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So uhhh, you wouldn't happen to need (probably) lovely air-holding tires for the 5 ton, would you? It looks like he's got 7 of these. This is kind of a weird sight 'round here, and you were the first person I thought of who may be interested...
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Jul 8, 2015 04:11
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kastein posted:Yes, this is all screamingly ghetto ... you do realize most of us have seen your house, right? We're not really shocked by anything you do unless you do something that endangers others.
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Jul 8, 2015 04:57
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Hey. The way it is now might be ghetto, and the way I undo the old mess, and the way I get to building something new might not be the OSHA approved way but I'll be damned if the end product is unsafe. Black88GTA - thanks for the heads up, those are deuce tires and a bit undersized for my truck though. What I am looking for right now is wheels to put the new tires on, but the going price is well over what I can justify for fun project stuff at the moment.
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Jul 8, 2015 12:41
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Kastein - thanks again for hauling down to CT to help me out the other weekend. It's possibly not the worst thing to happen since breaking down brought attention to my slowly disintegrating steering joints and the fact that my alternator bracket was missing the support plate.
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Jul 8, 2015 13:06
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That power steering line doesnt look to hot either.
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Jul 8, 2015 14:09
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More like powder steering, amirite? That thing is chooched.
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Jul 8, 2015 14:18
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No worries, if I'm in the area I can't really leave someone stranded. And yeah that steering system was turbofucked. The steering column was hanging from the dash by a single random SAE thread spun about 3 turns onto one of the (metric) mounting studs when it should have had two flanged staked M10 nuts holding it up, the pinch bolt on that end of the intermediate shaft was 1-2 turns loose, and that ujoint was rapidly disintegrating. At least the donor at the yard still had all the parts you needed on it.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:30
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Jeep is now back on all four wheels, battery is in, ride is now leveled due to 2" BDS front coils I threw in: Remaining to do before it will drive: - figure out why rear brake line union is trickling brake fluid and fix it - empty bed of spare parts and junk - fix transmission control system, it seems to be dead, resulting in no TQ lockup, manual shifting, and no second gear. Experience tells me this is because the TCU is either completely dead, or has no power. Worstcase I'll build a manumatic controller for it, gently caress it, it's getting torn out soon anyways. - install new exhaust parts, or steal the cherry bomb and auto-gutted cat off the white MJ since it's just a glorified engine hoist now anyways - fix driver door latch - it now works, I don't know why. Going to pointedly ignore this problem until it reoccurs. - fix front headlight wiring - torque all suspension bolts to spec - fix the drat hood linkage (again, steal parts off the XJ or white MJ) - alignment, if I decide I care about the $10 set of mildly dry rotted tires longevity - holy poo poo buy new lug nuts jesus gently caress (discovered that all of them are those gross chrome tin cap style two piece ones Jeep loved so much, and most of them are so hosed I had to hammer a four way on to have even the slightest chance of turning them.)
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Jul 10, 2015 00:08
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You being you I would guess you've tested the solenoids in the tranny. Just throwing it out there since I was having similar symptoms previously and two tested open circuit.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:59
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kastein posted:- holy poo poo buy new lug nuts jesus gently caress (discovered that all of them are those gross chrome tin cap style two piece ones Jeep loved so much, and most of them are so hosed I had to hammer a four way on to have even the slightest chance of turning them.)
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Jul 10, 2015 04:30
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angryrobots posted:Oh hell my mj had those too...I assumed as lovely as they were, they HAD to be aftermarket crap Nope. We had to replace dozens of sets of Mopar truck lugnuts the 2 years I was at Sears. Ford used them too, but they last a good deal longer, and the underlying steel nut is still a standard 19mm so you're at least able to get them off and on easily. The mopar ones are garbage. Gimme anodized steel any day. E: Or zinc-plated or whatever, the gold-toned ones a lot of newer trucks have.
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Jul 10, 2015 06:50
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kastein posted:Jeep is now back on all four wheels, battery is in, ride is now leveled due to 2" BDS front coils I threw in: Drop tailgate and 
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Jul 10, 2015 07:40
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Timmy Cruise posted:You being you I would guess you've tested the solenoids in the tranny. Just throwing it out there since I was having similar symptoms previously and two tested open circuit. Haven't bothered yet. Since the symptoms match up exactly with how an AW4 acts if you disconnect the TCU (first diag step - tells you right off if you are dealing with an electrical problem or a mechanical one - I didn't suggest it on yours since IIRC you have a toyota A340, which has a unified PCM rather than an ECU/TCU pair) I am betting it is disconnected or the inline fuse only renix jeeps have is blown. If it starts shifting, but wrong gears/pattern, or shifts but missing lockup, or something similar, I will definitely suspect solenoids. I hate those lugnuts so bad. They are good for two things, jamming the chrome cap in your lug wrench so it won't fit the other four lugs anymore, and swelling with rust till it won't fit on in the first place.
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Jul 10, 2015 12:15
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I have these chrome as gently caress keyed lugnuts from Discount Tire that seem to be  .How can you gently caress up lugnuts so powerfully?
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Jul 10, 2015 14:43
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Will a 242 transfer case from a 96 ZJ bolt into a 99 XJ? Edit: I thought I was in the Jeep thread.
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Jul 10, 2015 15:20
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I have no idea but they did, and then they stuck with it for a good 25 years or so. Terrible. I usually run these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-7002 About the cheapest one piece closed end 1/2-20 RH lugnuts you can find on summit. Amusingly, qty100 lugnuts are about 20% more expensive per unit than qty5/4 packs. Also, realized the radiator is in tatters, but it appears to be watertight so I'll run on it unless it overheats. e: probably. Make sure there isn't a stupid pilot bushing buried at the very back of the input gear which will keep you from seating the transfer case fully. I doubt there is, I think that was a 93-95 era thing only, but it sucks to find out the hard way. The VSS, rear output shaft, and most other things should be fine. Make sure it has a double cardan style front output yoke not a CV socket of some sort, since the 242 and 231 front yokes won't swap due to differing spline counts on the front output shaft/sprocket. Remember that while the indicator bezel is optional, you need to change the shift gate under it otherwise you'll have ot be extremely careful shifting the transfer case. Unsure if ZJ and XJ shift gates are the same, the bezels aren't AFAIK but grab it anyways because you can probably sell it on ebay even if it won't fit. Double check input gear length as well, you want it to be about the same as yours. If it's longer that's fine, just make sure it'll fit the transmission without colliding with something. Novak Conversions has a huge article on NVG input gear lengths and other strange stuff. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 15:59
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Yeah, I swapped those for cheap but workable generic chromes when I put the new wheels on my XJ too, broke one lug nut getting it off. Terrible.
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Jul 10, 2015 17:57
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I have been putting off buying new lugs for it since I'm pretty sure I need a ton of other stuff from summit, just can't think what. Did put in my $400 order for Justy parts and Forester parts from rockauto, though. I also managed to ham-handedly strip all the threads out of the O2 sensor bung on the Justy's exhaust manifold Saturday night, so it's down for the count. For a variety of reasons the only solution is to either buy a new manifold (dealer NLA, aftermarket never available in the first place, I have a few leads on junkyard ones for $25-35 though) or helicoil the one I have, which will cost $140 in tools. If the junkyards don't come through I guess I'll order the helicoil kit  In completely different news, I finished soldering up the prototypes for a side project I came up with after needing to measure DC current flow well in excess of what my DMM can handle. It's a 600 amp bidirectional ammeter shunt with a CAN bus interface; once I finish writing the firmware I'll be able to log and graph automotive system current draw on basically anything. Hell, 600 amps is way more than most starter motors and winches can draw, so I'll probably test it out by getting a decent idea of how much current my starter motor actually pulls. Behold:  Actually, one of these may find its way into my next MJ build because I really dislike not having a good idea of power consumption and the factory (fairly inaccurate) voltmeter tells you absolutely nothing aside from whether the alternator can almost keep up or not. 600 amp fullscale does significantly reduce the resolution at the bottom end of the scale, but using a different part number for two of the chips can bring my fullscale current down to 50/100/250/500A respectively.
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Jul 16, 2015 05:44
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Man, that looks sweet! You really are a mad scientist! On the just exhaust, you can make a ghetto insert. I think one size spark plug non-fouler has the right threads for an o2 sensor. Drill the manifold so it's a slip fit, and weld it on!
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Jul 16, 2015 10:03
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1) What's EWAF? 2) Can you explain, in layman's terms, how you accomplish measuring 600A? 3) That thing is sweet as hell!
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Jul 16, 2015 11:26
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kastein posted:I have been putting off buying new lugs for it since I'm pretty sure I need a ton of other stuff from summit, just can't think what. Did put in my $400 order for Justy parts and Forester parts from rockauto, though. I also managed to ham-handedly strip all the threads out of the O2 sensor bung on the Justy's exhaust manifold Saturday night, so it's down for the count. For a variety of reasons the only solution is to either buy a new manifold (dealer NLA, aftermarket never available in the first place, I have a few leads on junkyard ones for $25-35 though) or helicoil the one I have, which will cost $140 in tools. If the junkyards don't come through I guess I'll order the helicoil kit Couldn't you drill out and weld on a new nut for the O2 sensor? I'm going to be doing similar to add a O2 sensor to a header that doesn't have a port. Seems like it shouldn't be too bad, worst case pay someone $20 to weld it on. 600 Amps...don't hurt yourself too bad, that's a decent amount of current.
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Jul 16, 2015 11:50
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Oh man we need to try that current sensor on the 56 if you need a test run.
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Jul 16, 2015 11:54
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the welded in insert idea is kinda interesting but I am not trying to weld cast iron on the only manifold I have or can get without junkyarding. Fart Pipe - sure! since it is 6V it probably draws like twice as much current as a 12V system so that would be a great test actually. NitroSpazz - not too worried, it is still a system running less than 24 volts (the electrical limit of some of the devices I used) so unless I soak my hands in saltwater it is pretty safe to barehand everything. The benefits of low voltage systems... Basically it is a current shunt - the black case with the large copper lugs is a part that I found on digikey while looking for something else. It has a series resistance of 0.0001 ohms, which means at 600 amps it has a voltage of 60 millivolts across two terminals that connect to the PCB. So then you just amplify your 0-60mV sense voltage and process it digitally to extract the info you want (true RMS, peak current, average current, running average, it wouldn't even be that hard to add a freq counter) and transmit the info on the CAN bus.
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Jul 16, 2015 12:30
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For the spacer idea, maybe run a die over the outside (assuming you have/can find one that size) and put a nut on it inside the pipe? I have no idea if there's enough metal in the spacer wall for it to work, just spitballing. Might not even seal well enough against the round pipe wall, now I think of it.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:32
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Is there any special reason why you don't make a custom manifold for it? Seems like the best solution in the long run.
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Jul 16, 2015 14:36
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Wrar posted:Is there any special reason why you don't make a custom manifold for it? Seems like the best solution in the long run. Oh believe me, I've considered it. Probably will if neither my manifold nor the $25-35 junkyard ones I am looking at end up being salvageable. That's why I was looking at rawfab a couple days ago, actually. As for fixing the threads in this, there really is no way to do so without either a lot of in depth work or a helicoil/timesert type product due to the geometry and material of the stock manifold. So if I can get a usable JY one for $35 I will, else it's probably either fabricate a manifold myself or blow $140 on a helicoil kit. In other news my new rear struts showed up, so at least it won't bounce away while sitting in the driveway waiting to have its O2 sensor fixed:  Volvoids, be jealous:  As for what EWAF is... nothing yet. Who knows if it ever will be. We'll see. I pulled that straight out of my rear end to put on the prototype boards because there was space on the PCB for it.
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Jul 16, 2015 15:31
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Bring those struts tomorrow and we can slam them on in 2 seconds. Gonna be a lot of moped work happening too, should be a productive day. I actually cleaned up the shop a little too.
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Jul 16, 2015 15:34
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I can't, the Justy is immobile till the sensor fiasco is solved HOPEFULLY getting a manifold at lunch today - if any junkyard listed on car-part would update their loving inventory sometime this decade and/or call me back.
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Jul 16, 2015 16:41
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Oh poo poo yea, Im dumb. Well if you do get the manifold then slam that poo poo in and then we can slam the struts in tomorrow night. One of the mopeds is going to be Aces so itll be hilarious to see how addicted hes gonna get tomorrow anyway.
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Jul 17, 2015 01:46
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Long story short junkyards are run by incompetent, lazy fuckstains and the inventories on car-part are not to be trusted. I called four yards that claimed they had justy manifolds and most said "oh that's probably gone, we inventoried it five years ago" with one saying NINE years ago. Hey assholes stop pissing off your customers by never clearing out poo poo in the db that you crushed, maybe.  One has one but who knows if it is good and they want 65 and I have to wait till saturday for it. Oh well, still gonna go for it. In better news I put the new rear struts in the Justy and holy gently caress what a difference. Can't test drive it obviously but instead of bouncing around like a jack russell terrier when you push the bumper down and release it, it rebounds and stops at ride height like it should. Maybe I won't feel like I am about to die cornering at 5 over the limit anymore. (The worst experience so far was rounding a gradual corner on a state route at 50 in a 55 and crossing a section of washboarding. The rear end end actually walked out on me to the point that I was afraid I was about to roll the drat thing. That is when I started really shopping for struts.)
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Jul 17, 2015 05:13
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Nitrospazzz is onto something. Drill and tap the hole bigger so you can plug it, then weld a nut downstream and install a heated o2 sensor. About the same price as a new manifold but you'll go to closed loop faster and gain a tap!
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Jul 17, 2015 08:42
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I CAN'T DO THAT for a variety of technical reasons. Not your fault dude, but probably 30 loving people have told me that so far and no, I can't, there is no space. I already got dogpiled by a dozen dipshit rednecks telling me every manner of hack fab repair when I posted on facebook looking for a helicoil tap. None of them were very amused when I told them to gently caress off with their bad advise unless they had a helicoil tap of the size requested. None of them had the right tap, either. Bear in mind I am not yelling at you here, that is a good suggestion for 99% of vehicles, but it does not apply to this one and I am going to choke the next person who suggests it. I can only hear advise that happens to be irrelevant for my situation when I note I'm trying to find the materials/tools for the only easy solution so many times before I lose it. 
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Jul 17, 2015 14:55
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Here's an idea of the kind of space I am working with. This is an MPFI justy (not mine, I don't like pondsucker intakes):  This is the only good pic of an old carbureted justy manifold I can find, and I can't find a good pic of an uninstalled MPFI manifold, period:  There are zero MPFI manifolds on ebay right now. The carbed manifold won't even bolt up to my cat, they changed the whole configuration around. There is no extra space anywhere for a different O2 sensor bung. The only locations result in the sensor either getting a really poo poo gas sample, or interfering with something. The snout is maybe 1" above the top of the cat honeycomb as it is, there's no way to move it any further downstream, period. The only real options (other than building my own manifold, which I am considering) are helicoil it, or bore it out larger and braze in a threaded bung. One of these options leaves the other open still (helicoiling it), the other is a fully committed sort of thing, because once I bore it out big enough to braze in another piece, there is no going back. And I only have one manifold, and seemingly can't get another unless the one I'm looking at tomorrow is good. This is why you can't own just one Justy at this point, at least without hoarding parts like a motherfucker. Parts simply don't exist. It's either make your own, or wait weeks/months until one shows up, or (if you get lucky) pay dealer prices for the last one on the shelf anywhere. For example, I own the last NOS factory balance chain guide and the last 3 balance shaft bearings on the entire continent, possibly the entire world. Rear struts cost me $200 shipped from europe because KYB doesn't even bother selling them in the US anymore. An intake tube (hard rubber, strange molded shape that goes over the valve cover, known for becoming brittle and breaking everywhere) is unobtainium, no more exist and all factory ones are varying degrees of brittle. Mine is only cracked and repaired in one spot, that's good. Side mirrors? Haha, surely you jest. Good thing I park mine in two places, work and my own driveway. Fenders? Bumper covers? Any body panels at all? NLA. Period. Junkyard or make your own. Wheels? Better hope someone's parting one out. Tires? You have a dozen choices for 13s, ZERO choices for 12s on tirerack. Everything's cheap on rockauto, but it's because it's on closeout and they aren't ordering more, so shotgun two of everything into your cart. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 15:38
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Jeeps were getting too easy for you - room to work, parts available everywhere, lots of interchange. You're always volunteering to pull parts for people - if you want to check with yards in my area (92109 check in Chula Vista) I'd be willing to go pull a manifold some time. I know you need it ASAP but if you need anything in the future... I'm poo poo at locating parts myself since I've been to two yards in my life, but if you confirm it I can get it and ship it.
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Jul 17, 2015 16:18
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I'd murder a hooker for a set of red front fenders that don't have the rear lower corners rotted off. That's a lot of volume to ship, though. If anyone in a rust free area could just cut like the lowest 12 inches off of that area of a fender (either side, any color, I need both) I'd love them forever though, I can weld it on and it'll look better than it does now. Please don't ruin a set of fenders if they're nice, but if they're wrecked in other spots and that area is salvageable, go for it. There's one in 95205 (Stockton) that looks like a good donor for that, but I'm pretty sure that's a long way from you: http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JF1KA73AXJB715477 Similarly - anything shippable that you need? I am going to at least two yards tomorrow, Amherst Oakham (http://www.amherstoakhamauto.com/) and my usual ghetto you-pull. e: that's 7 loving hours from you  I always forget how big CA is. Oh well, hopefully they still have it in two weeks when I'll be out there for a wedding.Actually - now that I think of it. I'll be in the bay area from around noon on the 29th through the 5th. The 1st I am definitely busy, the rest I am likely wandering. Carry-on to consist of a few sets of clothes and as many tools as I can jam into my suitcase, who's down for some shenanigans and/or drinking? kastein fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 16:26
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Searchtempest returns mixed results, but there are a handful of partouts happening around the country. Maybe you could contact these guys and then enlist the help of a friendly local goon if there is anything worthwhile? '90 4WD in New Hampshire (moose fell on roof ) http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/5094922315.htmlsomewhat clean looking '94 FWD in PA: http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/ptd/5085349062.html '90 in Benson, NC: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ptd/5079222325.html Redmond, WA ( I think I even see your part in the last pic) : http://bend.craigslist.org/pts/5078772822.html
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Jul 17, 2015 20:45
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Ken let me know if you want that New Hampshire one and me and iForge can pick it up on our way to your place Sunday
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Jul 17, 2015 20:53
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'90 is a dual year, IIRC you could get those with carbs or MPFI, so I'd have to make sure it's an MPFI manifold. I'm also 99% sure it's a silver 2 door that I saw on copart a month ago which was bought for $200, showed up on CL a week later with the roof cut off pressure washed out for $750, then disappeared. If the VIN ends in D704958 and the rest of the description fits it is the same car. It almost has to be, how many 3k mile justys are there in new hampshire that hit a moose and have the roof cut off? It's also only 40 minutes from where the auction was held. I'm not 100% it'll work but I'll drop the guy a line shortly and find out if it's MPFI or not. If it is, I might be interested in meeting you guys there... and filling your truck beds with parts to haul back to my place before we fill your trucks with jeep parts  e: Thanks a ton for the heads up Black88GTA, never thought I'd see that car appear on the radar for a third time in two months. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 21:12
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I'm a bit north of Philly, but my gun range is over by Lancaster, so I could build Harrisburg into a trip... next Sunday, if that white one has something you want me to pick up. edit: crowdsource this fucker. Also, I doubt you'll find a BMW E90 with parts I need, so no worries. 
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Jul 18, 2015 02:54
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I guarantee you I will. Whether it would be socially acceptable to remove them is another matter entirely It looks like we are converging on the NH one Sunday but not sure yet. This ought to be interesting.
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Jul 18, 2015 04:19
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