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I've never used it, but you can have them ship directly to one of their listed installers and save yourself the hassle.
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Jul 10, 2015 22:36
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Why wouldn't you just ship then to the installer? That's the default way anyway.
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Jul 10, 2015 22:39
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Because I usually haven't decided when I'm actually having them put on until I pick up a set of spare wheels or have a random day off from work or something.
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Jul 10, 2015 22:59
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The default places Tirerack picks are kinda pricey too in my experience. You can go to any Walmart and get just about anything mounted for $12/wheel. My friend even had some insane 33" tires mounted for $12 bucks each.
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Jul 11, 2015 00:19
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kastein posted:Skip the retreads, iForge was given the runaround for weeks and lied to multiple times by Treadwright about whether his tires had shipped yet, finally canceled his order, and I am not sure if he even has his money back yet. They moved the company and fired every last competent person just over a year ago. It's no longer the same company in any way other than name.
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Jul 11, 2015 05:48
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Trying to diagnose a clicking sound on my 92 XJ after a 3" lift. Only happens under acceleration, mostly over 25mph. Metallic clicking noise - almost like a louder version of what your exhaust sounds like when it's cooling down. I'm thinking a ujoint but front and rear axles have no side-to-side or up-and-down play to them. Front driveshaft will rotate maybe a degree or two back and forth when parked w/ 4WD disengaged. I ordered a t-case drop kit but now I am thinking it might be something else? FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 14:41
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Is it kind of a chirping/squealing noise? Sounds like no, but it could be the centering ball unit on the front drive shaft. Its the thingamajig that sits between the two u-joints. There in a spring and some needle bearings in there and they like to get all messed up and start squealing. You could try taking off the front driveshaft to see if the noise goes away. You can also take off the rear shaft and leave the front in to rule the rear shaft out. I feel like clicking is more likely to be a front axle-shaft u-joint, have you checked those? Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 22:48
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Yeah - it's clicking. No squealing. Checked front and rear u-joints. None have any play in them.
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Jul 11, 2015 23:21
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Tire Rack Discount Tire Discount Tire Direct There are basically the only places I bother pricing. I intent to play them off each other this fall on some 33" Duratracs on 17" Level 8 Trackers. Shopping for tires for the Corvette is way tougher...it's near impossible to find decent tires with a 5/8" whitewall for reasonable prices but can still handle driving further than from trailer to parking spot at Carlisle. Edit: Also, check different car forums...sometimes these guys are sponsors and provide forum discounts. DT or DTD were sponsors on wranglerforum for a while, not sure if they still are. Likewise with tirerack on focaljet. Godholio fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 23:58
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I meant to reply to your original post, but offering input now anyways. If you don't want to buy 4 jacks, just use two and do the front brakes and then switch and do the rear brakes. It always helps to have a symmetrical reference in case you forget where a part goes. Rivets and Plastidip have gone excellently. Wheels look surprisingly good. On the other hand, the brakes are an ongoing disaster. So on the bright side, my car will be a good looking abandoned driveway vehicle. Edit: First wheel's pads and rotor took about 14 hours of work counting dealing with a seized rotor, trips to the parts shop, finding info online, learning how much cleaning of the caliper bracket is required. And who the gently caress uses a 13/16th bolt? 3/4" not good enough for you? Also sheared three bolts in half requiring me to get new caliper guide pin sets. Last wheel pads and rotor took 10 minutes. Overall I give my experience a 8/10. Next time I do my brakes I'll probably be done in less than an hour. Breaker bar was a good buy. Torque wrench was a bad buy. edit 2: Ok, bit of an issue. Driving around sunday brakes worked no problem. But I left the master cylinder cap off over night on Saturday and learned that brake fluids loves water which then ruins the brake fluid. Probably should have changed the fluid anyway. Took the car into pep boys to change the brake fluid. Drove off to work and my right rear pad ended up smoking. This something that'll work itself out with some driving now that the system is full of new fluid or do I need to take the caliper apart again? DARPA fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 04:43
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Welp, I'm in for a fun weekend. It finally got -really- hot here, and now the XJ is having some issues. High oil pressure (~75 on the gauge) at start, but once it warms up it starts dropping into the 30's at idle. My first thought was that the head finally cracked, but the oil's at level and clean, no foam or cappuchino, and I'm not missing any coolant. It's not even marking its territory. I'm hoping I just have too lightweight of oil in it or my filter's gone to poo poo, going to change it this weekend.
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Jul 17, 2015 11:05
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Anyone know of a bottle jack that fits where the stock jack went that will work on a jeep with 33's? Maybe out of a f150 or something? Kastein?
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Jul 17, 2015 13:11
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Veeb0rg posted:Anyone know of a bottle jack that fits where the stock jack went that will work on a jeep with 33's? Maybe out of a f150 or something? Kastein? My stock jack reaches the axle tubes easily with 33s - just takes a lot of cranking? Are you sure you're doesn't make it? This is in my TJ, and I suppose it's not necessarily the stock jack, but I don't know why it wouldn't be. You can throw a hunk of 4x4 in with the jack. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 13:52
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I lost mine long ago, but it couldn't get a tire off the ground with 33's, so it wasn't a big deal.
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Jul 17, 2015 14:36
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I have no idea if it'll reach, but you could try one from almost any fullsize truck, ~2500/250 class I guess? I haven't tried to use a stock jack on a lifted vehicle in years, since I bought a farm jack/highlift.
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Jul 17, 2015 14:58
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I have a cheap rolling floor jack that stays in my wrangler but it's only lifted 2" and has 31s.
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Jul 17, 2015 15:05
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It won't fit where the stock jack goes (actually, it might, but I haven't tried), but if you want hydraulic, you want the Land Rover/Range Rover bottle jack. Looks like Land Cruisers have a pretty nice (and slightly taller) mechanical, if that floats your boat, but the LR unit is plenty to lift your Jeep. (I have one in mine and it works great, I'm at about 4.5" of lift on 33s.) Scroll down this page for a side by side: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/any-recommendations-on-a-taller-bottle-jack.291904/ LR is red, LC is black.
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Jul 17, 2015 15:21
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Going to tackle some surface rust on body panels and floor pans before it turns into a thing. Have any of you guys used that POR-15 stuff? What was your workflow like? Did you prep the surface (maybe grind to bright metal) then use the POR-15 metal prep, then POR-15, then paint? Also looking at the POR-15 patch stuff for two small holes in the rear quarter panel.
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Jul 17, 2015 16:33
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Going to tackle some surface rust on body panels and floor pans before it turns into a thing. Have any of you guys used that POR-15 stuff? What was your workflow like? Did you prep the surface (maybe grind to bright metal) then use the POR-15 metal prep, then POR-15, then paint? Also looking at the POR-15 patch stuff for two small holes in the rear quarter panel. Works great.
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Jul 17, 2015 18:46
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Going to tackle some surface rust on body panels and floor pans before it turns into a thing. Have any of you guys used that POR-15 stuff? What was your workflow like? Did you prep the surface (maybe grind to bright metal) then use the POR-15 metal prep, then POR-15, then paint? Also looking at the POR-15 patch stuff for two small holes in the rear quarter panel. Pretty much. I've used Chassis saver (slightly poorer man's POR15) over primer and it's actually held EXCEPT areas where it was exposed to direct sunlight. When I redo those parts, I'll wire wheel down to cleanish metal and then be sure to paint over the CS to protect it from UV. 
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Jul 17, 2015 20:08
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Yeah - I think POR has the same UV issue. Hey, as an aside, want to drive down into NH to do my U-joints for me? 
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Jul 18, 2015 00:08
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I've read that people running 35s on JKs can still use the OE knuckle-buster.
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Jul 18, 2015 03:37
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Going to tackle some surface rust on body panels and floor pans before it turns into a thing. Have any of you guys used that POR-15 stuff? What was your workflow like? Did you prep the surface (maybe grind to bright metal) then use the POR-15 metal prep, then POR-15, then paint? Also looking at the POR-15 patch stuff for two small holes in the rear quarter panel. If you can use a 2-part epoxy primer.... it is many times better than por15. 2part epoxy will set as a flexible, impenetrable barrier that is very sturdy.
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Jul 18, 2015 07:02
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Isn't the point of POR that it has a rust-converter in it?
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Jul 18, 2015 13:31
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Isn't the point of POR that it has a rust-converter in it? The other point is that it's rugged as gently caress when applied correctly and painted over.
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Jul 18, 2015 15:38
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I picked this up a few weeks ago. My first jeep and loving it. Although I am a bit familiar with Jeeps from driving my dad's YJ around once in a while.    So the guy I bought it from was a mobile electronics installer. He put power door locks in the full doors. It also has an alarm which is disarmed by unlocking. It's sensitive enough that when I shut the tailgate the alarm went off. Eventually I will want to take the doors off. Right now it's so hot out that I have to keep the top on and run the AC full blast (Phoenix). But in the fall I am planning on doing some topless driving. At first glance I don't see any quick disconnects for the wiring for the power locks, just some plastic tubing around it. Do you guys think there's a way to remove the doors without disabling the alarm? I'm just not sure how the circuit works with aftermarket locks. We have a lot of car thefts here so I kind of want to keep the alarm enabled. I'm leaning toward just rolling the windows down at this point so I don't have to mess with it.
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Jul 18, 2015 16:27
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Just got a 29spline 8.25 axle delivered to my house for $120. Local guy was moving and needed to sell it. Saves me the headache of pulling one at the pick and pull and only cost $20 more then it would have there. Gonna clean it up, do a disc brake swap/shock tab relocation and swap out my current 27 spline with it.
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Jul 19, 2015 23:24
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This weekend was busy. The plan going into the weekend was that I was going to get my 92 Cherokee road worthy (as a second backup vehicle) and do some work on the Comanche. Last week I'd mounted my new rock auto trans mount to the crossmember.  I started by wire wheeling and painting some old rims to use with the winterforces I just ordered online.   I then found a reason why I won't be driving the XJ any time soon:   Saturday was drizzly and so I spent much of it indoors watching season 22 top gear and wrenching on the MJ.  I'd procrastinated enough on the D30 hanging out on a pallet outside the garage and decided to finally strip off the stubs of sway links/track bar and control arms and antiseize everything.  Drunk Beekeeper posted:I picked this up a few weeks ago. My first jeep and loving it. Although I am a bit familiar with Jeeps from driving my dad's YJ around once in a while. oh man - did you get the 416 too? That looks pretty sweet! I think if I lived there, I'd pull the doors and deter theft with a battery switch. Wranglers are hardly high security vehicles anyhow. With my ginger skin, 90% of the time I drive my wrangler with the top on but the windows and doors out. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jul 20, 2015 |
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Jul 20, 2015 14:09
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Yep, confirmed. XJ just didn't liked 5w-30 synthetic in the summer. Fresh Wix filter and six quarts of 10w-30 liquid dino later and it's purring again.
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Jul 21, 2015 02:21
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Liquid Communism posted:Yep, confirmed. XJ just didn't liked 5w-30 synthetic in the summer. Fresh Wix filter and six quarts of 10w-30 liquid dino later and it's purring again. I've found that xj's like the simple basic stuff, no fancy spark plugs or synthetic oils. Give em the basic old school stuff and they'll out live you. Going to be stripping my new axle soon. I have a wire wheel for my grinder, any other recommended supplies for paint and rust removal? Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 03:13
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Veeb0rg posted:Going to be stripping my new axle soon. I have a wire wheel for my grinder, any other recommended supplies for paint and rust removal? When I swapped in my Chrysler 8.25 I just had wire wheels (knotted and regular), and Rustoleum primer/black. The drums were good but rusted on the outside so I put em in an electrolysis bath. Might as well change the pads and stupid spring hardware while you're screwing with it, and change the gear oil/eyeball the diff for wear/put a new diff cover gasket on it. I found good felpro gaskets for ~$4 at Autozone. All that stuff is trivial when the axle is out of the car.
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Jul 21, 2015 04:25
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Sandbagger SA posted:
Nah, he let me buy it without it. Just didn't see much use for it, although that will probably change in the future. I still have his number if you want to make a road trip! Currently top is on with sides off, doors on but windows down. Seems to work so far with the AC still on max.
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Jul 21, 2015 04:50
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:When I swapped in my Chrysler 8.25 I just had wire wheels (knotted and regular), and Rustoleum primer/black. The drums were good but rusted on the outside so I put em in an electrolysis bath. Might as well change the pads and stupid spring hardware while you're screwing with it, and change the gear oil/eyeball the diff for wear/put a new diff cover gasket on it. I found good felpro gaskets for ~$4 at Autozone. All that stuff is trivial when the axle is out of the car. I'm actually going to convert it to disc brakes off a zj and I have a ruff stuff diff cover for it. I'm also going to relocate the shock mounts so they don't hang as low while its out. Will also change the axle seals since the shafts have to come out anyway. The wire wheel I have is one of the knotted ones. I just didn't know if it was worth picking up a flapdisc or two as well.
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Jul 21, 2015 04:57
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Veeb0rg posted:I've found that xj's like the simple basic stuff, no fancy spark plugs or synthetic oils. Give em the basic old school stuff and they'll out live you. Yeah, mine ran like poo poo on new plugs, but put Champion coppers in there and it's perfectly happy. I don't question it anymore, just feed it what it likes.
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Jul 21, 2015 05:54
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Its a brick with a tractor motor, do you expect anything less?
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Jul 21, 2015 06:09
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Liquid Communism posted:Yeah, mine ran like poo poo on new plugs, but put Champion coppers in there and it's perfectly happy. Does yours have the coil rail setup with waste spark? Champion coppers seem to burn up pretty quickly in mine.
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Jul 21, 2015 14:41
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Anyone who owns a 2013 or newer Jeep with Uconnect NEEDS to update their firmware, immediately. Here is why. http://www.wired.com/2015/07/hackers-remotely-kill-jeep-highway/ Meanwhile I will be over here happily wrenching on my luddite style XJs/MJs and not worrying because the brakes, steering, throttle, and transmission are MINE, bitches. That is, if they were capable of moving under their own power anyways. - signed, a professional automotive embedded systems engineer kastein fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 16:00
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That was an interesting read. Can't say I'm particularly surprised. Industrial controls are no better. Security through obscurity is the name of the game. Add an internet connection and poo poo like this is only a matter of time.
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Jul 21, 2015 16:18
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kastein posted:Anyone who owns a 2013 or newer Jeep with Uconnect NEEDS to update their firmware, immediately. Here is why. http://www.wired.com/2015/07/hackers-remotely-kill-jeep-highway/ Lovely, chances of loving something up if I do the update myself? Or should I just take it down to the dealership and have them do it? edit: And thanks, just sent this out to all my Jeeps friends so they are aware of it. mattfl fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 16:19
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kastein posted:Anyone who owns a 2013 or newer Jeep with Uconnect NEEDS to update their firmware, immediately. Here is why. http://www.wired.com/2015/07/hackers-remotely-kill-jeep-highway/ At first I thought I was reading an article about Land Rovers newest product reviews. Then realized that this poo poo is entirely all to real and scary. Why the gently caress do breaks not work when commanded, like the simple vacuum/hydraulic set up that worked for YEARS.
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Jul 21, 2015 16:23
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