and ZIIs bit the car is too loud to tell. I do quite like them so far though. Plenty of grip for their price.
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Jun 26, 2015 03:56
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Daytime pics 
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Jun 26, 2015 12:20
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Torn Quad Jones posted:Let us know what they handle like and if they are loud looking to pick up a set next summer I have have the same tire (in a different size) on my first gen Fit and haven't noticed any tire noise. They were cheap, my commute is short, and I already had winter tires so they are pretty much perfect for me. No complaints about 1000 miles later.
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Jun 26, 2015 16:38
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Update: BOOOOOO the Progress Rear Sway Bar doesn't fit on the car. Apparently it's only for previous generation Fits despite being labeled as 09+ compatible. The bar is about 4 inches too short to go between the spring perches. Initial impressions on the G-Force tires are good. No noticeable additional noise, and grip seems very good.
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Jun 26, 2015 18:45
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Installed yesterday: - Magnaflow exhaust - 034 HFC - AWE downpipe - Hotchkis H-sport sways - 3.0TDI intercooler - Eurocode silicone hose kit - Eurocode turbo inlet tube - Eurocode high flow intercooler pipe - 034 trans mount - Apikol red diff mount  Also got flashed to "stage 2+," whatever that means.
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Jun 27, 2015 04:11
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I bought this the other day. It was out west until five years ago so the undercarriage is solid, which is an unbelievable find for A: a 1993 Nissan and B: in the mid-atlantic. This took 6 months of active craigslist sleuthing and a perfect storm of an ad including: no picture with the ad, vague description, an undrivable truck, and old couple that was bad at the internet but very kind in person. 1993 D21 4cylinder 5 speed 4WD. 170K miles.  Then I replaced a frozen front brake caliper. No pictures because hey it'a caliper and nothing to see here. I got records with the truck and the entire front brake system had been replaced 2k miles ago but one caliper had frozen from disuse. Then I heard the wonderful sound of a timing chain rattling around inside the front case. Time for a chain kit and gears! Old broken guides  Mid-process  This bolt was the only thing keeping the chain in place on one side.  I took the wheels off to black them out. Stripped lug nut! Out came the dremel.   It's finally all back together today and running smoothly - tho not before I tried to ruin everything by attempting to start it with a breaker bar still attached to the crank pulley.  E: added content ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 27, 2015 04:20
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ThirstyBuck posted:I bought this the other day. It was out west until five years ago so the undercarriage is solid, which is an unbelievable find for A: a 1993 Nissan and B: in the mid-atlantic.  1995 Nissan XE V6 (VG30E) w/70K mi. haver here. I'll be watching 'cause I'd like to pick up a 90's 4WD D21 some day, too.
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Jun 27, 2015 05:31
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I noticed my AC hasn't been blowing as strong as it should be as of late. Check your cabin filter more than every other year folks...
Grumbletron 4000 fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 27, 2015 11:24
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ThirstyBuck posted:I bought this the other day. It was out west until five years ago so the undercarriage is solid, which is an unbelievable find for A: a 1993 Nissan and B: in the mid-atlantic. Yesterday I changed the spark plug cables out on my 4 banger B2000, which made an immediate difference in how well the truck behaved. So I guess I was right about cylinder #4 having a bad connection. Entertainingly enough the box the Beck/Arnley BLUE THUNDER cables came in looks like it could be from the very late 80s to early 90s. 
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Jun 27, 2015 13:06
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:I noticed my AC hasn't been blowing as strong as it should be as of late. Check your cabin filter more than every other year folks... High 5! 
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Jun 27, 2015 18:32
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After I saw what mine looked like I changed the one in my lady's Legacy. It looked about as grody as yours, maybe worse. I always thought the HVAC in that thing was a little asthmatic. Both our vehicles blow fairly mighty now!
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Jun 27, 2015 21:53
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Arriviste posted:
Sure thing. Not pictured is a quart of POR-15 and my angle grinder with a braided wire brush. I'm just waiting for it to stop raining.
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Jun 28, 2015 02:02
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ThirstyBuck posted:Sure thing. Not pictured is a quart of POR-15 and my angle grinder with a braided wire brush. I'm just waiting for it to stop raining. POR-15, hmm? Haven't heard of it until now. I've been looking for something to put on the only significant rust on the body, a scrape on the passenger side rocker panel.
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Jun 28, 2015 02:14
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Filled the old rear end truck up again this morning and found that on the last tank I got 25.87 mpg. This makes the third tank where it was just short of or right at 26 mpg. If this keeps up and gas goes a bit higher it will end up being cheaper to drive the 87 B2000 than the 06 Civic SI. Not by a particularly meaningful amount, but still 
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Jun 28, 2015 03:04
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ThirstyBuck posted:I bought this the other day. It was out west until five years ago so the undercarriage is solid, which is an unbelievable find for A: a 1993 Nissan and B: in the mid-atlantic. The KA24E (and DE) are famous for making GBS threads out guides. The E only uses two, while the DE doubles up on the chains (and I think the upper chain used 3 guides initially, then was downgraded to 2 guides). You have the E. Nice find, should run forever now that you've changed the guides. How much cursing did you do trying to line the distributor back up?
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Jun 28, 2015 03:25
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Oil change and a new catch can: Also the 3/8" vacuum port on the left valve cover now has an adorable little breather cap instead of an ordinary rubber seal cap,  The rest of the suspension parts I still need are due in within the next week or so, and I also ordered one of these. As much as I love the idea of more power, I'm even more stoked that I will finally get rid of the godawful creaking noises from the collapsed strut mount bearings every time I make a turn. E: Did some cleaning and finally threw a few coats of primer and paint on the faded fuel rail crossover pipe. 
Root Bear fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 28, 2015 03:59
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Put the original grille back on, realized I would never get around to or have use for installing driving lights behind the mesh grille. New serpentine belt. New air filter. New cabin air filter. Replaced my broken amp.
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Jun 28, 2015 21:16
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Changed the oil on my 
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Jun 29, 2015 00:14
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some texas redneck posted:The KA24E (and DE) are famous for making GBS threads out guides. The E only uses two, while the DE doubles up on the chains (and I think the upper chain used 3 guides initially, then was downgraded to 2 guides). You have experience with that do you? MOST of the cursing came from me as my ratchet, still connected to the crank pulley bolt, smashed into everything as I turned it over. My heart almost stopped. The whole repair went pretty smoothly until I started the truck for the first time. No power. At all. Hold to the floor and count to 10. You're at 4k rpms. It was late. Dejected I went home and had a beer and dialed up the inter webs to see where I had gone wrong. Nothing had smashed into each other so I was sure all of the chain business behind the timing cover was fine. Beyond that it could only be the pump/distributor setup. I came back the next day to redo it and actually paid attention and it started right up. Definitely a KA24 hazing ritual tho. I just looked online. A new hood and both fenders for this thing are $160 bucks.  The "tension side" guide is very beefy but the "slack side" guide, the one that always grenades, is about 1/10 as robust. I'm not sure why they didn't make both out to the same material.
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Jun 29, 2015 05:13
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Arriviste posted:POR-15, hmm? Haven't heard of it until now. I've been looking for something to put on the only significant rust on the body, a scrape on the passenger side rocker panel. It doesn't look like you have big holes, so just a pint of POR-15 plus some primer / UV-proof topcoat and a couple of wire brushes and some sandpaper might be enough for you. Plus CLEAN THE gently caress OUT OF IT after you scape away the rust and prep the surface like your life depends on it (POR-15 sells "marine clean" for this purpose) and it's a fun way to spend a couple of hours. And an excuse to buy a heatgun if you don't have one already.
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Jun 29, 2015 05:23
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ThirstyBuck posted:You have experience with that do you? I have experience replacing them on the E (SOHC). The DE (DOHC) runs the distributor off of the exhaust cam, and can only be something like 10 degrees off unless you get the engine timing off. The DE also usually made it into the Altima in FWD configuration (which made it nearly impossible to remove the timing cover with the engine in the car - hence why I got rid of it), or into the 240SX (not nearly as cramped, but still a pain in the rear end). We pulled the drat distributor so many times trying to get it lined back up on the last E I helped with that we decided it'd be easier to just buy a few oil pump gaskets, get the engine to TDC, drop the distributor in pointing at #1 TDC, and slowwwwly work the oil pump back in while holding the distributor. On the first one, it turned out I hosed the head gasket up anyway (WHY WOULD YOU USE THE HEAD GASKET TO SEAL THE TIMING COVER?!?!?), so it all had to come back apart. 
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Jun 29, 2015 07:38
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some texas redneck posted:(WHY WOULD YOU USE THE HEAD GASKET TO SEAL THE TIMING COVER?!?!?)... Thankfully I seem to have dodged most of the major obstacles including the aforementioned head gasket abortion. I have no experience with these vehicles other than what I have read or researched, but with this replaced I'm feeling good about using it daily despite being now quite old. I also added an extra quart of Redline synthetic manual tranny fluid as Nissan placed the fill hole too low and the brass syncros/bearings are not adequately lubricated(?). Exeudork - I believe you are in Merica's hat? I came across some stuff called "Texaco Rust Proofing LB." That poo poo makes POR-15 sound like party glitter in terms of protection. I just can't find anyone that sells it. Supposedly it only comes in 1/4 barrels (128 lbs)! I've never used POR-15 so this will be my first experiment/experience with it. My other car is a 98 E36, but it is from Texas so hopefully I'll never need to use it on it.
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Jun 29, 2015 17:14
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The paint has been coming up in big chunks off my bonnet and I didn't want to spend the money or time to have it blended in correctly.... so black. Like a scrub. tobu fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 00:53
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Got a consultation at the spring shop, and of course they can't get any new ones so they're going to go through the books to find some compatible for the front. I'm now dreading a call that they will not be able to replace them. I also got a tree removal consultation and was quoted three times what I had anticipating, so I may not get the springs either way! Oh and I replaced the fuel filter. I probably will only have to go through a dozen more before its clean.
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Jun 30, 2015 01:04
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After my alternator gave out about 2 miles from home, forcing my brother to come and haul me home with a tow dolly, I decided to tear my old one apart and do a little upgrading. The 10DN alternator in the Corvair uses a unique front body and reverse rotation fan. Fortunately, this body and fan will fit on a newer 10SI or 12SI, so I grabbed a 94 amp 12si off of a 85 Buick Regal. It also lets me do away with the old electromechanical voltage regulator, because who doesn't like having two extra sets of points that determine whether your electricals work or not. The old 10DN used the dash light to excite the field coil, and the newer alternators have a similar dummy light connection. The only problem is they will backfeed voltage into the old style harness and keep the ignition hot after the key is no longer in run, so I picked up a diode pack built into a relay body. Having this idiot light is CRUCIAL on an air cooled Corvair as it tells you if you have thrown the cooling fan belt, and can save you from some deleterious overheating. Here's a shot of the leftover bits of the alternator.  I bead blasted the front cover and fan, and painted them in rebuilder's cast and tractor enamel respectively. I ordered a new bearing for the front, but UPS decided they couldn't find my address despite getting about 9 packages a week here. Anyway, I'm also planning on rewiring the harness to include larger wiring from the alternator, a main fuse, engine fuse block, and relays for my planned wideband, electric fuel pump, and electronic ignition 12V source. I've removed the coil resistance wire and plan to use it and the starter solenoid's start terminal diode OR'd together to turn on the wideband heater and ignition relays, and send them both to an oil pressure safety switch for the fuel pump. It'll also run the idiot light in my dash. I've got new "Delphi Twin Lock" pins for the main harness connector, "Packard 56" crimp terminals and bodies for the senders, and "Fastin Faston" crimp terminals for the relays.    That little rubber sleeve covers the bend in the cloth wrapped resistor wire, the conductors stick out when you make a 180 like that. It goes from the firewall starter motor connector, into the harness, and makes a 180 to head back to the main body connector there. I've ordered several hundred feet of assorted colors and gauges of GXL wire and the appropriate crimpers. I even got some really cool German wire harness tape to wrap the whole thing up in. Wish me luck! Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 19:37
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Man it is great to hear someone else speaking my language  automotive electronics is fun especially when you have to work with existing hardware.Any reason you didn't consider upgrading to a 2 or 3 wire alternator? They usually maintain a much more accurate charging system voltage due to not dumping nearly 100 amps through the wire they're also using to sense system voltage, so I try and stay with them as much as possible.
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Jun 30, 2015 19:48
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It is, actually, a 2 wire alternator. Field and reference! I just didn't mention that so much. Got a nice new connector and terminals for that, too. Edit: Also, went ahead and derated the bundled wire current carrying according to http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/mil_std_975_wire.htm, interpolated for my insulation. Hopefully this will work out, I don't mind an extra bit of copper in there. Fortunately everything short of the fuel pump is within feet of the distribution, so I should have some leeway. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 19:50
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Awesome! Packard 56s suck and annoy the poo poo out of me weatherproofing wise (what weatherproofing? ) but hey, you gotta connect to stuff that was designed for them sometimes. SiF and I went through a brazillion of them putting his dad's CJ5 back together.
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Jun 30, 2015 19:57
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ThirstyBuck posted:Exeudork - I believe you are in Merica's hat? I came across some stuff called "Texaco Rust Proofing LB." That poo poo makes POR-15 sound like party glitter in terms of protection. I just can't find anyone that sells it. Supposedly it only comes in 1/4 barrels (128 lbs)!
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Jun 30, 2015 21:16
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The Texaco stuff sounds like lanolin oil mixed with a small quantity of stearic acid, if Google is any indication. Fluid Film is also lanolin, so it might be worth trying both. There's also LPS-3 in the US, which is a waxoyl kind of setup.
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Jun 30, 2015 21:39
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Just brought the tC into the dealer to get the oil consumption test done for the piston ring "warranty enhancement". Weird seeing tamper evident tape on your engine bay.
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Jul 1, 2015 01:51
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Dropped a nut into an inlet port today while fitting the inlet manifold. So, a highly successful day, I guess.
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Jul 2, 2015 01:15
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Sounds painful. Or exciting if you're into that. Pulled the head liner and sunroof mechanism from the lovely bmw since it was broken. Have to figure out a lexan panel or something.
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Jul 2, 2015 01:23
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blech
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Jul 2, 2015 03:48
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Ordered new front springs (yay) and figured out why it suddenly started sounding like a neglected old truck. A hole about the size of a nickel maybe 10" before the muffler, right under the cab. It's going to stay that way until I get the new springs on.
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Jul 2, 2015 04:06
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Changed the oil and installed a Fumoto quick valve on the BRZ.  Also swapped out the loud-as-balls after-market exhaust with a less-loud-as-balls one.
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Jul 2, 2015 06:43
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Self explanatory.
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Jul 2, 2015 15:42
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One new tire. I was hoping I could talk them into running one of them through road hazard (one front tire was down to 3/32 and had a nail in it, and they didn't really want to patch it unless I had no other option, but did say they could if I just wanted to make it through the weekend), but no go on the road hazard bit. I'll replace the other front one next week, since it's just as worn out. At least the worst tire is off of the car now - it had a nasty flat spot on it. The other front tire gets replaced on Monday or Tuesday. They worked with me on the price a bit, which was really awesome of them. The original price to replace it was exactly $2 more than I had in my pocket. Guy at the counter just said "give me a minute, I don't want to see you doing any delivery on that tire" (I was still in my Pizza Hut uniform) and managed to knock $9 off somehow. Don't want to ask how, I just know I was able to actually buy dinner instead of eating ramen because of him.  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jul 3, 2015 |
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Jul 3, 2015 03:15
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