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So i have a question for jamal or bull. I am working on a ej255 turbo and doing a timing belt. every time i set timing and pull the tensioner pin roll it over get the crank back to tdc, check the marks and the drivers side cams are a like a a half tooth to a tooth retarded, if i hold the crank and turn the intake cam both of them set to the marks and every thing looks set. So i dug into this and it occurs when i pull the tensioner pin and rotate the tensioner it eats some slack and the cam doesn't move. I have set it like 3 times now all with the same results, and i haven't had this occur before on a suby t belt replacement. A) is the tensioner bad from the box? B) Is it the wrong part possibly? i would assume all ej255 turbos have the same tensioner C) The unlikely scenario, is this going to be ok? It seems like its just the tensioner messing with timing, maybe avcs adjusts this? D) If its not do i have to ignore the belt marks and just set the drivers intake cam and exhaust a tooth advanced and try to get it to pull back into time, after tension applied?
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Jul 19, 2015 06:12
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To update my previous post, a new timing kit fixed me right up. No more noises. The old tensioner had the telltale damage on the back lip caused by hitting the case.
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Jul 19, 2015 22:44
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Anyone drive a new Forester XT? How's it holding up? My wife and I like to travel a lot (via car) with our daughter and have encountered some space limitations with my '13 WRX (hatchback) so we've been using a roof rack/cargo basket. However, we're thinking about having another kid, so....... I'd still like to have some fun, so that's why I'm thinking turbocharged Forester. Am I crazy? Is this a terrible idea? Right now the WRX is my commuter car (~50mi each day, all city), so I'd actually be saving some money going with the Forester, and hatchbacks are in demand for trade-in right now. Help me, goons.
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Jul 20, 2015 02:50
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BoyBlunder posted:Anyone drive a new Forester XT? How's it holding up? My daughter in law to be has one. She likes it, and it goes fast.
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Jul 20, 2015 02:57
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I dunno if they are still the exact same engine etc but older turbo foresters feel way bigger and slower than they actually are, and my wrx feels a lot more fun to drive, even when driving normally. The new foresters are way bigger than the old ones so I can see that feeling being worse.
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Jul 20, 2015 03:16
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Have fun with the cvt in the Forester. 
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Jul 20, 2015 03:28
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BoyBlunder posted:Anyone drive a new Forester XT? How's it holding up? Friend traded his 2.5i in for a Fat gen FXT and they love it. Hauls all the baby poo poo around fine and has a warranty. Test drive one and decide for yourself.
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Jul 20, 2015 03:29
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I dunno if they are still the exact same engine etc but older turbo foresters feel way bigger and slower than they actually are, and my wrx feels a lot more fun to drive, even when driving normally. The new foresters are way bigger than the old ones so I can see that feeling being worse. The older Forester XTs have a dumb little boost pill that keeps the boost curve and therefore torque characteristics closer to a V6 than that of a turbo car. Once you swap it out for the WRX setup they're ridiculous straight-line warriors, similar to the earliest 90s WRXes with a 4.44. Then all you have to deal with is the monumentally slow FXT steering (drop in an 04 STI rack, if you can find one) and tennis-mom suspension (soccer moms demand 0.7G mid-corner).
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Jul 20, 2015 04:23
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So I had the chance to hit up some trails yesterday in my STI and Im definitely impressed. Idk if its the new bumper shape or what but it took several good hits (evidenced by the mud it scooped up and even popped out a fog light bezel) and its just fine. Those hits definitely would have at least cracked my '13s bumper.
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Jul 20, 2015 11:26
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BoyBlunder posted:Anyone drive a new Forester XT? How's it holding up? My brother in law has one, he has that eyesight thing with the lane departure and auto braking, which is good because he's a bad driver.
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Jul 20, 2015 11:40
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Any reason this wouldn't fit on a 98 Outback 5MT? It lists the 98 2.5RS but only back to the 2000 2.5 Legacy and I just wanted to be sure. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/COBB-Tuning-21132X-Bushing-Pack
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Jul 20, 2015 21:51
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I've run into an issue with my 2013 Impreza (automatic, if it makes a difference). Back in April (around 34-35K miles), the low oil light would come on in the middle of my commute to work (but not on my commute back). I'ld check the oil after it happened, but it never showed as being low. After a few days, I took it into the dealership, and they said the low engine oil switch was faulty, and replaced it. Now, something very similar is happening. Since yesterday afternoon (around 39k miles), the low oil light is coming on after ~2 minutes every time I drive. But again, when I check the oil, it's not low. It is however towards the lowish end of the acceptable range. (Is it possible that the amount is ok when stationary, but as the engine starts running, and oil is being pumped out of the reservoir and the level there gets lowered, the low-level switch gets triggered?) I dropped it off at the dealership today after work for them to look at tomorrow. Googling, I see there's a common issue with over excessive oil consumption in 2013 Imprezas. Could this be related to that? I'm not sure, because I went 4k miles in between problems, whereas most complaints I see talk about having problems every 1-1.5k miles. Also, when I check the oil level, it's not actually low, even though the warning light its on. Depending on what the dealership says, would it be prudent to ask for an oil consumption test and/or the fix for the excessive consumption issue (a short block replacement)?
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Jul 21, 2015 00:17
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Sudo Echo posted:Any reason this wouldn't fit on a 98 Outback 5MT? It lists the 98 2.5RS but only back to the 2000 2.5 Legacy and I just wanted to be sure. Should be fine. I used this kartboy kit which is basically the same thing,. It will raise your shifter up about an inch and a half or so, though.
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Jul 21, 2015 01:55
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So is there a good reason to not get a $100 used good condition invidia catless down pipe and weld in a high flow cat? Seems much cheaper than I've found I could get a used catted downpipe for.
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Jul 21, 2015 13:55
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BoyBlunder posted:Anyone drive a new Forester XT? How's it holding up? I've had mine for just under a year now, and this past weekend I lowered it. BEHOLD  I love it. Things to know: 1). The CVT (while nowhere near as good as a stick shift) is nowhere near the penalty box you might think, provided 2). you actually bother to use the SI-Drive modes - which adjust throttle mapping & rev-holding substantially 3). The suspension I used (RS-R Down) is nigh-on indistinguishable for ride quality from stock, but it rolls *way* less in corners now. Which is good - because the stock ride quality in the car is fantastic. It is properly fast and hilariously practical. I went to the hardware store to buy a bathtub (renovating our bathroom) and it fit in the back - and on the way home, a chump in an Acura tried to cut me out of a merging lane. So I spanked him in a soccer mum car with a bathtub in the back. 
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Jul 21, 2015 16:18
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sarcastx posted:It is properly fast and hilariously practical. I went to the hardware store to buy a bathtub (renovating our bathroom) and it fit in the back - and on the way home, a chump in an Acura tried to cut me out of a merging lane. So I spanked him in a soccer mum car with a bathtub in the back.
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Jul 21, 2015 16:23
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Everyone in a honda drives like that though, especially the 16 year old lads in their $400 1.6 non vtec civics with their terrified mothers in the passenger seat.
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Jul 21, 2015 16:35
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My '07 STI has a low-beam out, so I assume I need new bulbs. They appear to be "HID-D2S," but searching for anything related to HIDs seems to lead to a torrent of knockoffs and insanity. I take it paying $10 for a knockoff pair from Amazon is a bad idea? Any recommended brands/suppliers?
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Jul 21, 2015 19:49
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Rockauto has them, saint gerald.
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Jul 21, 2015 21:14
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Alternatively, the retrofit source also carries bulbs do you can get fancier than oem bulbs if you want. Do not go for the cheap bulbs, they are terrible. Morimoto is a good budget bulb, Philips / Osram is what you'd want to get.
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Jul 21, 2015 21:25
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sarcastx posted:I've had mine for just under a year now, and this past weekend I lowered it. BEHOLD Thanks, this is what I wanted to hear. The CVT does scare me a bit, and I'm still trying to find a '16 XT Premium in the area to drive so I'm trying to reserve my judgement, but coming from a WRX it's tough.
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Jul 22, 2015 01:18
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BoyBlunder posted:Thanks, this is what I wanted to hear. The CVT does scare me a bit, and I'm still trying to find a '16 XT Premium in the area to drive so I'm trying to reserve my judgement, but coming from a WRX it's tough. Try and test drive a used one; you really need the opportunity to thrash it in S# to understand what a difference it makes - if you put it in manual mode it will hold the fake "gear" right up to redline, and the change into the next one has a satisfying kick in the seat like a decent automatic would - nary a hint of any CVT "rubberiness". But you're not even supposed to go into S# in the first 1,000 miles so the dealerships tend to frown on it. In Intelligent it pulls nicely - and there's more power lower down than you'd be used to coming from an EJ - but the CVT stepless acceleration will throw you off. Also, if you drive a lot, the car owns for long distances. I drove from Toronto to Milwaukee in one day last month, was plenty comfortable and didn't have a sore back or anything afterwards. e: It won't let you go into S# until the engine temp reaches ~120 or so - if you drive one and it doesn't go there right away give it a few minutes to warm up. sarcastx fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 02:39
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How long should it take to replace all the bushings in the rear suspension of a second gen outback? My local independent shop wants $850 to replace them with OEM bushings and do an alignment. This seems steep to me, even with their $120/hour rate.
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Jul 22, 2015 04:30
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Oem bushing are a bitch. When I lamented having to press them in when I did my rear wheel bearings, the irc guys said next time use 2 piece aftermarket.
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Jul 22, 2015 13:06
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Oh I know; only reason I'm having a shop do them is that I don't have a press to get the old ones out. And the shop will only install parts they've supplied/purchased, so if I wanted to go aftermarket I wouldn't be able to get the jamal discount on them.
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Jul 22, 2015 14:20
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door Door door posted:Oh I know; only reason I'm having a shop do them is that I don't have a press to get the old ones out. And the shop will only install parts they've supplied/purchased, so if I wanted to go aftermarket I wouldn't be able to get the jamal discount on them. do you have a propane torch, a hacksaw, and a bench vice? I did bushings EASILY at adiabatics with only an air hammer and vice. You don't need a press tool if you get aftermarket stuff and DIY it. If you have better details of which bushings you are tackling where, I can tell you what you need and which bushings to use in order to do it on a saturday afternoon.
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Jul 22, 2015 14:24
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Dumb question I need to pull off my valve cover, and there is a line (oil?) that has a weird clamp on. How the hell do I get it off? And if I do, any reason I can't replace it with something a little less of a pain in the dick to work with? Pic for reference 
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Jul 22, 2015 15:59
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So guess who is still working on the timing for that ej255 turbo........ I could really use any help from the pros , its same as before set time static, pull tensioner pin, turn motor over now its not in time, seems like its cause the tensioner causes the crank to move but not the cams when it first engages during first turn. 5 loving hours on timing in this piece of poo poo.
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Jul 22, 2015 16:12
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You realize that the timing marks will not line up with every full revolution of the crank right? You line them up when you install the belt and pull the tensionor pin to set the tension. At that point everything will be lined up. Once you start cranking the engine, it will take several hundred revolutions of the engine for the timing marks to line up again due to the spacing of the marks and the number of teeth on each cam. The marks are only there to set statically at installation. They are useless once the engine starts turning.
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Jul 22, 2015 16:25
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bull3964 posted:You realize that the timing marks will not line up with every full revolution of the crank right? i'm talking about the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys, those should always line up after 720 right? The problem is they don't, and i want to say the tensioner is somehow hosed from the box but they are expensive and i don't want to have this guy buy one and then me go "Whoops wasnt the tensioner , im just an idiot"
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Jul 22, 2015 16:34
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:i'm talking about the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys, those should always line up after 720 right? Yes, the cam and the crank should line back up. If things aren't lining back up again, I wouldn't suspect the tensioner. It would only cause things to not line up again by allowing slippage to occur. If you are hand cranking the engine and not noticing teeth slip (which should be pretty obvious) then it's not an issue with the tensioner. I would double check that you have the right belt. If the belt is the incorrect length and has too many (or two few) teeth it will cause things to come out of alignment.
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Jul 22, 2015 16:58
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Slow is Fast posted:do you have a propane torch, a hacksaw, and a bench vice? Don't have space to store the stuff (don't even have a floor jack or stands) or anywhere to mount the vise, sadly. Are there any aftermarket bushings that are close in price to OEM that would be worth having the shop order and install? Car definitely pulls to the right so I don't mind having to pay for the alignment at the same time.
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Jul 22, 2015 17:22
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Trailing arms energy suspension poly is cheap, turn in concepts more spendy. Poly will be fine for those you wont notice NVH issues and the energy suspension kit is cheap. Lateral links oem or the turn in concepts kit. if you are in new england you will have to do the lateral link bushings and the big rear end bolts will probably have to be cut out of the knuckles. If the toe bolts are frozen, just have them replace those and the bushing. Two bolts two bushings. Don't gently caress with the rest. Are those the actual problem?
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Jul 22, 2015 17:25
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:i'm talking about the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys, those should always line up after 720 right? The problem is they don't, and i want to say the tensioner is somehow hosed from the box but they are expensive and i don't want to have this guy buy one and then me go "Whoops wasnt the tensioner , im just an idiot" I ran into a similar problem when I did the T belt on my cousin's Camry. It was caused by not wrapping the pulleys in the correct order. I was starting at the crank pulley and working my way around to the cam pulleys and that was creating slack in the wrong spot on the belt, so even when I let the tensioner do its thing there was still some looseness that allowed the pulleys to drift a few teeth out of sync. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 17:31
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bull3964 posted:Yes, the cam and the crank should line back up. I will double check the belt teeth (or part number if its on the belt), my only concern that points towards the tensioner is that when turning the crank with the pin disengaged the tensioner visibly moves down quite a bit which causes this "mis timing/slipping" between the cams and crank. Quick check on parts.subaru.com shows two different belts so I guess I will have him check a part number with the vin and compare to what he got. Terrible Robot posted:I ran into a similar problem when I did the T belt on my cousin's Camry. It was caused by not wrapping the pulleys in the correct order. I was starting at the crank pulley and working my way around to the cam pulleys and that was creating slack in the wrong spot on the belt, so even when I let the tensioner do its thing there was still some looseness that allowed the pulleys to drift a few teeth out of sync. Ya All the videos I have seen go counter clockwise as far as belt install, so I think on saturday I will try it counter clockwise.
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Jul 22, 2015 17:38
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Slow is Fast posted:Trailing arms energy suspension poly is cheap, turn in concepts more spendy. Poly will be fine for those you wont notice NVH issues and the energy suspension kit is cheap. Thanks. I'll crawl under the car tonight to check the toe bolts, but I'm down south and the car originally came from CA so they shouldn't be seized. I definitely get a clunk when decelerating in lower gears, which everything I've read tells me is the trailing arm bushings, so I'll try to get a look at them too.
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Jul 22, 2015 19:39
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door Door door posted:Thanks. I'll crawl under the car tonight to check the toe bolts, but I'm down south and the car originally came from CA so they shouldn't be seized. I definitely get a clunk when decelerating in lower gears, which everything I've read tells me is the trailing arm bushings, so I'll try to get a look at them too. Trailing arm bushings and diff bushings. Inspect both. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5LzmKymI3M Its usually the front and the rears are fine. A good shop should be able to pop the old ones off and press in two front trailing arm bushings in an hour or two. The energy suspension kit is cheap and split type for the forward trailing arm bushngs. The diff can also clunk along with the forward T bar if the plates have been bent against the unibody after being jacked on.
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Jul 22, 2015 19:48
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You said it's a 2nd gen, so 00-04? All the suspension links are different from what SIF is talking about. There's no turn in concepts kit for it and a lot more links and bushings that need to be replaced, plus they are a little harder to press in and out. I'm not sure there are split bushings available either. Your suspension has a lower control arm with two bushings, an upper control arm with two bushings, a toe link with one bushing and a ball joint on the other end, and then the knuckle and trailing arm are one piece with a big bushing in the front. There is an adjustable link set that replaces the LCA and toe link.
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Jul 22, 2015 19:55
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jamal posted:You said it's a 2nd gen, so 00-04? Oh jesus gently caress yeah if he's talking about an 00-04 all of that poo poo is a train wreck. Just go read my thread where I went through all that poo poo. It gets confusing because a 2nd gen outback is just a third gen legacy and a 1st gen outback is just a 2nd gen legacy and year was never specified here. All of that suspension poo poo changed for the worse after 00.
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Jul 22, 2015 20:40
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jamal posted:You said it's a 2nd gen, so 00-04? Slow is Fast posted:Oh jesus gently caress yeah if he's talking about an 00-04 all of that poo poo is a train wreck. Just go read my thread where I went through all that poo poo. Yeah it's an 03, so it's 3rd gen legacy. After reading your thread gently caress that poo poo, I guess I'll just pay out for the shop to do it. Might get quotes from a couple other local ones, but mine does good work and warranties it, so I'll probably still go with them.
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Jul 22, 2015 21:18
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