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Are there any USB wifi receivers that aren't hot garbage? I bought this one and I get a lovely 2mbps with it on my desktop, while putting my Macbook in the exact same location pulls a nice stable 15. Should I just bite the bullet and install a full wifi card thing in this desktop, or are there better USB options?
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Jul 15, 2015 05:22
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flosofl posted:PoE is typically measured in Watts not Volts. 802.3af/802.3at(Type1) is for devices that need 15W and 802.3at(Type2) for 30W devices.
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Jul 15, 2015 07:03
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How much "better" do cable modems get each year? I used a Motorola SB6120 before I switched to Google Fiber last year. In the event I move and switch ISPs after college (in 1-2 years), will I want a newer modem, or should I just stick with the SB6120? I'm just trying to decide if I should try to sell this modem for a few bucks or hold onto it "just in case".
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Jul 15, 2015 09:56
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UserErr0r posted:How much "better" do cable modems get each year? It depends on the service speed you buy and what new stuff comes out between now and then. RIght now 6120/6121 are fine for lower speed packages but higher speed ones need more channel bonding and require more expensive modems. I'd probably sell it since DOCSIS 3.1 is supposed to be on the horizon and 1-2 years could see it rolled out in some places. I'm sure DOCSIS 3.0 will be compatible for a while but I'd rather have $30 or 40 now and buy whatever I need in a year or two if I had the option.
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Jul 15, 2015 10:11
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Rexxed posted:It depends on the service speed you buy and what new stuff comes out between now and then. RIght now 6120/6121 are fine for lower speed packages but higher speed ones need more channel bonding and require more expensive modems. I'd probably sell it since DOCSIS 3.1 is supposed to be on the horizon and 1-2 years could see it rolled out in some places. I'm sure DOCSIS 3.0 will be compatible for a while but I'd rather have $30 or 40 now and buy whatever I need in a year or two if I had the option. Per the documentation, the 6120/6121 should be good up to 150Mbs. I currently use a 6120 I've had for years with a 75Mbs link (and have gotten up to 80Mbps with the "burst" during speed testing).
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Jul 15, 2015 13:48
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What should I look for when buying a modem for a business internet line?
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Jul 15, 2015 14:25
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signalnoise posted:What should I look for when buying a modem for a business internet line? For a business line I would buy/rent something from the ISP. That way if/when something goes wrong you can blame them and make them fix it. For a business situation the $8 per month or whatever rental fee is irrelevant. Being able to scream at them to fix their poo poo is priceless.
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Jul 15, 2015 14:32
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Antillie posted:For a business line I would buy/rent something from the ISP. That way if/when something goes wrong you can blame them and make them fix it. For a business situation the $8 per month or whatever rental fee is irrelevant. Being able to scream at them to fix their poo poo is priceless. It's for a residence, I'm just doing it for unlimited data and higher speeds
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Jul 15, 2015 14:46
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flosofl posted:PoE is typically measured in Watts not Volts. 802.3af/802.3at(Type1) is for devices that need 15W and 802.3at(Type2) for 30W devices. I'm going to guess that at the very least UAP-LR, which would require more power for increased transmission range, falls outside the standards. No 3rd party switch is going to add to the cost and complexity of their PoE delivery for edge cases like this. An injector supplied with the AP works fine. PoE standard are dumb stupid garbage and I hate them. They define the "max" wattage, but not all devices that meet the specs will actually output that. Ask how I know! 
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Jul 15, 2015 14:58
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signalnoise posted:It's for a residence, I'm just doing it for unlimited data and higher speeds In that case check with your ISP to see what modems are allowed on their network and compatible with the speed level you are paying for. The Motorola SB6121/6141/6183 are all quite nice, they just support different speed levels. I am not sure what to recommend for DSL. For a business line they may not even charge you a rental fee for the modem. I would check with your ISP about that. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jul 15, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 16:16
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Inspector_666 posted:PoE standard are dumb stupid garbage and I hate them. They define the "max" wattage, but not all devices that meet the specs will actually output that. Yeah, I've run into that as well and had to take in to account a power allowance for some network designs. As a result, a lot of my IDF switches are "under provisioned" from a port usage standpoint because I have too many PoE devices demanding power. It gets even worse when I'm using 802.3at devices.
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Jul 15, 2015 16:34
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Antillie posted:For a business line they may not even charge you a rental fee for the modem. I would check with your ISP about that. Some ISPs won't allow you to swap out the modem used and some won't discount anything if you use your own modem so I'd check with their support list first before buying anything. future ghost fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Jul 15, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 17:34
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So because I spent tonight dealing with this poo poo... Comcast must have turned something IPv6 related on a week or so ago that caused all the Android devices in my house to slow for a crawl when they initiated a connection. It almost looked like a DNS issue in that after 10-20 seconds the device would response fine. Speed tests were fine once they started. Had to turn IPv6 off on my router and that fixed the issue. Non-android devices on the wireless were also fine. So yeah, if you run into that one...
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Jul 16, 2015 06:21
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Comcast should have IPv6 DNS. If it sucks, or if Comcast deployed IPv6 in a dumb way, that won't help you. If you want to eliminate DNS as a factor, Google and OpenDNS both have well-distributed anycast IPv6 DNS. Best practice suggests you'll want to change the IPv4 to match, and some routers and gateways can't do automatic IPv4 DNS acquisition if you set IPv6 manually (though this is probably a firmware bug, since most proper OSes have little issue with it). IPv6 is still in pretty early days as far as getting out to the public goes (Edit: rather, ISP home clients, and before you ask, you're right it shouldn't be), so you're going to get inertial problems with ISPs' IPv6 deployments occasionally. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 08:31
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Around half of the us is on ipv6 now. Comcast in particular had a huge rollout two years ago. I would try to narrow down your networking issue. Are all of your android devices running gingerbread or older? Could you try going to an ipv6 only site to see if it has the same problem?
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Jul 16, 2015 09:58
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Internet Explorer posted:So because I spent tonight dealing with this poo poo... Comcast must have turned something IPv6 related on a week or so ago that caused all the Android devices in my house to slow for a crawl when they initiated a connection. It almost looked like a DNS issue in that after 10-20 seconds the device would response fine. Speed tests were fine once they started. Had to turn IPv6 off on my router and that fixed the issue. Non-android devices on the wireless were also fine. So yeah, if you run into that one... Do you have a 16x4 channel modem? Apparently there's a firmware issue with modems that use a particular Broadcom chipset where the modem will drop several IPv6 TCP SYN packets from Linux hosts before letting one through, causing a delay in connection setup time of up to multiple whole seconds. Windows hosts don't seem to be affected. There are reports that the Moto/Arris SB6183 and SMC D3CM1604 both exhibit the issue, which points to a firmware bug. According to the thread I linked, there are engineers at Arris and Comcast trying to replicate the problem, and they supposedly have a ticket open with Broadcom as well.
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Jul 16, 2015 13:42
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lampey posted:Around half of the us is on ipv6 now. Comcast in particular had a huge rollout two years ago. I would try to narrow down your networking issue. Are all of your android devices running gingerbread or older? Could you try going to an ipv6 only site to see if it has the same problem? 4 devices, all Nexus with the latest updates. SamDabbers posted:Do you have a 16x4 channel modem? Apparently there's a firmware issue with modems that use a particular Broadcom chipset where the modem will drop several IPv6 TCP SYN packets from Linux hosts before letting one through, causing a delay in connection setup time of up to multiple whole seconds. Windows hosts don't seem to be affected. There are reports that the Moto/Arris SB6183 and SMC D3CM1604 both exhibit the issue, which points to a firmware bug. According to the thread I linked, there are engineers at Arris and Comcast trying to replicate the problem, and they supposedly have a ticket open with Broadcom as well. This sounds like it, thank you. Awesome find. Will do some reading and let you guys know what I run into. [Edit: Hmm... I have a SB 6141 that is 8x4, which I'm not sure is affected. Will keep reading.] [Edit2: "TCP connections over IPv6 handshake just as quickly as over IPv4 on Windows machines, but Linux (including Android) and FreeBSD machines on my network take up to tens of seconds with lots of SYN retransmissions before there's any reply from the remote hosts." This does sound exactly like my issue, although I haven't busted out Wireshark. Will just keep IPv6 disabled for now and keep an eye on that thread. Thanks again.] Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 15:06
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Antillie posted:In that case check with your ISP to see what modems are allowed on their network and compatible with the speed level you are paying for. The Motorola SB6121/6141/6183 are all quite nice, they just support different speed levels. I am not sure what to recommend for DSL. Comcast biz charges $10-12/mo for these horrific SMC gateways. You can put them in bridge mode, but it's kinda crappy and you are forced to use the SMC gateways if you want a static IP. For Comcast Business that doesn't need a static, any of the Xfinity supported devices will work. That page is here: http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/ As far as Comcast is concerned, buying a business plan really seems to mean no data caps, 24x7 tech support, and a much lower SLA on service calls. Also you can get service calls on the weekend.
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Jul 16, 2015 20:50
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ThermoPhysical posted:Looks like there's currently no way to do public password protected FTP on the Netgear R7000. It's pretty much admin-only OR public but no password. You're not able to set up guest accounts. To follow up with this, it looks like a way around this is to use the ReadyCLOUD thing that's built into the R7000. That will let you get access to your USB drive and go from there with the cloud. The storage depends on the drive that you have connected to your router.
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Jul 16, 2015 21:05
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Hey I just want to chime in. A while ago I asked for advice on what router to pick for my boss' friend and you guys recommended an airport xtreem. Pretty great choice it worked out really well. I had a hard time getting the weird utility that you use to set the thing up in windows. Boss opened and unpacked the poo poo so maybe he pitched a disk that came with it or something. I had to get it off apple's site and there was no easy way to find it. Only snag was it kept giving a "Double NAT" error, saying NAT was provided by something upstream like the ISP or whatever, so I turned it off like it recommended, but the error stayed even with it turned off. All the browsing and everything works so I was like gently caress it and just ignored the problem so the dude will see a happy green led on the router now. Anyway, thanks.
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Jul 16, 2015 22:51
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What would cause an internet connection to periodically drop for exactly 10 seconds, every time? Happens much more frequently when other people are using the connection, but even still happens occasionally when they aren't. At its worst it can happen several times a minute. The connection drop happens on both wired and wireless devices. I'm on Verizon FIOS.
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Jul 17, 2015 03:31
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Rakthar posted:As far as Comcast is concerned, buying a business plan really seems to mean no data caps, 24x7 tech support, and a much lower SLA on service calls. Also you can get service calls on the weekend.
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Jul 17, 2015 08:16
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ThermoPhysical posted:To follow up with this, it looks like a way around this is to use the ReadyCLOUD thing that's built into the R7000. That will let you get access to your USB drive and go from there with the cloud. The storage depends on the drive that you have connected to your router. I feel I should point out that FTP sends all of the login info as clear text over the network. So setting a password on an FTP server will only keep out the most casual of attackers. There are better, more modern protocols, such as SCP that do not have this issue.
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Jul 17, 2015 16:08
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Antillie posted:I feel I should point out that FTP sends all of the login info as clear text over the network. So setting a password on an FTP server will only keep out the most casual of attackers. There are better, more modern protocols, such as SCP that do not have this issue. The problem is there's no actual login info. It's just the admin username/custom password of the router itself. The router only supports personal FTP or global (no password required). I feel the ASUS AC68U is much more secure than the R7000 in that area as it allows for guest access on the FTP and you can change the username of the router from admin to something else.
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Jul 17, 2015 16:22
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abraham linksys posted:Are there any USB wifi receivers that aren't hot garbage? I bought this one and I get a lovely 2mbps with it on my desktop, while putting my Macbook in the exact same location pulls a nice stable 15. Should I just bite the bullet and install a full wifi card thing in this desktop, or are there better USB options? I've got a Netgear N300 currently for my desktop, and the trick seems to be getting one with an extender cable to get it away from the PC. Mine has a little cradle/dock thing to sit it vertically up on top of the desk. I can't speak to the 5ghz performance as I'm pretty far from the router, but the 2.4ghz is solid.
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Jul 17, 2015 17:49
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Hi, looking for some advice on improving my home network. Here's my current floorplan:  At the moment I'm able to use netflix adequately over wifi down in the family room. It's not great though. Steam home streaming from the family room over wifi with the host PC connected directly to the router in the office is impossible. This is using the wifi capabilities on the sucky Telus ActionTec V2000H (2.4Ghz/802.11n). I set up a Asus rt-n10 as an AP and turned off the wifi on the ActionTec with little improvement. Even moving the Asus out onto the loft area made very little difference to Netflix and Steam home streaming was still impossible. The way I see it I have two options. 1. Run ethernet down to the family room. Hard work in an old house. 2. Explore the option of a new router/AP that I can run from the office/loft that would allow me to use Steam home streaming from down in the family room. Is it reasonable to expect that a 5Ghz/802.11ac device like the Ubiquiti UAP-Pro, the ASUS RT-AC68U or the TP-LINK Archer C9 or something else would allow me to use Steam home streaming with this configuration? Thanks for the help. Rhaegar fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 22:48
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johnny park posted:What would cause an internet connection to periodically drop for exactly 10 seconds, every time? Happens much more frequently when other people are using the connection, but even still happens occasionally when they aren't. At its worst it can happen several times a minute. The connection drop happens on both wired and wireless devices. I'm on Verizon FIOS. Could you do a traceroute to a know ip like 8.8.8.8 and then start a ping -t to your router, and another one to the next ip after your router? Then when it goes out next time you can see if it is a problem with your connection to the router or something else. If both are giving replies while your internet is dropped it could be a dns issue.
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Jul 17, 2015 23:30
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ThermoPhysical posted:Looks like there's currently no way to do public password protected FTP on the Netgear R7000. It's pretty much admin-only OR public but no password. You're not able to set up guest accounts.
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Jul 18, 2015 03:58
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cisco privilege posted:Isn't that just a local ftp server anyways for USB-attached storage? If you're using Windows you could set up a sftp server like Winsshd on a custom port for more security, though you'd need an always-on PC. Yeah, a local FTP server for USB. I would've done that but it would've been a lot of work for sending files to just one person. It's just frustrating that another router has it but Netgear thought it'd be cool to make it either personal with your login information or open to the world with no password.
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Jul 18, 2015 05:47
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-im using the cable modem that charter provided and a d-link dir-655 router that im quite happy with the speed and features of. -I use a wired connection for my gaming pc and consoles. I use the wireless with a cellphone and a laptop that I like to watch movies over the network stored on the pc, and I watch lots of twitch.tv -The problem I am having is when I move too far from the router and I start getting hitching while watching twitch unless I lower the quality. The same hitching does not occur on the wired connection pc or when I use the laptop close to the router. The signal needs to reach my patio area that is about 40ft away and through 2 walls diagrammed below  The patio area does have outlets and is protected from the outdoors. I leave both doors wide open since it seems to improve the signal Is this a situation that a range extender/repeater would be useful?
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Jul 19, 2015 13:06
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OK so what should I be getting to provide solid wifi to a house this size? Not included in this picture is the upper level of the house. It's a split level.  I was thinking just getting one of the basic Unifi APs and sticking it in the ceiling of the Lab room.
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Jul 19, 2015 14:11
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Yeah, I'm just wondering the the consensus is on what the best ADSL modem is on the market because I really need to get some speed.
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Jul 19, 2015 15:50
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Actiontec GT701D for anything up to but not including VDSL service/speeds. Bridge them and hang a good router off it and it'll be hands off for years and years (I've had mine for 4 years and I've sold dozens with not failures yet).
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Jul 19, 2015 20:32
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Okay, so roommates and I just moved into a new apartment that does not have Ethernet ports and are just renting a router from TWC at the moment. I told them that the router will be poo poo and not reliable, which they've realized, so now we're trying to sort out a better setup without dropping too much cash. We do have coax ports in each of the rooms and was thinking of getting some coax-to-ethernet adapters, using wired connections for the heavy bandwidth stuff (Netflix, gaming, etc) and keep the wireless connection for light use stuff, printing, etc. Is this a Not Dumb idea and are there any good suggestions for manufacturer and specific types of adapters? I looked around a bit on Amazon, but there seems to be a ton of specifications and I am not familiar enough to just try picking them on my own. We checked some of them and are good with a price of around $50 for each.
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Jul 19, 2015 20:33
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Rhaegar posted:Hi, looking for some advice on improving my home network. Do you have coax connections in each of the rooms? If so then you might want to consider getting a pair of Moca adapters and connecting your family room using that. A new AC router will probably help but it's hard to know for sure since every house is different and there's no guarantee that it will be enough for steam streaming. Protip - Tivo.com has the best prices around on MOCA adapters. ($50 for one $90 for a pair)
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Jul 20, 2015 22:20
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Krailor posted:Do you have coax connections in each of the rooms? If so then you might want to consider getting a pair of Moca adapters and connecting your family room using that. If you have a bunch of coax connections and aren't using them all, make sure you slap some 75 Ohm terminators on the unused ones. You can usually get a bag of 10 for around $5 to $10 in the A/V section of Home Depot or Lowes.
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Jul 20, 2015 23:38
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Holy crap, I've never even heard of that solution before. Thanks! I'll look into it. I have coax in both the office and the family room. Will MoCA work in the office if I split the coax, one to the actiontec router/modem and the other to the MoCA adapter and then run the ethernet from the router/modem back into the MoCA? In the family room it would be even easier. Split the coax, run one to the set top box (Telus Optik TV) and then the other to the MoCA adapter. P.S. Although I did just buy a Netgear Nighthawk R7000 (AC1900) which I'll probably keep just because it will improve the wifi in my house significantly (even if it's not quite good enough for Steam home streaming). Rhaegar fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 00:36
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The moca adapters actually have a built in splitter.
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Jul 21, 2015 13:24
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My router is giving me some weird stuff. I have the Asus AC87U; trying to do the remote FTP stuff with the ASUS dynamic DNS. As of today it's the latest Merlin firmware. I even went as far and changed to a new subdomain name (username), and it's still not resolving to my IP in CuteFTP or Filezilla. I put in the name, and when I hit connect it tries to resolve 185.53.177.6 instead of my ISP IP. I went to the tool Asus has to do a reverse IP from their DDNS, and it gives me my correct IP. Is there something I'm missing in that it should try to resolve my IP normally, without having to go reverse lookup every time it changes? Additionally, I'm still trying to use the AICloud --> SmartSync using FTP. I thought they had fixed it since it didn't work in the past, and it was removed for a few versions in both the ASUS stock firmware, and in Merlin's as well. Before when I had all the info put in, I'd hit apply and just get a popup that was blank. Then nothing would be in the log file about errors or success. Now I can successfully add a FTP server to sync to, but now it'll just say "Finished"; and when I go to the log it's still blank. Checking the folder I selected it's also blank, so it's still not doing anything. It's just doing more nothing than before.
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Jul 21, 2015 19:03
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My younger sister just got an apartment and bought herself an internet package from Cox (they promise "up to" 15mps, and I don't hesitate to point out that, technically, is a promise that would actually conform to having no connectivity whatsoever, but anyway) and they wanna sell her a combined modem/dual-band router for $150. They don't actually tell you which one, but I imagine it would be something off of this page. I don't know if Cox's standard-issue devices are lovely or not, can someone give me the skinny? Because I'm gonna leave work in about an hour and I can drop by the Microcenter to spend that $150 on alternatives, so if someone can ring in with a recommendation before then, I'd really appreciate it.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:23
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