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International Shipping is where most stuff gets broken in transit. I won't do it unless i absolutely have to. Also I finally put some stuff in the cabinet, a year after moving in.  Theres models from nearly a decade ago in that shot.
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Jun 27, 2015 22:05
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Aw yiss, is that mr anus I can spot half way down there?
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Jun 27, 2015 22:07
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Skarsnik posted:Aw yiss, is that mr anus I can spot half way down there? Mr Anus has pride of place in that formation.
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Jun 27, 2015 22:10
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Always liked the power weapons on them
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Jun 27, 2015 22:13
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Skarsnik posted:Typhus Incoming: This is one of my favorite paintjobs I've seen in this thread, good god. The colors are perfect, the metallics on the scythe are really distinctive, and I love the sort of lightning patterning that's going on his armor. Super crisp highlights too. In short: Slimnoid posted:This is some pro poo poo dude.
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Jun 28, 2015 06:56
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Cheers dude, much appreciated  The blade wasn't hugely complicated, and you could make it as easy or hard as you want depending on the level of blending. 50/50 basecoat leadbelcher/abaddon black. Thin your paints! Blend up to pure leadbelcher on the blade bit with a really properly watered down leadbelcher. So you can bearly see the layer but it dries within seconds. It builds up quickly though. Sounds like hard work, but we're talking maybe 4 layers and 45 seconds work? The top flat curved surface done the same, nothing else touched Do the same with pure chainmail, only on the edge of the blade, again this was only 2/3 layers maybe? At this point i did the edge highlighting in pure chainmail, almost all side of brush stuff. The only hard bit was the line along the side of the blade as that's just hold your breath steady hand stuff Now the fun bit - made 2 glazes of beastial brown and liche purple using lahmian medium (love that stuff). Put it on in patches all over, purple first and not being afraid to overlap. The colour will be dulled but the blending should show through. You're not washing here, so don't go mad, you want it sitting on the flat surfaces. Finally blop some Nihilakh Oxide on a few bits and bobs
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Jun 28, 2015 08:23
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gah, the minis in the WoW board game were deceptively detailed. He seemed like he had a good amount of detail. Also the plastic is soft, so it was hard to remove the mold lines without damage. 
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Jun 28, 2015 13:32
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Skarsnik posted:Cheers dude, much appreciated Very similar to how I did the blade on Guilliman except i had purple and turquoise as contrasts.
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Jun 28, 2015 14:53
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PyroDwarf posted:Also the plastic is soft, so it was hard to remove the mold lines without damage.
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Jun 28, 2015 15:16
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serious gaylord posted:International Shipping is where most stuff gets broken in transit. I won't do it unless i absolutely have to. Where'd you get the clear risers? I need some of those for my cabinet
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Jun 28, 2015 19:10
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OATH THREAD XXXPOSTGareth Gobulcoque posted:OATH COMPLETE
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Jun 28, 2015 19:42
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Z the IVth posted:Where'd you get the clear risers? I need some of those for my cabinet Moreplan. They're jewelry display stands.
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Jun 28, 2015 19:45
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So I'm trying to get back into painting after probably 15 years of doing nothing with my warhams. Goal is not to make every miniature amazing, as I'm painting a Skaven army and that would take years, however I would like the regiments to look goodish but not uniform (as that's not really the Skaven way). Biggest challenge for me is that GW changed all the paints I was familiar with so I switched to Vallejo. This means I have to experiment with colors however and that has resulted in some rather ugly Skaven. A giant rat that I used to work out fur color for the models.  A clanrat that isn't finished yet but I'm not sure where to go with the colors right now. It's missing a bit of brightness  And yes the pictures are kinda lovely, don't have a lightbox or a good room to paint/photograph yet (should be finished setting all that up in a week or three). Any suggestions for color schemes for Skaven that don't make them too light?
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Jun 28, 2015 19:48
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Z the IVth posted:Where'd you get the clear risers? I need some of those for my cabinet Pretty sure that's from Ikea. I have the same one and it's surprisingly inexpensive for the quality
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Jun 28, 2015 19:49
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:OATH THREAD XXXPOST My mind immediately saw this, I'm sorry. 
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Jun 28, 2015 20:33
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That's amazing.
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Jun 28, 2015 20:42
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Progress on RT Dread conversion. Now with cables, more bulk and 500% more skulls. Shoulder things are GS casts from the Dreamforge leviathan kit. Still needs cleaning up, I'm going to add som Grey Knight shields and paraphenalia to the front, as well as some sensors, smoke launchers and a searchlight.
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Jun 29, 2015 11:05
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That's looking amazing dude.
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Jun 29, 2015 15:49
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Yeah that's pretty boss, can't wait to see it painted up. I feel like I may have asked this before but can I use brush-applied gloss varnish as a stand in for still water? Don't much feel like spending £10 on 200ml of Vallejo still water when I only have a few small bases to do.
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Jun 29, 2015 16:24
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ijyt posted:Yeah that's pretty boss, can't wait to see it painted up. Use a bit of PVA if its not too deep. Too much and it will yellow with age (a few years though)
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Jun 29, 2015 16:48
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serious gaylord posted:Use a bit of PVA if its not too deep. Too much and it will yellow with age (a few years though) Then it becomes a latrine.
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Jun 29, 2015 18:19
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This just came in from shapeways: Girlfriend and kids are out of town for the next couple of days, time for some seriuos ham time!
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Jun 29, 2015 19:17
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serious gaylord posted:Use a bit of PVA if its not too deep. Too much and it will yellow with age (a few years though) That's fine, I'll be adding inks and paint for a polluted, stagnant look anyway. Thanks!
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Jun 29, 2015 19:59
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HardCoil posted:This just came in from shapeways: I can tell what the bolters are but what are the other things? Shapeways has some nice custom bits but their prices are still a bit too rich for my blood given that I'd need to buy 10-20 helmets or whatever.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:02
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There's backpacks a psycannon and various belt feed adaptors in addition to the bolters. Shapeways prices are OK if you design your own stuff. It's only when you also have to pay a markup to the designer (which is fair enough of course) that it gets a bit steep. With this set, at their very best material, I'm a above forge world prices, and in the region where I'm considering getting into resin casting once I get a proper workshop.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:56
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ijyt posted:That's fine, I'll be adding inks and paint for a polluted, stagnant look anyway. Thanks! Pour it in layers, dont try and do more than a few mm at a time or it will take ages to dry and you'll inevitably poke it and leave a giant hole.
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Jun 29, 2015 22:10
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Updates on the Venoms. Platform of on the rescue model looks like hot garbage, mainly due to my bad photography. There is a small amount of pooled ink that I need to fix, though. I discovered today that my pot of liche purple or whatever-the-gently caress is gone, maybe it's in storage but it probably dried-out months ago. From a modeling perspective there is a convenient out: I have all the infantry done, since it's the vehicles left I am free to do something different and it won't look too bizarre or inconsistent. I used my old favorite, French Grey-Blue, covered in in purple ink. These aren't done yet, this time I used Gehenna's Gold instead of Mythril Silver topped with Gryphone Seppia to color the weapons. These are about 65% done, I used greenstuff to fill the bubble in the cockpit of the rescue model. Lots of touchups to do as well as highlights. This project has shown me just how different the Venom and Vyper models are. I shared the reaction that the Venom was a lazy ripoff, it's a rather clever play on how a piece of technology shared by both races changes and is re-purposed over time. More highlights and cleanup to do, I'm surprised how so few of the current highlights show up in that photo.  A wash of Agrax Earthshade made the hull color close enough of a match for government work. Next to a previous model I see how the other color is closer to blue than purple, maybe I'll repaint the air foils but I'm happy with the canopy color. Once I finish these I'll probably do the Pain Engine next, there's still a set of Scourges on deck to assemble and paint as well as a Haemonculus.
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Jun 29, 2015 22:14
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Crappy phone pics of my wip pirate orcs. I finished rank 2 and 3 in about two weeks. This is crazy unsustainable lightning speed for me. Just the front rank to go. I'll static grass em all when they are done. Awesome pirate parts by Spellcrow, crappy Orc parts by GW. These were to be counts as additional hand weapons guys. Who knows what they will be next week.  
dmnz fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 05:55
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I'd like to paint a small model for my grandfather. He likes history and old Spanish sailing ships, but after a lot research there are no models of spanish ships that looks good at a small scale. I don't have the time or energy to model up a 20" wooden ship either, which will be a bit overkill as a gift. I was thinking I might try a Pegaso model like one of these:      Has anyone here had any experience with them?
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Jun 30, 2015 09:37
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BULBASAUR posted:Has anyone here had any experience with them? I've done some, all of which were metal. They were easy to assemble, but did require some putty work to fill joins. I didn't have to pin anything but that may be necessary on some models. I'd stay away from horses since they're a bit of a nightmare to get together. They're gorgeous sculpts though and really reward painting effort.
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Jun 30, 2015 10:58
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dmnz posted:Crappy phone pics of my wip pirate orcs. I like them. I was thinking of doing a Mordheim gang of Pirate Orcs myself.
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Jun 30, 2015 13:46
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berzerkmonkey posted:I like them. I was thinking of doing a Mordheim gang of Pirate Orcs myself. Porcs
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Jun 30, 2015 14:57
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Indolent Bastard posted:Porcs Yoink (Oink?) Stolen.
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Jun 30, 2015 17:04
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dmnz posted:Crappy phone pics of my wip pirate orcs. I like the models but one thing you really have to watch out for with those orc sculpts is to make sure they're standing up as straight as you can get them. You've got a bunch of dudes basically staring at the ground. They'll look a lot better if they're looking up at the viewer instead of like they are about to start a somersault... it took me a long time to realize what was wrong when I was doing mine.
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Jun 30, 2015 17:15
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Under 15 posted:I like the models but one thing you really have to watch out for with those orc sculpts is to make sure they're standing up as straight as you can get them. You've got a bunch of dudes basically staring at the ground. They'll look a lot better if they're looking up at the viewer instead of like they are about to start a somersault... it took me a long time to realize what was wrong when I was doing mine. Yep agreed. They are actually more upright than they seem in the pictures. My bad lighting and camera angle haven't helped there. I'll get a better pic when the unit is done.
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Jun 30, 2015 22:00
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Those pirate orcs are simultaneously adorable and terrifying. Well done sir.
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Jun 30, 2015 22:09
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I've been painting for over ten years and I just now made a terrible discovery: wet lacquer dissolves washes/ink. There was a tiny mote of fuzz or dust on a model I had just sprayed, so I wiped it off. That wiped the brown ink/wash I had applied. This is going to be a pain to color match/correct. Wait until the lacquer dries before pulling off little dust/fuzz/petdander/whatever.
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Jun 30, 2015 22:25
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Just finished the third Chaplain I've painted up for my Ultras. I think the secret to highlighting black and enjoying it is to use those blueish Shadow Grey/Space Wolves Grey colors instead of just regular greys.    
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Jul 1, 2015 04:00
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serious gaylord posted:I've done some, all of which were metal. They were easy to assemble, but did require some putty work to fill joins. I didn't have to pin anything but that may be necessary on some models. Thanks dude, I'll see about picking one up.
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Jul 1, 2015 07:13
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NlKPA7HtT4 Well I say goddamn!
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Jul 1, 2015 07:51
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