Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Scale Modeling: We do it for the inhalants

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Some people use brake cleaner as well, like Castrol Super-Clean.

I think there's a product out there Strip-A-Kit as well, but I don't know how well that works.

# ? Jul 15, 2015 22:47

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# ? May 15, 2024 09:14

Boomer The Cannon: Oct 27, 2011; Gotta see it live!

EFB. ^

Baronjutter posted:

I've had some problem stripping paint off a choochoo. Nothing I use seems to be taking it off. I was using 99% isopropyl and then I tried simple green, soaking over night, neither worked. Would ethanol be work? Or is that basically just alcohol?

Depending on the manufacturer*, Castrol brake cleaner works as well. Are you doing a full strip job, or just removing lettering?

*Don't do this with Kato units.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 00:03

NTRabbit: Aug 15, 2012; i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches

Just don't stick your hands in the brake cleaner, use gloves

# ? Jul 16, 2015 07:23

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Homemade tools!

I made some of those part-holders you can buy to hold stuff when you're gluing/painting. I got some super-cheap alligator clips on eBay, some bamboo skewers at the dollar store, and some construction adhesive and heat-shrink tubing I already had. Placed a dab of glue in the end of the alligator clips, put the skewer in the end and crimped the clip to the skewer, and then heat-shrink over the join after it all dried. Cost me about $6 overall for 20 of them.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 07:31

Molentik: Apr 30, 2013

For stripping paint you can also use Dettol anti-septic fluid (that brown stuff). I've used it on styrene, resin, white metal and that Dragon DS vinyl stuff with good results.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 10:25

lilljonas: May 6, 2007; We got crabs? We got crabs!

I painted up a tiny K�belwagen to go with my Pz. Kpfw. 38(t):

I think I fudged up the weathering powder part, I feel like I always either over-do it or don't do it enough. I really should pick up one of those pro modeling books that were posted before.

The driver got green stuff sleeves, since he came in Afrika Korps uniform, and he's going to be fighting on the Eastern Front in 1941.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 10:39

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

I think it looks good! You could blend those pigments by adding a bit of physical mud to the lower parts of the vehicle, so that the pigments represent older, dried mud splashes.

Sort of nitpicky too, but if you can you may want to swap out the tires. I think those balloon tires were primarily a DAK thing, to help driving over sand. I could be totally wrong though, my war history isn't the strongest.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 11:03

lilljonas: May 6, 2007; We got crabs? We got crabs!

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

I think it looks good! You could blend those pigments by adding a bit of physical mud to the lower parts of the vehicle, so that the pigments represent older, dried mud splashes.

Sort of nitpicky too, but if you can you may want to swap out the tires. I think those balloon tires were primarily a DAK thing, to help driving over sand. I could be totally wrong though, my war history isn't the strongest.

Haha, yeah, I found out the thing about the tires after I started building the kit, while doing some basic research about the vehicle. Unfortunately, the kit I got only comes with baloon tires that were used mostly in northern Africa, but I had no idea about that when I got the kit. Tamiya makes a version with normal tires, but it has no seated driver, just a pilot and a mechanic (?) standing next to it.. So I guess that's what you get when you don't read up on the topic before buying your kits. Since it's built for tabletop wargaming and not a display model I'll just leave it as is, and consider it a lesson learned.

And thanks, it did get better when I painted a bit of dark brown over the pigments to make it look like fresh mud.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 11:17

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

Today I learned that using micro sol before micro set causes the decals to look wrinkly and dumb. :v:

# ? Jul 16, 2015 21:08

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Have they fully dried though? When you use either product, the decal is supposed to wrinkle up and then slowly spread out and conform to the model as they dry.

Normally it shouldn't matter which order you use them in anyway; they're both the same product, one is just stronger than the other.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 21:28

Baronjutter: Dec 31, 2007; "Tiny Trains"

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Have they fully dried though? When you use either product, the decal is supposed to wrinkle up and then slowly spread out and conform to the model as they dry.

Normally it shouldn't matter which order you use them in anyway; they're both the same product, one is just stronger than the other.

Yeah I had this problem and thought I ruined my decals but they ended up ok. But I also rubbed them smooth with a sort of q-tip.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 21:59

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

Good to know! It will probably be dry when I get back home.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 22:18

Baronjutter: Dec 31, 2007; "Tiny Trains"

I've been dealing with a nightmare situation of trying to place buildings on a hill. It's bad, I should have planned ahead to make perfectly level platforms but instead I had to jam some in made out of cardboard, which of course warped slightly, which of course made the building not sit perfectly "planted" which is a big problem with model buildings and makes a scene look bad. I also had to jam in a ramp and a bunch of other bullshit and man this is awful.

I also ballasted some track, another job I hate doing. The watered down iso I sprayed to wet the ballast before applying glue managed to change the colour of my paving so I'll have to re-paint that.

Trains are a nightmare.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 22:29

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

You could always scratch some scaffolding surrounding the building, and a bunch of construction workers and equipment around it, with a sign saying "WARNING: STAY BACK!! UNSTABLE FOUNDATION!!!"

# ? Jul 16, 2015 23:26

Arquinsiel: Jun 1, 2006; "There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

This is an IRL problem. I have seen houses built without once resorting to something so crude as a right angle.

# ? Jul 16, 2015 23:39

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

Well, it was looking pretty decent. I guess micro-sol reacts with future? I thought I waited long enough for everything to dry. I probably should have waited longer.

Oh well. This one was a learning experience at least, so it's not a total loss. I have gap and seam filling down now, and I know what I did wrong with the airbrushing in the beginning (thanks big_g!).
I might give this kit another shot.

# ? Jul 17, 2015 03:15

Cartoon: Jun 20, 2008; poop

Troll Bridgington posted:

Well, it was looking pretty decent. I guess micro-sol reacts with future? I thought I waited long enough for everything to dry. I probably should have waited longer.

Oh well. This one was a learning experience at least, so it's not a total loss. I have gap and seam filling down now, and I know what I did wrong with the airbrushing in the beginning (thanks big_g!).
I might give this kit another shot.

Light snow fall in the midlands?

# ? Jul 17, 2015 03:31

Skunkduster: Jul 15, 2005

Troll Bridgington posted:

Well, it was looking pretty decent. I guess micro-sol reacts with future? I thought I waited long enough for everything to dry. I probably should have waited longer.

Oh well. This one was a learning experience at least, so it's not a total loss. I have gap and seam filling down now, and I know what I did wrong with the airbrushing in the beginning (thanks big_g!).
I might give this kit another shot.

I don't know that this will help, but since you have nothing to lose, might try another coat of future.

# ? Jul 17, 2015 03:39

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

SkunkDuster posted:

I don't know that this will help, but since you have nothing to lose, might try another coat of future.

Worth a shot!

# ? Jul 17, 2015 03:47

Midjack: Dec 24, 2007

Troll Bridgington posted:

Well, it was looking pretty decent. I guess micro-sol reacts with future? I thought I waited long enough for everything to dry. I probably should have waited longer.

Oh well. This one was a learning experience at least, so it's not a total loss. I have gap and seam filling down now, and I know what I did wrong with the airbrushing in the beginning (thanks big_g!).
I might give this kit another shot.

How long did you give the Future before you did the decal solution? I did the same thing earlier this year and that didn't happen, but I had about a week between. Which was probably more than it needed, but I was busy.

# ? Jul 17, 2015 04:04

Unkempt: May 24, 2003; ...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...

Troll Bridgington posted:

Well, it was looking pretty decent. I guess micro-sol reacts with future? I thought I waited long enough for everything to dry. I probably should have waited longer.

Oh well. This one was a learning experience at least, so it's not a total loss. I have gap and seam filling down now, and I know what I did wrong with the airbrushing in the beginning (thanks big_g!).
I might give this kit another shot.

I've had small patches of something like that. If you've got any IPA, try a little of that rubbed on with a q-tip.

(Isopropyl Alcohol, not India Pale Ale)

edit:
Before:

After:

It only happened on a couple of decals and I've no idea why, it's normally fine. It does look like you might be overdoing it with the Sol, though.

Unkempt fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jul 17, 2015

# ? Jul 17, 2015 13:37

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

Unkempt posted:

I've had small patches of something like that. If you've got any IPA, try a little of that rubbed on with a q-tip.

(Isopropyl Alcohol, not India Pale Ale)

edit:
Before:

After:

It only happened on a couple of decals and I've no idea why, it's normally fine. It does look like you might be overdoing it with the Sol, though.

Probably. I got sloppy with the cotton swab on a few occasions. Lesson learned. I'll keep the isopropyl in mind in case I have an issue with my next build. Thanks!

Time to start working on the P-51C!

# ? Jul 17, 2015 20:34

Ensign Expendable: Nov 11, 2008; Lager beer is proof that god loves us; Pillbug

Here's my latest project, a Zvezda 120 mm Soviet mortar crew.

The kit comes with a mortar, trailer (the mortar can be assembled collapsed on the trailer or deployed for firing), a gunner, four figures, two mortar rounds (shame it's not more to display in the crate), two crates, and three rifles. There are also two Adrian helmets in the kit along with more modern Soviet ones, but one had a bad cast and the other shattered when I took it off the sprue. Other than that, no problems with the quality, and the detailing is very good, considering this is an older Zvezda kit.

# ? Jul 18, 2015 02:10

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

big_g posted:

This is nice and neat, good job on the masking.

If I could give some advice? it looks like you are laying down base coats well but they may be a bit heavy?

One of the most beneficial aspects of using an airbrush is that you can use several semi transparent layers that build the colour up as opposed to one coat that just puts down the colour. You could perhaps try thinning the paint a bit more and/or trying a lower pressure? You could also try lightening the colour on each pass a bit and just keep it towards the centre of the panels to give a panel shaded effect. Hope this doesn't come across as patronising but just thought it might help.

Thanks again for this! I followed your advice on my mustang today. I thinned my paint a lot more, turned down the psi, and built up light coats. The preshading actually came through!

Not the best picture, but I'm already much happier with this paint job so far.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 00:15

treetheheavy: Mar 28, 2005

I'm thinking about getting my first airbrush. I mostly build model cars, is this a good choice? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=HXH89XNGLNDR&coliid=I3JZWE0BTUJIQ3

# ? Jul 19, 2015 00:46

Troll Bridgington: Dec 22, 2011; Keeping up foreign relations.

treetheheavy posted:

I'm thinking about getting my first airbrush. I mostly build model cars, is this a good choice? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=HXH89XNGLNDR&coliid=I3JZWE0BTUJIQ3

This is the one I'm using and I love it. I don't know how it compares to other models or brands, but for my money it's a drat good brush.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 00:49

The Locator: Sep 12, 2004; Out here, everything hurts.

treetheheavy posted:

I'm thinking about getting my first airbrush. I mostly build model cars, is this a good choice? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=HXH89XNGLNDR&coliid=I3JZWE0BTUJIQ3

I'm by no means an airbrush expert, but I've got that one and I'm perfectly happy with it. Easy to use, easy to clean, very good even spraying, even on crappy Model Shipways acrylic paint when thinned down.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 02:35

The Locator: Sep 12, 2004; Out here, everything hurts.

Speaking of air brushing. This arrived today:

I'm a terrible shopper (unless you are the retailer, in which case I'm a fantastic shopper!) when there is a huge sale on hobby stuff.

In boat news, I've been making slow progress, and while it's not much to look at, it's the last few touches before I start working on masts and rigging things.

Items completed shown in this photo - Timberheads - 6 of these, all hand filed to shape. Swivel gun supports - 8 of these, initial notches for the rail cut on the mill, then hand shaped to fit hull curvature, bevel at top hand filed. Channels - one on each side. These have 3 pins attaching them to the hull, they were fun to get aligned properly. The main mast supports (called shrouds) will attach to the deadeyes that these platforms will support. I have to fabricate the chain-plates that hold these.

And some beauty shots without the text. I do need to do another pass on all these items with paint, and then seal them.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 03:50

Ensign Expendable: Nov 11, 2008; Lager beer is proof that god loves us; Pillbug

All your pictures are broken.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:09

The Locator: Sep 12, 2004; Out here, everything hurts.

Ensign Expendable posted:

All your pictures are broken.

Strange. They all work for me, whether I view the post, or copy/paste my actual source URL into another browser window, and there is nothing wrong with the BBCode or urls. Can anyone else not see them?

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:13

Yooper: Apr 30, 2012

A pile of paint and some boat pics? Yup. I see it.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:25

Dr. Phildo: Dec 8, 2003; Except the heaven had come so near,
So seemed to choose my door,The distance would not haunt me so; Soiled Meat

I can't

but I'm on an iPad so that may be it. The page tries to load for a while then just gives me little empty squares.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:31

The Locator: Sep 12, 2004; Out here, everything hurts.

Wonder if my server is taking a crap. Although they load fine (and pretty much instantly) for me.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:32

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Works fine for me too, although the excessive nudity in the pics doesn't really fit the aim of the thread.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:35

The Locator: Sep 12, 2004; Out here, everything hurts.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Works fine for me too, although the excessive nudity in the pics doesn't really fit the aim of the thread.

As long as it's in scale!

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:46

Ensign Expendable: Nov 11, 2008; Lager beer is proof that god loves us; Pillbug

The Locator posted:

Wonder if my server is taking a crap. Although they load fine (and pretty much instantly) for me.

Probably because you had them cached. It's working for me now.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 04:54

Skunkduster: Jul 15, 2005

The Locator posted:

I'm a terrible shopper (unless you are the retailer, in which case I'm a fantastic shopper!) when there is a huge sale on hobby stuff.

Who's having the sale on Model Air?

# ? Jul 19, 2015 06:51

The Locator: Sep 12, 2004; Out here, everything hurts.

SkunkDuster posted:

Who's having the sale on Model Air?

Was a few pages ago.

The Locator posted:

Speaking of sales, I just got a postcard from Model Expo. 50% off everything with free shipping over $150 (in the lower 48 US) and back orders are ok.

So what? You say.. They just started carrying the entire line of Vallejo paints. So if you were ever interested in getting that 72 bottle set of Model-air, it's now $150 with free shipping if you add in another item of any price to push the total over 150.

Use offer code FIRE5 and its good through July 31st. Their website won't show the correct price until checkout.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 07:00

Skunkduster: Jul 15, 2005

Thanks! Seems odd the price per bottle is more expensive with the 72 color set. I just bought the individual colors (minus metallics and clearcoats) for $100 after the 50% discount.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 09:24

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# ? May 15, 2024 09:14

Bloody Hedgehog: Dec 12, 2003; 💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

... the price per bottle is cheaper than the set.

With the set though, you get some brushes, and Vallejo charges $60 for the case alone, so that's what you're paying extra for with the sets.

# ? Jul 19, 2015 09:57

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