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I'm going to try methylated spirits (denatured alcohol in the US) - it melts paint but leaves all the plastic I've tried it on just fine. I've never tried it on styrene though - I'll try it later today. Clean spirit should be good as well - it doesn't smell like white spirit does and again it is plastic-safe, although I haven't tried it on styrene. In other cheap alternative news, I recently ordered a 250ml bottle of 100% acetone to top up my Tamiya and Mr Hobby fast plastic cement (what scale modelers call 'hot' cement) - and it works perfectly. Don't get nail polish remover or even extra-strength polish remover, it's not strong enough. Also, I've been trying the metallic paints from Darkstar Miniatures:  Sprays really well through an airbrush, I used Les Bursley's paint thinner, airbrush thinner and plain water to thin the paint and it's great. There's 18 different colors from a greeny gold to bright silver, with loads of different golds, brass/bronze, copper and lots of different steel/silvers as well.
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Jul 5, 2015 13:57
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Nope, current UK recommendation is dettol after they changed the formula on Fairy Power Spray IIRC. Don't dilute it at all, keep it in a well0sealed glass container, wear gloves when you're scrubbing, scrub and rinse well.
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Jul 5, 2015 13:57
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StabMasterArson posted:First time painting something non-GW, Big Boss from a Ground Zeroes miniatures set. Felt pretty good about this one so decided to post it, still need to figure out how to take the better photos though so does this look like poo poo or what
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Jul 5, 2015 14:42
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Or what. It's a bit difficult to tell given the lighting, but it looks clean and reasonably well shaded. We'd be much better able to tell if it wasn;t backlit.
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Jul 5, 2015 14:45
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StabMasterArson posted:so does this look like poo poo or what front lighting instead of backlighting would really help us tell...? looks good though
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Jul 5, 2015 14:45
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ok, thanks
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Jul 5, 2015 14:55
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Milotic posted:UK goons, when paint stripping citadel miniatures painted with citadel paints, can I dilute the Dettol, and if so, by how much? I've got a lot to strip, and I can see myself getting through a lot of Dettol otherwise... thespaceinvader posted:Nope, current UK recommendation is dettol after they changed the formula on Fairy Power Spray IIRC. Don't dilute it at all, keep it in a well0sealed glass container, wear gloves when you're scrubbing, scrub and rinse well.  Do NOT dilute Dettol you intend to use for stripping with water.Hell, make sure that when you scrub the last bits of paint off the mini, you do it in the dettol - basically the only thing you want to touch water is an otherwise clean mini with no paint remaining that you just rinse the dettol off of. Dettol plus water plus acrylic paint congeals into an unholy sticky messy union between old chewing gum and something that dribbles from Nurgle's scrotum. It'll clog up whatever brush you use to scrub the mini, stick to your fingers, stick to the sink, plug up minor decals on the mini itself.. Don't. Just.. Don't. Also, you'll never be rid of the smell. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 15:07
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Drake_263 posted:Also, you'll never be rid of the smell. the smell is the main reason to not use Dettol. I'll try clean, white and meth spirits in a bit, I have loads of minis I can strip. e: have been soaking some fully painted Eldar in white spirit, clean spirit and methylated spirit for 10 minutes, the winner so far is meth spirits/denatured alcohol. I did a quick test with some styrene sprue first and no danger so far to the plastic, so there's 1 mini each in the 3 different liquids. e2: short answer - meth spirits/denatured alcohol wins hands down if you're short on time, clean spirit works pretty well if you have time to soak it overnight. here's the experiment:  The suspects of the experiment  Ready for dunking - the models are secondhand Eldar models bought from another goon. They're fully painted, not sure if they are varnished.  Dunked and waiting time checks.  after 10 minutes: white spirit Every model was given a gentle scrub with a synthetic hair paint brush  after 10 minutes: clean spirit  after 10 minutes: meth spirits/denatured alcohol  after 25 minutes: white spirit had eaten through the polystyrene cup and leaked out! plus it's flammable, is toxic and shouldn't be breathed in  after 25 minutes: clean spirit had softened the paint enough to enable the brush to shift a little paint  after 25 minutes: meth spirits/denatured alcohol allowed the soft brush to completely remove the paint over 95% of the model So the end result is meth spirits/denatured alcohol wins, hands down, if you have only half an hour or so. The downsides of it are that it IS flammable (it's sold as fondue pot fuel, and backpackers use it for stove fuel as well), and it's toxic as well, so don't breathe it in. Clean spirit is odorless, non-toxic & non-flammable but works much slower (as today's non-toxic stuff tends to do), so I'll leave a fresh model in clean spirit overnight and see how it goes. I think it'll work really well. PVA glue used on the base will probably soften enough that a sculpting tool will loosen it, I was able to lift some of the basing material easily once I could get a little bit shifted. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 15:12
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krushgroove posted:[Really cool, detailed I've tried mineral spirits in the past since they're the "classic" solution for cleaning brushes or removing paint, had no luck with it. Used to use Dot-40 brake fluid but contact with that causes nerve damage, (when I work on cars I get a weird tingle in my fingertips if I touch brake fluid now) so I stick with Simple Green or Purple Power. Actually, I still haven't tried Purple Power, I can dunk an old Dark Eldar mini and report back.
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Jul 5, 2015 18:14
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Yeah I think the 'YMMV' warning is in full effect here, because varnishes and primer will be a big big variable. Also I'm assuming these are painted in acrylics, no idea how this will work for anything else, but I don't bother mentioning that because acrylics are what most people use (well, and oils for some things for a few people).
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Jul 5, 2015 18:20
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Thanks for testing those out Krushgroove. I've got an ancient bottle of methylated spirits that I'll probably now use for future salvage operations. It still reeks, but at least the smell won't linger for all eternity like Dettol's does.Razzled posted:How the gently caress... I will never understand how to get faces to look like that I don't have any great insights I'm afraid. Grab a brush with a decent point, thin the hell out of the paints and take it slow. Brace your hands against each other to help cancel out the shakes (hence the 2L coke cap - it makes it easy to hang onto the mini at the same time). Eyes are a pain no matter what - that's probably the best I've ever managed and he's still a bit  It helps that the Infinity sculpts are really, really good (cheesecake factor aside). Not having to guess where to place highlights and shades makes life much easier.
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Jul 5, 2015 18:24
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Krushgroove, glad to see you were able to strip those well! Those were my old Dire Avengers  Especially glad that you were able to remove that lovely rock base!
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Jul 5, 2015 18:27
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Boon posted:Krushgroove, glad to see you were able to strip those well! Those were my old Dire Avengers Well I wanted to make sure the models looked great before dunking them  didn't want to use my usual ebay finds!I've left one more model in clean spirits for an hour and a quarter now, and the paint isn't shifting any more than a half-hour soak did. I'll leave it in overnight and report back. I think I'd rather use clean spirits if possible, just for the odorless *and* biodegradable factor alone (the smell of the white spirit is still all over, and my paper painting pad that it leaked onto is right next to a window) but you just can't beat the denatured alcohol for speed. I'm sure it's also cheaper than brake fluid.
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Jul 5, 2015 18:48
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For what it's worth, I've had similar results with 90% isopropyl alcohol as you did with denatured alcohol. It took longer, probably 2 hours, but I could scrub most of the paint off pretty easily after that.
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Jul 5, 2015 19:07
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a complimentary/contrasting colour for tan/khaki? I'll probably be using GW's Zandri Dust for the tan. It's for my desert Tau that I was originally going to do as Farsight Enclaves, but I want to get the new FW super suit when it comes out, and I don't think it fits Farsight thematically. And with rumours of new crisis sculpts that I'll probably pick up, I thought I'd stop painting my remaining Tau as Farsight and go for a different scheme, while still sticking to my desert basing theme.
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Jul 5, 2015 20:00
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Thanks Krushgroove, that's a really useful post. I made several mistakes with my first stripping attempt: 1) I tried to do multiple in a wideish tupperware box - this meant that the Dettol didn't get very high before running out. 2) I used Dettol, so everything stinks I'm going to get methylated spirits and some smaller tupperware tomorrow.
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Jul 5, 2015 20:18
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ijyt posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a complimentary/contrasting colour for tan/khaki? I'll probably be using GW's Zandri Dust for the tan. Check out some Google image searches for British tank camo in North Africa. They used a light blue contrast for the khaki. 
Dirt Worshipper fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 20:26
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Dirt Worshipper posted:Check out some Google image searches for British tank camo in North Africa. They used a light blue contrast for the khaki. I did one of these in 1:35 scale about 5/6 years ago if it's any help. 
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Jul 5, 2015 21:53
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Slimnoid posted:For what it's worth, I've had similar results with 90% isopropyl alcohol as you did with denatured alcohol. It took longer, probably 2 hours, but I could scrub most of the paint off pretty easily after that. Cool, I've added that to the OP in the stripping section. I've been meaning to get IPA (not the beer) but in the UK you have to get it from a chemist/pharmacy. Meth spirits are easier to find in DIY shops. Milotic posted:Thanks Krushgroove, that's a really useful post. I made several mistakes with my first stripping attempt: Cool, glad to help! Your experience with the container gave me something to put into the OP as well.
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Jul 5, 2015 22:13
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Regardless of the actual fluid you use, there's a neat trick to the container that can make thinghs so much easier; use a double container. That is, you take two plastic tubs or whatever you use. One you drill little holes into the bottom of and put that one inside the intact one - make sure they're the kind that stack neatly and tightly. Then you put your minis in, pour in the fluid, slap a lid on the top container. The idea is that when they're done soaking, you can just open the lid and slowly lift the top container and strain out the fluid into the bottom container - no need to dig through a mess of dettol/alcohol/superclean/whatever with your fingers, looking for loose bitz. Also makes it easier to recycle the fluid - most agents you'd use you can get two or three rounds out of the same tub of fluid before it's unusable.
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Jul 5, 2015 22:33
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Took a pick of my oath WIP to get a close look, figured I'd throw it up. Do the shields look okay? Thinking maybe some of the rust wash? E: Gah, totally forgot I was going to put some transfers on a few. Bah. PyroDwarf fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Jul 6, 2015 |
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Jul 6, 2015 11:13
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    Getting further along on Demogorgon. Skin's pretty well highlighted at this point. I tried to give the scaly and less scaly green parts slightly different shades of green. May try another glaze of an ink, maybe, to make the difference more noticeable. I've started on the belt, adding a bit of a darker shade along the lower part of it. I'll add in some lighter tan and maybe a little bit of off-white to make it look more weathered on the edges. The tentacles need more shading. My attempts to use lighter purples didn't come out so well. It was suggested I go with pink, so I'll try that tomorrow. After that, it'll be shading the loincloth, the yellow of his cheeks, and the interior of his mouth. Then some touch-ups, and he should be pretty much done and ready for basing.
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Jul 6, 2015 11:27
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I have a question for you guys - how do you know something is authentic Forge World stuff? Answer:  No self-respecting Chinese recaster would waste this much resin.
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Jul 6, 2015 13:43
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They're really useful too
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Jul 6, 2015 14:55
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krushgroove posted:
Thanks, that's very thorough and informative. Do you think an ultrasonic cleaner would help?
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Jul 6, 2015 15:10
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Possibly...I have one but the basket and surround are plastic, I'll have to do a test to see if the clean spirit reacts with it (probably not is my guess) and then see if it cleans it any quicker. I don't think it would be required at all for the isopropyl alcohol or meth spirit because it reacts so fast already. Maybe after a soak a few minutes in the machine would help loosen all the paint, though.
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Jul 6, 2015 15:24
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ijyt posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a complimentary/contrasting colour for tan/khaki? I'll probably be using GW's Zandri Dust for the tan. Dirt Worshipper posted:Check out some Google image searches for British tank camo in North Africa. They used a light blue contrast for the khaki. desert skyline camouflage.  
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Jul 6, 2015 16:06
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krushgroove posted:Possibly...I have one but the basket and surround are plastic, I'll have to do a test to see if the clean spirit reacts with it (probably not is my guess) and then see if it cleans it any quicker. I don't think it would be required at all for the isopropyl alcohol or meth spirit because it reacts so fast already. Maybe after a soak a few minutes in the machine would help loosen all the paint, though. My guess is that it won't do anything that scrubbing wouldn't, just a faster and with less mess (and probably more prone to free paint residue from details).
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Jul 6, 2015 16:34
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HardHead posted:desert skyline camouflage. So horizon NMM is canon. Weird.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:01
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Could use some tips. I bought some metal heads to use on my marines, and the drat things just will not prime properly. I've tried the GW primer-in-a-pot, but the stuff starts peeling off after the second layer of paint no matter what I do. It might be dirty, but the thing is so small I'm worried it'll fall down the drain when I try to clean it off. How should I handle that, and is there a good way to hold a metal head in place for spray priming?
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Jul 6, 2015 17:19
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An Angry Bug posted:Could use some tips. I bought some metal heads to use on my marines, and the drat things just will not prime properly. I've tried the GW primer-in-a-pot, but the stuff starts peeling off after the second layer of paint no matter what I do. It might be dirty, but the thing is so small I'm worried it'll fall down the drain when I try to clean it off. How should I handle that, and is there a good way to hold a metal head in place for spray priming? Wash the pieces in warm soapy water, the release agent from the molds might still be on there. Just put them in a little tupperware container over the sink (put the drain plug in if you want) and scrub them a little bit. You should use spray primer though; Imperial Primer or whatever their bottled "primer" is called is absolute poo poo. It's barely thicker than a wash. If you really want to paint the heads separately, drill a hole in them and lightly glue them to some paperclips that you've stuck into cork or something and paint them separately that way
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Jul 6, 2015 17:22
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Good to know I didn't just get bad pots of it. Now that I think about it, the stuff hasn't worked any of the times I used it. Time to toss it and get drilling, then.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:25
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SRM posted:Wash the pieces in warm soapy water, the release agent from the molds might still be on there. Just put them in a little tupperware container over the sink (put the drain plug in if you want) and scrub them a little bit. You should use spray primer though; Imperial Primer or whatever their bottled "primer" is called is absolute poo poo. It's barely thicker than a wash. If you really want to paint the heads separately, drill a hole in them and lightly glue them to some paperclips that you've stuck into cork or something and paint them separately that way If it's really small, you could always buy a drain plug that is a mesh material (although they're a bitch to clean if you get something like cheese in them)
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Jul 6, 2015 17:25
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An Angry Bug posted:Could use some tips. I bought some metal heads to use on my marines, and the drat things just will not prime properly. I've tried the GW primer-in-a-pot, but the stuff starts peeling off after the second layer of paint no matter what I do. It might be dirty, but the thing is so small I'm worried it'll fall down the drain when I try to clean it off. How should I handle that, and is there a good way to hold a metal head in place for spray priming? Ouch. I've never had paint peel like that but I have had gloss paint that never, ever dries out. Some people ran into mold-release compound that caused paint to peel off, once you scrub the models you should be all set. Your sink doesn't have a mechanical drain stopper? Plug the drain with the lever, plug it with a rubber stopper, whatever, just eliminate the hazard and go to work. Do it in a bucket if need be. As far as primers go I have never brushed-on primer except as a gag to show people how good Foundation Paints were when they came out. Spray 4 lyfe, and don't use Rustoleum (well, with some exceptions, I"m using a Rustoleum flat/matte spray right now and it hasn't done me dirty). Depending on your region, if you can get Meijer generic acrylic go for it, it's cheap and works fine. I have had multiple brands that had hosed-up batches that damaged the plastic, since you're spraying metal there's no risk of that.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:31
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I just use the Army Painter colorerd primers, because I'm a lazy shitwad and it gets the basecoating out of the way.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:36
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Post 9-11 User posted:As far as primers go I have never brushed-on primer except as a gag to show people how good Foundation Paints were when they came out. Spray 4 lyfe, and don't use Rustoleum (well, with some exceptions, I"m using a Rustoleum flat/matte spray right now and it hasn't done me dirty). Depending on your region, if you can get Meijer generic acrylic go for it, it's cheap and works fine. I have had multiple brands that had hosed-up batches that damaged the plastic, since you're spraying metal there's no risk of that. I just use Krylon myself, but I also check the can to see what it bonds to. I did not know Meijer had a generic spraypaint, then again I'm mostly ever there to buy groceries, and rarely venture to other parts of the store.
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Jul 6, 2015 17:38
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ANAmal.net posted:I just use the Army Painter colorerd primers, because I'm a lazy shitwad and it gets the basecoating out of the way.
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Jul 6, 2015 18:02
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SRM posted:I'm cooling on them a little, since their Crystal Blue chips and peels off everything and a bunch of my Ultras are all beat up even though they're drowned in varnish. I've started using it over white primer and so far so good. You talking about the retro metal ones? I've only tried the stuff on plastic, but it's been fine so far. I'll have to keep that in mind though, that sucks.
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Jul 6, 2015 18:18
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SRM posted:I'm cooling on them a little, since their Crystal Blue chips and peels off everything and a bunch of my Ultras are all beat up even though they're drowned in varnish. I've started using it over white primer and so far so good. Try Montana Universal Primer. It's for graffiti and spray paint art and it goes on super thin but makes the layers of paint you put on after it stick much better. I don't usually use it for minis but I used to use it when making distressed furniture and painting custom LARP weapons and it works real good. I've also used their Silverchrome paint and it's the real deal when it comes to doing silver base coats. Also Gesso. I know a lot of people hate it, but I honestly think it' amazing, especially if you work with metal surfaces. Recently I've been reading a lot about prep work for minis and discovered a lot of traditional modellers paint their minis with thinned down greenstuff, milliput or plastic surfacer to smooth them out and Gesso does a similar job. Basically though, if I had to name two products that are straight up amazing that more miniatures painters need to be using it's Montana gold and Golden High Flow Transparent Acrylics (basically some of the best washes you can buy and they are cheaaaaaap).
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Jul 6, 2015 18:56
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Recently I've been reading a lot about prep work for minis and discovered a lot of traditional modellers paint their minis with thinned down greenstuff, milliput or plastic surfacer to smooth them out and Gesso does a similar job.
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Jul 6, 2015 19:04
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