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Cthulu Carl posted:Sup, West Chester Buddy? If you guys are ever in the Coshocton area, our club is open every Friday night, and we'd be glad to have you. Baronjutter posted:Oh these make such a huge difference. 12,000 lumen!! Your layout looks amazing, man.
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Jul 12, 2015 02:14
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| # ? May 21, 2024 04:46 |
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And with the forgotten siding laid and the last books and weights pulled off my now dried track, I'm declaring my trackwork done. Now comes all the fun stuff like... ballasting... gently caress
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Jul 12, 2015 02:16
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Baronjutter posted:Your benchwork looks pretty good, how wide are the tables, what's your minimum radius going to be? Also what's the point of that nice finish when it's all going to get covered in track and scenery?! I make little wooden boats, it's not going to be covered in track and scenery, it's going to be covered in sawdust, plans and tools! The dimensions of everything are in the drawing in the post, the 'desk tops' are 30" x 60".
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Jul 12, 2015 03:08
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 So a company jus came out with a new line of N scale trucks. The detail is insane, leaps above anything I've seen before. And yes that's optimus.
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Jul 12, 2015 07:35
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I'm about to build my first plane kit since I was a kid. It's this one: http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/eduard-messerschmitt-bf109e1-weekend-edition-84164-p-44051.html I have access to an airbrush, but I've only used it to spray base layers before. Is there anything worth to keep in mind before I attack the kit, like general advice for planes? I'm on a basic kit making level where I've managed to put together a few tanks without screwing them up completely, but planes look a lot more complicated than tanks.
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Jul 12, 2015 18:49
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lilljonas posted:I'm about to build my first plane kit since I was a kid. It's this one: If you want a straight forward recipe that should give a good result try something along these lines. Painting wise make sure you use a good primer and give it plent of time to dry. Try some pre shading in black if you feel confident enough with your airbrush. Just take your time masking up for the hard edge cammo and make sure you are spraying in thin semi transluent layers and build the colours up. MIx a slighty lighter shade of your base colours and spray into just the centre of your panels. Again make sure this is in thin transulent layers. Gloss the whole thing off and leave for 48 hours. Do your transfers using micro sol and micro set, and then gloss over them. Hit it with a flory wash. Then leave to dry out and matt coat it. Tada! EDIT: also do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TRj7pidfCI and then use this: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/EDEX439 big_g fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 19:45
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Decided to take a break with the sci-fi models and try some older planes instead. I did a bunch of filling, sanding, and priming on my Spitfire mk II today and I'm pretty happy with how it's coming along despite how many gaps and seams there were. I forgot how spoiled I have been with the Bandai and Moebius models.    I've been building up light coats of Tamiya fine surface primer and sanding spots that I missed. I lost a little bit of the raised panel lines, but I'm not going to lose sleep over it. I got one last coat of primer drying and then I will probably start preshading. This is a fun hobby. 
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Jul 13, 2015 00:01
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So nearly a month of work has effectively been ruined. Finished up Yellow 44 and shot some matte varnish (Krylon Artist Grade Matte) and it frosted up bad. Let that dry thoroughly and sprayed some gloss which fixed up most of the painted surfaces (still dulled them) but the clear canopy parts are toast. Pretty pissed off right now.
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Jul 13, 2015 01:28
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Time to learn the fine art of "cockpit jewelling" I think.
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Jul 13, 2015 01:45
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Heh. Yeah that's a possibility. I also purposely avoided running the two parts of the camo pattern over the canopy rails so I could replace it with a vacuum form I guess. Going to sleep on it; still pretty ticked.
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Jul 13, 2015 01:56
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I don't suppose denatured alcohol'd fix it?
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Jul 13, 2015 02:08
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I tried that and "sanding" it down with a magic eraser. Its like it etched in or something. Just going to call it done, lesson learned. Krylon's artist grade matte varnish is crap. The odd thing is that I used it on my BF-109 and it worked just fine. I have no idea why it blew up so badly this time. Aside from the wrecked canopy, she's basically finished:   
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Jul 13, 2015 02:31
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You know.... You could just make a snow-covered airfield diorama base for it, and then with the open canopy it'd make total sense for a just-landed plane to have fogged up.
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Jul 13, 2015 03:12
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Could you order a replacement canopy? I know with model trains if I ever gently caress up a part of break something I can just get a replacement part. Or.. probably model planes like that don't work that way since everything's on a big spru? With trains you can order almost every single individual part separately.
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Jul 13, 2015 03:19
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Depends on the company. With Airfix you could when I was in the habit of loving up parts. Canopies tend to be their own sprue anyways, so it's more likely that way.
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Jul 13, 2015 03:50
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Accurate Miniatures doesn't exist anymore. Their molds were bought up by another company but I don't know if they're producing this aircraft currently. Doesn't matter much, there's no lack of vacuform canopies out there for this kit and they're cheap. ^^ I had an Airfix Stuka that was missing the landing light cover; the just sent me the entire sprue when I asked about replacing that part. Even sent it airmail; got here in just a few days from the UK.
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Jul 13, 2015 03:56
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I think Eduard bought up the Accurate Miniatures tooling. Is this your kit? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/166942-accurate-miniatures-3425-yakolev-yak-1b edit: I mean it doesn't matter, but I like pointing out how cool scalemates is
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Jul 13, 2015 04:15
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No its the older variant of it. Like I said its frustrating but not the end of the world. There's lot of options for fixing the problem. I just wish I knew why the matte decided to blow up in my face like that given that I've used it a bunch on other projects with no problem at all. Probably some interaction with ambient humidity and the phases of the moon interacting with cosmic radiation being emitted from the solar system's bow shock as it plows through the interstellar medium of Jello Pudding Pops. I wouldn't buy that Eduard reissue unless you're really, really intent on a Yak-1b model. The Zvezda Yak-3 is a much better kit and costs less. Externally there's no much difference between a Yak-1b and a Yak-3. Accurate Miniature's Yaks have lots of clever engineering that ends up being a pain in the rear end to work with. Sauer fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 04:46
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Sauer posted:I tried that and "sanding" it down with a magic eraser. Its like it etched in or something. Just going to call it done, lesson learned. Krylon's artist grade matte varnish is crap. The odd thing is that I used it on my BF-109 and it worked just fine. I have no idea why it blew up so badly this time. I think my favorite part of this thread is seeing all of the loving awesome looking planes and tanks.  This looks fantastic!
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Jul 13, 2015 05:26
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Sauer posted:^^ I had an Airfix Stuka that was missing the landing light cover; the just sent me the entire sprue when I asked about replacing that part. Even sent it airmail; got here in just a few days from the UK.  Matte varnishes are just weird. I sprayed six bases worth of a Flames of War infantry platoon at the same time, out in the car-park of a convention, under a sap-misting tree (cars are filthy with it after an hour or so). ONE out of the six bases fogged. Then it magically unfogged itself a few hours later, after I had poked at it in rage and smudged parts of it 
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Jul 13, 2015 05:32
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Any idea how "hot" that spray varnish is? Maybe the plastic was a little less resilient, and it slightly crazed the clear parts. Whereas the 109 was made of tougher plastic that resisted it.
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Jul 13, 2015 05:36
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Hey Sauer, if the canopy is ruined anyways, you could try a Future dip, see if it fills in the crazing.
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Jul 13, 2015 05:51
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You could also set it up like one of those decommissioned planes in front of air museums, they all have crazed cockpits like that from sun exposure.
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Jul 13, 2015 17:56
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Sauer posted:I tried that and "sanding" it down with a magic eraser. Its like it etched in or something. Just going to call it done, lesson learned. Krylon's artist grade matte varnish is crap. The odd thing is that I used it on my BF-109 and it worked just fine. I have no idea why it blew up so badly this time. Still looks pretty bloody good though. I've always left the cockpit off while I do the matt coat on the main plane. I then dip the canopy separately, mask it all off, airbrush the colours and then spray on the matt coat while the mask is still on. That way you get a lovely gloss canopy. As for a recommendation I have had very good and consistent results with this http://www.thewarstore.com/product39108.html it's never gone fucky on me once yet. If I were you I would just pick up an after market canopy and replace with that. It really shouldn't take that long and the thing will look ace. Someone once told me that the skill in painting models at this scale was how to consistently fix your mistakes and disasters as you go along. No paint job I have ever done has worked out exactly as how I first planned in my head. big_g fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 19:52
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Spraying matte after removing the masks was a mistake and a brain fart on my part. I've always left the masks on to the very end on other projects. Can't remember why I took them off early this time  .Either way the varnish frosted up over the entire model. Another coat of future and some "aggressive" buffing with a magic eraser fixed it. A little bit of frosting can still be seen in places but it looks more like sun faded paint so I'm not upset about that. Just the canopy. I'm going to pop them off tonight and dunk them completely in pure alcohol. A good soaking will probably loosen that crap off and I can repaint them. I'm sure the clear plastic underneath is fine; I have sealed them with future before and after painting. A comment from a fine arts buddy of mine says that Krylon stuff is amazing but its super picky about heat and humidity. Don't use it above room temperature or higher than 50% relative humidity or so or it will frost. It was definitely to hot and humid last night. Sauer fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 20:44
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Krylon is really mediocre overall. It's your most bog standard run of the mill spray. There's a reason they sell it primarily in paint/hardware stores.
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Jul 13, 2015 20:51
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Finished the camo on my spitfire. I think I'm happy with it, but now that it's dry I think the brown is way to dark. 
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Jul 13, 2015 20:57
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Krylon is really mediocre overall. It's your most bog standard run of the mill spray. There's a reason they sell it primarily in paint/hardware stores. This is supposed to be the fancy dancy "Fine-Art" grade stuff they sell for a ridiculous markup at the art store. I have used it in the past on miniatures and such without issue. I'm sure its just my using it in typical "Montreal in July" weather that boned me. http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1311-Aerosol-Finish-Enamel/dp/B005ENZ8CS
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Jul 13, 2015 20:58
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Sauer posted:This is supposed to be the fancy dancy "Fine-Art" grade stuff they sell for a ridiculous markup at the art store. I have used it in the past on miniatures and such without issue. I'm sure its just my using it in typical "Montreal in July" weather that boned me. That's just their regular product. They don't have different grades of spray. Their clears are known to yellow over time (like Future and Epoxies), and their primers have absolutely terrible coverage. If you want to use sprays, you'd get better results from a dedicated hobby spray, or a fine-arts spray from Liquitex or Golden.
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Jul 13, 2015 21:38
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Um, what did you expect by spraying a clear canopy matte anyway?
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Jul 13, 2015 23:52
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Somebody recommend a good filler. I've run out of my favourite Revell stuff, I got some Tamiya 'basic' and I don't like it (too thin, seems to take forever to dry). What does everyone use? I heard there's some car related stuff that works well but I don't know what I'm looking for.
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Jul 14, 2015 00:03
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Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty works great, I've found. Should be available at any place that sells autobody supplies. Easier working than the hobby stuff, and much less prone to chip and crack.
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Jul 14, 2015 01:14
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RE: Canopy Drama Dunked the front and middle bits in ethanol overnight. Everything, even the primer, fell off when I pulled it out. Going to look just fine after another dunk in future and repainting. Everything is going to be okay  . The rear portion was protected by the sliding bit so it looks fine. The lesson is that booze is always there for us, always ready lend a hand and make all your problems go away.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:18
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Troll Bridgington posted:Finished the camo on my spitfire. I think I'm happy with it, but now that it's dry I think the brown is way to dark. This is nice and neat, good job on the masking. If I could give some advice? it looks like you are laying down base coats well but they may be a bit heavy? One of the most beneficial aspects of using an airbrush is that you can use several semi transparent layers that build the colour up as opposed to one coat that just puts down the colour. You could perhaps try thinning the paint a bit more and/or trying a lower pressure? You could also try lightening the colour on each pass a bit and just keep it towards the centre of the panels to give a panel shaded effect. Hope this doesn't come across as patronising but just thought it might help. big_g fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 21:29
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Sauer posted:RE: Canopy Drama https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUVwR0rw5fk
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Jul 15, 2015 21:55
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Sauer posted:RE: Canopy Drama I've had some problem stripping paint off a choochoo. Nothing I use seems to be taking it off. I was using 99% isopropyl and then I tried simple green, soaking over night, neither worked. Would ethanol be work? Or is that basically just alcohol?
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Jul 15, 2015 21:58
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big_g posted:This is nice and neat, good job on the masking. Thanks for the advice! I think there are areas where I got a little overzealous correcting a few mistakes I made with the base coat.  I'm currently just using tamiya paint straight out of the bottle at around 20 PSI. I think sometimes I get too close, or lay back on the trigger too much, especially when I was doing the brown since I didn't mask the whole plane and was worried about getting some stray color in areas I didn't want. I definitely need some more practice and I'm not one to turn down advice or criticisms.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:15
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Ethanol is alcohol. I would say try acetone, but I'm not sure what material your train is made of. I think acetone will craze styrene, probably.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:17
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Ethanol is alcohol. Think it's all styrene and derylin or what ever. Nothing transparent though.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:26
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Find a scrap piece and let it sit in some acetone for a while first though to test, it loves to eat plastic.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:29
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