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Thanks also, Hedgehog. Comparing the NEO prices, it looks like it goes for mid $50 on Amazon, $79 at Hobby Lobby, but then there's the perpetual 40% discount, so it makes it roughly the same, and it's $120 at Michael's...  Any recommendations for a decent but not insane F4 Phantom?
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Jul 7, 2015 20:56
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God drat do I hate Michaels. They're nice and convenient and all, but everything there is literally twice the price of anywhere else.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:13
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:God drat do I hate Michaels. They're nice and convenient and all, but everything there is literally twice the price of anywhere else. Yeah you have to wait for them to have a mega sale or a coupon or something and even then you're just paying normal price.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:16
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:God drat do I hate Michaels. They're nice and convenient and all, but everything there is literally twice the price of anywhere else. Yeah, my lady used to work there and even with her discount, it's still more than going to HL. I feel bad though, since I really like supporting my LHS (that my Grandpa and I have been going to since way back in the late 70's for one reason or another), but christ, that's a ton of $$$.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:25
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Michael's almost always offers a 40% off one item coupon every week. Occasionally it's 50% off (usually I think this happens on like holiday weekends from what I've seen) or sometimes like ~25% off your entire order. This doesn't justify their prices, but you should never buy anything there without a coupon.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:33
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Speaking of sales, I just got a postcard from Model Expo. 50% off everything with free shipping over $150 and back orders are included. So what? You say.. They just started carrying the entire line of Vallejo paints. So if you were ever interested in getting that 72 bottle set of Model-air, it's now $150 with free shipping if you add in another item of any price to push the total over 150. Use offer code FIRE5 and its good through July 31st. Their website won't show the correct price until checkout. The Locator fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Jul 8, 2015 |
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Jul 7, 2015 21:37
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Is the free shipping just in the US?
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Jul 7, 2015 21:59
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Baronjutter posted:My wife was looking at the pictures of everyone's setups and saying she really isn't cool with the chords all over. I mean it's not like I can wire it into the wall, but I think the electronics dudes at my Makerspace will be able to help me chain them together in some niceish looking way hopefully with a white chord and then just one going down the wall to a power bar. LED's run such low wattage I love them. An easier alternative to daisy-chaining the lights would be to open your bedroom closet and tell your wife that you really aren't cool with her shoes all over then grab a handful of extension cords and march triumphantly back into your modeling room.
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Jul 8, 2015 01:39
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Baronjutter posted:Is the free shipping just in the US? Yes, lower 48 only I believe.
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Jul 8, 2015 01:47
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SkunkDuster posted:An easier alternative to daisy-chaining the lights would be to open your bedroom closet and tell your wife that you really aren't cool with her shoes all over then grab a handful of extension cords and march triumphantly back into your modeling room.
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Jul 8, 2015 01:49
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SkunkDuster posted:An easier alternative to daisy-chaining the lights would be to open your bedroom closet and tell your wife that you really aren't cool with her shoes all over then grab a handful of extension cords and march triumphantly back into your modeling room. Just knock two holes in the wall, one at light-level and one below at socket level. Don't bother with faceplates or anything, just bare holes. Chaos reigns.
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Jul 8, 2015 02:12
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Just knock two holes in the wall, one at light-level and one below at socket level. Don't bother with faceplates or anything, just bare holes. Chaos reigns. Use your fists to make the holes (after locating the studs).
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Jul 8, 2015 04:42
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I put the wrong code in my post about the Model Expo sale, it's FIRE5, not just FIRE. That's what I get for posting from my phone from memory! I edited the original post also.
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Jul 8, 2015 07:53
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Just knock two holes in the wall, one at light-level and one below at socket level. Don't bother with faceplates or anything, just bare holes. Chaos reigns. Unfortunately, this is an apartment and he doesn't have approval from the owner to make holes in the wall. 
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Jul 8, 2015 13:24
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:God drat do I hate Michaels. They're nice and convenient and all, but everything there is literally twice the price of anywhere else. I live about a mile from this place: http://www.entertrainmentjunction.com/ It's a big old family oriented model train display, which I've never actually looked at, I just go in and get modeling supplies there. Strangely enough though, they do not carry static grass, but have just about everything else I could need 
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Jul 8, 2015 13:30
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Iron Crowned posted:I live about a mile from this place: Sup, West Chester Buddy? Between Entertrainment Junction and the big rear end train display in the Justice League train station we use for a museum, I'm convinced southwest Ohio is intended as some sort of resort for autists.
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Jul 8, 2015 14:28
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Cthulu Carl posted:Sup, West Chester Buddy? I didn't know the Hall of Justice had that, but I also haven't been there. At least it makes sense since it was a major train stop once upon a time. I always find Entertrainment Junction weird though, because it's always packed, and I'd think a standalone train display (especially in such a growing suburb) wouldn't be enough of a draw to keep it's doors open. I'm just glad I can get things like sheets of plastic, and just about any kind of shaped rod I'll ever need in about 15 minutes. Of course if I ever need static grass, I have to haul my rear end all the way to Hobbytown on the other side of Mason 
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Jul 8, 2015 14:39
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Iron Crowned posted:I didn't know the Hall of Justice had that, but I also haven't been there. At least it makes sense since it was a major train stop once upon a time. That Hobbytown is sweet though because the old dudes who run it must have the early stages of Alzheimer's. They constantly have identical items priced radically different. A few years back, I picked up a model of the USS Helena for about $5 while the one right next to it was priced at $15 for no discernable reason.
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Jul 8, 2015 14:53
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The Locator posted:Speaking of sales, I just got a postcard from Model Expo. 50% off everything with free shipping over $150 and back orders are included. Thanks for the heads up on this. Just snagged that model air set 
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Jul 8, 2015 16:40
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Commissar Canuck posted:Thanks for the heads up on this. Just snagged that model air set Good buy, you'll not regret that one.
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Jul 8, 2015 23:21
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What are good starter compressors? I'm looking at getting the Badger Patriot but I don't know what to look for in a compressor.
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Jul 9, 2015 04:05
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Forums Terrorist posted:What are good starter compressors? I'm looking at getting the Badger Patriot but I don't know what to look for in a compressor. I picked up this baby for my Badger Patriot and I absolute love it. http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMP...rush+compressor It's a bit more expensive with the tank, but having to only run the compressor occasionally really makes airbrushing more pleasurable for me. The compressor itself isn't even that loud. It comes with a pressure regulator and water trap as well. You can also find a compressor/tank combo that is very similar to this one at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby.
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Jul 9, 2015 04:16
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I have the Paasche version of that compressor and from what it looks like they're nearly identical. Wouldn't be surprised if they're made in the same Chinese factory and the Paasche one is just painted blue. It works just fine for my purposes. It can sustain a higher PSI than you will ever need with an airbrush and the tank means it isn't running all the time which saves considerably on heat and wear. The oil-less wobble pistons they use will inevitably wear out so the tank lets you get a few more years before that happens and helps keep a steady pressure. Reasonably quiet as well. About as loud as an old refrigerator. I'm pretty happy with it.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:05
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Troll Bridgington posted:I picked up this baby for my Badger Patriot and I absolute love it. I have that same compressor, but without the tank--the version that's packaged with an airbrush. It's really no louder than a regular conversation. I've found the weird, obnoxious whistles you get sometimes when airbrushing concave shapes ares actually a good bit louder. Been very happy. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 05:06
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Sauer posted:I have the Paasche version of that compressor and from what it looks like they're nearly identical. Wouldn't be surprised if they're made in the same Chinese factory and the Paasche one is just painted blue. That is indeed what that is. I have that exact same compressor here in Germany.
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Jul 9, 2015 07:20
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I had that "MASTER" airbrush and compessor system. Within a month the airbrush stopped working no matter how well I cleaned it, and now the compressor's pressure adjustment knob won't turn even after applying a wrench to it, can't get the water trap off either. I managed to paint a couple trains before the whole system basically bricked its self. Made me never want to waste money on an airbrush system again.
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Jul 9, 2015 16:38
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Baronjutter posted:I had that "MASTER" airbrush and compessor system. Within a month the airbrush stopped working no matter how well I cleaned it, and now the compressor's pressure adjustment knob won't turn even after applying a wrench to it, can't get the water trap off either. I managed to paint a couple trains before the whole system basically bricked its self. Made me never want to waste money on an airbrush system again. Well that makes me feel somewhat better about how much money I spent on my Iwata Power Jet Pro. 
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Jul 9, 2015 17:52
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Baronjutter posted:I had that "MASTER" airbrush and compessor system. Within a month the airbrush stopped working no matter how well I cleaned it, and now the compressor's pressure adjustment knob won't turn even after applying a wrench to it, can't get the water trap off either. I managed to paint a couple trains before the whole system basically bricked its self. Made me never want to waste money on an airbrush system again. It's got a two year warranty ...
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Jul 9, 2015 18:01
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Greyhawk posted:It's got a two year warranty ... I only discovered how bad it was a year after I moved. It was sitting in storage for a long time. I think something rusted/corroded in the compressor. The brush though has always been garbage. Worked ok for about my first few uses then got progressively worse and worse. I don't know if it was the paint I was using or I was doing upkeep wrong but I followed all instructions and took the entire thing apart and rubbed it all down with windex. Even so, the place where the paint goes has a rough indistructable layer of paint and gunk and the innards are probably similar. So I'd spend about 20 min setting it up and getting it working to paint a single thing (badly) only to have it jam up about half way through. Then spend another 20 min spraying through water or windex trying to clear it just enough to get any paint out to finish my job, then spend a good 30 min cleaning it and putting it away. Or I could just use a rattle can or a brush and get it done in seconds. I'm not sure airbrushes are for me as it seems insane to spend an hour or so setting up and cleaning every time you want to paint anything and at least 10-20 min every time you want to change colours.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:07
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The Locator posted:Speaking of sales, I just got a postcard from Model Expo. 50% off everything with free shipping over $150 and back orders are included. Holy moly thanks, Yaaay
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Jul 9, 2015 18:50
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Baronjutter posted:Or I could just use a rattle can or a brush and get it done in seconds. I'm not sure airbrushes are for me as it seems insane to spend an hour or so setting up and cleaning every time you want to paint anything and at least 10-20 min every time you want to change colours. Assuming that I have a properly cleaned airbrush to start with, there is pretty much zero setup time. Turn on the compressor, add paint to brush (appropriately thinned, or just thinned in the cup), and spray. Switching colors is pretty easy. I run water through the brush (probably about 4 full cups - I am shooting acrylic) until the water stops getting clouded up by the paint. I make sure to work the action a lot (on/off for the paint flow) while doing this. Once I have it so the water looks clean when I add it and flow a bit, I'll take a rag and clean out any remaining paint spots in the cup, then run another 1/2 cup or so of water through, spraying onto a white paper to make sure it's running clean, and wipe off any tip build-up that's left, and then add the new color. This really only takes a few minutes, and I turn the pressure up a bit while doing it. I use one of these things - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VADIVC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 The only thing I do different when I'm completely done vs. color change, is to pull the needle and make sure it's completely cleaned, and then when I put it back I pull it back so the tip isn't extended to store it so if my clumsy self drops it I don't wreck yet another needle. I use my airbrush a lot as a 'blower' to blow dust, sawdust and shavings off of the model while I'm working on it, so keeping the needle retracted like that just seems to make a lot of sense to me.
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Jul 9, 2015 18:56
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To be fair, the Master airbrush is a royal pain in the rear end to clean. I ended up giving up on mine because of that, and the nozzle itself developing a leak. I might end up fixing it and using it for alclad or something. The Patriot has been so much easier for me to take apart and clean so far.The Locator posted:
This thing also helps a lot. I like to use a combination of water and Windex as a cleaner and it usually destroys any left over paint in the system. I really only take the airbrush apart when I'm done painting for the day.
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Jul 9, 2015 20:04
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The Locator posted:Assuming that I have a properly cleaned airbrush to start with, there is pretty much zero setup time. Turn on the compressor, add paint to brush (appropriately thinned, or just thinned in the cup), and spray. For changing colors, this is kind of overkill. When you want to change your color, dump what's in the cup, then spray out what remains inside the brush. Then put about a quarter of a cup of airbrush cleaner in the cup, swish it around and wipe down the sides of the cup with a q-tip or piece of paper tower. Dump this liquid out too. Put in another quarter cup, swish this around and get any remaining bits of residue, then dump again. Finally about 1/8th of a cup of cleaner, then spray this until it goes clear. This should get everything out of the brush, uses a lot less liquid, and should only take about 45 seconds overall. Water is okay to clean, but actual airbrush cleaner does a phenomenal job, and keeps the needle lubed as well. Storing with the needle retracted is not the best practice either. I guess if you're really prone to bending needles it's a solution, but leaving the needle retracted leaves the nozzle open which could admit dust into the tip. If you have a crown cap, leaving that on when not in use should protect the tip fine.
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Jul 9, 2015 20:55
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I'd always struggle to get the drat thing working, just spraying water. So I'd run windex through and sometimes strip it down and clean the guts. Other times after a while the water would start coming out, but never instantly. Eventually I'd get to the stage where I could add paint. Most of my paint was testors and I used their brand thinner, but I'd sometimes try thinning down craft store paint and spraying that too. I'd have to work the needle back and forth to get any spray, it will only spray when I aggressively move the needle in and out, simply holding the trigger down won't work. So the brush just sort of pulses and spits. Eventually it just stops all together and I go back to the start. Run windex, run water, take it apart if needed. Finally once done I'd always give it a super clean thinking "this time I'm going to clean it so well it will work out of the box next time!" but that was never the case. It really started doing this after just a few uses, then got worse and worse over time. I'd get a new brush but I have no idea if it was me or the brush. Maybe I was cleaning it... wrong? I'd always follow youtube tutorials and various airbrush sites, I got tons of advice before starting. Now I feel the airbrush is a huge embarrassing sunk cost and I don't deserve a good one. I think I "only" blew about $250 on the package.
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Jul 9, 2015 21:04
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Storing with the needle retracted is not the best practice either. I guess if you're really prone to bending needles it's a solution, but leaving the needle retracted leaves the nozzle open which could admit dust into the tip. If you have a crown cap, leaving that on when not in use should protect the tip fine. I really should get some actual airbrush cleaner. As to the tip, it's stored with a metal cap on it, and in the holder/holster thing on the compressor, so should be ok for dust.
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Jul 9, 2015 21:18
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Baronjutter posted:I'd always struggle to get the drat thing working, just spraying water. So I'd run windex through and sometimes strip it down and clean the guts. Other times after a while the water would start coming out, but never instantly. Eventually I'd get to the stage where I could add paint. Most of my paint was testors and I used their brand thinner, but I'd sometimes try thinning down craft store paint and spraying that too. I'd have to work the needle back and forth to get any spray, it will only spray when I aggressively move the needle in and out, simply holding the trigger down won't work. So the brush just sort of pulses and spits. Eventually it just stops all together and I go back to the start. Run windex, run water, take it apart if needed. Finally once done I'd always give it a super clean thinking "this time I'm going to clean it so well it will work out of the box next time!" but that was never the case. There could be tons of issues there. First, when you say Testors, I'm assuming you mean their enamels? Enamels aren't something you should really spray until you've got a good handle on airbrushing, as they can clog the poo poo out of the brush and be very hard to remove if they dry inside. Craft paint can be sprayed as well, but it's one of the worst things you can put through a brush. Craft paint is basically rebranded house-paint, and the pigment size is huge and just loves to clog brushes. What were you using to thin it? How thin were the paints after you thinned them? What you're going for is a milk-like consistency. The problem though ultimately is the brush, not you. Those Master brushes are complete garbage, so you'd have a much easier time with a quality brush. A quality brush can be completely locked up with dried paint, and still be brought back to perfectly new, usable condition with proper cleaning. A cheap brush will just seize, and probably rust once the cheap plating wears away. If you're still very wary of spending the cash on a new brush and facing the same issues, check with any art stores near you and see if they offer any sort of "intro to airbrushing" classes. That would give you a chance to mess with a quality airbrush and see the kind of experience you can get with something decent. The Locator posted:I really should get some actual airbrush cleaner. Most art stores should carry big rear end bottles of Medea cleaner. That stuff works great, and a bottle should last you a good long while. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Jul 9, 2015 |
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Jul 9, 2015 21:24
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Does anybody have any positive experiences with airbrushing Model Master acrylic semi-gloss clear? I have a bottle that I tried hand brushing with and had a miserable time with it.
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Jul 9, 2015 21:30
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What sort of issues were you having? Rough finish, or not the sheen you were expecting? I find satin/semi-gloss and mattes of any brand don't brush particularly well. They usually end up just looking like gloss in the end, or have a very uneven finish.
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Jul 9, 2015 21:34
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What sort of issues were you having? Rough finish, or not the sheen you were expecting? Rough, uneven finish. It just looked like crap. I had a better experience hand brushing with Future. I ended up airbrushing some Future yesterday and was very pleased with how well it worked, so that made me wonder if the Model Master stuff would work better airbrushed as well or if it's just complete garbage no matter what.
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Jul 9, 2015 21:42
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It was all testors acrylic, I even asked my awful hobby shop what a good easy to clean/airbrush paint was. I used a few other brands as well, all arcylic, all pre-thinned or easily thinned with thinner or water or some alcohol. I only started using craft paint when the brush was already really bad so I was just like "gently caress it, I'll put what ever in here and hope something comes out!"
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Jul 9, 2015 21:42
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