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I'd never pay S2000 money for a Z3 but if he's happy with it...BraveUlysses posted:I love my e46 so much that i'm scouring the west coast for an e46 wagon or an e91 to replace my wife's 2013 VW sportwagen tdi, cause gently caress fuel economy.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:04
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BlackMK4 posted:I'd never pay S2000 money for a Z3 but if he's happy with it... Couldn't be worse than doing them on a Z3MC. I think we'd be getting an automatic, cause its nearly impossible to find these things with manuals--and the e91 has the benefit of a much, much better transmission than e46.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:08
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BraveUlysses posted:Couldn't be worse than doing them on a Z3MC. Hah, it's pretty much exactly the same. Everything from the rear seats back needs to come out. PS. 335D is still at BMW.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:10
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Paradoxish posted:Depends on location. $6k for an e39 540i 6-speed in good condition would be a pretty good price in my area. I was looking at 540s before I decided on another E46, and well-maintained examples that haven't been beat to hell go for anywhere from $5k to $8k around here. You can buy a beater 540 for nothing, but you won't find an example that's actually been cared for cheap. I dunno, from the sound of it the guy's selling it because he can't afford the maintenance, so who knows how much it needs.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:51
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edit- ^^^ yeah that's fair. I was mostly just taking the ad at face value.revmoo posted:BMWs that have had ALL the proper preventative maintenance done are some of the most reliable vehicles on the road. Think of it like a Boeing or an Airbus, not a Toyota. Yep. In ~12 years of used BMW ownership, I don't think any of my cars has ever actually left me stranded or ever had any kind of serious failure. One of the major advantages of these older cars is that there's a huge wealth of knowledge out there on what to expect and you can deal with almost all of it before it becomes an issue. If you want a reliable BMW, research the common problems for the car that you want and budget for all of it.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:56
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as a further addendum to that, if you budget for the parts, you should probably buy them so fcp euro doesn't dick you over and say that bmw short shipped them some cooling hoses so they won't get them to you until friday at the earliest. Don't really wanna reuse the old hoses, and I can't really use the upper hose because the broken off end of the radiator neck is like fused into the hose itself.
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Jul 15, 2015 23:08
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CornHolio posted:Buddy of mine just picked up a nice 2000 Z3 2.8 5-speed. Depends on the mileage of his 545. He could've just dodged a 7000 bill for the valve seals. I was totally not AI enough to do that job myself. So many things wrong with that entire generation.
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Jul 16, 2015 01:48
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the milk machine posted:Has anyone here done spark plugs and/or belt tensioners on a V8 E39 before? Both need to be done on my M5 and I'm trying to figure out whether I can do them myself or should just pay a shop. rscott posted:as a further addendum to that, if you budget for the parts, you should probably buy them so fcp euro doesn't dick you over and say that bmw short shipped them some cooling hoses so they won't get them to you until friday at the earliest. Don't really wanna reuse the old hoses, and I can't really use the upper hose because the broken off end of the radiator neck is like fused into the hose itself.
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Jul 16, 2015 07:58
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I just rolled up on 166,000km on my E82 135i. It's been through lots of poo poo and I have a stack of maintenance records over the last 5 years I've owned it but it's still the most fun car to drive. I'm saying all this because I just finished an exhausting 2 week process to replace the under seat subwoofers (2 weeks shipping to Canada for the kicker subs that fit like stock) as I blew a sub in the Logic 7 system and to replace them requires you to pull out both your front seats to get at everything. It gave me the opportunity to give it a deep cleaning, installed a Bluetooth module and put it all back together. It was well worth it for the grin on my face when I drive it. Still think this is the best 1st year bmw car that I can think of.
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Jul 16, 2015 09:11
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mafoose posted:Easy but tedious on my 540i. There's just quite a few things in the way. Possibly more for you since you have those enormous plenums.
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Jul 16, 2015 15:49
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Alright, so I am looking for a little help. Recently I have replaced my VANOS unit (S52 M3) with a unit from Dr. VANOS. I did the valve cover gaskets and seals at the same time. After the install things seemed good, the butt dyno said power was running as good as it has ever been. Within a week or so after the job I had a very lumpy idle. I would say the first ~5 seconds after starting my car in the morning sound totally fine, then the lumpy idle starts. My CEL came on and the PEAKE scan tool showed codes for OXYGEN SENSOR ADAPTER LIMIT and OXYGEN SENSOR CONTROL LIMIT for both banks of cylinders. I am a little down on power, and the car idles at ~600 RPM when warmed up (a little lower than what it would when normal). I wouldn't say that my fuel economy has changed at all either, it still seems to be getting the same mileage. I assume an air leak; possibly the rubber boots for the intake/throttle body? Should I just go get some carb cleaner and (carefully) squirt around it to see if the idle changes? I replaced the intake manifold gaskets back in December when I replace the starter in my car. Could it be my PCV needs cleaning/replacing?
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Jul 16, 2015 17:45
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So I took my e39 m5 to a dealership for a dme recall and had them do a coolant flush while there. They ended up driving it 5 kms... Am I being crazy for getting pissed? They fed me some bs about needing to test it...
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Jul 16, 2015 18:58
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Lord Zuthulu posted:Am I being crazy for getting pissed? Yes you loving lunatic it's an old M5 you think they really give a gently caress about your car and wanting to hoon it?
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Jul 16, 2015 19:19
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Nitr0 posted:Yes you loving lunatic it's an old M5 you think they really give a gently caress about your car and wanting to hoon it? rear end in a top hat. The e39 m5 is a modern classic. 
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Jul 16, 2015 19:41
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holy poo poo they drove it for 3 miles?!?! daaaaaaaamn boy!
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Jul 16, 2015 19:46
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Well you would want the coolant to get warm to verify that the bleed worked properly.
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Jul 16, 2015 19:48
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5kms I would be mildly annoyed at but I'd let it go. 40kms and I would poo poo all over their yelp page.
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Jul 16, 2015 19:51
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just curious how many miles do you consider acceptable for testing the cooling system?
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Jul 16, 2015 19:52
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Anything under 15. TBH though I don't generally test drive my car after bleeding, because I know how to bleed it and trust myself to do it right the first time.
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Jul 16, 2015 19:55
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 MY NEIGHBOR is the shop foreman for the local BMW Dealership and it is standard procedure for a quick check drive to ensure that all systems are normal after any kind of service. 5 kms isn't anything. Getting weird over that is crazy.edit: does nobody have any ideas on my airleak? situation? 
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Jul 16, 2015 20:01
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Test your ignition coils. EDIT: You may run into an issue testing them if the issue only occurs when they're hot. Try throwing them into a 250 degree oven first.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:03
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You don't bleed the m5....
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Jul 16, 2015 20:05
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Lord Zuthulu posted:You don't bleed the m5.... Is there some special cooling system on the s62 that doesn't require bleeding?
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Jul 16, 2015 20:08
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rscott posted:Is there some special cooling system on the s62 that doesn't require bleeding? Yes. You don't bleed it like on the m62 or m54,etc.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:13
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Lord Zuthulu posted:Yes. You don't bleed it like on the m62 or m54,etc. It's the same as doing an M54, at least according to the TIS. 
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Jul 16, 2015 20:17
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BlackMK4 posted:It's the same as doing an M54, at least according to the TIS. There's no vent screw like on the m54. The car was "ready" hours before I was able to actually pick it up and when I picked up the car the Temps were still warm. Coolant at 81 degrees Celsius and oil at 82 degrees.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:28
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I think you may be freaking out over nothing... and I say this after a BMW dealership damaged the clear bra on my car and refused to fix it for free.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:33
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BlackMK4 posted:I think you may be freaking out over nothing... and I say this after a BMW dealership damaged the clear bra on my car and refused to fix it for free. Look it's not like I am there flipping tables over it. This is the same dealership who quoted me 660 dollars for a diff and trans oil change. Maybe that helps explain why I don't trust them?
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Jul 16, 2015 20:38
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Lord Zuthulu posted:There's no vent screw like on the m54. a) The TIS he linked says nothing about a 'vent screw', but it does show the official coolant bleeding procedure from BMW themselves, so yes, you have to bleed it. The only cars ever made that do not require bleeding air from the coolant after a refill are air-cooled engines, which an S62 most obviously is not. b) So they had it parked in their back lot and had to pull it around front for you? Stop crying over nothing.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:42
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Even if they did do something fishy, what can you do about it now? Just move on with your life and don't take it back to the dealership. Don't let them work on anything other than the recall items.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:44
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HotCanadianChick posted:The only cars ever made that do not require bleeding air from the coolant after a refill are air-cooled engines, which an S62 most obviously is not. My 4Runner is basically "add coolant, run engine" I can't recall any sort of bleeding process.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:49
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Lightbulb Out posted:Even if they did do something fishy, what can you do about it now? Just move on with your life and don't take it back to the dealership. Don't let them work on anything other than the recall items. I can post about it on the internet lol. And yeah that is it.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:53
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revmoo posted:My 4Runner is basically "add coolant, run engine" I can't recall any sort of bleeding process. My Corollas, Camry, and MR2 all required more bleeding than my E46 has needed to get all the air out (I had to bleed the air out of my Corolla at least 5 times before I finally got all the air out). I'm pretty sure even Toyota hasn't figured out how to make a water cooled engine that doesn't get air trapped in there somewhere.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:53
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Here's all the manual has to say about the 1GR engine:quote:25. INSTALL FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT There are no listed steps past #30 EDIT: Btw I've actually personally bled coolant on a Camry and while I don't recall the process, I don't remember it being anything much past the typical japanese bleed procedure; open radiator cap, pour coolant in, fill res, run engine, top off, close rad cap. revmoo fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 20:58
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revmoo posted:Here's all the manual has to say about the 1GR engine: I take it that's not the factory service manual you're looking at, because this appears to be the factory one: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachments/maintenance-detailing/7457d1131245657-coolant-change-v6-2003-3.pdf You'll note step 2.(d) is "Bleed the cooling system". 
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Jul 16, 2015 21:08
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You can't even put an E92 M3 into launch control until you've warmed it up for 8 miles (I realize this is a different car and launch control has no application here, it's just a illustration that 5km doesn't seem like too much for a legitimate test of a BMW performance car) so either 1) They were just warming yours up to test that their work wasn't about to puke coolant all over you on your drive home (likely) 2) They went out and were doing Roadkill style donuts in it before the oil was even warm because the BMW dealership techs have never seen anything as hoonable as a E39 M5 but they only did it for 5km because they had other things to do So either nothing to worry about or something to be terrified about! Your choice.
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Jul 16, 2015 21:08
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Nobody wants their car driven during service but 3mi seems pretty reasonable. If they bring it between the parking lot, shop bay, car wash, etc you're going to put a couple miles on the car. After a dealer had my GTI for a month to fix a simple issue I picked it up with a cigarette butt on the driver's side floor mat. I don't smoke.
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Jul 16, 2015 21:17
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I don't care what any service manual does or doesn't say. A coolant change requires a drive cycle to purge air and properly fill the expansion tank afterwards. If they didn't, and the low coolant light illuminated on your drive home, I'm sure that would also make you unhappy.
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Jul 16, 2015 21:37
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HotCanadianChick posted:a) The TIS he linked says nothing about a 'vent screw', but it does show the official coolant bleeding procedure from BMW themselves, so yes, you have to bleed it. The only cars ever made that do not require bleeding air from the coolant after a refill are air-cooled engines, which an S62 most obviously is not.  HotCanadianChick posted:b) So they had it parked in their back lot and had to pull it around front for you? Stop crying over nothing. Except that's not what they did at all. I just let it sit for a couple hours in the sun and it took me almost 6 minutes of driving to get the oil back up to that temp. If they have to drive it, for their own procedures or whatever, that's fine. But this was driven right before I picked it up and it was supposed to have been sitting and ready hours before then. Chemmy posted:Nobody wants their car driven during service but 3mi seems pretty reasonable. If they bring it between the parking lot, shop bay, car wash, etc you're going to put a couple miles on the car. And I wouldn't blame you for being pissed about that.
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Jul 16, 2015 21:41
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Jul 16, 2015 21:53
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