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The RECAPITATOR posted:Ok... so right now I have my motor which runs at 1725 RPM (close enough). I was half asleep and on my phone when I replied and didn't realize I'd left out pretty much everything I had meant to post. But! The skinny is, 6000 sfm~ is optimal for steel for most sand paper types. (you can certainly go as high as 12000sfm with zirconia or silicon carbide.) If you want to use the same sander for wood, you need to drop the speeds down to 1500~ sfm. The HP of your motor will contribute greatly to the SFM at point of contact depending on the pressure you are applying at the time. A 1/4HP will slow down considerably more than a 1HP motor. Just to iterate in case people aren't certain how we're coming up with the speeds for the belts, the formula is: Spindle RPM * Spindle Diameter * 0.261 = Surface Feet / Minute (0.261 is derive from π/12 and truncated to 3 significant digits.)
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Jun 16, 2015 04:56
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Note to self: 5.5/2!= 2.25. RIP flight hardware. At least it is cheap to replace.
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Jun 16, 2015 05:13
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Bad Munki posted:I got a killer deal on a practically brand-new lincoln arc welder this weekend, guy down the street passed away a little while back and his super-well-stocked shop is getting cleaned out. Got a bunch of extra clamps and extension wires with it, too, I didn't even see them but the lady running the thing was just like "Hey you want these too?" so into the truck they went. Nah dude stick is the universal language of welding, find some angle or plate and have at it. Number one, of course, safety. Leather gloves & helmet with shade 10 or better glass. Also remember not to pick stuff up, it's still hot after it stops glowing. Safety glasses under helmet, you do not want to chip hot slag into your opticals and that poo poo flies ERRWHERE. Surface prep matters. Wire brush the poo poo out of everything. As for rod selection, 3/32 and 1/8 6011 is about as versatile as it gets. If your budget allows and you want to try out something with a different feel, I had a lot of trouble starting arcs consistently and getting good beads until I tried 7018. It was much more forgiving, and then things were easier when I went back to 6011. Chapter 7 has plenty of juicy, delicious detail. http://www.mckaymarine.com.au/Downloads/Navy%20Welding%20Manual.pdf shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jun 16, 2015 |
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Jun 16, 2015 07:05
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Oh also, there was a bin full of welding rod, am I going to hate myself trying to use it just starting off if it's not in tip-top shape? I gave them $6 for it, and when I got home, it weighed in at 65 pounds. I figure even if a lot of it is crap, it's still probably a good deal. There were some boxes of the stuff that hadn't even been opened, i.e. were still in their exterior shrink wrap.   I haven't picked through to see what I have, but I'm hoping it'll at least suffice for getting started. As for safety gear, I'm not even touching the thing until I have all that in hand. I have a leather apron, laceless leather shoes, and gloves/mask on the way. Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.
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Jun 16, 2015 14:21
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Get that rod in plastic NOW. If you live anywhere humid the flux picks up moisture and makes it splatter everywhere. Also, that looks like a perfect bin full of crap to start leaning on. Start watching youtube videos to get an idea of what you'll be looking for in the puddle, etc.
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Jun 16, 2015 15:09
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Random Number posted:Note to self: 5.5/2!= 2.25. RIP flight hardware. At least it is cheap to replace. Think of it as an increase in dV. 
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Jun 16, 2015 15:11
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You can bake the rods to get the moisture out though, if you don't know how long it's been opened it's recommended.
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Jun 16, 2015 17:57
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I definitely don't, I'm sure some of it's been sitting out for a while. How hot/how long? For now, I've got it in the dungeon in my basement where I run a dehumidifier, keeps it pretty dry in there, certainly drier than anywhere else in the house.
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Jun 16, 2015 18:07
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I don't know where else to post this, but I was watching a video on knifemaking and It says what you think it says.
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Jun 16, 2015 22:57
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Bad Munki posted:I definitely don't, I'm sure some of it's been sitting out for a while. How hot/how long? For now, I've got it in the dungeon in my basement where I run a dehumidifier, keeps it pretty dry in there, certainly drier than anywhere else in the house. 2 hours at 190F~ in the oven will bake it out if you do it in 10lb batches. A DIY "rod oven" is basically a box with a 100 watt incandescent light bulb always on inside. You can use old refrigerators or freezers if you just bore a hole for the cord and mount in a light fixture. Check the actual rods tho. Some rods don't care about moisture at all (60**, AT11-C, 50**). 7*** definitely need to be baked, as do anything labeled "Rocket weld" or "Superweld" that don't have any other identifiable markings. Those are nickle alloy rods and the flux tends to be water magnets. There's a funky blue welding rod on the market that has something like an LD in the name (I can't actually remember for some reason) that not only don't care about water, you can bend them in arcs and still lay a pretty bead with them. I've done a little welding with them submerged in water to demonstrate them.
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Jun 16, 2015 22:59
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Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll pick through the bin tonight and see what I have.
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Jun 17, 2015 00:02
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Trabant posted:I don't know where else to post this, but I was watching a video on knifemaking and In a metalworking shop basically everything is a blackboard as far as the soapstone's concerned, so, yeah. Peep what snuck into some pictures I took in the forge on the face of my anvil: 
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Jun 17, 2015 01:48
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I'd like to interrupt sandingchat and anal-insertionchat for just a moment if I may. Today marks this thread's seventh birthday. Seven years of continuous metalwork fun. Learning to weld, repouse, cut, shear, grind, sand, file, machine, solder, braze, temper, forge and everything else. We've had our ups and  , triumphs and setbacks. Watched people go from rank amateurs to pros, or just stay as tinkerers like me.All of that and yet still Ambrose hasn't given me that sheet metal section for the op. Let's keep it going folks, I love these forums. 
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Jun 18, 2015 04:08
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Anybody else have a wall of shame?
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Jun 18, 2015 14:26
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I just leave my garbage outside until it rusts back into the earth.
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Jun 18, 2015 18:15
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Jun 18, 2015 18:53
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Every month or so I open that text file and go "ehhhnnnnnnnhhhhh" at the task of reworking the scattered ramblings I have so far and get distracted and do something else. But every time I get shamed I add at least a couple paragraphs so have faith and hold fast
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Jun 18, 2015 18:56
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To celebrate the anniversary, here's a photo I took today. This is from a bunch of jr high girls taking metalworking classes, and this shot in particular came out great.
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Jun 18, 2015 19:26
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I want the matchless and Indian logos. What's wrong with them?
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Jun 18, 2015 20:10
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7 years of metal is a long thread on SA.Pagan posted:To celebrate the anniversary, here's a photo I took today. This is from a bunch of jr high girls taking metalworking classes, and this shot in particular came out great. This owns Cakefool posted:I want the matchless and Indian logos. What's wrong with them? Matchless has a lot of pieces that are not fully cut out. Haven't had time to go back and get them out by hand. The Indian logo has some places where the plasma cutter blew out or sat too long while piercing. Incorrect settings on my part 
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Jun 18, 2015 20:34
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Pagan posted:To celebrate the anniversary, here's a photo I took today. This is from a bunch of jr high girls taking metalworking classes, and this shot in particular came out great. Do you have this in 1680x1050 or bigger? That's a fantastic photo.
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Jun 18, 2015 20:51
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Every month or so I open that text file and go "ehhhnnnnnnnhhhhh" at the task of reworking the scattered ramblings I have so far and get distracted and do something else. But every time I get shamed I add at least a couple paragraphs so have faith and hold fast Then I shall continue to publicly shame on a semi -quarterly schedule. I'm available to other goons for this service at a nominal fee.
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Jun 18, 2015 22:36
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Finally. Finally my labours are done and i may rest 
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Jun 22, 2015 18:38
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Do you get that effect with the jump rings just by the way you sized them? That must have taken quite a while to solder.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:42
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That entire piece is 100% cold connections, I only touched a flame to the main plate once to anneal it between repousse courses. What 'effect' do you mean, the spiral? It's a pretty straightforward decorative maille weave, you get the spiral by putting rings through two previous rings and twisting the new ring in a chosen direction and repeating. It'll actually 'unravel' if it's not a closed loop, which is why there's no clasp.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Finally. Finally my labours are done and i may rest Perfect in every way.
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Jun 23, 2015 15:00
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http://imgur.com/a/HlmMK Here's a buildlog for the chain. Fill yer boots with progress pics.
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Jun 24, 2015 22:02
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drat fine work Ambrose. How long do you think it took them to do the war rig? There are a shitload of em up there, otoh, they may have stamped em, I don't know enough about sheetwork to know.
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Jun 25, 2015 01:06
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Ambrose Burnside posted:http://imgur.com/a/HlmMK That's awesome man, good write up.
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Jun 26, 2015 20:07
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CBJamo posted:drat fine work Ambrose. How long do you think it took them to do the war rig? There are a shitload of em up there, otoh, they may have stamped em, I don't know enough about sheetwork to know. Somebody on hiss Reddit said it's probably just vaccuum-formed plastic. RIP. It isn't legit either way, the skull has identical flaws and divots in each symbol, so (if it were made of metal) it'd probably just be embossed in really thin sheet with one big machined stamp on rubber/urethane and then backfilled with foam so it won't collapse.
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Jun 26, 2015 21:27
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Ambrose Burnside posted:http://imgur.com/a/HlmMK Fantastic work. My only question - where do you get the pine pitch? Unrelated question - I've got a knife blank that I've hand forged from a bar, and I'm wondering how to best grind the bevels. I can do a decent job by hand, but it's far from perfect. I have a belt sander (tabletop, not a hand held tool) that I've been using. Is there a tool or trick to help get even bevels on both sides?
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Jul 1, 2015 18:59
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I don't have any jigs to help you with that pagan, but tell try and take a video to show you how I do it. Basically you brace your hand on the bench and try to find the bevel in one stroke. I use my other hand to support my work. Whenever possible my fingertips are touching the material and on the other side the material is making contact with the belt. Obviously I dip my knife in water often. And I probably can't support the top of my knife because it gets hot too quickly.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:28
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I got my pitch from the lady who runs A Copper Rose Metal Art, and sells a medium green pitch from chasers-pitch.com. It's the workhorse medium green Rio Grande used to carry until she went her own way. Northwest Pitchworks does green pitch that is supposedly very similar but come in soft through hard grades. Rio Grande now carries German red and black oil pitches; I've worked with the red pitch and it's good stuff, I probably like it a little bit more than my medium green 'cause it's a little harder and is a lot harder to overheat (the green stuff starts bubbling and by extension boiling off some of its components pretty easily, red doesn't do that until it's about to actually catch fire). I've never worked with old-fashioned petropitch but supposedly it's very hard and also unpleasantly noxious to do much work with. I've heard whisperings of special Japanese formulations that cost a fortune to import but I don't know much more than that they're well-tailored to the repousse styles and tools/techniques predominant there. Some recipes I found: 1. 6 parts chaser's pitch [ambrose: i think this is an error and should read pine pitch/rosin], 8 parts plaster of Paris or brick dust, 1 part linseed oil or tallow. Source: Metalworking Techniques for Craftsmen by Oppi Untracht. 2. 4 parts roofing tar (the kind roofers melt in tar kettles), 3 parts pumice powder, 1 part turpentine, 1 part linseed oil. Melt tar in pan, stir in turps, add pumice. Let a small amount cool and adjust amount of linseed oil to get desired consistency. Source: My own recipe. 3. Equal parts of beeswax and plaster of Paris. This is good for very thin, fully annealed non-ferrous metal worked shallowly. Again, my recipe. and a recipe for a very stiff japanese black pine pitch: Pine Rosin Pitch mixture: Matsu-yani 1 Kg finely ground fire clay or Plaster of Paris 750 grams of Pine Rosin 50 ml of vegetable oil 1 teaspoon of charcoal powder. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jul 2, 2015 |
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Jul 2, 2015 02:09
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Old fashioned pitch: 4 cups clarified pine pitch (sap that leaks from pine trees, heated at a low heat in a strainer to remove bus that aren't pure pitch) 2 cups powdered hardwood charcoal 1.5 cups very well ground vegetable matter (dried grass or ground rabbit poo poo work very well) Mix and stir with a sick until everything is evenly coated on the stick. Avoid a direct open flame, poo poo is really flammable. Probably makes a better glue for knife handles than for doing repoussé but 
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Jul 3, 2015 15:48
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So at my new internship we use Bondo as a fixture for cutting flight grade parts and that blows my mind. It takes a bit of indicating but if you can't clamp and you don't use much cutting pressure v0v. I just wanted to share that because it is the greatest mix of machinist "yeah gently caress it, it should work" with engineering that I've ever seen.
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Jul 4, 2015 06:16
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcbTXlMSCwk This is pretty amazing. Building a massive steam engine. Filmed in 1928. Check out that power hammer they use to forge the drive rods! and all those sweet lathes.
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Jul 5, 2015 15:34
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Random Number posted:So at my new internship we use Bondo as a fixture for cutting flight grade parts and that blows my mind. It takes a bit of indicating but if you can't clamp and you don't use much cutting pressure v0v. There was a great article in Modern Machine Shop a few months ago profiling a shop that's started using UV-cure dental filling material to make thin-piece grinding setups, I'll try and find it in a bit. E: http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/shop-finds-fixturing-solution-for-flexing-parts shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jul 5, 2015 |
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Jul 5, 2015 19:41
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Random Number posted:So at my new internship we use Bondo as a fixture for cutting flight grade parts and that blows my mind. It takes a bit of indicating but if you can't clamp and you don't use much cutting pressure v0v. Cascade? Haha. My old work used to do that. It was great at dampening vibration in best-fit castings and came off really easy (if the parts were taped first).
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Jul 5, 2015 21:50
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I have been looking at the Arc Pig http://www.arcpig.com/ I have access to an older lincoln AC/DC 225 (tombstone). With a tig torch, could I tig weld aluminum with this set up with the machine on AC?
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Jul 8, 2015 04:37
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I have been looking at the Arc Pig http://www.arcpig.com/ I have access to an older lincoln AC/DC 225 (tombstone). With a tig torch, could I tig weld aluminum with this set up with the machine on AC? I've never heard of an arc pig before, but the video looks neat. Looks like it turns a cheapo welder into a mock high end Miller or LE. If you get one, trip report it.
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Jul 8, 2015 07:07
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