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Hey guys, I'm trying to sell an 04 impreza wrx wagon and am having a bit of a tough time settling on an asking price. It's a 4sp auto, has around 128k miles, and is running smoothly. Recently replaced power steering pump and assembly. Timing belt snapped at 83k miles, so I had a valve rebuilt and the timing belt done (obviously). Cosmetically, the car is in fair-ish to poor condition: it's scratched up, there's a spot of rust near the passenger side rear door, and a couple of dents. I think it falls somewhere in the range of 3500-5k, but I'm really not sure what's reasonable to start with---I don't know the market that well. I'm located in socal. edit: any thoughts?
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Jul 10, 2015 23:59
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| # ? May 11, 2024 15:40 |
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It's still a WRX. I think you're lowballing yourself by a wide margin by aiming for $5k, regardless of the condition. Take a look at what others are asking near you on Craigslist, eBay, etc.
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Jul 11, 2015 00:14
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A liter of fluid is enough to do a full brake fluid flush right?
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Jul 11, 2015 06:42
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That should be more than enough
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Jul 11, 2015 18:02
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Spicy Guacamole posted:It's still a WRX. I think you're lowballing yourself by a wide margin by aiming for $5k, regardless of the condition. Take a look at what others are asking near you on Craigslist, eBay, etc. The auto probably really hurts the price but I think you are right based on everything I have seen. I worked at a place right next to a guy who sold specialty used cars and talked with him about used WRX prices all the time...he said that any running WRX, no matter how hosed up, will always bring at least $5,000.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:27
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Wojcigitty posted:The auto probably really hurts the price but I think you are right based on everything I have seen.
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Jul 12, 2015 01:44
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Or you wanted to save anywhere between 5 and 10k...?
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Jul 12, 2015 02:09
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Is the auto more of an issue than the dents, scratches, etc?
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Jul 12, 2015 04:06
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Really? I always thought that the only reason to get a WRX over an STI was because you wanted an auto. Non explosive engines.
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Jul 12, 2015 05:30
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NOW YOU TELL ME.
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Jul 12, 2015 05:41
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I'm at 86-87k miles on the Saabaru but it's been about 10 years since it's been manufactured. Should I do the timing belt now?
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Jul 13, 2015 04:48
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Is a P0420 on an EJ251 SOHC ever not the cat? Really don't want to have to find time in my schedule to hit an exhaust shop.  Car's almost at 300,000 km, runs a touch rich and has bad head gaskets so I'm gonna guess it's probably the cat, but it would be very nice if it were the downstream O2.
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Jul 13, 2015 04:51
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blk posted:I'm at 86-87k miles on the Saabaru but it's been about 10 years since it's been manufactured. Should I do the timing belt now? I don't know about America but like in Australia you do timing belts every 100k kms on any car, and you are at 140k kms, so yes, you should probably do it.
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Jul 13, 2015 11:08
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is a P0420 on an EJ251 SOHC ever not the cat? Really don't want to have to find time in my schedule to hit an exhaust shop. You can try spacing the rear o2, but it's usually the cat.
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Jul 13, 2015 13:18
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How bad a DIY job is an uppipe on a 04 wrx? Mine still sports the original with a cat and I have been meaning to go catless. The car has 108k and has been in the Mid Atlantic region its whole life, so some rust but not New England bad. I know that the rust seems to hit the exhaust first though? Should I just pay a shop to do it?
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Jul 13, 2015 19:47
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A lot of the tiny heat shield bolts will probably break so consider an aftermarket one to go back on over the downpipe/turbo. If you break off a stud or two on the up-pipe it doesn't matter because it's getting replaced, but be careful with the studs on the turbo and have a couple of new bolts ready. And use lots of PB. Other than that, not so bad.
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Jul 13, 2015 19:59
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jamal posted:A lot of the tiny heat shield bolts will probably break so consider an aftermarket one to go back on over the downpipe/turbo. If you break off a stud or two on the up-pipe it doesn't matter because it's getting replaced, but be careful with the studs on the turbo and have a couple of new bolts ready. And use lots of PB. Other than that, not so bad. Thanks for the tip. I will keep this in mind if I work up the courage to try this at home. In lighter news, on my way to work the car started a weird rhythmic noise at random intervals. I thought maybe drivetrain related and was dreading what it could be. Same thing on the way home. I managed to create the noise at between 10 and 30 mph. A/c on and off, different gears, but only moving. I get home and realize it is the toy music table flr my two year old in the back, the acc and decel were causing it to hit one of the switches. Anyway glad it was something stupid and not a real problem.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:14
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I'm about to replace the valve cover gaskets on my '04 FXT cause the passenger side started leaking like a sieve and the driver's side is seeping a bit but not leaving a stain on the driveway like the passenger side is. Any idea if this gasket is any good: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q0S9JI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2P11A2KVSUOD5&coliid=IB7XZG6LBZFTT ? Unfortunately I don't have a lot of cash so if I can save a few bucks it'd be ideal. Also, I've found mixed answers on replacing the "half moons" that are part of the valve covers. Should I assume that they're shot and need to be replaced? I'm doing the timing belt at the same time (I'm at 108K miles) so I fully plan on my car being useless for several days since I'm doing this by myself after I get the kids to bed at night. Should be A Good Time.
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Jul 14, 2015 15:09
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I did the timing belt and pax valve cover gasket on my 04 wrx. Things of note I recall: -I did do the half moons. They came out pretty easy, seemed like cheap insurance as I wanted to minimize the chance I would have to redo it. -I used RTV (the honda stuff cause Subaru was out of stock) where the manual indicated. So far so good. Some people online slathered it on like sunblock. -do the oil separator as well, it is on the valve cover. Removing it is much easier when it is not on the car. Mine was leaking bad. - a dental mirror was helpful in looking underneath for getting a good seal, and for counting teeth on the timing belt in awkward areas. - clean the hell out of the mating surfaces, I used lots of degreaser and rags. -also replace the plug gaskets and grommets. - I used the beck arnley kit off amazon. I am not a pro, just a guy who has learned a lot from the pros in this thread.
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Jul 14, 2015 18:44
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^^all of that is accurate but you forgot to mention that it's a complete oval office of a job.
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Jul 14, 2015 21:25
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BraveUlysses posted:^^all of that is accurate but you forgot to mention that it's a complete oval office of a job. Mercury Ballistic posted:- a dental mirror was helpful in looking underneath for getting a good seal, and for counting teeth on the timing belt in awkward areas. He did.
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Jul 15, 2015 00:30
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I'll add that to my list of poo poo to get from Harbor Freight
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Jul 15, 2015 00:44
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Yeah I'm having a shop do the timing belt on my DOHC EJ25, gently caress it.
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Jul 15, 2015 00:44
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I gotta do my dohc soon. 125k.
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Jul 15, 2015 01:42
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Huh? Are you guys doing something weird with your timing changes or just being a bunch of pussies  The only really annoying thing is if you don't have a cam holder tool then spinning the intake cam and mounting the belt at the right spot is a bit of a pain. Otherwise it's no big deal. Shouldn't your new belt have timing marks that line up with the marks on the sprockets, no counting teeth involved? Or is that only for the newer engines?
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Jul 15, 2015 02:14
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The biggest PITA about the timing belt was doing the water pump.
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Jul 15, 2015 02:22
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Which is not difficult, just don't mix the water pump and timing cover bolts. While you can do the belt just by removing the fans, a water pump should go in at the same time so pull the radiator and fans together. Then you have lots of room. And if you're curious about the belt installation process I've got a video on youtube somewhere.
jamal fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jul 15, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 03:37
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I just had a poo poo show of a time getting the gasket aligned properly and not falling off with only two hands. The two small hoses were also giving me a terrible time since clearance was so low, getting them bent right to slide on the connections probably took me 40 minutes and a ton of swearing.
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Jul 15, 2015 03:47
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Weirdly specific question - is there a difference between brake light switch 8311FJ000 and 8311FG011? The 2nd one is $10 cheaper shipped, they seem interchangeable, just probably a newer revision?
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Jul 15, 2015 19:56
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What would cause a high pitch almost wind noise sounding hum from the rear when I come.off the throttle at 80-100 kmh? All I've changed recently is the brakes, wheel nuts are tight. I've driven on the highway quite a bit today and it only happened on the last bit just now.
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Jul 17, 2015 07:50
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6KWHBR7i1w The noise. It actually happens at all speeds, its just I have to roll in neutral to hear it at speeds below 80kmh. Dunno if throttle effects it at low speeds but its definitely only when I'm off the throttle, if i go up a hill with a small amount of throttle such that its still decelerating, no noise unless i am 100% of the throttle.
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Jul 17, 2015 15:22
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Wheel bearing I think. Does it get worse or go away when turning in certain directions?
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Jul 17, 2015 16:08
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FogHelmut posted:Weirdly specific question - is there a difference between brake light switch 8311FJ000 and 8311FG011? The 2nd one is $10 cheaper shipped, they seem interchangeable, just probably a newer revision? Answer: http://vitalysmobileautodiagnostics.com/13708/design-change-to-stop-light-switch-dtcs-c1531-andor-c0054-2008-2014-subaru-vehicles
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Jul 17, 2015 16:13
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always be closing posted:Wheel bearing I think. Does it get worse or go away when turning in certain directions? I would lift the car up and check all four wheels. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-Imt8PyBss
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Jul 17, 2015 16:16
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always be closing posted:Wheel bearing I think. Does it get worse or go away when turning in certain directions? I dunno. When I was recording that it sounded like it was directly behind me when I put my ear to the pillar, which on an AUDM car is the left, however when I turn left, and it has to be more than a slight turn, it sounds like both wheels do it, like 2 instruments playing canon. Sometimes it doesn't though. I'm pretty pissed off this has happened. I have no choice but to fix it at a shop no matter what it is because my backs hosed up from an injury at work. Literally the worst timing. Would like to know how serious and whether I can wait out my back fixing itself.
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Jul 17, 2015 16:20
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I guess Whiteline got tired of seeing car after car with "Whiteline parts" and massive bumpsteer from being excessively lowered or otherwise dicked-with, so now they're going to give you a free part up to $100 in value if you buy a KCA313 bump steer kit. http://www.whitelineus.com/roll-center-promo/ The offer is only good in the US but it also says that you'll be responsible for duty if they send the parts to Canada, so I have no idea what the deal is there. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 21:18
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Dammit I already have a set. It literally made more of a difference on cornering speed than new springs & dampers on an already lowered car, gently caress the mcstrut camber curve.
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Jul 17, 2015 21:24
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Hey I know a dealer to get a roll center adjuster from too!
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Jul 17, 2015 23:39
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The lifter noise my WRX makes when cold has been getting progressively worse and lasting longer. For a while it would only happen first thing in the morning until the car warmed up slightly but recently it comes back sometimes at idle randomly. From the stethoscope it seemed to be coming from the driver's side head. No stranger to valve noise and adjustments I decided to undertake a valve check and adjustment if necessary. Since the car's a 02 it is shim over bucket and can be changed in the car with the right ($230) tool. It looked a lot easier than shimming the desmo heads on the Ducatis I've worked on. If the valves ended up to be out I'd measure, put it back together, and buy some shims/the tool for next weekend. A failed tensioner was a possibility but since I replaced the idler pulleys/tensioner/belt/etc with factory parts about 35k ago I figured that was less likely than valve clearance after 225k miles. Since I had to remove the covers to look at the timing while adjusting the valves I figured I should probably check the tensioner anyway so this morning I started tearing it apart. I pulled the pulley and all the timing covers and the problem was pretty apparent. The tensioner puked some of its fluid out around the shaft and was vibrating up and down quite a bit. If I stick a screwdriver in and apply a bit more tension the car quiets right down.  https://vid.me/PnvE Ugh. Replacement's easy enough, but is there some other root cause I should be looking for?
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Jul 18, 2015 20:34
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| # ? May 11, 2024 15:40 |
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Trip report: Subaru rubber is good stuff. I outbackified my '98 Legacy with brand new KYB Outback struts and OEM springs, top hats, and rubber two days ago. Today I disassembled the old struts and found that the rubber bits were in 100% condition, with the exception of the front strut bump stops which were cracked on the first ring. The rusty springs weren't bad either, despite nearly a dozen long-distance moves with 500+ lb cargoes and hauling enough firewood to botttom out the rear suspension a few times. I REALLY regret not disassembling the old struts and reusing the rubber - could have saved $100. (And not to mention, the Moog boot and bump stop kits Rockauto sells do NOT fit - the fronts fit with some trimming, but the rears are totally wrong.) Anyone want some used strut rubber?
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Jul 18, 2015 20:48
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